M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

Locked out of ML270cdi 2005

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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 08:18 AM
  #1  
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mercedes Ml270cdi
Locked out of ML270cdi 2005

Mercedes ML270cdi 2005, doors won't open with remote or drivers' key. Battery flat I guess - haven't used the car for some time(garaged) How do I access the car? No manual key access on this model. Other than damage the car, is there a way to open the door locks/hood to change/charge the battery?
thanks cabell
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 03:45 AM
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There is access to the manual locks, but you do not know about it.

Using a pick or a small pocket screwdriver, remove the black plastic cap that covers the key cylinder at each door.
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Last edited by Maj. Dundee; Mar 4, 2014 at 06:06 AM.
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
There is access to the manual locks, but you do not know about it.

Using a pick or a small pocket screwdriver, remove the black plastic cap that covers the key cylinder at each door.
There's no plastic caps on any of the handles(solid plastic) on this model. The driver's door handle has - what you would think is a manual access key point - but still requires electrical power to operate( used if the remote access key doesn't work).
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 06:21 AM
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It is not on the door handle, it is directly next to it. Remove the plastic cap the covers the key hole.

Manual unlocking does not need electrical power.

If you have any further problem, post a photo of the door handle and I will show you.
Attached Thumbnails Locked out of ML270cdi 2005-2014-03-04_061639.jpg  
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 06:50 AM
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Here is a better look.
Attached Thumbnails Locked out of ML270cdi 2005-2014-03-04_064826.jpg  
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Here is a better look.
Can't get my z10 to upload pic of driver door lock to computer. What I can say is, the lock in your thumbnail is the same as mine, but did you prise off the plastic key cover or was that unscrewed from the inside of the door? Because I tried to remove as shown in your pic, but won't budge.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 12:58 AM
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You do not have to remove the lock as show in the photo. I posted this photo to show you where the the plastic cap is covering the lock cylinder.

Why is it that you cannot understand?
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
You do not have to remove the lock as show in the photo. I posted this photo to show you where the the plastic cap is covering the lock cylinder.

Why is it that you cannot understand?
To clarify - there is no plastic cap, I can see the lock. But the key doesn't open the driver's door - this is back to my initial problem. Read elsewhere, that bridging across the starter motor( access under the car) is probably the way to go. Thanks for the advice.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 06:57 AM
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This is what you said in your initial post..........No manual key access on this model.

That means that there was no lock. A total waste of time and effort.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
This is what you said in your initial post..........No manual key access on this model.

That means that there was no lock. A total waste of time and effort.
No, don't be so pedantic with the text. Once power was restored today, the driver's door lock works. So the lock requires some backup electrical power to operate, which means there cannot be any "manual" access without some residual power. The driver's door lock is there to be used, if the remote keys fail to work( remote key battery failure perhaps). Getting power connections onto the starter motor was the definitive answer. Thanks to everyone who offered advice, much appreciated.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by cabell
No, don't be so pedantic with the text. Once power was restored today, the driver's door lock works. So the lock requires some backup electrical power to operate, which means there cannot be any "manual" access without some residual power. The driver's door lock is there to be used, if the remote keys fail to work( remote key battery failure perhaps). Getting power connections onto the starter motor was the definitive answer. Thanks to everyone who offered advice, much appreciated.
Please, I would like to understand this further. Did the key turn in the door lock cylinder with a dead battery but the door mechanism did not unlock the door or did the door lock cylinder not turn (rotate) with a dead battery?

Mike
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike's ML
Please, I would like to understand this further. Did the key turn in the door lock cylinder with a dead battery but the door mechanism did not unlock the door or did the door lock cylinder not turn (rotate) with a dead battery?

Mike
The key turned in the door lock cylinder with a dead battery but the door mechanism did not unlock the door.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 05:02 PM
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Mike I would also very much like to undestand because the OP doesnt want to understand that opening the door with the actual key has nothing to do with battery or power. All one has to do is remove the round lock cover & stick the key in & turn the key.............

Just read your reply to Mike. It means there is something wrong with your door mechanism.
Have you tried opening the door with the key when you have power?

Last edited by art_arev; Mar 5, 2014 at 05:04 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by art_arev
Mike I would also very much like to undestand because the OP doesnt want to understand that opening the door with the actual key has nothing to do with battery or power. All one has to do is remove the round lock cover & stick the key in & turn the key.............

Just read your reply to Mike. It means there is something wrong with your door mechanism.
Have you tried opening the door with the key when you have power?
I was confused since there were a few inconsistencies in the OP's comments. The statement, "There's no plastic caps on any of the handles(solid plastic) on this model" and "No manual key access on this model" was, I thought, clear to me, meaning that the drivers door had NO Key lock cylinder. I agree with you in that all I have read in my two ML manuals leads me also to believe the door locks have nothing to do with battery power but is strictly mechanical. If the key operated an electronic lock release then at some point in the key's rotation the lock plunger / lock pin would abruptly jump up. It doesn't. The lock pin / plunger rises inside the vehicle in concert with the mechanical rotation of the key.
The OP appears to have a defective lock assembly but doesn't want to concede that fact.
Mike
[EDIT] The key on my North American, Left Hand drive vehicle needs to be rotated counter (anti) clockwise to unlock the door. Only the drivers door is unlocked and no indication of any electrical circuits being activated, including unlocking any other doors. Rotating the lock cylinder clockwise, when in the Locked position, does Nothing however rotating the lock cylinder clockwise, when in the unlocked position, will Lock the drivers door.
Due to the Coriolis effect down under and that your steering wheel is on the wrong side of the vehicle, these rotations may be opposite of the northern hemisphere.
[Disclaimer--Please take my last sentence as my attempt at humor. I am often misunderstood]

Last edited by Mike's ML; Mar 5, 2014 at 07:46 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 06:34 PM
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