ML550 Basics: DIY Oil & Filter Change
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ML550 Basics: DIY Oil & Filter Change
Not sure how many DIYer’s are here in this forum, but this past weekend, I did a basic oil and filter change on the ML550 and thought I’d share the process in case anyone needs a nudge to try an easy DIY project and save some bucks.
In anticipation of doing the work, I picked up an oil filter element, part no. 0001802609, an oil pan drain screw, part no. 1119970330, an oil drain sealing ring, part no. 007603014106, and 10 qts. of Mobil 1 in 0-40W (the change actually requires 9.5 quarts). You should change the oil when the engine is warm so the old oil more completely drains out.
So you lift the hood and can’t really see much:
The engine cover is easy to remove. Just lift up at its rear corners, and the lift up the front; it will pop right off. With cover removed, it’s easy to see both the oil filler tube, and the oil filter housing. These are indicated in this photo:
The first step is to allow the oil in the oil filter housing to drain down into the engine block. This is accomplished by attaching the correct size oil filter housing wrench on the cover of housing and loosening enough to allow air to replace the oil that drains into the block. Although my wrench is an AST tool, you can buy the correct size wrench at most auto parts stores. The next photo shows the wrench on the oil filter housing:
Once the oil has drained out of the oil filter housing, complete removal of the filter assembly. At this point, I also remove the oil filler cap. Having both of these open facilitates the oil draining out of the block.
The next step is to remove the shielding engine tray underneath the engine compartment. It is secured by nine 10mm headed bolts and two plastic rivets in the front. All of these fasteners can be reused, so be careful when pulling out the rivets that secure the tray to the front bumper cover.
With the tray removed, the oil pan drain plug is exposed:
The drain plug has a 13mm head. Once it’s removed, the oil drains and drains and drains:
I’m never in a rush when changing the oil, so I let it drain until almost all of the drips have stopped. Once that happens, you’re ready to reinstall the engine drain plug. As noted above, I had purchased a new one, but discovered it’s not needed since it doesn’t have a thread sealer on it like my other vehicle’s oil drain screws do. All you need is the new seal noted above. Here’s a shot of the old screw and the new one (not required).
Again, all you need is the new seal:
Torque the drain screw to 30 Nm and it’s good to go. At this stage, it’s also easiest to reinstall the engine tray cover. Position it into place and start a couple of the fasteners. I discovered the shop had neglected to correctly reinstall the two rivets – they were there, but had never been used to secure the front of the tray. Here’s therir location:
The rivets take additional time to reinstall, and I’m sure that’s why the dealership mechanic skipped reinstalling them, but they prevent excess air flow from potentially entering on the top of the tray and creating excess wind drag on the undercarriage, as well as helping keep water out.
With the bottom all buttoned back up, it’s time to install the new oil filter and refill the oil. Here’s a shot of the removed oil filter and sealing o-rings after their removal from the oil filter support:
Note the size of the two larger o-rings. The next shot is of the MB original oil filter kit, sitting next to a Mann oil filter kit. Notice any differences? The aftermarket kit did not include the extra oring needed for the M273 engine. It was, however, included with the MB kit.
I had previously bought the Mann oil filter kit and assumed it was identical to the MB oil filter kit but now know it isn't. I will now end up using it on my car. You can that it’s the exact same filter as is included in the MB kit, but for the missing o-ring.
But it’s a good thing to know if you’re replacing your oil filter, because the sealing o-rings should be replaced with the filter. Here’s a shot of the housing with all new o-rings in place:
The rest is easy. You slide the new filter fully onto the oil filter housing and then screw the housing back into the oil filter canister. Torque the cover to 25Nm.
You’re now ready to refill the oil. It takes 9.5 quarts. Once you’ve refilled, reinstall the cap, start the engine up and check for any leaks, and then shut it down and let it sit for about five minute. Then check the fill level on the dipstick. I always slightly under fill initially, and then top it up as needed.
This is an easy DIY project and you get the added satisfaction of knowing the work, as simple as it seems, was done correctly and far less expensively than what your MB dealer would charge to do it. All around win.
In anticipation of doing the work, I picked up an oil filter element, part no. 0001802609, an oil pan drain screw, part no. 1119970330, an oil drain sealing ring, part no. 007603014106, and 10 qts. of Mobil 1 in 0-40W (the change actually requires 9.5 quarts). You should change the oil when the engine is warm so the old oil more completely drains out.
So you lift the hood and can’t really see much:
The engine cover is easy to remove. Just lift up at its rear corners, and the lift up the front; it will pop right off. With cover removed, it’s easy to see both the oil filler tube, and the oil filter housing. These are indicated in this photo:
The first step is to allow the oil in the oil filter housing to drain down into the engine block. This is accomplished by attaching the correct size oil filter housing wrench on the cover of housing and loosening enough to allow air to replace the oil that drains into the block. Although my wrench is an AST tool, you can buy the correct size wrench at most auto parts stores. The next photo shows the wrench on the oil filter housing:
Once the oil has drained out of the oil filter housing, complete removal of the filter assembly. At this point, I also remove the oil filler cap. Having both of these open facilitates the oil draining out of the block.
The next step is to remove the shielding engine tray underneath the engine compartment. It is secured by nine 10mm headed bolts and two plastic rivets in the front. All of these fasteners can be reused, so be careful when pulling out the rivets that secure the tray to the front bumper cover.
