trunk lid not open with keyless go
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GLK 250 2013
trunk lid not open with keyless go
hi all,
I face strange situation trunk lid with keyless go: just after I lock the car with button keyfob or touch door handle, i could open trunk with the button on it (key in my pocket). but if I go around or even standing there for a while, I could not not open the trunk by button on it. i have to open with button on the fob. other door dont have any issue
i dont know why
I face strange situation trunk lid with keyless go: just after I lock the car with button keyfob or touch door handle, i could open trunk with the button on it (key in my pocket). but if I go around or even standing there for a while, I could not not open the trunk by button on it. i have to open with button on the fob. other door dont have any issue
i dont know why
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hi all,
I face strange situation trunk lid with keyless go: just after I lock the car with button keyfob or touch door handle, i could open trunk with the button on it (key in my pocket). but if I go around or even standing there for a while, I could not not open the trunk by button on it. i have to open with button on the fob. other door dont have any issue
i dont know why
I face strange situation trunk lid with keyless go: just after I lock the car with button keyfob or touch door handle, i could open trunk with the button on it (key in my pocket). but if I go around or even standing there for a while, I could not not open the trunk by button on it. i have to open with button on the fob. other door dont have any issue
i dont know why
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I keep my key in my left pants pocket. Often times when I pull the rear hatch handle the hatch does not open. This is with the right side of my body facing the rear hatch. If I turn 180 degrees so my left side is facing the rear hatch it opens when I pull the release handle. This is with a good battery. It indicates the key signal is quite weak. Turning the left side of my body toward the hatch does not block much of the signal and it opens. That is my experience. Your situation/"problem" may be different.
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2013 glk 350
Maybe key fob defective or transmitter in back infront of tire , under carpet and plastic cover has a loose antenna or Is defective , or , loose connection, test auxiliary battery in same rear location with a volt meter . It needs to be above 12v . It could be many things . Is second key fob the same ? It works when you turn. Something is giving a weak signal.
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Maybe key fob defective or transmitter in back infront of tire , under carpet and plastic cover has a loose antenna or Is defective , or , loose connection, test auxiliary battery in same rear location with a volt meter . It needs to be above 12v . It could be many things . Is second key fob the same ? It works when you turn. Something is giving a weak signal.
I don't pay too much attention to it. I just remember, oh yeah, I should turn the other way. I use name brand/quality batteries in the key fobs. I have three key fobs and I "rotate" them every four months. Same situation with all of them. The Aux. battery is not involved. A few years ago I removed it from the car for months. Of course I got the annoying Aux. battery warning and the Stop/Start did not work (a blessing). Other than that, it had no effect on anything else.
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Believe it or not, there are "fake" batteries, even the coin batteries like the CR2032. In addition to the MB key fob batteries (CRxxxx) , we use the CRxxxx batteries for our Samsung SmartTags (keyring tracking device - I should say, "I do", cause my wife bought them cause I always misplace my keys). We only use name brand bought at a reputable store, not off the 'Net.
Take note: there are also fake NGK plugs out there
We had the Aux battery warning on the dash too - bought a new one to quiet the dash ... we do NOT use Stop Start
Last edited by calder-cay; Dec 12, 2024 at 07:08 PM.
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2013 glk 350
Yes I got new batteries , maybe Amazon, my old batteries maybe 4 years old tested better! I just had a bunch aaa HD batteries fail in two months on remote sensors . On name brand never a failure for 2 years , but I replace every years because they control a heating system , a whole box of junk . Amazon no better. Amazon - hd for tv remotes and flashlights. Duracell . Exergiser, Panasonic for long lasting power.
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GLK 250 2013
I keep my key in my left pants pocket. Often times when I pull the rear hatch handle the hatch does not open. This is with the right side of my body facing the rear hatch. If I turn 180 degrees so my left side is facing the rear hatch it opens when I pull the release handle. This is with a good battery. It indicates the key signal is quite weak. Turning the left side of my body toward the hatch does not block much of the signal and it opens. That is my experience. Your situation/"problem" may be different.
