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So looking to get a 2015 glk 350, 98,000 miles to use for driving to work and just in general. I went to look at this one today. Looks clean, Carfax checked out for the most part recently at a Mercedes dealer. Only things about it that was off to me was codes cleared 21km ago but no current codes. When I asked, it’s being sold by a private dealer, according to Carfax I guess he’s had it for 2 weeks since that Mercedes dealer sold it. He said he got the car scanned two days ago and had fault P061B. After some research it could be maf sensor or throttle body. So not CEL and car idled smooth, revved up fine, drove fine no hesitation a bit jerky on sport mode but that wasn’t worrying. I heard a rhythmic rotational “vroom-vroom-vroom” type noise. After accelerating to 40mph and letting off gas, It seemed more noticeable from the rear of the vehicle, though the seller said it may be front brakes which I know need replacing. I told him I’d want to rescan it after he drove it more because it didn’t show readiness on all sensors yet but is there anything specific I can check that will let me know if it’s mechanical/throttle body or a sensor?
Get it fixed first , before you find out it’s a mess and too expensive.
well overall it drove completely fine so that’s what made me think it’s something more minor or a time time ”glitch”. I saw it could be throttle body or maf sensor so that’s an easy fix for me. Just trying to figure out if there a way to pinpoint it without taking anything apart or using scanner. I’ll also rescan it after they drive it some more and we’ll see if anything came back. I did factor in possible fix into the price and for $8,800 it does see like a fair deal.
Being purchased from a MB dealer just two weeks ago and the new owner is now selling may be cause for concern. Regardless, I strongly suggest you get a PPI done before you commit.
Being purchased from a MB dealer just two weeks ago and the new owner is now selling may be cause for concern. Regardless, I strongly suggest you get a PPI done before you commit.
well he’s a dealer not like one with a lot of cars but just buys and sells cars on the side. carfax did show auction, not salvage auction, and then sold again by that Mercedes dealership.
If just purchased and is being sold, I would get it hot , drive it hard , and see how the transmission is. And pay a pro to inspect it
well he’s a dealer not like one with a lot of cars but just buys and sells cars on the side. carfax did show auction, not salvage auction, and then sold again by that Mercedes dealership. It was fully warmed up, i did push it a bit, not like of it was my car but felt ok, definitely didn’t feel anything off in transmission.
P061B could be coming from the MAF sensor or from the transmission conductor plate. It needs to be driven for about 100 miles for all systems to go to ready and be rescanned. If you live in an emissions inspection county, you may fail with this code even without a CEL on. However, some states specifically bypass P061B if the car passes all other emissions criteria. Whether or not to fix this, or pass on the sale, depends on the results of the rescan and your local emission rules.
P061B could be coming from the MAF sensor or from the transmission conductor plate. It needs to be driven for about 100 miles for all systems to go to ready and be rescanned. If you live in an emissions inspection county, you may fail with this code even without a CEL on. However, some states specifically bypass P061B if the car passes all other emissions criteria. Whether or not to fix this, or pass on the sale, depends on the results of the rescan and your local emission rules.
well I’m not sure how much they would have driven it since yesterday. I’m supposed to meet them again tomorrow. I’ll try and read some like data like, air flow, throttle body or gas pedal position see if those line up and are smooth. I could wait for it to get more miles but I guess they don’t drive it and only take it for test drives. Honestly car looks fine and sounds good too. Just that code. I could pass on the sale and wait for another but if this doesn’t re-appear or is only a sensor I wouldn’t want to. I know maf sensor is cheap, from what I found that transmission conductor plate is a couple hundred so not really that bad because they went down ok price for me and I would diy anything I can on it. I’m in nj and I’m pretty sure they will pass inspection.
2012 GL450, 1998 E300, 2014 GLK350, 2004 Ram 2500 with the Cummins
The GLK is my all time favorite car so far. I'm on my 2nd one after putting 320k miles on first one. Gave it to step daughter and her hubby uses it back and forth to work.
i agree have the seller fix it before you buy. What part of country did car spend it's life in? I'd be more concerned about the whoop whoop whoop than ck engine lite if it is running like it should.
I'd pass just on the whoop whoop whoop.
That price sounds low to me.
