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Automatic transmission shifter module water intrusion
Some water rain faced to my automatic transmission shifter module and the shifter stacked in parking shift. Then I used the emergency button below “D” shifter and when I try to drive it didn’t change to the next gear to speed up. Any suggestions to solve this please?
If water got into the electronics of your shifter, by the symptoms you describe, you will need to replace your shifter. Do you have a code reader that you can use to scan your vehicle?
I sure wish I new what goes into fixing a shifter as I have 3 of them in my garage.
If water got into the electronics of your shifter, by the symptoms you describe, you will need to replace your shifter. Do you have a code reader that you can use to scan your vehicle?
I sure wish I new what goes into fixing a shifter as I have 3 of them in my garage.
If water got into the electronics of your shifter, by the symptoms you describe, you will need to replace your shifter. Do you have a code reader that you can use to scan your vehicle?
I sure wish I new what goes into fixing a shifter as I have 3 of them in my garage.
2000 ML 320/95 Ford F150 4x4/Harley Davidson 03 FLHRCI in vivid black
Originally Posted by Suraphel
ouchie,,, I have recently had leaks at sunroof drains and cowel drains. Both of those leaked down the A pillar sides. Last week i noticed a small drop from the overhead light down to that area. That was after yl was at the self serve carwash
Try to track that down before going to dealer, junk yard or ebay. No point in replacing equipment and still dodging a water issue. You night try a good spray down with MAF SENSOR cleaner, or electrical parts cleaner then hair dryer or sit in the car with the A/C on for several minutes.
I echo Dfixit1's comment.The design of the sunroof A pillar drains are prone to plug up above the grommet that feeds the drain tube to the exterior of the vehicle. It could be that the entire drain tube is compromised and you have a small leak from the overhead console that then leaks onto your shift console. I would first understand just where the leak originates and go from there.
As for clearing the codes, you will need an OBD2 reader. There are lots of suggestions over in the Diagnostic forum on this website. I personally use an inexpensive bi-directional Bluetooth scanner from YOUCANIC as it supports all my vehicles BMW, RAM MBenz. I am happy with the extra functionality afforded by the relatively low incremental cost compared to cheaper check engine light scanners and updates are free for 3 years. I am not trying to sell anything, just letting you know that this tools so far has allowed me to get into every module in my W163 allowing a precise diagnosis at minimal cost.
Like you I thought of fixing the electrical damage to my shifter. I personally couldn't find any visual evidence of component or board damage nor could I find anyone willing to trace the electronics. I did try using electronics cleaner and mild heat to evaporate the cleaner but that proved fruitless. Not to discourage you though - good luck if you go this route! If you find something, please share.
2000 ML 320/95 Ford F150 4x4/Harley Davidson 03 FLHRCI in vivid black
Originally Posted by Suraphel
Also would you please kindly tell me on how to clear the codes? Thanks
some codes will clear if you disconnect the battery {-} for a few minutes. Otherwise you will need to find a good Indie shop that works on MB, Buy a reasonable code reader, that may not get all of them but thats a good start and I'll bet you money that you will use the code reader/clearer as time goes by.
2000 ML 320/95 Ford F150 4x4/Harley Davidson 03 FLHRCI in vivid black
Originally Posted by Dfixit1
ouchie,,, I have recently had leaks at sunroof drains and cowel drains. Both of those leaked down the A pillar sides. Last week i noticed a small drop from the overhead light down to that area. That was after yl was at the self serve carwash
Try to track that down before going to dealer, junk yard or ebay. No point in replacing equipment and still dodging a water issue. You night try a good spray down with MAF SENSOR cleaner, or electrical parts cleaner then hair dryer or sit in the car with the A/C on for several minutes.
That board and inside caselook poo-poed. It might be best to try and start with some cleaner. The main chip looks like all the corrosion build up might be a good place to start.
some codes will clear if you disconnect the battery {-} for a few minutes. Otherwise you will need to find a good Indie shop that works on MB, Buy a reasonable code reader, that may not get all of them but thats a good start and I'll bet you money that you will use the code reader/clearer as time goes by.
I disassemble the circuit board and try to clean and check every components. Then I am thinking of clearing the codes by removing -ve terminal of the battery. I will update you the final result.
2000 ML 320/95 Ford F150 4x4/Harley Davidson 03 FLHRCI in vivid black
Originally Posted by Suraphel
I disassemble the circuit board and try to clean and check every components. Then I am thinking of clearing the codes by removing -ve terminal of the battery. I will update you the final result.
Wow, Looks really nice, It may survive. Clearing codes with neg. battery cable removed, MAY clear some codes. BE SURE that cable is off the battery and key not in the ignation while you are hooking it back up. Fingers crossed for your good outcome with that board and system. If after putting all that back together you {could} still have codes. If at that point you do still codes try to find a local shop, not dealer service that has the Star Scan that will save a bunch in diagnostic costs.
Good Luck,, keep us posted.
Wow, Looks really nice, It may survive. Clearing codes with neg. battery cable removed, MAY clear some codes. BE SURE that cable is off the battery and key not in the ignation while you are hooking it back up. Fingers crossed for your good outcome with that board and system. If after putting all that back together you {could} still have codes. If at that point you do still codes try to find a local shop, not dealer service that has the Star Scan that will save a bunch in diagnostic costs.
Good Luck,, keep us posted.
not lucky still.
I disconnected the -ve terminal of the battery and tried, the problem still exists. I am planning to visit local shops with star scan. Although the availability of star scan is rare, let me try. If you have any other suggestions, kindly let me know.
An indie shop here will charge about US $100-$150 for a scan while a dealer with the Star diagnostics will charge double that. Even after a scan the issue remains that the electronics on your shift module are dead and likely you will need a new module. You could pickup a code reader that will scan for faults for less than and indie shop and put the money saved toward a new shift module.
