01 ML320 BAS/ESP, 4-ETS, ABS, Brake Light
Re-starting every 7.5 minutes is getting old. :~(`
Jason

You can also just test fit a switch / 20 min to install and see if it fixes
Good luck
You can also just test fit a switch / 20 min to install and see if it fixes
Good luck
I have Carsoft 7.4, error code is C1401 CAN Bus cannot communicate with ESP module. The module is over $1000 so I am hesitant and looking for help from this forum
was there any solution to this jason??
Last edited by quraeshi; Feb 20, 2011 at 07:02 PM. Reason: added statement
Last edited by mpunsalan; Mar 17, 2011 at 01:22 PM.
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My mechanic said it was the ABS controller at over $1,000 but he won't guarantee that will fix it. I can't believe Mercedes can not fix this problem. Mercedes needs to pull their head out of the sand and design a warning light system that is more reliable. This problem appears to be pretty common with Mercedes. Shame on Mercedes Benz. I prefer to own vehicles that are serviceable. My next one may be something different.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
When I start car slowly, and get to ON position, I see ALL lights across the bottom... Crank the car- the lights go out.. and if I sit there in Park - they never come on. As soon as I drive (not brake, but actually shift and drive) they all three come on yellow. BRAKE LIGHTS WORK FINE BTW.

ETS ABS - Break light - all come on and odometer stops working...
A few of my numbers arent working on my digital board in the center either.... and when i engage cruise no light comes on.... I was thinking/hoping i just need a new cluster to fix this problem....
When i restart the car everything works fine....
When i first got the car the cruise didnt work and the ETS light was on, so i replaced the break switch which was recomended on this board and my cruise started working... but as i said no cruise light came on....
then a few days later this started happening...
I am hoping its just the cluster that is bad... Which should be an easy fix... I know my AC controller (ECU) is broken as well... and is being repaired on tuesday.
They did note on the work order that the ABS/ EPS module may need replacing. I just don't want to start throwing parts at it to fix.
Okay... who's got an answer? I saw on another thread that the dealer may need to modify one of the three wires to the ABS? Can anyone give any creedance to this statement?
As an aside, when I took the vehicle in (October 1st) about the ETS/BAS light coming on (even though they replaced the sensor in August), they replaced the relay and said they would order a new ETS/BAS sensor and replace at their cost. A week later when I went to have the sensor replaced, they said it was ok, but the computer indicated another sensor was malfunctioning (I need to have the name translated from Spanish) and needed to be replaced for $750. I told them to wait until my next trip. I'll let you what happens. Hopefully the replacement of the ABS pump relay fixes the problem.
P1105 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor In Control Module; P1220 Fuel Quantity Actuator (Y23/1); P1221 CAN Communication, ETC Or ETS Interrupted; P1222 IFI Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (R25/2); P1223 Fuel Rack Position Sensor (Y23/1/1); P1335 CKP Sensor (IFI); P1350 Injection Sensor Solenoid; P1351 Injection Sensor Circuit; P1352 Needle Lift Sensor; P1401 EGR Lifting Sender (B28/3); P1404 EGR Control; P1465 EPW Power; P1470 Pressure Control Flap Vacuum Transducer (Y31/2); P1475 Resonance Intake Line Switchover Valve (Y22/7); P1476 Resonance Intake Manifold Switchover Valve (Y22/6); P1480 Preglow Control; P1481 Glow Plug Failure; P1482 Preglow Control Module (N14/2); P1520 CruiseControl Switch (S40); P1610 Voltage Supply Missing Or Relay Module (K40); P1611 IFI Control Module (N3/7); P1612 IFI Control Module (N3/7) Voltage, Circuit 15; P1613 IFI Control Module (N3/7); P1614 IFI Control Module (N3/7) Voltage Or Fuel Metering Actuator (Y23/1K1) Or Fuel Rack Postion Sensor (Y23/1/1); P1615 IFI Control Module (N3/7) Supply Voltage; P1617 Control Module Fault Or Control Module Not Coded; P1622 Electrohydraulic Shut-Off Actuator (Y1/1); P1625 Check Engine MIL; P1630 Drive Authorization Signal; P1705 Starter Lock-Out/Backup Lamp Switch (S16/1); P1780 Modulation Pressure Switchover Valve (AT/CC) (Y3/4) Or Upshift Delay Switchover Valve (AT/CC) (Y3/5); P1781 Upshift Delay Switchover Valve (AT/CC) (Y3/5)
One of the things I did in September which really helped (but did not completely fix the problem) was to replace the ABS pump relay in the fuse box (at the suggestion of my earlier query). This is a relatively cheap replacement and can be done as one would change a fuse. After the dealer did this, my problems were significantly mitigated, although the BAS light would still occaisionally come on. I am going back in mid-November, and I am hoping not to have the earlier problems. I'll let you know what happens.
Dealer just called and said there are codes for all four of my wheel speed sensors. Do I have 4 wheel speed sensors? If I check Pelican Parts, they list only 2 for the front.
They are also thinking my ESP controller is toast. E-bay has one for $416 from a salvaged 2000 ML430. Ugh!
Dealer just called and said there are codes for all four of my wheel speed sensors. Do I have 4 wheel speed sensors? If I check Pelican Parts, they list only 2 for the front.
They are also thinking my ESP controller is toast. E-bay has one for $416 from a salvaged 2000 ML430. Ugh!



