Turn Key and nothing happens...and other electrical grimlims
05-25-2016, 12:39 PM
#26
Yes, I believe the EIS is similar in design on most models.
05-27-2016, 01:38 PM
#27
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GL450
I can tell you that if you're not experienced in soldering, you really want to seek the help of a pro (like I did)
I have tried to load pics 3 times now but no luck. Let me know if I need to do something special to gain those privileges or if it just doesn't work on a mobile phone.
Last edited by beachcruzer; 05-27-2016 at 02:05 PM. Reason: No pics
05-30-2016, 05:13 AM
#29
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2009 MB ML320 CDI
Just fixed ours successfully following thumbdoctor's instructions.
Intermittant nothing turning on, - then with battery fully charged does not recognise key. Both keys.
I used 2 flat blade screwdrivers with another between them as a lever to start the trim ring rotating, took a bit of force to get the EIS out of its postion because theres a polystyrene block behind the dash.
Work along with a thin blade of any kind (not sharp) to get the back off push lock tads in + keep it apart as you go.
Sure enough white plug was broken off, got pro to solder back on only cost $18.75
I would not attempt to do the soldering yourself unless you have the correct gear for fine soldering + some experience.
I have some pics but would not know how to load them.
Intermittant nothing turning on, - then with battery fully charged does not recognise key. Both keys.
I used 2 flat blade screwdrivers with another between them as a lever to start the trim ring rotating, took a bit of force to get the EIS out of its postion because theres a polystyrene block behind the dash.
Work along with a thin blade of any kind (not sharp) to get the back off push lock tads in + keep it apart as you go.
Sure enough white plug was broken off, got pro to solder back on only cost $18.75
I would not attempt to do the soldering yourself unless you have the correct gear for fine soldering + some experience.
I have some pics but would not know how to load them.
Last edited by Kiwi Ed; 05-30-2016 at 05:45 PM.
07-04-2016, 02:05 AM
#30
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W164 ML500
Has anyone had this issue but where the dash lights do come on? When I insert and turn my key to on everything is as it should be, dash lights lit and stereo on. Problem is when I turn the key to crank nothing happens. I've checked all fuses and they're fine. I've jumped the starter to ensure that's not the problem. I checked on Star and testing the EZS directly it sees all the key positions but it doesn't seem to send these signals along to the ECU. When I do a CAN bus test it shows the EZS as "not present" whereas all the other modules are as they should be. This is what leads me to believe that this is still an EZS problem. Does anyone know if the cold solder joint issue could cause this?
Cheers,
John
Cheers,
John
07-04-2016, 04:34 AM
#31
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2009 MB ML320 CDI
There are 3 connection pins that plug into the white block, when I took out the circuit board the block stayed on the pins, ie: if any of the joints were still connected they were pretty weak.
Probably would not hurt to pull EIS + do this, as not a lot lost if its not the problem + you know its right for the future.
Good Luck
Probably would not hurt to pull EIS + do this, as not a lot lost if its not the problem + you know its right for the future.
Good Luck
07-19-2016, 08:44 PM
#32
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W164 ML500
There are 3 connection pins that plug into the white block, when I took out the circuit board the block stayed on the pins, ie: if any of the joints were still connected they were pretty weak.
Probably would not hurt to pull EIS + do this, as not a lot lost if its not the problem + you know its right for the future.
Good Luck
Probably would not hurt to pull EIS + do this, as not a lot lost if its not the problem + you know its right for the future.
Good Luck
Cheers,
John
07-20-2016, 06:22 AM
#33
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2009 MB ML320 CDI
Hi, Reread first part of step 4 post 16 (thumdoctor) may help.
Then I just pulled outwards a bit on the dash cover (its flexible) and used brute force didn't break or have to cut any thing but most importantly its how you hold your mouth (facial expression) or words X%%$$%&!!!!....... nah wasn't too hard... pulling the dash outwards I think is the main thing then flip sideways and remove wires as step 4 then carry on as step 4 while pulling on dash.
