I cut a hole in the belly pan so don't need to remove it during my next oil change. Have to stuff some rugs or so to prevent it from over-splashing on the inside during the drain.
The only version of the maintenance booklet I Have is 2017 model year. For all systems except 48V it shouldn't have changed:
engine oil 10k miles
engine oil filter 10k miles
engine air filter 50k miles
cabin filters every other service
coolant 100k miles
spark plugs 50k miles
transmission service 60k miles
axle differentials oil: MB says nothing but I changed it at 60k miles
transfer case oil: MB says nothing but I changed it at 60k miles
brake fluid replacement every 2 years (time-based, not mileage-based)
Any idea what type of oil is in the transfer case and front/rear difs for the 2021 model?
MB specs the same t/case oil for W166 and V167 without torque on demand. Dealer couldn't figure out which oil was the correct one. I ended up using 236.14 A001989680315 and it has been fine for the past several months.
MB specifies the same axle oil for W166 and V167. Two dealers I visited had no clue about differential oil. Not surprising because MB does not specify replacement for axle lube. So I went with the generic MB 75W-85 part no. A001989330312 . Most dealers are mostly useless. I have used the A001989330312 oil for the past several months with no issues. I changed my axle and t/case oil around 60k miles.
MB specs the same t/case oil for W166 and V167 without torque on demand. Dealer couldn't figure out which oil was the correct one. I ended up using 236.14 A001989680315 and it has been fine for the past several months.
MB specifies the same axle oil for W166 and V167. Two dealers I visited had no clue about differential oil. Not surprising because MB does not specify replacement for axle lube. So I went with the generic MB 75W-85 part no. A001989330312 . Most dealers are mostly useless. I have used the A001989330312 oil for the past several months with no issues. I changed my axle and t/case oil around 60k miles.
Do you have any idea if the front and rear are open differentials or LSD?
To my knowledge all front differentials are open.
Transfer case differential is either open, or has a torque transfer feature. The off road engineering package has a transfer case differential lock, the AMG 4MATIC+ system has a variable torque transfer function.
AMG 4MATIC+ uses a rear locking differential, base models use an open differential.
The reason for the above comments is that fluids are generally not the same comparing open differential vs locking or variable differentials. Locking or variable differentials use friction clutch plates or dog clutches and the fluids often have friction modifiers to improve performance. Open differentials do not need the modifiers.
At around 10k miles it was time for the first oil change (some people change it before that in a new vehicle).
This is for the six-cylinder non-AMG gasoline x167 GLS450. The vehicle will continuously send you reminders and ask if you want to contact the dealership way way in advance and continually so it’s a bit aggravating. I don’t know of any way to acknowledge or reduce the alert message until after the oil is changed. When it was all said and done, this is actually a pretty easy vehicle to change the oil on. The dealership said that me changing my own oil does not void the warranty as long as I record when it was done and the material used. In my younger years I worked at various oil change in facilities and I have always changed my own oil in a variety of vehicles, but just as a disclaimer because the world is now the way it is…the below is just my process and procedure and in no way do I or the website hold accountability or liability. With that said let’s get to it!
1) get your supplies ready
- 9 quarts (8.5 liters) of oil meeting Mercedes 229.51 / 229.52 spec
- filter (A 256-184-00-00)
-funnel not needed but highly recommended
- new drain plug (honestly it looked like it could be reused but I don’t want to take the chance voiding any warranty over a cheap plastic plug). (002-990-20-17)
- Means to detach bottom guard (I just used a power drill) for the eight 8mm bolts
- short flat head screwdriver (wide head)
- socket to remove oil filter housing (27mm, 6 point)
- container to catch oil drained
Just a picture for reference a vehicle the oil change was performed on. Note that the grill has been changed from stock/OEM.
Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40 & Mercedes 229.51 and 229.52 spec
Mobile1 ESP 5W-40 & Mercedes 229.51 spec
Parts from dealership a state away
Steps:
1) This is done before draining the oil to make sure you have the tools to remove the filter and the correct filter before training the oil and then it’s too late. Remove the inner retaining clips from the air intake vent then remove The actual retaining clip. Swivel the air duct out of the way which is pretty neat because the Mercedes emblem is integrated in and it rotates.
2) Use the filter housing removing tool or socket (I have to post the size I forgot) to remove the filter housing.
3) Remove the old filter and gaskets and replace them with new. There’s only one way the filter can go in due to the barb protrusion so put the filter in the engine first then screw the cap over it. If you put the filter in the cap first and then try to screw them both in at the same time you could break the barb off. When it’s all done just hand tighten until the housing is snug. Once the housing is tightened to the point that it contacts the metal portion of the engine, apply 25 Nm. Do not try to over tighten because you’ll just crack the housing. Having the filter housing on when you drain the oil will slightly reduce the velocity of the oil draining when that step is performed and therefore result in less of a mess. Notice the area for the barb to enter Old filter New filter with barb on bottom
4) Use the air-ride suspension to lift the vehicle as this makes more room when working room underneath. I also left the driver door open during the entire process because that should also prevent the air-ride to move or change positions.
