I'm new to this thread but I like what I've seen and read so far...

Is there a manual that I can buy to show how to replace the brakes on my 1999 ML320? I've done brake jobs on my VW's but none have ABS. Do I need special tools? Any recommendations on discs/pads brand and upgrades is most appreciated.
Dealer wants to charge like $350+ and I need to save some money now.

Thanks!

 

I recently did both teh front and rear pads with no particular difficulty. For the front you will need a large allen key or hex socket (estimate either 6 or 8mm). Otherwise if you have done pads on other vehicles - these did not seem at all difficult.

I used EBC on the front and ANOther severe duty brand which I both ordered from tirerack. After 2 months there is still no brake dust - . Braking does require a little extra pressure but nothing significant.

Hope this helps.

 

here that Pete wrote, but its for a 430. Hopefully it will help.

 

There no special tools required for the brake job. What you would need is a T40 Torx wrench for the front and 1/2 in. socket for the rear. A large C-clamp would help if you don't have brake caliper tools.
Hope this helps.

 

i purchased some brembos from these guys http://www.brakeworld.com./ and was very happy w/ the quality

 

I just did the front brakes on my 2000 ML320. It is not difficult, but it helps to have some experience with doing disc brakes before.

I didn't bother replacing or turning my rotors so I didn't bother removing them - they looked nearly perfect to me, so I didn't bother. I'm of the belief that you shouldn't turn them unless they're obviously scored. I'll probably just replace them next time.

None of the DIY info on the net matched what my brakes looked like. Here is the basic step-by-step:

1. Jack car up, remove wheel. Do passenger side first since it doesn't have the wear sensor.

2. Remove two Torx bolts on the back side of the caliper. They're in plastic sleeves so the caliper can slide on the pins. Just leave sleeves in place and back bolts out until they've disengaged from the hub.

3. Compress caliper piston enough to get caliper off. I used a hand wordworking setup clamp and then rocked the caliper some to get it to come off - you just need the piston to retract enough to get some room for the pads to get over the ridge at the edge of the disc. I'd loosen your brake reservoir cap to allow air to escape. It will disengage from the front side first and then rotate as it comes off. It will take some firm force and a bit of cussing.

4. Remove pads. The non-piston side comes off first - it helps to pry the two retaining clips on the front a bit. The back side just pops out from the piston.

Putting it back together is basically the reverse. I used some disc quiet stuff on the back side of the pads and some caliper grease on the pins, but I don't know if it is critical. It appears the caliper bolts also had some loctite on them, so I cleaned up the pins and re-loctited.

I paid $75 for the pads - the dealer wanted $600.

Have fun.

- Mark

 

Thanks for all the replys and the link to that really good site! It's very similar to replacing most smaller cars front vented brakes.

One other question remains is do you normally wait till the ABS light on the dash to come on before replacing pads. Is that warning light suppose to indicate the time to change the pads or is that the 'what the hell have you been waiting for' indication?

Thanks again for all the replies!

 

Don't forget to undo the brake fluid cap first!!!