At around 10k miles it was time for the first oil change (some people change it before that in a new vehicle).

This is for the six-cylinder non-AMG gasoline x167 GLS450. The vehicle will continuously send you reminders and ask if you want to contact the dealership way way in advance and continually so it’s a bit aggravating. I don’t know of any way to acknowledge or reduce the alert message until after the oil is changed. When it was all said and done, this is actually a pretty easy vehicle to change the oil on. The dealership said that me changing my own oil does not void the warranty as long as I record when it was done and the material used. In my younger years I worked at various oil change in facilities and I have always changed my own oil in a variety of vehicles, but just as a disclaimer because the world is now the way it is…the below is just my process and procedure and in no way do I or the website hold accountability or liability. With that said let’s get to it!

1) get your supplies ready
- 9 quarts (8.5 liters) of oil meeting Mercedes 229.51 / 229.52 spec
- filter (A 256-184-00-00)
-funnel not needed but highly recommended
- new drain plug (honestly it looked like it could be reused but I don’t want to take the chance voiding any warranty over a cheap plastic plug). (002-990-20-17)
- Means to detach bottom guard (I just used a power drill) for the eight 8mm bolts
- short flat head screwdriver (wide head)
- socket to remove oil filter housing (27mm, 6 point)
- container to catch oil drained



Just a picture for reference a vehicle the oil change was performed on. Note that the grill has been changed from stock/OEM.









Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40 or 0W-30 & Mercedes 229.51 and 229.52 spec


Mobile1 ESP 5W-40 & Mercedes 229.51 spec

Other approved oils can be found here:
https://operatingfluids.mercedes-ben...heet/229.51/en




Parts from dealership a state away


Steps:

1) This is done before draining the oil to make sure you have the tools to remove the filter and the correct filter before training the oil and then it’s too late. Remove the inner retaining clips from the air intake vent then remove The actual retaining clip. Swivel the air duct out of the way which is pretty neat because the Mercedes emblem is integrated in and it rotates.


2) Use the filter housing removing tool or socket (I have to post the size I forgot) to remove the filter housing.


3) Remove the old filter and gaskets and replace them with new. There’s only one way the filter can go in due to the barb protrusion so put the filter in the engine first then screw the cap over it. If you put the filter in the cap first and then try to screw them both in at the same time you could break the barb off. When it’s all done just hand tighten until the housing is snug. Once the housing is tightened to the point that it contacts the metal portion of the engine, apply 25 Nm. Do not try to over tighten because you’ll just crack the housing. Having the filter housing on when you drain the oil will slightly reduce the velocity of the oil draining when that step is performed and therefore result in less of a mess.

Notice the area for the barb to enter

Old filter

New filter with barb on bottom

4) Use the air-ride suspension to lift the vehicle as this makes more room when working room underneath. I also left the driver door open during the entire process because that should also prevent the air-ride to move or change positions.

5) make sure the emergency brake is on and the car is in park and I even chock the wheels in both directions.

6) remove the bottom guard and note that the front is held on by two retaining hooks so don’t just jerk it off or you will break the guard…it has to be pushed towards the front of the vehicle pull down just slightly and then removed it’s a lot easier than what it sounds.

Lift guard cutout section above metal retaining hook when removing and replacing…don’t pull or jerk as it may brake.

Bottom splashguard removed. I believe it was 8 screws. No need to loosen other splash guards to remove this single one like some other Mercedes vehicles.

First oil change had oil leaking around factory drain plug this was before it was touched at all. By the time the vehicle needed an all change, The level when checked electronically on the dash was showing the level between minimum and maximum and initially it was maximum. This could’ve been just regular oil usage as well but still not too excited about the oil visibly present on a brand new vehicle… again I use to change oil as a means to pay for my college and this is not normal to me.

Factory oil leakage before first oil change

6) lay down a little plastic or cardboard and then put the oil catch container under the drain.

7) With a flat head screwdriver, unscrew the drain plug but not all of the way because you don’t want to make a mess… let the vehicle start draining. Have a beer or dram of whiskey and then put the new oil drain plug in and tighten. I wish Mercedes would’ve mold it to alignment arrows or lines in the plug and oil pan for verification but… when it’s hand tight it will just stop turning and if you over tighten all it will do is deform the plastic slot where the screwdriver goes. No Nm specified for the plug.

Leaving the drain plug and does not make a mess

New and old plugs

8) put 9 quarts of all into the engine. I have an old oil bottle that I cut the end off of that makes it pretty easy because it’s wide and it fits in there but a store-bought funnel will work as well. Notice there is a ledge and the engine design so do not fill it up too fast or you will make a mess. I like to hold the funnel with one hand and dump the oil with the other. Also please make sure to remove all of the foil around the foil containers because I have seen that foil be accidentally poured into the engine. Place the cap back on.