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From: South Texas
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Thread Starter
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GLK 250 2013
Yes I got new batteries , maybe Amazon, my old batteries maybe 4 years old tested better! I just had a bunch aaa HD batteries fail in two months on remote sensors . On name brand never a failure for 2 years , but I replace every years because they control a heating system , a whole box of junk . Amazon no better. Amazon - hd for tv remotes and flashlights. Duracell . Exergiser, Panasonic for long lasting power.
Responding to @Chau Nguyen ...
Believe it or not, there are "fake" batteries, even the coin batteries like the CR2032. In addition to the MB key fob batteries (CRxxxx) , we use the CRxxxx batteries for our Samsung SmartTags (keyring tracking device - I should say, "I do", cause my wife bought them cause I always misplace my keys). We only use name brand bought at a reputable store, not off the 'Net.
Take note: there are also fake NGK plugs out there
We had the Aux battery warning on the dash too - bought a new one to quiet the dash ... we do NOT use Stop Start
Believe it or not, there are "fake" batteries, even the coin batteries like the CR2032. In addition to the MB key fob batteries (CRxxxx) , we use the CRxxxx batteries for our Samsung SmartTags (keyring tracking device - I should say, "I do", cause my wife bought them cause I always misplace my keys). We only use name brand bought at a reputable store, not off the 'Net.
Take note: there are also fake NGK plugs out there
We had the Aux battery warning on the dash too - bought a new one to quiet the dash ... we do NOT use Stop Start
Maybe key fob defective or transmitter in back infront of tire , under carpet and plastic cover has a loose antenna or Is defective , or , loose connection, test auxiliary battery in same rear location with a volt meter . It needs to be above 12v . It could be many things . Is second key fob the same ? It works when you turn. Something is giving a weak signal.
Whenever i just lock the car then i could immediately open the trunk with button in the hatch. So we could see batteries and signal have no issue
after the light inside right at trunk door turned off then it could not open by the button hatch. But could be opened with button on keyfob.
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for some suggestions related to battery or signal attena, i test as below:
Whenever i just lock the car then i could immediately open the trunk with button in the hatch. So we could see batteries and signal have no issue
after the light inside right at trunk door turned off then it could not open by the button hatch. But could be opened with button on keyfob.
Whenever i just lock the car then i could immediately open the trunk with button in the hatch. So we could see batteries and signal have no issue
after the light inside right at trunk door turned off then it could not open by the button hatch. But could be opened with button on keyfob.
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Video of the issue
https://youtube.com/shorts/rtsAeMkiK...1TL066v0L2Fmj_
https://youtube.com/shorts/rtsAeMkiK...1TL066v0L2Fmj_
CHÀO Chau
just some points and observations...
at the end of the video you pull on the rear hatch handle/switch many times and quickly. it is not a good test. the first pull signals the hatch to open. the second pull signals the hatch to stop moving. the third pull signals the hatch to open and this continues as you rapidly pull the switch.
as you may know, when you have the hatch open and push the red Close and Lock button it will only close (and then lock) if the key is detected. if the hatch is open it can be closed with the red Close button with no key or no key detected. of course once closed in will not lock when using this button.
if the hatch is fully open and you stand on a chair so you can reach hatch handle you can pull on the hatch handle and you should hear the click sound of a solenoid each time. it does not matter if the key is detected or not and the hatch will never move. if you do not hear a strong click each time then something may be wrong with the handle switch contacts or solenoid (could be a motor instead of a solenoid - not sure).
i assume this functionality is the same for all markets where it was sold. was your GLK built in Ho Chi Minh City?
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GLK 250 2013
CHÀO Chau
just some points and observations...
at the end of the video you pull on the rear hatch handle/switch many times and quickly. it is not a good test. the first pull signals the hatch to open. the second pull signals the hatch to stop moving. the third pull signals the hatch to open and this continues as you rapidly pull the switch.
as you may know, when you have the hatch open and push the red Close and Lock button it will only close (and then lock) if the key is detected. if the hatch is open it can be closed with the red Close button with no key or no key detected. of course once closed in will not lock when using this button.
if the hatch is fully open and you stand on a chair so you can reach hatch handle you can pull on the hatch handle and you should hear the click sound of a solenoid each time. it does not matter if the key is detected or not and the hatch will never move. if you do not hear a strong click each time then something may be wrong with the handle switch contacts or solenoid (could be a motor instead of a solenoid - not sure).
