Did my first DIY oil chage on the ML today. Have done oil changes on the w202 before so not the hardest thing in the world to do.

My only complaint would be that STUPID oil drain plug design. Open it up and oil hits EVERYTHING in its way. Got oil everywhere, including me I think this is the only drain plug I've seen designed this way. Definitely have to figure something out for next time...maybe a funnel to catch the oil as it's coming out then down to the pan.

Bought the fleece filter from the dealer parts counter...quick question, does anyone know if there is suppose to be one extra o-ring left over? The package came with 4. One big for the top of the oil filter cap, one small for the bottom of that plastic filter holder, two medium sized ones which I saw only one was used for the filter holder. So I have one extra one and I looked but didn't see another o-ring needed to be replaced...

Other than that, $45 for the oil and $20 for the filter. Total of $65 vs $100 taking it to someone to change.

Fun Fun

I agree with you about the location of the oil drain plug.
I usually hold a funnel right underneath it while removing the
drain plug. That helps a lot.

About the O-ring gaskets that come with the Oil Filter:
There should be 4. You must've missed one. It is possible
that whoever changed oil last time on your car, didn't put
the fourth one in; hence, you didn't see it.

I buy the Oil Filter on line (around $9). I use regular oil.
I change oil every 3000 miles or sooner. I check the oil level
as well as the color of the oil [on the dip stick] every weekend.

Except for the way the drain plug is designed, oil change on
an ML is so easy. You can get underneath the truck without
having to raise.

Yup, agree. Very easy to do.

Any danger if that 4th o-ring isn't put in? If not, I'll just wait till next time and check it out more closely to see where it could belong.

Thanks

Since the filter is one top, I would remove and install that o-ring.

Save yourself the aggravation of making a mess and use a siphon pump to draw oil out of the dipstick tube. This removes 99.9 % of the oil and is incredibly easy to do.

If you enjoy getting underneath your ML, you could opt for the device made by FRAM called the SureDrain. This is a screw in plug that replaces your oil drain plug that has a design where all you do is remove a cover/screw on a fitting with a 12" drain tube and direct it where you want.

Personally, I've been using the Tempo Oil Extractor for the last two years and I would never go back to the old-fashioned way.............

get a topsider oil extractor with a metal can. you can find these at boat supply stores.

When I get a chance, I'll pull it out again and see if I can find where it goes.

yeah, I was thinking of getting a topsider...be much easier to do. Any idea on costs? I'm assuming they'll hold around 8 quarts.

another vote for getting a topside oil extractor. I've done 3 oil changes with that and its sooo easy! Just be sure you get an extractor that can hold 9 qts of oil. Now change your plugs! That will really save you some bucks...

The extractor is the only way to go. I got a Pela extractor, it's only 6.5 liters capacity, but that's not too much trouble. Much less than having oil go everywhere......Once you try it this way, you will never go back. I won't, that's for sure.

hmm, when I do the oil changes I usually toss the ML on the lift and walk under it. wedge a funnel right where it comes out and it drains right in to the used oil tank, lol.

I also have 3 '0' rings on my oil filter. I wonder if they changed the set up when they changed the MLs around.

speak more of this oil pump... would this be able to pump oil out of say a transmission? and also be able to put it back in? I have a 91 supra in desperate need of an transmission fluid change and it is the most poorly designed set up I have ever seen!!!

55fanatic

All the extractors, I've seen only work one way...removal of fluids and.
yes, you can remove brake fluid/transmission fluid/antifreeze/anything
liquid (would not recommend gasoline).

I'm fairly certain there are four o-rings on the filter housing; one large,
two medium. and one small.

Another win with the extractor is you run no risk of stripping out the
drain hole threads.(also, no busted knuckes loosening that mother!)

I specifically use this...a whole heck of a lot tidier.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122

"Oil is the life blood of an engine" - the difference being frequent transfusions are required. I use the marine version of the top-sider. I don't know the model name, but it is actually a better unit made by a company called Tempo. The Top-sider is a gas can with a bike tire pump stuck to it, but it works fine just the same. The marine versions have to be better to at least be corrosion resistant. Tempo has several models including one that has a 12V pump on top; I guess for the really big engines.

Having several cars in the fleet, changing oil is considerably less messy and just plain civil with one of these things. I would recommend any of these models to any DIY type. Changing the filter is the truely messy job with an ML, or an E-class for that matter (exact same filter). At least you don't do it on your back looking up.

I like Griot's, but the same thing is a few dollars less here. It will extract and pump. Works very well.

MityVac 7201

The SureDrain competing product is the Fumoto valve.
http://www.fumotovalve.com/

I have no personal experience with this product so I am not speaking from personal experience. They make what they call an "N-type" valve which has a nipple that you can attach a plastic tube to so you can direct the oil where you want; granted that there is enough space.
William
2003 E 320

Looked it up and the fumoto valve requires an adapter for the ML.
http://www.fumotovalve.com/merchant.cfm?pid=464&step=4
William
2003 E 320