ML-320 won't start when warm
01-14-2008, 04:32 PM
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ML-320 won't start when warm
Car is not overheating, but must sit for 10 to 15 minutes (30* weather) before it will start. Once running, it runs without issue - no miss, no lag, nothing. To restart after shutting down you just need to wait. It either starts immediately or nothing, no almost.
Changed fuel pump and filter about 6 months ago. No problems until today. Any idea what to look for?
Changed fuel pump and filter about 6 months ago. No problems until today. Any idea what to look for?
01-15-2008, 02:34 PM
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ml320 & c240
Not sure about the code but if you haven't change your cps yet I would go ahead and do it. It's a common porblem with the ml. Easy to replace and not expensive. There is a write up on how to change it. Good Luck
01-17-2008, 01:24 AM
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2000 Mercedes-Benz ML320
In my experience, whether or not the code will show is hit or miss. I saw the "crank position sensor" error code one time out of the handful of times I checked the codes during the time I was experiencing the same problem. I am almost certain you just need to replace the CPS. It's not hard to do and it only costs about $80 and 15 minutes (If I remember correctly). Good luck.
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01-19-2008, 05:46 PM
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1990 190E 2.6, ... 1998 ML320, 2005 ML500SE
I had the same problem and it was the CPS & CPS. (Crankshaft Position Sensor & Camshaft Position Sensor) The one that fails most is the Crankshaft PS.
Mike
Mike
01-28-2008, 05:12 PM
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Replaced the crank position sensor and all seems well.
For those needing to do this, here are some words of advice. You will need a 1/4 inch drive E8 outside torx bit. (it must be 1/4 drive) Other handy things are a 1/4" extension, a couple of long 3/8 extensions (at least 3) and a universal joint for in there somewhere. Oh, of course a 3/8" to 1/4" reducer. On my ML, look down past the brake master cylinder, it is right up next to the block sticking into the bell housing at about the 2:00 o'clock position (front of engine perspective) Have a bright shop light at the ready.
It can be reached from on top. Watch out for the exhaust manifold heat shield. It is sharp. (also, do this on a cold engine. The heat shield only helps a little) Unscrew and make sure to not drop it. Pull the sensor out, unhook from wire harness. Screw in new, pop on wire harness and good to go.
If you have the right tools, this will take 10 minutes once you find the sensor. That is the hardest part.
For those needing to do this, here are some words of advice. You will need a 1/4 inch drive E8 outside torx bit. (it must be 1/4 drive) Other handy things are a 1/4" extension, a couple of long 3/8 extensions (at least 3) and a universal joint for in there somewhere. Oh, of course a 3/8" to 1/4" reducer. On my ML, look down past the brake master cylinder, it is right up next to the block sticking into the bell housing at about the 2:00 o'clock position (front of engine perspective) Have a bright shop light at the ready.
It can be reached from on top. Watch out for the exhaust manifold heat shield. It is sharp. (also, do this on a cold engine. The heat shield only helps a little) Unscrew and make sure to not drop it. Pull the sensor out, unhook from wire harness. Screw in new, pop on wire harness and good to go.
If you have the right tools, this will take 10 minutes once you find the sensor. That is the hardest part.