Shelf/ledge where oil is added. Pour slow.

Funnel

9) Start the engine and check for leaks. Let the engine run and check the oil level via computer:






10) Put the air intake vent back together including the clips then replace the bottom splash guard.

11) follow these steps to reset the computer:



Please add any helpful information.
I read somewhere that the torque specs for the filter housing cap and the drain plug or molded into them but I did not check.

 

Very good tutorial on changing the oil and its good to know the car suspension goes up high enough to change the oil without needing lifts. I used to do the oil extraction method from the top on my cars, but they have gone away with that with the GLS. I will try this now as it seems pretty simple without lifting the car.

 

To the OP, thank you for this excellent post. Was kinda worried there weren't enough DIYer's around here. I won't be in a position to do much maintenance myself for the next couple years, but nice to see this looking to the future. 👍

 

Sorry to tell you this but you used the wrong oil. 229.5 is not the same as 229.51. 229.5 is not up to date for this vehicle, unless you manual is different than mine, your engine can only use 229.51, 229.53, 229.61, 229.71. If you want to document the oil change for MB warranty I suggest you go out and get the correct spec. and change it, so you don't give them a reason to refuse engine warranty. I do my own oil changes too and used MB purchased oil last time. You can get other oils that are approved, see https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevol...229.51_en.html

 

yeah you’re right it looks like I need to get the ESP. I’ll update the post to avoid any future confusion for others.

https://www.mobil.com/en-ca/passenge...bil-1-esp-0w40

 

Excellent DIY tutorial thanks!

 

WIS procedure attached.

 

This is a great post!
Thank you.

by the way, you were able to elevate the GLS high enough that allowed you to crawl underneath?


.

 

Never crawl under a air ride car that is unsuported🤕
The car may lower whether the car is on or off. Very dangerous. Always use ramps or towers!!!!

 

I know that.

But look at his Point #4 and #5.
He evens states that he chocks the wheels so it does not move.
I don't think you can chock a wheel in a tire lift, and there is no mention of lifts so I wanted to clarify.

.

 

Chucks should also "always" be used when you lift a car but many DIY guys (including me) forsake that part😉 If you use ramps the often have a lip that prevents the car from rolling.
I just wanted to put the air suspension warning since not everyone is aware of that particular hazard. Nothing worse than getting pinned under a car!😮

 

Oh I agree!

I was just a little confused by what the OP wrote as he did not mention using lifts at all.
Overall the post is still quite helpful.


.

 

It’s an SUV not a car. I could fit (6 foot and 200 lbs) when not lifted, just makes it easier when it is. You would have to be pretty “hefty” for it to be a hazard, and your arm/hands are working under the vehicle, not in the engine bay. If you don’t fit…don’t try it…or at least that’s what she said…

 

Just did an oil change and can fill in a few blanks and add some tips:

1) The oil filter housing socket size is 27mm, 6 point. Same as a lot of other later Mercedes cartridge filter housings. Auto Zone has them because Ford is using the same size on a lot of stuff. DO NOT use a 12 point! Housing is plastic and you risk rounding the shoulders off if it slips!
2) Belly pan uses 8mm socket, 8 bolts.
3) Belly pan trailing edge has a lip that rides above the next adjacent belly pan - it goes on TOP.
3) When going back together hook the front of the belly pan in first (it's pretty easy once you see the arrangement), THEN get the rear edge lip up over the the mating belly pan. It will hold roughly in position without bolts.
4) Hand start ALL the bolts before you tighten. Some wiggling of the pan may be needed to get it all lined up and that's not going to happen if ANY are already tight.
5) There was enough clearance to do the job with suspension at regular height, no ramps or anything. I'd recommend driving the fronts up on some 2x12's of something to gain just a bit more room.
6) You'll only get the front 4 belly pan bolts on a frontal assault; for the rest go in behind the front wheels. It's a bit of a stretch.
7) You'll be stretching to get to the drain plug from the front. I did it, but again would be easier with the front wheels up on some 2x12's or something.
8) Factory says 8.5 liters; OP states 9 QUARTS (8.6 Liters). I put in about 8.45 liters because my garage floor isn't perfectly level (sloped for floor drain) and may not have been able to get all the old stuff out as a result. Oil level check shows "full" when on true level ground.
9) Got all my stuff from Pelican Parts. Recommend them; good outfit.