Then I just pulled outwards a bit on the dash cover (its flexible) and used brute force didn't break or have to cut any thing but most importantly its how you hold your mouth (facial expression) or words X%%$$%&!!!!....... nah wasn't too hard... pulling the dash outwards I think is the main thing then flip sideways and remove wires as step 4 then carry on as step 4 while pulling on dash.
08-05-2016, 02:25 PM
#35
Member
@thumbdoctor, beachcruzer, Kiwi Ed,
I am having the same intermittent EIS issue: insert key; no steering wheel lowering, turn key; no lights, no start, on my 2008 ML320 CDI. The frequency has been occurring on a more regular basis for the past two weeks.
I have replaced the batteries in both keys and have switched them. Issue persists with both keys.
Spoke to the local MB dealer service advisor and was told there are no codes stored when this happens. They really cannot provide a print out proving that the EIS module is faulty. The only way to prove is to wait until the EIS module fails completely and then have the vehicle towed in on a flatbed. Not very encouraging, and the estimate for replacement is $1,200 to $1,500.
Happy to have found your write up thumbdoctor! The question I have regards step 2, 'steering accordion (column dash filler)'.
I have attached a picture of my steering column fully out and up. Are you talking about the grey piece at the bottom of the column? Or does yours look different?
Thank you.
I am having the same intermittent EIS issue: insert key; no steering wheel lowering, turn key; no lights, no start, on my 2008 ML320 CDI. The frequency has been occurring on a more regular basis for the past two weeks.
I have replaced the batteries in both keys and have switched them. Issue persists with both keys.
Spoke to the local MB dealer service advisor and was told there are no codes stored when this happens. They really cannot provide a print out proving that the EIS module is faulty. The only way to prove is to wait until the EIS module fails completely and then have the vehicle towed in on a flatbed. Not very encouraging, and the estimate for replacement is $1,200 to $1,500.
Happy to have found your write up thumbdoctor! The question I have regards step 2, 'steering accordion (column dash filler)'.
I have attached a picture of my steering column fully out and up. Are you talking about the grey piece at the bottom of the column? Or does yours look different?
Thank you.
08-05-2016, 07:16 PM
#37
Member
Thank you Kiwi Ed.
Do I just grab the solid piece at the base of the column? I tried moving it a little but it does not want to move up? It appears that the 'material' portion is connected to the fitted portion which goes all around the entire opening. When I'm able to move the solid piece up will it then take the material part and larger base portion along with it?
Do I just grab the solid piece at the base of the column? I tried moving it a little but it does not want to move up? It appears that the 'material' portion is connected to the fitted portion which goes all around the entire opening. When I'm able to move the solid piece up will it then take the material part and larger base portion along with it?
08-05-2016, 09:52 PM
#38
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2009 MB ML320 CDI
Try Grabbing the Outer solid part at the top (between the dials) + pull towards the steering wheel - unclips easily, the Middle solid part just floats on the column + the 3 parts are attached to each other.
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CLK Group (08-06-2016)
08-08-2016, 11:03 AM
#39
Member
Question for thumbdoctor, beachcruzer, and KiwiEd.
Have removed the PC board from the EIS module but cannot see the three pin connector referred to by thumbdoctor. The only connector from the PC board to the module is a seven pin one as shown in the attached pics. It is attached very well to the PC board.
Maybe because mine is a 2008? Mercedes module part number is A 1645451308.
Did find some fine debris on the clear plastic lens and cleaned it and the infra red receptor chip as per thumbdoctor's instructions. Maybe that is what has been causing my intermittent issues?
Have removed the PC board from the EIS module but cannot see the three pin connector referred to by thumbdoctor. The only connector from the PC board to the module is a seven pin one as shown in the attached pics. It is attached very well to the PC board.
Maybe because mine is a 2008? Mercedes module part number is A 1645451308.
Did find some fine debris on the clear plastic lens and cleaned it and the infra red receptor chip as per thumbdoctor's instructions. Maybe that is what has been causing my intermittent issues?
08-08-2016, 11:42 AM
#40
Member
So have put everything back together and checked - everything is working fine. I suspect my intermittent problem was caused by the fine debris I found on the clear lens - will just have to see if this has fixed the problem.
