2017 GLS 450 Halogen to HID Install Guide
halogens are terrible on this model. LED H7s may be an option, but
think that the fit would be TIGHT and may have to change out the dust
cap for an elongated one. Some question as to the LED quality in a
projector setup as well. Long and short, the HIDs are MUCH better
than the halogens and worth the $150. Takes about an hour, bit
fiddly getting bulbs in tight space, but worth it.
THE KIT:
Used Aznoptics' Morimoto/Hylux 35W 5500K kit. 55W may be 10%
brighter, but a bit worried about overheating in the projector
housing. 5500K best IMHO, but no longer available. 5000k or
6000k, latter hint of blue tint, former hint of yellow. Get the H7A
which has the large return wire on the bottom, opposite the flat
portion on top of adapter ring NOT the H7B with the return wire
on same side as the flat portion of adapter ring (casts shadow)
Use OEM bulb adapter rings, NOT NOT aftermarket (see below)
For overview, the rubber boot will go in the hole you drill in the dust covers.
The spade connections go inside into the car's harness. POLARITY
matters for these; if lights don't work, switch these first. Won't hurt
anything with wrong polarity. Everything to the left of the rubber boot
needs to be hidden above the wheel well. Didn't need the blue ground BTW
and just cut off.
PREPARATION:
You'll need mini screwdriver to pop halogen light off its tabs, A step drill bit to cut
LED light that sits on tire nice to have as well.
REUSE your bulb adapters or go to the dealership and get OEM bulb adapters. They're rectangular, fit the
Morimoto base just fine, but most importantly have dimpled flanges that lock into the headlight ring.
Also, solid ring that won't allow play. All aftermarket seem to be flimsy and ill fitting.
EXPOSURE and APPROACH
Really don't need to take off the tires; just get a little extra clearance by turning
tire towards opposite side and hitting the "raise" button on the car for that 4" Can
even put cheap carjack under lift point behind tire and get a few more inches of
elbow room. Just make sure parking brake is on.
Start with the passenger side; clearance in the housing a bit easier.
WHEEL WELL ACCESS
Pull the center out of the fastener below, and pull out ribbed "bolt". Then grab
the finger holds and slide panel. Easy peasy.
REMOVING BULB HARNESS
Simple counter clockwise twist and it'll pop out. The tabs holding the
bulb adapter to the bulb are bit tricky-- I used a mini screwdriver to pry off.
NOTE the dimples on the stock bulb adapter. These lock into
the headlight socket. WON'T find these on Euro adapters on Ebay,
etc. Their flanges that don't lock so well and make fitment loose.
RESUSE yours, or GET OEM from the dealership. After buying a $70k car,
they should give you a free pair and a cup of coffee when you swing by to ask.
Pull the bulb spade connectors out of the harness. The harness is below,
where you plug in the spade connectors on the kit. 50/50 getting polarity
right the first time. It'll stay inside the headlight housing at the end,
sealed off by the dust cover.
AFTERMARKET or OEM BULB ADAPTER?
Aftermarket Euro adapter on left, OEM on right. Both work, but without the
dimples the aftermarket toggles in the housing. Yes, aftermarket is "cutout"
allowing direct fitment to bulb, but this gap also makes it weak when twisting
it onto the housing. This and lack of bumps make fit loose. With bit of filing
(see below), can thread wires through the OEM adapter no problem, and have
rigid adapter with bumps for good positive lock. (If you look closely below, I cut
access through the OEM to get the wires through. Lost all rigidity, don't to this!
File connectors and push through. Explained later)
DRILLING DUST COVER
Use a stepped drill bit to cut around 1" hole for wires/rubber boot. Measure boot that comes with your Morimotos. Start small, can always cut more
ADAPTING CONNECTORS TO GO THROUGH THE OEM BULB ADAPTER
The HID bulb's two wires with connectors need to go through the bulb adapter. One
goes easily, the other needs just a bit filed off each side to get through:
REMOVING THE RUBBER BOOT
Now that you've filed the connectors, you've got to get the rubber boot
off to be able to slide the adapter up to the bulb. Use an exacto knife to bridge the
two nipples, and pull the connectors out . Cut away from the wires. Like an episiotomy for
delivering a baby.. You'll see what I mean.
With the rubber boot off, slide the adapter up to the bulb. Really goes
on only one way. PUSH the connectors back through the boot, and make
sure the spade connectors in a good spot. See below. Put on the
gloves and clean the bulb. The return wire on the H7A is on same side as
rounded part of ring. Flat part of adapter ring opposite side.
KNOW YOUR ENEMY
Now the fun part. Below is what the headlight ring looks like-- tabs at 180 degrees
are where the bumped flanges on the adapter lock in. Start with flat portion of adapter ring
on top, rounded part below and rotate clockwise. Can only go in one
way, so with patience (and wheels turned away) push in and turn clockwise. Reference
picture(s) below to see the locking tabs you're trying to rotate the adapter rings dimpled
flanges into.
For reference below, this was the OEM adapter I cut to try to get connectors through without filing. Note
the lower flange isn't engaging as ring is bending. This also happened with the aftermarket adapters that have a gap. Use
OEM, don't cut, and you'll have a good rigid click. Also, DON'T put the dust cover on until AFTER the bulb is on,
spades connected, and bulb tested. It gets in your way during bulb installation.
DUST COVER AND WRAP UP
Once bulb clicked in, confirm visually tabs are engaged and bulb should be very secure. Take a guess
and connect the spades to the bulb harness inside the housing. Test. If doesn't work, reverse them.
Once got it right, thread the dust cover over the big connector and two smaller connectors and get the
rubber boot in the hole nicely. Make sure the spade/bulb harness is inside the light housing, and twist the
cover on clockwise. TEST AGAIN as sometimes spade connectors will come loose!
Now simple matter of connecting the big connector and two smaller ones to the rest of the kit. Used velcro
tape to secure the parts on top of the plastic wheel wells. Just enough flat space to work.
Below is sample of before/after. Feel free to offer any other tips or advice!
Last edited by fastback174; Dec 12, 2021 at 08:07 PM.
Did you or anyone else swap out the high beams? I'd like to swap them out for LED H7's but haven't heard or seen anyone try yet.
I used this step-by-step guide to install the HID headlight ony 2017 GLS 450 back in Dec, absolutely love it, the difference is night and day! Thank you!
Notes:
1. Make sure you have all the tools ready.
2. When drilling the dusk cover, make it as small as possible
3. Use your original bulb holder, not the one shipped in aftermarket package
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