How Many Miles Do You Have on Your ML???
Curious what issues I may encounter from here on out and realistically how many more miles I can get out of my car?
Thanks for your input.



Curious what issues I may encounter from here on out and realistically how many more miles I can get out of my car?
Thanks for your input.
Brake booster seals leak
Front shocks/outer steering tie rods
fuel pump
catalytic converters
A/C compressor
Alternator
If you have kept your car well, what I call as tier II parts could fail...
Tier I parts, engine, tranny and drive train should hold up to well till 250K miles...
Knock on wood.
I am at 186K miles...and have gone though half of the above list items..all between 150K miles - 185K miles..
I am hoping to avoid putting any more money into my ML for the time being considering what I just shelled out!
I do take good care of my car so hopefully that pays off.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Brake booster seals leak
Front shocks/outer steering tie rods
fuel pump
catalytic converters
A/C compressor
Alternator
If you have kept your car well, what I call as tier II parts could fail...
Tier I parts, engine, tranny and drive train should hold up to well till 250K miles...
Knock on wood.
I am at 186K miles...and have gone though half of the above list items..all between 150K miles - 185K miles..
Thank you for your reply and heads up.
I am hoping to avoid putting any more money into my ML for the time being considering what I just shelled out!
I do take good care of my car so hopefully that pays off.
It was sitting for a few years after a few things went on it... and now I've recently went to town on fixing it up. I'm leaving nothing untouched.... new brake lines, hoses, calipers, ebrake shoes, battery, O2 sensors... and worked on the transmission yesterday.
It was sitting for a few years after a few things went on it... and now I've recently went to town on fixing it up. I'm leaving nothing untouched.... new brake lines, hoses, calipers, ebrake shoes, battery, O2 sensors... and worked on the transmission yesterday.
The brake lines on my ML rusted out and blew pressure. I decided to replace all four lines (bent them myself), all four brake hoses, and all four calipers. Painted them red too. I bled the system myself several times... took it to a shop after the fact to have them pretty much say I did a good job.
The battery was shot... procedure for that shouldn't be necessary to explain however, at the time, I only had a hex key (allen wrench) so I had to remove the airbox. Shot a **** ton of PBblaster on the bolt for the battery. Everything on my ML is just so rusty.
Brake light switch needed replacing -- since my brake lights would not light up/cruise control was disabled/low range would not engage. Not sure if low range is associated with the brake light switch?? it works now...
My rear passenger knuckle (bearing carrier) needed a new bearing... so I removed the bearing carrier and took it to a NAPA machine shop and had a new bearing pressed in.... quoted MB $450 for parts alone on this. Got the work done at the machine shop for a total of $150 labor and parts. Re-installed the knuckle and bingo. good to go. No need to replace the ABS speed sensor.
I replaced the pilot bushing on the transmission to stop the leak issue i have.... and while doing so I drained the drip pan, removed it... replaced the trans oil filter and put everything back together. Filled it back up with a little over 3.5 liters of MB fluid. I just checked it and it needs a little more... i'll get to that later (only 3 liters or less came out when i drained everything so, figure I'm in better shape now than I was).
I also went to a u-pull-it junkyard that happened to have a '98 ML. I took the A/C lines out of it (full pressure freon everywhere is bad but, at least i know it holds pressure? haha). I refitted my ML with the "new" A/C lines and still have to evacuate and pressurize properly. Right now I have the system with half air and half gas since I didn't vacuum.... but the compressor engages and it blows cool air. Should blow colder.
I need to have a weld job done on the rear frame crossmember before it passes inspection. I also have a slight wobble of my front drivers wheel/tire.... so might be another bearing or a balance issue. Possibily a CV axle issue there as well.... still have to determine that.
I think that's the gist of everything... for now
More pictures coming
Last edited by jtysin3617; Jan 16, 2014 at 03:03 AM.
First engine the 1-st piston ring broke, I only believe because of using Motor-kote in the engine oil.
Pistons and all interior parts where still looking good after 168000 miles. i dismount the engine to the very last bolt. Inside cylinders looked like new, no scratch or sign of worn, very amazed of that, 168000 miles again. I think these engine will run 500k if no oil additive will be added.
We only keep the car now to absorb all the salt Michigan is throwing on the streets in the winter time, spare the BMX 5 from that. I try to sell it for $5500, but not yet. The car is, 4x4, new tires and great stability, we still drive it, and 85 no pr. on the way to church (long drive).
DJ Oradea
Where should I look for this leak as it appears to be around the bottom of the transmission?
My 04 ML270CDI has done 264.000Km still running strong!
Where should I look for this leak as it appears to be around the bottom of the transmission?
My 04 ML270CDI has done 264.000Km still running strong!
If you see oil on the crossmenber, it's likely to come from the inlet manifold. Delete the flaps in the manifold, clean it for black gunk, replace the O rings, and disable the EGR valve. This wil dramaticly increase engine life!