You did a great job of cleaning it up. Hard to tell from the pics but do you see any discoloration /cracking at any of the solder points?
An indie shop here will charge about US $100-$150 for a scan while a dealer with the Star diagnostics will charge double that. Even after a scan the issue remains that the electronics on your shift module are dead and likely you will need a new module. You could pickup a code reader that will scan for faults for less than and indie shop and put the money saved toward a new shift module.
You did a great job of cleaning it up. Hard to tell from the pics but do you see any discoloration /cracking at any of the solder points?
hello,
there is positive hope today. I got to electrician to solder some resistors on the circuit board and changed a 563 resistor (indicated in red circle) with a new one and I assembled. Then the problem “stuck in P” is resolved. (This is good progress). But the problems of shift change to speed up is not solved. Reverse shift lamp isn’t working. Shift display on the dashboard is not showing.
So I planned to check and change other resistors. If you have any suggestions, please let me know.
There appears to be an area of discoloration that involves that resistor. Perhaps have your electronics guy check the circuitry along the entire length of the discoloration. Good luck, it sounds like you are making progress.
2000 ML 320/95 Ford F150 4x4/Harley Davidson 03 FLHRCI in vivid black
Originally Posted by Suraphel
hello,
there is positive hope today. I got to electrician to solder some resistors on the circuit board and changed a 563 resistor (indicated in red circle) with a new one and I assembled. Then the problem “stuck in P” is resolved. (This is good progress). But the problems of shift change to speed up is not solved. Reverse shift lamp isn’t working. Shift display on the dashboard is not showing.
So I planned to check and change other resistors. If you have any suggestions, please let me know.
I recently had to pull the PCM on my 95 ford f150. 3 bad capicators. In that processs I learned there is used whats called { silicone conformal coating spray}. that coats the entire circuit board to prevent moistuer from corroding and shorting all the little circuit points. My PCM is slid into the firewall from the engine side and even though not completely exposed to the elements it did get moisture and condensate residue build up on the capicators and connections. Talk with you guy that did the repairs and see what he says about using that after ya'll are fairly sure that the ele. work is complete.
I have and OBD2 scanner but its older but did pick up codes for engine misfies but does not get deep into the coding for the trandmision. Most any auto shop woud have something like that. Most auto parts stores have those 45-75 bucks. Keep pecking away at what you are doing, You might get lucky..
Today, I faced another scenario, the car is not going back to reverse or park position from Neutral and its also stuck in first gear (no speed up). Then I deeply check each components of the circuit board and everything is working well. So I concluded that not all codes are cleared even if I disconnect -ve terminal. Any suggestions?
Yes! The issue solved and it works successfully. After changing the damaged resistor, clearing some codes by removing -ve terminal of the battery and using a diagnosing scanner removing stored fault codes.
In conclusion of this kind of problem, I suggest the following to other members to be helpful:
1. If your module is affected by water intrusion, it is better take a photo of the module at the beginning. This helps you to identify the affected electrical component.
2. Clean the module and Try to replace the affected element.
3. Clearing some codes by removing -ve terminal is partial solution. So I also recommend going to code scanner.
4. If you have time, I recommend to check the components of the module by electricians , rather than buying the whole shifter.
thanks
2000 ML 320/95 Ford F150 4x4/Harley Davidson 03 FLHRCI in vivid black
Originally Posted by Suraphel
Yes! The issue solved and it works successfully. After changing the damaged resistor, clearing some codes by removing -ve terminal of the battery and using a diagnosing scanner removing stored fault codes.
In conclusion of this kind of problem, I suggest the following to other members to be helpful:
1. If your module is affected by water intrusion, it is better take a photo of the module at the beginning. This helps you to identify the affected electrical component.
2. Clean the module and Try to replace the affected element.
3. Clearing some codes by removing -ve terminal is partial solution. So I also recommend going to code scanner.
4. If you have time, I recommend to check the components of the module by electricians , rather than buying the whole shifter.
thanks
Persistance {My Friend} , Glad to hear you {Got-er-Done}
I also have the same problem... Diargnostics wrote a few faults - P0600, P0705, P0720. Please where can i found the drain holes at the fron windshield ?
The sunroof drain holes on the w163 are located each side of the sunroof at the front. Water drains from these holes and through a tube that runs down the A pillars. Just above the footwell, the tube makes a 90 degree bend to drain the water outside the vehicle. Its at this 90 degree bend where most dirt and material accumulate and plug the drain tube. you might have to take the fender off (easy job) to access the tube from the outside. There are plenty of videos online showing you how to do it. It is not a difficult job.
2000 ML 320/95 Ford F150 4x4/Harley Davidson 03 FLHRCI in vivid black
Originally Posted by Nezmar
My car doesnt have a roof window. after drying out car worked just fine.
with no sun roof a likely water intrusion could be the cowl drains. You can remove the windshield wipers then remove the cowl cover. The drains are located on each side under the cowl.Funky looking rubber fixtures that allow water to drain down through the inner fender and out the bottom near where the lower fender meets the rocker panel and the foward part of the door. You can use a water hose on 1/2 voulme and wet the top of the windshield each side and if no, or little water is running out at that area then at least some water is running down the interior of the inner structure of the fire wall and down into the cabin, usually near the kick panel on one or each side with wet carpet being a good give away.
I had to remove mine, clean them, dry them then lube wit silicon spray lube. Dry them, then while replacing them use some silicon caulk/sealant under the catch area so no water can seap under the drains and intrude in to the cabin. Without the sunroof its hard to see exactly where your water intrusion is origiating from.
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