After reading beachcruzer's post regarding accessing the EIS module via the Command opening, I located these videos:
This one shows the removal process for the A/C control panel and Command unit:
This one shows the above plus access to the EIS module:
I found this method very easy and had plenty of room to access the EIS module.
Thanks again to thumbdoctor, beachcruzer, and KiwiEd!
After reading beachcruzer's post regarding accessing the EIS module via the Command opening, I located these videos:
This one shows the removal process for the A/C control panel and Command unit:
This one shows the above plus access to the EIS module:
I found this method very easy and had plenty of room to access the EIS module.
Thanks again to thumbdoctor, beachcruzer, and KiwiEd!
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Carcheologist (05-18-2018)
09-15-2016, 03:25 PM
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w164 ML350 145K Miles
Key turns, dashboard lights on but no or intermittant start - still EIS problem?
DUD45 John, did you have your EIS problem sorted out? It seems like everyone in this thread experiencing the same "tell tale signs" of EIS problem. "When key is turned - no dashboard lights come on, and no crank". On my w164 I have everything working like for normal start sequence - dashboard lights, steering wheel lowering etc. just no crank. Sometimes it works after a few tries, sometimes it doesn't. Noticed that it coincides with hot temperature. In the garage starts OK, but left on the sun sometimes doesn't. Key batteries replaced, and second fob key acts the same. My local MB mechanic said he cannot read any error codes off EIS. Any input?
10-09-2016, 06:22 PM
#43
Member
This happened to me with my 2006 ML500. Starter would crank but car would not start. Did this occasionally for a couple weeks. Then it stalled on me going about 25-30mph. Then after the stalling incident it stalled about a mile later while stopped at a corner. My remedy was to disconnect the power wires both from & in rear compartment behind panel on passenger side of car. The fix was a transmission sensor. No EIS problem or key fob problem. No problems since. Lights always lit up & car would turn over. I have a left side rear turn signal message intermittently. Sometimes it corrects itself, sometimes I take the bulb out & put it back in & it works. I've read here on the forum that the W164 have this problem later in life. There is an after market direct wiring harness that fixes most of these problems. You can find it on the forum.
10-09-2016, 06:23 PM
#44
Member
This happened to me with my 2006 ML500. Starter would crank but car would not start. Did this occasionally for a couple weeks. Then it stalled on me going about 25-30mph. Then after the stalling incident it stalled about a mile later while stopped at a corner. My remedy was to disconnect the power wires both front & in rear compartment behind panel on passenger side of car. The fix was a transmission sensor. No EIS problem or key fob problem. No problems since. Lights always lit up & car would turn over. I have a left side rear turn signal message intermittently. Sometimes it corrects itself, sometimes I take the bulb out & put it back in & it works. I've read here on the forum that the W164 have this problem later in life. There is an after market direct wiring harness that fixes most of these problems. You can find it on the forum.
10-11-2016, 12:20 PM
#45
Member
I need to correct myself on my starter cranking but no start. When I disconnected the battery power cable under the bonnet nothing happened. Hoping for a reset. There is another battery power connection in tnside the passenger panel in the cargo area. When I disconnected that & reconnected it the vehicle would start. Then I had the two stalling issues. What I needed was a crank sensor, not a transmission sensor. Have had no problems since. EIS was not an issue for me. Hope this helps.
10-18-2016, 08:12 PM
#46
Everything was exactly as you described. On R320 removing lock is even easier.
Tip: to safely unlock printed board from lock body insert wooden toothpicks between clips and board.
Soldered connector back to place and problem solved. 1.5 hour job for inexperienced MB owner.
Thanks
Tip: to safely unlock printed board from lock body insert wooden toothpicks between clips and board.
Soldered connector back to place and problem solved. 1.5 hour job for inexperienced MB owner.