A couple of cool observations... the belly pan incorporates NACA ducts with vortex generators! Once removed I couldn't help but admire the build quality of all the stuff under there. The air conditioner condensate drain will end up dripping on you NO MATTER where you seem to be under the car. Make sure you have a suitable size drain pan... an 8 quart isn't going to cut it! Carry on...

 

so i just called an indy shop to schedule an oil change and told the guy i only have 2700 miles on the car. he told me to just wait for the car to tell me that it needs a change. what's the consensus here? change sooner rather than later or the car is smart enough to let me know if/when it needs to be taken care of?

 

Yes, it will tell you based on time/mileage. Expect it to become insistent around 10K or a year. BUT... I'm old school. For me, personally, I am comfortable getting a first oil chance around 2-3K. Always have; always will. I did it myself. Not too bad. I didn't reset the service indicator, so I anticipate it will still go off around 10K or so. I'm fine with picking up the regular intervals hereafter. Many people just go by the service indicators; it's what MB states and you likely won't go wrong by any means. What I chose to do was strictly for my own comfort/confidence level. Isn't going to hurt anything, and more than likely may actually help in the long run. Who knows! Just chalk it up to me being an old school automotive fool!

If you have an indy shop do it, make SURE they are aware of the oil spec requirements and put the right stuff in there! Check your manual. Check what they propose to put in. Make sure it has the listed MB Approvals. The oil is a bit hard to find just sitting on the shelf, and the older "European Car" blends (for the most part) don't meet the new spec. (229.52) Double check! The wrong oil will mess up the exhaust trap oxidizers (yes... they are not just for diesels anymore...).

 

i'm old school too. my audi allegedly can go 10k between changes, but i usually do 5k. i had planned on changing it after the first 2-3k miles, but when i called the shop up to make an appointment, the guy who answered said it wasn't necessary. this is a reputable shop in the bay area too! i may just order the stuff and do the change myself, and maybe do the oil changes in between the 10k intervals going forward. i did purchase the car after all, and plan on keeping it in good shape.

 

No better way to bond with a new machine than by doing a bit of maintenance work on it yourself! Every time I do that I learn a lot about the vehicle, get a better appreciation for it, actually enjoy the ownership experience a bit more. Oil changes, air filters, brake pads, all the easy stuff - bring it on! It's still a car, not an appliance, and wrenching is becoming a dying art!

 

so now the question - which oil do MB owners prefer? i've been using liqui moly on my audi q5 for years now and like it. i noticed there are a few varietals that show up on the 229.51 approved list for the gls450.

 

Hell of a rabbit hole to go down... as long as it meets the specs called out in the owners manual or is on MB's approved oil list (https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevol...229.52_en.html or the other lists of approved specs - search seperately) you can feel free to pick your poison! Coke vs. Pepsi; American whisky vs. Irish; yeah... no "favorite" really... just choices... ME, I'm partial to Mobil 1, but can't get the spec in my area. Motul is available and good stuff from the vendor I mentioned. Your local results may vary...

 

I purchased my last oil at the dealer. Got MB brand at competitive price.

 

Appreciated the WIS oil change procedure. Can you post the Master Checklist pages, the one that shows over the course of 170k miles what to look at on the alternating A & B services? I cannot find one online yet, and my Xentry WIS/EPC is only up to 2018!

thank You!

 

The only version of the maintenance booklet I Have is 2017 model year. For all systems except 48V it shouldn't have changed:

engine oil 10k miles
engine oil filter 10k miles
engine air filter 50k miles
cabin filters every other service
coolant 100k miles
spark plugs 50k miles
transmission service 60k miles
axle differentials oil: MB says nothing but I changed it at 60k miles
transfer case oil: MB says nothing but I changed it at 60k miles
brake fluid replacement every 2 years (time-based, not mileage-based)

 

Did this yesterday. Notes:
Service A popups started around 11 months use / 8,900 miles and said "Due in 27 days."
Oil used was Mobil 1 0w30 ESP from AutoZone. Meets 229.52.
Oil filter was Hengst 256 184 00 00.
If you choose to use the air suspension lift, do the lift first. Mine did not work unless car was running.
Air lift barely allows enough room for a 200 lb middle-age amateur mechanic. More clearance would make the work easier.
Do not drop one of the body clips that secure the air intake. Don't ask me how I know this.
Oil filter socket 27 mm was procured at Harbor Freight.
I replaced the drain screw with new item; the old one looked perfectly good and I would think these could actually be re-used a couple of times.
The belly pan can be replaced by starting some screws loosely at the front and then bending the pan slightly to position correctly at the back.

 

Wait a sec....so for this suv oil changes has to be done the old fashion way? You can't do it from the top? I am guessing there is no dip stick present. More reason to stick with the previous generation then.