5) make sure the emergency brake is on and the car is in park and I even chock the wheels in both directions.
6) remove the bottom guard and note that the front is held on by two retaining hooks so don’t just jerk it off or you will break the guard…it has to be pushed towards the front of the vehicle pull down just slightly and then removed it’s a lot easier than what it sounds. Lift guard cutout section above metal retaining hook when removing and replacing…don’t pull or jerk as it may brake. Bottom splashguard removed. I believe it was 8 screws. No need to loosen other splash guards to remove this single one like some other Mercedes vehicles. First oil change had oil leaking around factory drain plug this was before it was touched at all. By the time the vehicle needed an all change, The level when checked electronically on the dash was showing the level between minimum and maximum and initially it was maximum. This could’ve been just regular oil usage as well but still not too excited about the oil visibly present on a brand new vehicle… again I use to change oil as a means to pay for my college and this is not normal to me. Factory oil leakage before first oil change
6) lay down a little plastic or cardboard and then put the oil catch container under the drain.
7) With a flat head screwdriver, unscrew the drain plug but not all of the way because you don’t want to make a mess… let the vehicle start draining. Have a beer or dram of whiskey and then put the new oil drain plug in and tighten. I wish Mercedes would’ve mold it to alignment arrows or lines in the plug and oil pan for verification but… when it’s hand tight it will just stop turning and if you over tighten all it will do is deform the plastic slot where the screwdriver goes. No Nm specified for the plug. Leaving the drain plug and does not make a mess New and old plugs
8) put 9 quarts of all into the engine. I have an old oil bottle that I cut the end off of that makes it pretty easy because it’s wide and it fits in there but a store-bought funnel will work as well. Notice there is a ledge and the engine design so do not fill it up too fast or you will make a mess. I like to hold the funnel with one hand and dump the oil with the other. Also please make sure to remove all of the foil around the foil containers because I have seen that foil be accidentally poured into the engine. Place the cap back on. Shelf/ledge where oil is added. Pour slow. Funnel
9) Start the engine and check for leaks. Let the engine run and check the oil level via computer:
Please add any helpful information.
I read somewhere that the torque specs for the filter housing cap and the drain plug or molded into them but I did not check.
Will the Oil Extraction Method through the dipstick work on a 2022 GLS450?
Too bad. Extraction through dipstick makes oil changes a 10 min process in my CLS63. I don't have my GLS yet, but I'm hoping you can extract from the fill cap.
The service manual that came with my 2024 GLS450 indicates 8.5 liters of engine oil but the onboard computer engine oil checking says the max capacity is 8 liters of engine oil. Which one is correct? I called Mercedes and they said follow the book. I'm using the workshop -> engine oil to check the oil level. Holding the home button for 5 seconds and then the OK button for 10 to get the workshop app to show up.
The service manual that came with my 2024 GLS450 indicates 8.5 liters of engine oil but the onboard computer engine oil checking says the max capacity is 8 liters of engine oil. Which one is correct? I called Mercedes and they said follow the book. I'm using the workshop -> engine oil to check the oil level. Holding the home button for 5 seconds and then the OK button for 10 to get the workshop app to show up.
Pour in 8 liters then check with the onboard computer with a warm engine. Add 0.5 liter if needed.
Thank you for the answers. I didn't do a great job in explaining the interface on the 2024 GLS450, I think the pictures I've attached help explain. There's no oil dipstick. The only way to check the oil is through the workshop app which shows the measurement of the OIL numerically. Unfortunately, the book contradicts the computer for the OIL CAPACITY at 8.5 liters for book and 8 liters for computer. I went with 8.3 liters for mine,
Thank you for the answers. I didn't do a great job in explaining the interface on the 2024 GLS450, I think the pictures I've attached help explain. There's no oil dipstick. The only way to check the oil is through the workshop app which shows the measurement of the OIL numerically. Unfortunately, the book contradicts the computer for the OIL CAPACITY at 8.5 liters for book and 8 liters for computer. I went with 8.3 liters for mine,
That's why I called it an "electronic dipstick."
The fact still remains that there's no way to tell how much oil has been drained, and how much is left in the crank case.
Specifications don't know or tell that.
I believe the system targets +/- .5L for the warnings. I misread 10 Quarts for 10 Liters the first time I did our 580. The workshop menu showed exactly .5L over but it took two weeks for the overfill message to be shown. After reading the specs right and buying 5qt bottles the 2nd oil change landed about .2L or .3L over with no warnings.
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