Thanks
There has been quite a few posts I've read concerning ML350 electronic ignition switches (EIS) P/N 203.545.06.08 and no communication with other modules on MB CAN when th smart key is inserted. I have found an issue with my recently purchased 2010 ML350 BlueTEC. The problem started when I drove to Florida last week and the car sat in the sun for about a week. When I first tried to start her, the smart key turned but no dash lights, seat & steering column memory function. I opened the doors and aired out the car for a few hours in the evening and to my surprise, it restarted fine. This problem reoccurred a few times throughout my trip and occurred again today back here in Quebec (temperature 66 F). I understand a few folks here on MBWorld had or have the same experience and had to have the dealer replace the EIS (sometimes after a dealer second key program) requiring new EIS, smart key(s) and coding/programming. I also know that "Hacks" to bypass the system are frowned upon by MB purists. I wasn't about to part with $1600 CDN for the dealer to replace said switch after the cost of towing the vehicle 50 Kilometers on a dolly(stuck in park).
So, here's what I've found and repairs some switches for those who are handy and have basic tools(sorry no photos).
First, to get the ignition switch out does not require dashboard disassembly on an ML. You only need telescope the column all the way out & raise it.
Second, pull the steering accordion (column dash filler) toward the steering wheel. Its held on by snap locks which release easily. Once the cover releases, pull it all the way up the column.
Third, using a wide blade standard screw driver (plastic trim tool) rotate the ignition switch escutcheon (trim ring) counter clockwise until the EIS releases into the dash pad.
Fourth, reach in through the opening at the base of the steering column where you previously removed the cover. Grab the EIS module and rotate it so you can observe the 2 harness connectors. Using needle nosed pliers, through the ignition mounting hole, disconnect the 2 plugs. Now you can pull the EIS module out though the steering column gap (after rotating the switch a little to clear). A quick diagnose is to place the EIS module in the freezer for 20 minutes then pull the 2 connectors through the dash panel mounting hole, reconnect them to the chilled switch outside the dash and retry start up sequence (this also can be performed by spraying the back of the module using electronic component freeze or canned air (CO2) held upside down. Another test would be warming the EIS with a hair drier. This will prove what I've found with said defective switches, cold solder joints.
Fifth, With the EIS module on a bench (kitchen table) carefully pry the rear cover off the EIS module using feeler gauge blades placed under the lock tabs. Next, carefully pry the printed circuit board out of the EIS module by un-clipping the locking tabs. Make sure you pull the PC board straight out to avoid breaking the inside 3 terminal plug (white in color). What you may find is the white connector plug that connects the outer PC board has stayed connected to the inside terminals of the module (this has come un-soldered (fractured) from the main PC board causing your failure). The fact is, that this is technically a "cold solder" connection thus affected by heat/cold.
Sixth, pull the white connector(3 pin) out of the module housing and re-solder it the the PC main board. While you're inside the module, using a Q-tip, clean the infra red receptor chip in the middle of the main PC Board located on the inside facing part of the PC board (its aligned with the clear plastic lens in the middle gear mechanism of the module (this repairs intermittent communication issues). I suspect this is the problem most EIS rebuilders face when reconditioning bad switches. You can retest the repaired switch with the 2 plugs still passed through the mounting hole in dash pad. Once repaired, reverse the disassembly process. The repair doesn't require new EIS coding or key programming. I also suspect this issue occurs more frequently in the warmer, dustier climates. Saves wallet bleeding and visit to your favorite MB dealer. Enjoy!
So, here's what I've found and repairs some switches for those who are handy and have basic tools(sorry no photos).
First, to get the ignition switch out does not require dashboard disassembly on an ML. You only need telescope the column all the way out & raise it.
Second, pull the steering accordion (column dash filler) toward the steering wheel. Its held on by snap locks which release easily. Once the cover releases, pull it all the way up the column.
Third, using a wide blade standard screw driver (plastic trim tool) rotate the ignition switch escutcheon (trim ring) counter clockwise until the EIS releases into the dash pad.
Fourth, reach in through the opening at the base of the steering column where you previously removed the cover. Grab the EIS module and rotate it so you can observe the 2 harness connectors. Using needle nosed pliers, through the ignition mounting hole, disconnect the 2 plugs. Now you can pull the EIS module out though the steering column gap (after rotating the switch a little to clear). A quick diagnose is to place the EIS module in the freezer for 20 minutes then pull the 2 connectors through the dash panel mounting hole, reconnect them to the chilled switch outside the dash and retry start up sequence (this also can be performed by spraying the back of the module using electronic component freeze or canned air (CO2) held upside down. Another test would be warming the EIS with a hair drier. This will prove what I've found with said defective switches, cold solder joints.
