M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

Ml320 W163 2001 fuse F41 recirculation pump, e-box fan...

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Old Jul 3, 2019 | 02:21 AM
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ML 320 2001
Ml320 W163 2001 fuse F41 recirculation pump, e-box fan...

Hey guys,

Does anybody have a clue why my fuse F41 10A recirculation pump, heater/E-box fan keeps on blowing?
And where is the E-box fan situated?

Cheers, Den
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Old Jul 3, 2019 | 11:23 AM
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Fuse #41 is supposed to be a 25 amp fuse.

Is you air conditioning working properly?

What is your full vin#?
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Old Jul 3, 2019 | 12:35 PM
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On the inside of the cover of the fusebox it says it needs a 10A fuse (see pic).

The air-condition works great (heat and cold).

VIN number is:

WDC1631542A243444




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Old Jul 4, 2019 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Fuse #41 is supposed to be a 25 amp fuse.

Is you air conditioning working properly?

What is your full vin#?
Would it be very bad if I put a 25A fuse instead of the 10A recommended?
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Old Jul 5, 2019 | 04:54 AM
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Do not put in a 25 amp fuse. Let me check further.
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Old Jul 5, 2019 | 06:02 AM
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M/B has created a problem with their wiring diagrams. In one diag. they show fuse #41 as 10 amp and the other one as 25 amp. So leave it as a 10 amp.
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Old Jul 5, 2019 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee





M/B has created a problem with their wiring diagrams. In one diag. they show fuse #41 as 10 amp and the other one as 25 amp. So leave it as a 10 amp.
OK, no worries, I'm gonna leave the 10A,i won't change for a 25A. Thanks!
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Old Jul 5, 2019 | 06:35 AM
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The Coolant Cir. Pump is located in the area below the battery and is controlled by relay #19 and fuse #41

With the, key off and with a new 10 amp fuse in place, remove the elec. connector at the bottom of the pump. Turn the key to the on position and with a DVOM, check the WHITE wire for 12v and the BROWN wire for NEGATIVE.

If both wires check out, reinstall the connector and then check fuse #41 and see if it is blown. If so, the pump is shorted and must be replaced.

Post results for further instructions.
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Old Jul 6, 2019 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee



The Coolant Cir. Pump is located in the area below the battery and is controlled by relay #19 and fuse #41

With the, key off and with a new 10 amp fuse in place, remove the elec. connector at the bottom of the pump. Turn the key to the on position and with a DVOM, check the WHITE wire for 12v and the BROWN wire for NEGATIVE.

If both wires check out, reinstall the connector and then check fuse #41 and see if it is blown. If so, the pump is shorted and must be replaced.

Post results for further instructions.
Hi Maj.,

I checked the wires, they are good (12V and negative). Reinstalled the connector, checked the fuse and it was not blown. Started the car, checked fuse again and it's still not blown. I didn't drive with it yet, but I bet it would blow again...

Cheers, Den
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Old Jul 7, 2019 | 06:30 AM
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Start the eng. and put your hand to the pump, do you feel motor working?
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Old Jul 7, 2019 | 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Start the eng. and put your hand to the pump, do you feel motor working?
It's a bit hard to say if it's the pump really working or if it's the vibrations of the engin that I feel...
Though, the two big tubes get warm after the engin has been idling for 5 minutes...

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Old Jul 7, 2019 | 07:20 AM
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Then it is working.
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Old Jul 7, 2019 | 07:33 AM
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Cool !

And the fact of only starting up the engin doesn't blow the fuse. What could it be then that it blows when driving? The E-box that starts up at one point and is fawlty? Because the heater works...

​​​​
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Old Jul 8, 2019 | 06:37 AM
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The e-box fan and the Cir. Pump are on the same circuit. See my next post for instructions.

Does your A/C controls look like this?

Last edited by Maj. Dundee; Jul 8, 2019 at 07:40 AM.
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Old Jul 8, 2019 | 06:44 AM
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No, miner's more simple then that. Just a push button for the A/C. It's a 2001 model. I'm at work now, can't make a pic and attach it. I can do it later on if you want. I hope the 2001 year helps for now...

(The pic that I send before in this thread says that that fuse is for recirculation pump, heater and E-box fan)
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Old Jul 8, 2019 | 07:38 AM
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OK,I failed to read the diag. correctly. Both the ebox fan and and the Cir. Pump run on the same circuit.

Remove both covers to the fuse box and then the 3 additional screws. Then pull up the fuse/relay module out of the box.

Locate the e-Box fan at the bottom, turn the key to the on position and with your hand feel to see if it is running.
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Old Jul 8, 2019 | 09:00 AM
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If it's this black part with numbers 29 and 088 written in white on it which is hidden underneath the 2nd cover of the fusebox, then it doesn't seem to work by putting the key to on position, nor when I start the car. The fuse 10A is still ok so far...
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Old Jul 8, 2019 | 10:21 AM
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That fan is supposed to run as soon as you turn the key on.

While the key is still on, remove the two wire connector and check the WHITE wire for 12v and the BROWN wire for ground.
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Old Jul 8, 2019 | 08:06 PM
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Ok, I checked the 2 wires. White is 12V and brown is grounded. The fuse is still ok.
When the e-box fan is on, does it make a significant sound and/or wind that blows. If it's supposed to, then it doesn't work
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Old Jul 9, 2019 | 03:57 AM
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It's a silent fan but you should be able to feel if it is working.
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Old Jul 9, 2019 | 03:59 AM
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O ok, because I had a feeling that it worked, but wasn't sure. I'll try again and update asap.
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Old Jul 9, 2019 | 06:44 AM
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I felt underneath the fuse/relay box, where the tube with 3 holes of the fan ends, and I did feel ventilation, but it was extremely little...almost like nearly no wind... I hope that's the way it should be...
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Old Jul 9, 2019 | 08:14 AM
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Pull the motor out of the tube and see how it operates.
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Old Jul 9, 2019 | 08:26 AM
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The fan is supposed to rotate at 4,500 RPMs. It might be tired and needs replacing.

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w16...ml#post7160345

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Igarashi-12...2nr4RW6U7guHBg
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Old Jul 10, 2019 | 02:25 AM
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I took out the fan and it worked actually, cleaned it up a bit as it was slightly dusty, nothing bad. Plugged it back in and when it was upside down it worked a lot better as in its original position. Also it kept on blowing after taking out the key of the contact, maybe a security to cool down after haven driven the truck?
But all seems to work better now. Big thumbs up and thank you (again) Maj. Dundee...!
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