2008 ML320 CDI - Oil Cooler Seals Replacement
So i finally had the time to check if the drain hole by the oil cooler is plugged or not. Seems to be fine. Must be an oil cooler leak.
Wanted to do the oil cooler and oil change together and checked on the last dealer oil change.
NOTICED THAT DEALER SWITCHED TO 0W30 on my last oil change and oil leak happened shortly after that!!
Possible that I could switch back to 5W40 and not have the oil leak any more.
What are your thoughts on that.
Regards
Heiko




So i finally had the time to check if the drain hole by the oil cooler is plugged or not. Seems to be fine. Must be an oil cooler leak.
Wanted to do the oil cooler and oil change together and checked on the last dealer oil change.
NOTICED THAT DEALER SWITCHED TO 0W30 on my last oil change and oil leak happened shortly after that!!
Possible that I could switch back to 5W40 and not have the oil leak any more.
What are your thoughts on that.
Regards
Heiko
I'll keep an eye on it and fix it once it gets worse or in Summer as a preventative when I have more time. Working 14/7 doesn't allow for lots of time in the garage.
So i finally had the time to check if the drain hole by the oil cooler is plugged or not. Seems to be fine. Must be an oil cooler leak.
Wanted to do the oil cooler and oil change together and checked on the last dealer oil change.
NOTICED THAT DEALER SWITCHED TO 0W30 on my last oil change and oil leak happened shortly after that!!
Possible that I could switch back to 5W40 and not have the oil leak any more.
What are your thoughts on that.
Regards
Heiko
Remove the cover and look at the top of the butterfly valve actuator. It is above the oil cooler, and if covered in oil, you might have a cheap fix on your hands.
I was thinking of plugging in a plastic tube into the engine sweep hole and then to collect the oil spill in a container to be emptied every 3 months or so...Anyone tried this??
Notes: Contains: (1) 642-142-18-80 EGR Gasket (1) 642-142-06-81 Exhaust Flange Gasket (1) 219-492-00-80 Exhaust Gasket (1) 642-142-31-80 Turbo Gasket (1) 642-142-32-80 Turbo Gasket (1) 014-997-49-45 Exhaust Seal Ring (2) 642-188-04-80 Oil Cooler Seals (1) 014-997-64-45 Exhaust Seal Ring (1) 013-997-00-45 Intake Manifold Seal (6) 000-078-05-80 Injector Seals (2) 642-141-05-80 Intake Manifold Gaskets (1) 642-141-00-80 Gasket,
Is all this necessary? It's $115.
Notes: Contains: (1) 642-142-18-80 EGR Gasket (1) 642-142-06-81 Exhaust Flange Gasket (1) 219-492-00-80 Exhaust Gasket (1) 642-142-31-80 Turbo Gasket (1) 642-142-32-80 Turbo Gasket (1) 014-997-49-45 Exhaust Seal Ring (2) 642-188-04-80 Oil Cooler Seals (1) 014-997-64-45 Exhaust Seal Ring (1) 013-997-00-45 Intake Manifold Seal (6) 000-078-05-80 Injector Seals (2) 642-141-05-80 Intake Manifold Gaskets (1) 642-141-00-80 Gasket,
Is all this necessary? It's $115.
I also saved instructions from WIS (PDF's), $160 for a one week subscription was the best money I ever spent! If anyone would like a copy I would be more than happy to email them to you, just PM me.
Any advice on removing the carbon build up? EGR valve, intake nanifold.... what else will have carbon build up that you can remove yourself? And I apologize, this is the first time I have ever worked on any vehicle besides an oil change and replacing break pads. When the dealer quoted me $3,100 to replace the oil cooler, oil cooler seals and turbo inlet seal I laughed after I found out how much parts were. Honestly, the dealer will never touch my vehicle again. If I can understand directions from WIS, anyone can! This job is extremely time consuming and meticulous, but it's totally do-able.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I have read DIYs in the sprinter forum where swirl motor is reattached after intake manifold is reassembled..
I am also replacing turbo bolts and also other bolts for down pipe and egr elbow..
https://www.idparts.com/oil-cooler-s...42-p-5146.html
Last edited by Harbro; Oct 13, 2017 at 09:15 PM.









Don't know, yet. I'm still in the process of taking it apart. The gaskets from ID Parts cost about $120 with shipping (I already ordered them), and the oil cooler is only another $157, so I'll find out as I go along. The difference in price is very small, when considering the 10+ hours I expect to spend on the total repair.




Don't know, yet. I'm still in the process of taking it apart. The gaskets from ID Parts cost about $120 with shipping (I already ordered them), and the oil cooler is only another $157, so I'll find out as I go along. The difference in price is very small, when considering the 10+ hours I expect to spend on the total repair.
Don't know, yet. I'm still in the process of taking it apart. The gaskets from ID Parts cost about $120 with shipping (I already ordered them), and the oil cooler is only another $157, so I'll find out as I go along. The difference in price is very small, when considering the 10+ hours I expect to spend on the total repair.
I got a good look at it this last weekend to go back in. Use a deep female torx to get at the turbo bolts is what I gathered due to space limitations. You will need it to remove the turbo air to IC metal pipe long bolt which holds the plastic engine cover as well. I ended up using a 10mm closed wrench but a deep socket torx is the right tool.
VIM Tools VDE418 11-Piece Deep Torx Socket Set
Some details on turbo removal tricks and tips would be greatly appreciated on the GL and ML specifics.
Have to go back in myself and fix it at some point now out of warranty. Did emissions a few months back so I have 18 months to get back in there and sort it out.
Last edited by chsu74; Oct 26, 2017 at 10:18 PM.
BTW, I think 10 hours is being pretty optimistic. Plan on nearly double that after cleaning the manifold, EGR, intake, etc.
IRT turbo R&R, if your gasket between the pedestal and turbo has two holes, you can clip it onto either the pedestal or the base of the turbo prior to installing. Clipping it onto the turbo will make it a LOT easier. I put the gasket onto the pedestal and it caused a lot of grief when it kept being knocked off. One other thing - be careful not to damage the fuel rail pressure sender on the back of the RH fuel rail. They cost a fortune, but FYI the sensor from a 3500 Sprinter is exactly the same - just different numbers - so MB can gouge of course...
Last edited by Harbro; Oct 27, 2017 at 07:06 PM.
I did not remove the center piece cowl though. Maybe removing the center piece is required. And I need to come up with a new combo length that fits in between which is why I am thinking a deep well torx socket..