Fifth, With the EIS module on a bench (kitchen table) carefully pry the rear cover off the EIS module using feeler gauge blades placed under the lock tabs. Next, carefully pry the printed circuit board out of the EIS module by un-clipping the locking tabs. Make sure you pull the PC board straight out to avoid breaking the inside 3 terminal plug (white in color). What you may find is the white connector plug that connects the outer PC board has stayed connected to the inside terminals of the module (this has come un-soldered (fractured) from the main PC board causing your failure). The fact is, that this is technically a "cold solder" connection thus affected by heat/cold.
Sixth, pull the white connector(3 pin) out of the module housing and re-solder it the the PC main board. While you're inside the module, using a Q-tip, clean the infra red receptor chip in the middle of the main PC Board located on the inside facing part of the PC board (its aligned with the clear plastic lens in the middle gear mechanism of the module (this repairs intermittent communication issues). I suspect this is the problem most EIS rebuilders face when reconditioning bad switches. You can retest the repaired switch with the 2 plugs still passed through the mounting hole in dash pad. Once repaired, reverse the disassembly process. The repair doesn't require new EIS coding or key programming. I also suspect this issue occurs more frequently in the warmer, dustier climates. Saves wallet bleeding and visit to your favorite MB dealer. Enjoy!
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elbadrawy Hany (07-14-2020)
11-30-2016, 06:35 PM
#47
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2008 mercedes C320
Hi guys I'm having problems with my fob well I think it the fob , it opens the doors and locks the doors and opens the boot , but when I put it in the ignition no lights come on and it turns all the way , but no dash borard lights come on I have a C320 cdi 2008 , can anyone help me please ... thank you
05-01-2017, 10:47 AM
#48
EIS Fixed Simple and Easier than you think
After identifying that the EIS on our 2010 ML 350 was the issue. It would take my wife 8-10 try to start the car. I located Thumbdoc instruction but located an eis repair service on Ebay (one is in Willowbrook, il). I removed it per thumbdoc instruction and sent it to LUXAutoelectronics (on ebay) and had it repaired for $150.00. Received is a few day later and reinstalled. Works like new again. About a half hour of my time about a week turnaround from LuxAuto. All is good.
10-10-2017, 10:25 AM
#49
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2011 ML350
Nice work Thumbdoctor
There has been quite a few posts I've read concerning ML350 electronic ignition switches (EIS) P/N 203.545.06.08 and no communication with other modules on MB CAN when th smart key is inserted. I have found an issue with my recently purchased 2010 ML350 BlueTEC. The problem started when I drove to Florida last week and the car sat in the sun for about a week. When I first tried to start her, the smart key turned but no dash lights, seat & steering column memory function. I opened the doors and aired out the car for a few hours in the evening and to my surprise, it restarted fine. This problem reoccurred a few times throughout my trip and occurred again today back here in Quebec (temperature 66 F). I understand a few folks here on MBWorld had or have the same experience and had to have the dealer replace the EIS (sometimes after a dealer second key program) requiring new EIS, smart key(s) and coding/programming. I also know that "Hacks" to bypass the system are frowned upon by MB purists. I wasn't about to part with $1600 CDN for the dealer to replace said switch after the cost of towing the vehicle 50 Kilometers on a dolly(stuck in park).
So, here's what I've found and repairs some switches for those who are handy and have basic tools(sorry no photos).
First, to get the ignition switch out does not require dashboard disassembly on an ML. You only need telescope the column all the way out & raise it.
Second, pull the steering accordion (column dash filler) toward the steering wheel. Its held on by snap locks which release easily. Once the cover releases, pull it all the way up the column.
Third, using a wide blade standard screw driver (plastic trim tool) rotate the ignition switch escutcheon (trim ring) counter clockwise until the EIS releases into the dash pad.