With the tray removed, the oil pan drain plug is exposed:
The drain plug has a 13mm head. Once it’s removed, the oil drains and drains and drains:
I’m never in a rush when changing the oil, so I let it drain until almost all of the drips have stopped. Once that happens, you’re ready to reinstall the engine drain plug. As noted above, I had purchased a new one, but discovered it’s not needed since it doesn’t have a thread sealer on it like my other vehicle’s oil drain screws do. All you need is the new seal noted above. Here’s a shot of the old screw and the new one (not required).
Again, all you need is the new seal:
Torque the drain screw to 30 Nm and it’s good to go. At this stage, it’s also easiest to reinstall the engine tray cover. Position it into place and start a couple of the fasteners. I discovered the shop had neglected to correctly reinstall the two rivets – they were there, but had never been used to secure the front of the tray. Here’s therir location:
The rivets take additional time to reinstall, and I’m sure that’s why the dealership mechanic skipped reinstalling them, but they prevent excess air flow from potentially entering on the top of the tray and creating excess wind drag on the undercarriage, as well as helping keep water out.
With the bottom all buttoned back up, it’s time to install the new oil filter and refill the oil. Here’s a shot of the removed oil filter and sealing o-rings after their removal from the oil filter support:
Note the size of the two larger o-rings. The next shot is of the MB original oil filter kit, sitting next to a Mann oil filter kit. Notice any differences? The aftermarket kit did not include the extra oring needed for the M273 engine. It was, however, included with the MB kit.
I had previously bought the Mann oil filter kit and assumed it was identical to the MB oil filter kit but now know it isn't. I will now end up using it on my car. You can that it’s the exact same filter as is included in the MB kit, but for the missing o-ring.
But it’s a good thing to know if you’re replacing your oil filter, because the sealing o-rings should be replaced with the filter. Here’s a shot of the housing with all new o-rings in place:
The rest is easy. You slide the new filter fully onto the oil filter housing and then screw the housing back into the oil filter canister. Torque the cover to 25Nm.
You’re now ready to refill the oil. It takes 9.5 quarts. Once you’ve refilled, reinstall the cap, start the engine up and check for any leaks, and then shut it down and let it sit for about five minute. Then check the fill level on the dipstick. I always slightly under fill initially, and then top it up as needed.
This is an easy DIY project and you get the added satisfaction of knowing the work, as simple as it seems, was done correctly and far less expensively than what your MB dealer would charge to do it. All around win.
Last edited by komp55; Sep 28, 2011 at 05:28 AM.
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From: Mississauga
GLA45 AMG, GLC43 AMG
Nice write up, very well done....
But I need to ask, you say one ring is missing in the aftermarket kit, but you only replaced 3 rings anyways, so what is the 4th ring for and where did you put it ? Or did I miss something ?
But I need to ask, you say one ring is missing in the aftermarket kit, but you only replaced 3 rings anyways, so what is the 4th ring for and where did you put it ? Or did I miss something ?
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The small oring isn't used in the M273 oil filter support housing. It's used on the support for the M113 oil filter (and maybe others).
Last edited by komp55; Sep 27, 2011 at 02:10 PM.
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2011 ML550
Thanks for the information and pictures. I've always changed the oil myself in all my cars, but being my first german vehicle, I'm a little hesitant. Your pictorial makes it all look very straight forward however.
Approximately how much does the oil filter and o-ring kit go for at the dealerships?
Approximately how much does the oil filter and o-ring kit go for at the dealerships?
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2011 ML550
Very clear write up.
10 qrts of oil, why don't let dealer change oil for you, about $100 + tax, you don't have to do anything. I used to DIY but last 10 yrs, I let dealers do it. DIY not really save alot money on oil change.
10 qrts of oil, why don't let dealer change oil for you, about $100 + tax, you don't have to do anything. I used to DIY but last 10 yrs, I let dealers do it. DIY not really save alot money on oil change.
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2011 ML550
[QUOTE=komp55;4851444]To each is own; for such a simple task.
To be honest, after I read your write up made me really want DIY oil change, but I don't have time.
Go buy oil and filter, do oil chane, go back to auto parts to dump used oil, can't not drop in strash, big fine for that.
Thank you for write up anyway, might DIY oil change one day.
By the way didn't know oil filter located up top on engine. I've learn alot scone joined in this forum.
To be honest, after I read your write up made me really want DIY oil change, but I don't have time.
Go buy oil and filter, do oil chane, go back to auto parts to dump used oil, can't not drop in strash, big fine for that.
Thank you for write up anyway, might DIY oil change one day.
By the way didn't know oil filter located up top on engine. I've learn alot scone joined in this forum.
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From: Lake Tahoe
w164 (ml 500)
That's what our Dealer's service dept dose, and that in it's self is a good reason to DIY the oil change (at least every other time). Using a vac to remove oil will leave about 1/2 qt of old oil.
Remember to keep your receipts if you DIY to show that you did change the oil at the recommended milage. Buying your parts at the MB service dept also help document the service.
Mark.
Remember to keep your receipts if you DIY to show that you did change the oil at the recommended milage. Buying your parts at the MB service dept also help document the service.
Mark.
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From: Harrisburg PA
'02 ML500
Very Good write up....but where did the pics go?? Disappointing!
I too don't like the idea of the vacuum oil withdrawal idea.
The idea of using the sump drain plug is to allow any sludge and/or contaminants to
drain out with the warm oil. The drained oil tells a tale when inspecting it in the drain pan and could possibly head off any potential engine maladies.
~Farco
I too don't like the idea of the vacuum oil withdrawal idea.
The idea of using the sump drain plug is to allow any sludge and/or contaminants to
drain out with the warm oil. The drained oil tells a tale when inspecting it in the drain pan and could possibly head off any potential engine maladies.
~Farco
