M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

No start, no crank. Good battery and starter. Please help

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Old Aug 19, 2020 | 08:01 PM
  #1  
norcalcasey's Avatar
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2006 C55, 2004 ML350
No start, no crank. Good battery and starter. Please help

Hey all, I have a 2004 ML350 that I got as a project car. Needed a crank pulley/harmonic balancer. Got all that in yesterday and all was well. Took it for run into town and everything was tip top.

When I got in it this morning, it wouldnt even attempt to turn over. All dash lights turn on like normal, but all I get is one big click noise from somewhere in the engine bay.

I had the battery on a charger all night but still took it in to get load tested, and it tested good. So i bought a new starter and threw that in, but the problem remains.

I did swap key shell/case plastic as well the other day, but it went smoothly. The remote still works so I dont think its the key/ transponder.(I only have one)

I should also mention that on the drive the 3 amigos showed up (ABS, ESP, BAS) intermittently.

Any ideas? Ive searched and searched but havent come away with anything conclusive.

Thanks everyone, Casey

Last edited by norcalcasey; Aug 20, 2020 at 07:38 PM.
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Old Aug 20, 2020 | 07:52 AM
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Maj. Dundee's Avatar
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Did the eng.start before you replaced the balancer?

Did you torque the bolt to 148 Ft. lbs?

Last edited by Maj. Dundee; Aug 20, 2020 at 07:56 AM.
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Old Aug 20, 2020 | 09:54 AM
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From: Bloomington IL
2006 C55, 2004 ML350
The engine did start fine even without the balancer/belt
When i got it, the balancer had already been removed.
The previous owner didnt have the right tool to torque it properly, so I ordered a new pulley from FCP euro and the holder tool.
But even so it would always start right up on battery power alone.
Ive probably started it 20 times with no issues at all before yesterday. Even drove it around for 30 minutes in town.

Also should mention I do get the single led flash next to radio. When i use just the key spade without the fob, it get "start error" on the dash, so it seems to be recognizing the key.

Torqued the bolt down to 147 ft/lbs plus 90 degrees.

Thanks for the reply.

Last edited by norcalcasey; Aug 20, 2020 at 01:56 PM.
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Old Aug 20, 2020 | 03:23 PM
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Did you check for codes in the ECM?

Post your full vin#.

Last edited by Maj. Dundee; Aug 20, 2020 at 03:28 PM.
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Old Aug 20, 2020 | 04:04 PM
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From: Bloomington IL
2006 C55, 2004 ML350
VIN 4JGAB57E64A497435

Havent scanned for codes yet. Bought an icarsoft i980 which should show up on saturday.
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Old Aug 20, 2020 | 05:08 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by norcalcasey
VIN 4JGAB57E64A497435

Havent scanned for codes yet. Bought an icarsoft i980 which should show up on saturday.
Will wait for the code/s.
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Old Aug 20, 2020 | 07:27 PM
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Maj. Dundee,

Thanks for being willing to help! I tried fashioning up a jumper wire from pin 87 to 30 in the k8 relay slot in the fuse box, and all i got was the same big click from the starter.

It clicked right when i plugged in the jumper, even without the key in, is that supposed to happen?

Also while doing up the starter I found this wire unplugged. Any idea what it might be?

https://imgur.com/a/z5qvP6g

Thanks again, Casey
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Old Aug 21, 2020 | 06:07 AM
  #8  
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Case that wire is probably for a feature you do not have. But if you look all the sides of the black connector with a magnifying glass there will be a part #, i.e. xxx xxx xx xx.

If you find a number, then you will have to post your full vin#, with no spaces.

As for your starter, I would suggest removing it and bench test it.

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Old Aug 21, 2020 | 10:19 AM
  #9  
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4JGAB57E64A497435 is the VIN.

Starter was bench tested and passed.
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Old Aug 21, 2020 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by norcalcasey
4JGAB57E64A497435 is the VIN.

Starter was bench tested and passed.
Did you inspect the wire connector for a part #?
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Old Aug 21, 2020 | 02:20 PM
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2006 C55, 2004 ML350
Unfortunately there is no part number on the connecter, it says "Delphi" and "DEP" on it, but thats all. From the limited radius it could be used to plug in to, i have no idea where it goes.

GOOD NEWS! I figured out my no start - the positive connection from the battery to the alternator was loose! Looks like the alternator was recently replaced, so whoever put it in didnt use locktite.

I replaced all my ground cables today from the battery to the body and the frame to the motor, and while I was in there I jiggled all cables and saw this one was loose.

Maj. Dundee - I apprecaite all of the help. Let me know where you want it and I have a 20$ e gift card to anywhere you want or your charity of choice - PM what you decide.

Im sure I'll need your help in the future.

Best, Casey
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Old Aug 22, 2020 | 08:41 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by norcalcasey
Unfortunately there is no part number on the connecter, it says "Delphi" and "DEP" on it, but thats all. From the limited radius it could be used to plug in to, i have no idea where it goes.

GOOD NEWS! I figured out my no start - the positive connection from the battery to the alternator was loose! Looks like the alternator was recently replaced, so whoever put it in didnt use locktite.

I replaced all my ground cables today from the battery to the body and the frame to the motor, and while I was in there I jiggled all cables and saw this one was loose.

Maj. Dundee - I apprecaite all of the help. Let me know where you want it and I have a 20$ e gift card to anywhere you want or your charity of choice - PM what you decide.

Im sure I'll need your help in the future.

Best, Casey
Glad you found your problem.

And there is no need to send me anything as I will help you with any problem without recompense.
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 09:52 AM
  #13  
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I started my ML, moved it out of the garage to get to some equipment, and it downpoured for about an hour. Now it wont crank again!! So frustrating.

When jumpking K8, I just get a click from the starter. The connections on the alternator/starter are tight, and free of corrosion. I had the starter bench tested a few weeks ago and it was good, so I doubt it went out in the last few weeks of normal operation.

The drain under the windshield wiper cowl was plugged, so the area around the battery was quite wet.

What else could the rain have triggered?

Thanks, Casey
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 10:35 AM
  #14  
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See if water entered the right side kick panel fuse box.
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 11:03 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
See if water entered the right side kick panel fuse box.
Just checked and its dry. Surrounding carpet is dry too.

Thanks for the idea.

Last edited by norcalcasey; Sep 11, 2020 at 11:08 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 12:49 PM
  #16  
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Gain access to the starter and with a test light (preferred) or DVOM test the Violet wire for 12+ volts while a helper tries to start the eng.

Also rework the connection with the alternator.


Last edited by Maj. Dundee; Sep 11, 2020 at 12:55 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 07:00 PM
  #17  
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Maj. Dundee,

Thanks again for your advice! The test light was not showing anything at the positive connector on the starter, but was when I put it directly on the wire. When I pulled back the wire insulation, it was very corroded. I cut it out and re-crimped it and it fired right up! Not sure if the weather had anything to do with it after all. Perhaps I bumped it when changing out my ABS sensor.

Job done! Thank you
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 03:08 PM
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gl550
Hi, I just had my 2011 GL550 have very similar issues. code came back as fuel pump or relays, then 40 codes showed up...

It turned out to be a loose cable fitting into the fuse box. The intermittent connections allowed the car to run great, then be a paper weight.
So good for me, and you. Loose cables don't cost me $75k for a new rig...which I was about to buy tomorrow.... whew.
thanks,
terry
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