Last edited by engatwork; May 10, 2026 at 05:56 PM.
The GLK is my all time favorite car so far. I'm on my 2nd one after putting 320k miles on first one. Gave it to step daughter and her hubby uses it back and forth to work.
i agree have the seller fix it before you buy. What part of country did car spend it's life in? I'd be more concerned about the whoop whoop whoop than ck engine lite if it is running like it should.
I'd pass just on the whoop whoop whoop.
That price sounds low to me.
well he took off a couple hundred so that I can take care of the other stuff it needs like tires, front brakes and some cosmetic stuff. It was up for $9,500. Really since I diy I don’t mind working on it just wanted to figure out what it might be.i it was here most of the time in PA. But looks clean u didnt see any surface rust and suspension felt good.
2012 GL450, 1998 E300, 2014 GLK350, 2004 Ram 2500 with the Cummins
Going on memory here but early on there was a recall for rusted rear subframe. I think it was resolved by 2015 but may not hurt to inspect good. Run VIN on one of those website that has recall info.
I paid $15k a year ago for my second one with approximately 89k miles on it. Coming up on 120k soon. Personally I'd be looking for one from the south. The last one was purchased at Lexus dealer in Hilton Head.
Last edited by engatwork; May 10, 2026 at 06:15 PM.
well I’m not sure how much they would have driven it since yesterday. I’m supposed to meet them again tomorrow. I’ll try and read some like data like, air flow, throttle body or gas pedal position see if those line up and are smooth. I could wait for it to get more miles but I guess they don’t drive it and only take it for test drives. Honestly car looks fine and sounds good too. Just that code. I could pass on the sale and wait for another but if this doesn’t re-appear or is only a sensor I wouldn’t want to. I know maf sensor is cheap, from what I found that transmission conductor plate is a couple hundred so not really that bad because they went down ok price for me and I would diy anything I can on it. I’m in nj and I’m pretty sure they will pass inspection.
Since you’re a DIYer cost of maintenance and repairs will be lower. That P061B is an “ignore it” code IF 1) you live in a non-emission county; or 2) you live in a county that exempts that code like me (Montgomery, TX); and 3) it isn’t causing a limp mode situation.
It really may only take cleaning the throttle body with som carb cleaner on a rag to get rid of the DTC. The dealer you describe sounds like a flipper, so you’re going to have to buy it to find out. Good luck.
If Y3/8n4 is bad, you’re eventually going to run into a situation that will trigger limp mode. That’s why there’s a big and IF. It’s just so common and can be caused by other things that some states are exempting it where it is the sole failure on emission inspection.
Can you post the Carfax pages, specifically the last 2yrs of records. Curious what it says.
I never dealt with a P061B fault code before so i'm getting my information searching around.
Spent about 20 minutes searching for that code and reading about it. From KBB they say it can be complicated to diagnose and fix, also says you should avoid driving the car. You may not have a check engine light on now but it could be triggered in the future or even could have been on and erased previously. From reading thru threads a few people have dealt with the code who have tuned the car, one person had the ECU replaced to solve the code fault.
Came across a Xentry worksheet on code P061B00 which is not the same but looks similar. That involved a software update apparently.
iCarsoft has a good article on P061B. They use examples for other cars and list the solution. Could be simple and inexpensive or could be expensive.
I dont see how this code would effect emissions. The emissions checks if your cats/O2 sensors are working, checks fuel system for leaks, think that may be it but could be missing something. This P061B code seems related to drivability of the car. The car could be saying its not ready yet due to the specific drive cycles not being completed, car hasnt been driven enough after codes erased. I could be wrong but I think my obd scanner will perform the tests.
Heres the requierments for the fuel system leak tests.
It’s deeper than I ever went and I’ve been pretty deep into the 722.9.
Where do you get the time to do all this investigating? (rhetorical question - don’t answer)
I read quick and scan for keywords i'm looking for.
I'm trying to see if I would buy this car and so far its a no. Too big of an unknown to take a risk on. My w204 doesnt have any fault codes and i'm worried it will randomly go into limp mode just driving around. This GLK has a fault code pointing to it.
I'll add that when looking for a new car its a good idea to bring your own obd scanner and check for yourself.
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