i assume this functionality is the same for all markets where it was sold. was your GLK built in Ho Chi Minh City?
just some points and observations...
at the end of the video you pull on the rear hatch handle/switch many times and quickly. it is not a good test. the first pull signals the hatch to open. the second pull signals the hatch to stop moving. the third pull signals the hatch to open and this continues as you rapidly pull the switch.
as you may know, when you have the hatch open and push the red Close and Lock button it will only close (and then lock) if the key is detected. if the hatch is open it can be closed with the red Close button with no key or no key detected. of course once closed in will not lock when using this button.
if the hatch is fully open and you stand on a chair so you can reach hatch handle you can pull on the hatch handle and you should hear the click sound of a solenoid each time. it does not matter if the key is detected or not and the hatch will never move. if you do not hear a strong click each time then something may be wrong with the handle switch contacts or solenoid (could be a motor instead of a solenoid - not sure).
i assume this functionality is the same for all markets where it was sold. was your GLK built in Ho Chi Minh City?
regarding with the concern related to the solenoid of the hatch, i also think about it. But if you again look at the video, whenever i click the close button then it close and if the light is still on then i could easily click the hatch to open the trunk. I only could not open the trunk with the hatch when the interior light off as in the video.
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hi, many thanks for your info. yes, this car build in vietnam without keyless go function. I retrofit it for keyless go.
regarding with the concern related to the solenoid of the hatch, i also think about it. But if you again look at the video, whenever i click the close button then it close and if the light is still on then i could easily click the hatch to open the trunk. I only could not open the trunk with the hatch when the interior light off as in the video.
regarding with the concern related to the solenoid of the hatch, i also think about it. But if you again look at the video, whenever i click the close button then it close and if the light is still on then i could easily click the hatch to open the trunk. I only could not open the trunk with the hatch when the interior light off as in the video.
hmmmm.... I really do not know. I see you replaced the standard trunk light (inside on the right) with an LED module. Just for "fun" maybe temporarily replace the LED with the standard bulb since you seem to see a relationship between the state of the light and hatch operation. Having said that, I replaced my trunk light with LED years ago and it caused no problems.
It almost seems like you may have spliced in to a power feed wire or a switched ground wire and then when the timer ends, to turn off the trunk light, it is also taking away power or ground from the electrical devices you added for this keyless opening/closing.
Last edited by MBKLUE; Dec 14, 2024 at 06:07 AM.
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Maybe I'm misreading what Odd Piggy wrote but... the trunk light/interior lights being off or on have no effect on the rear hatch opening by simply pulling the release paddle where the license plate lights are. If the key is sensed from in your pocket, for example, the hatch opens. No relationship to the interior or trunk lighting state - for the factory installed "keyless" opening.
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If we're talking about the factory installed system AND the vehicle being locked, the rear hatch will only open if it senses the key outside the vehicle when using hatch handle. The trunk or interior lights do not come into play. Pushing the rear hatch keyfob button will also open the hatch, of course, but doesn't require the proximity sensing that is required with pulling the hatch handle. It can be opened from a much greater distance. Either way, the trunk or interior lights do not come into play.
With the O.P.s situation the trunk light state does seem to come into play. The difference being his was a retrofit and not the factory installed version.
Last edited by MBKLUE; Dec 14, 2024 at 12:08 PM.
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Then I would be checking the proximity sensor for the rear hatch.
It must be sensing the key somehow because, IIRC, it won't lock unless it senses the key.
One more test you could try is to lock the car as in the video then toss the key to someone 10 feet away, then, before the light goes out, try to open the hatch. If it opens this proves there is a period of time after you "lock" it that it remains unlocked. It may be related to the behavior where, if you unlock it with the remote but don't open anything, it re-locks after 30 seconds.
It must be sensing the key somehow because, IIRC, it won't lock unless it senses the key.
One more test you could try is to lock the car as in the video then toss the key to someone 10 feet away, then, before the light goes out, try to open the hatch. If it opens this proves there is a period of time after you "lock" it that it remains unlocked. It may be related to the behavior where, if you unlock it with the remote but don't open anything, it re-locks after 30 seconds.
