ML320 blowing warm aircon?
I'm really enjoying all the grief this car is giving me ever since I bought it.
Today I'm adding another problem to my long list.
As its summer down here in Australia, and it gets extremely hot, aircon is very important to me. Air con has been working fine since I bought the car, not as ice cold as others I've owned but definitely refrigerated and functioning.
All of a sudden, yesterday, when I'm driving home, I turn on the aircon and push the dial all the way to cold, and wait for it to cool. Waiting, waiting, waiting... Nothing, just warm air.
Toggle the AC button a few times, nope, still warm. Switch the HVAC dial to hot, yep, definitely hot, back to cold, nope, still very very warm. So my first thought is the compressor is dead, I sit at the lights and turn the AC switch off, revs change, then on, I can hear the fan kick in and the revs drop, so seems to be working fine.
Take it home and pop the bonnet, check all fuses, they're all ok, the compressor is engaging fine, the pipes are ice cold, so it's not an issue of lost gas or siezed compressor, but the aircon is blowing almost hot air?
I've been reading threads and the likely culprit seems to be the air blend motor, but I have an older W163 with manual climate control, not proper climate control (I have dials).
My understanding of a bad air blend motor is the temperature won't change regardless of where you turn the dial, but mine is either warm, or if I switch it to hot, it's definitely hot.
Is it definitely my air blend motor? Not a fan of taking things apart only to find out they're ok.
Thanks!
Here is how to check both (you need a DVOM).
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...ml#post6235472
I'm unsure what it means. May have had the probes in reverse, but:
@ full hot - 0.6 volts
@ middle - 6.4 volts approx
@ full cold - 6.4-6.8 volts approx
Video is in link above
Any help is appreciated! Thanks
Last edited by ML320VIC; Dec 21, 2014 at 12:28 AM.
I'm unsure what it means. May have had the probes in reverse, but:
@ full hot - 0.6 volts
@ middle - 6.4 volts approx
@ full cold - 6.4-6.8 volts approx
Video is in link above
Any help is appreciated! Thanks
If you conducted the test correctly, then you need N19.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-Air-Control-ECU-2002-2003-/251013631295?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a71940d3f&vxp=mtr
In saying that, I was under the impression that when these things die, they die completely and you lose all control over any heat or cold, but I still am able to control the amount of heat, I just have no cold air at all. Then again it shouldn't be the blend motor slipping because again, I have some control over the amount of heat..
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And now that you have been supplied with everything you need, you now become arrogant and I become thankless.
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You're not going to get a thankyou now. I understand you may be having a bad day but no need to turn into a keyboard warrior.
For the record, that supplier won't ship to Australia, I have to buy the part brand new anyway.
If it concerns you so much, don't reply again. Jesus Christ.
You're not going to get a thankyou now. I understand you may be having a bad day but no need to turn into a keyboard warrior.
For the record, that supplier won't ship to Australia, I have to buy the part brand new anyway.
If it concerns you so much, don't reply again. Jesus Christ.
For your record, how is anyone supposed to know where you live? When you joined this forum to get FREE help you never included your location which was asked. But I guess you missed that line because you were too anxious to get that FREE help.
Don't worry mate, you'll never receive another ounce of help from me ever again, Attitude counts and you have a lot of it.
and for the sake of again proving that you have not read what I've written and made yourself look like a big a**hole again:
If you're looking for thanks and praise, jump off the computer, turn it off, leave your house, and go do some charitable work, except don't crack it at those in need when they don't scratch up to your standards of gratefulness, because it makes you look an idiot.
I researched the problem, and although DIY kits are available overseas, in Australia R134 can only be purchased by licensed refrigeration technicians.
In other words, you need to visit an automotive A/C specialist or your MB dealer. I went with my MB dealer who fixed it for $297 including leak test and free loaner car for the day. (I thought the cost was quite reasonable.)
I researched the problem, and although DIY kits are available overseas, in Australia R134 can only be purchased by licensed refrigeration technicians.
In other words, you need to visit an automotive A/C specialist or your MB dealer. I went with my MB dealer who fixed it for $297 including leak test and free loaner car for the day. (I thought the cost was quite reasonable.)
I've ordered the N19 part, but I'll take it to a mate who does R134 regasses this weekend and see if that helps too.
Is it possible for it to be ice cold one day and warm the next?
Thanks
After a re-gas, you might be amazed at how cold it can get.
$250 on a regas and had to have all the O rings changed on the TX valve. - didn't work.
Mechanic is at a loss. Doesn't think its the blend air door, because when you turn it to full hot, it's really hot. When you turn it to cold, it's about 20C. You can also hear the sound of the fan change and sound deeper on the last 2 clicks of cold, but the air is hotter than 20C if outside is hotter.
He did find that clamping the heater core coolant hoses makes the aircon blow very very cold though, which does sound like the blend air door. But I should have 0 control over temperature.
I'm lost and I'm sick of wasting money on this poor excuse for a car.
You should have started with the blend air motor actuator, mate. This the very place to start when any problems with hot /cold air problems in these older MLs and practically no-brainer. It can generate any number of symptoms.
My ML was acting exactly the same.
The air blend motors tend to fail mechanically. For example, one of the plastic gears inside is loosing teeth. Mine lost three and wasn't completely closing the hot flap, leaving me with lukewarm air, exactly as yours does.
It was also struggling to go back because of missing teeth, but sometimes it managed to move the flap back to hot position. Result: I had warm air instead of cold and randomly available heat.
$150 for the part at the dealer, 3 hours of work (really easy to remove the top part of dashboard) and my ML is perfectly fine again.
You didn't even try WITHOUT air conditioning on, did you? this would have eliminated the whole AC thing.