Fourth, reach in through the opening at the base of the steering column where you previously removed the cover. Grab the EIS module and rotate it so you can observe the 2 harness connectors. Using needle nosed pliers, through the ignition mounting hole, disconnect the 2 plugs. Now you can pull the EIS module out though the steering column gap (after rotating the switch a little to clear). A quick diagnose is to place the EIS module in the freezer for 20 minutes then pull the 2 connectors through the dash panel mounting hole, reconnect them to the chilled switch outside the dash and retry start up sequence (this also can be performed by spraying the back of the module using electronic component freeze or canned air (CO2) held upside down. Another test would be warming the EIS with a hair drier. This will prove what I've found with said defective switches, cold solder joints.
Fifth, With the EIS module on a bench (kitchen table) carefully pry the rear cover off the EIS module using feeler gauge blades placed under the lock tabs. Next, carefully pry the printed circuit board out of the EIS module by un-clipping the locking tabs. Make sure you pull the PC board straight out to avoid breaking the inside 3 terminal plug (white in color). What you may find is the white connector plug that connects the outer PC board has stayed connected to the inside terminals of the module (this has come un-soldered (fractured) from the main PC board causing your failure). The fact is, that this is technically a "cold solder" connection thus affected by heat/cold.
Sixth, pull the white connector(3 pin) out of the module housing and re-solder it the the PC main board. While you're inside the module, using a Q-tip, clean the infra red receptor chip in the middle of the main PC Board located on the inside facing part of the PC board (its aligned with the clear plastic lens in the middle gear mechanism of the module (this repairs intermittent communication issues). I suspect this is the problem most EIS rebuilders face when reconditioning bad switches. You can retest the repaired switch with the 2 plugs still passed through the mounting hole in dash pad. Once repaired, reverse the disassembly process. The repair doesn't require new EIS coding or key programming. I also suspect this issue occurs more frequently in the warmer, dustier climates. Saves wallet bleeding and visit to your favorite MB dealer. Enjoy!
So, here's what I've found and repairs some switches for those who are handy and have basic tools(sorry no photos).
First, to get the ignition switch out does not require dashboard disassembly on an ML. You only need telescope the column all the way out & raise it.
Second, pull the steering accordion (column dash filler) toward the steering wheel. Its held on by snap locks which release easily. Once the cover releases, pull it all the way up the column.
Third, using a wide blade standard screw driver (plastic trim tool) rotate the ignition switch escutcheon (trim ring) counter clockwise until the EIS releases into the dash pad.
Fourth, reach in through the opening at the base of the steering column where you previously removed the cover. Grab the EIS module and rotate it so you can observe the 2 harness connectors. Using needle nosed pliers, through the ignition mounting hole, disconnect the 2 plugs. Now you can pull the EIS module out though the steering column gap (after rotating the switch a little to clear). A quick diagnose is to place the EIS module in the freezer for 20 minutes then pull the 2 connectors through the dash panel mounting hole, reconnect them to the chilled switch outside the dash and retry start up sequence (this also can be performed by spraying the back of the module using electronic component freeze or canned air (CO2) held upside down. Another test would be warming the EIS with a hair drier. This will prove what I've found with said defective switches, cold solder joints.
Fifth, With the EIS module on a bench (kitchen table) carefully pry the rear cover off the EIS module using feeler gauge blades placed under the lock tabs. Next, carefully pry the printed circuit board out of the EIS module by un-clipping the locking tabs. Make sure you pull the PC board straight out to avoid breaking the inside 3 terminal plug (white in color). What you may find is the white connector plug that connects the outer PC board has stayed connected to the inside terminals of the module (this has come un-soldered (fractured) from the main PC board causing your failure). The fact is, that this is technically a "cold solder" connection thus affected by heat/cold.
Sixth, pull the white connector(3 pin) out of the module housing and re-solder it the the PC main board. While you're inside the module, using a Q-tip, clean the infra red receptor chip in the middle of the main PC Board located on the inside facing part of the PC board (its aligned with the clear plastic lens in the middle gear mechanism of the module (this repairs intermittent communication issues). I suspect this is the problem most EIS rebuilders face when reconditioning bad switches. You can retest the repaired switch with the 2 plugs still passed through the mounting hole in dash pad. Once repaired, reverse the disassembly process. The repair doesn't require new EIS coding or key programming. I also suspect this issue occurs more frequently in the warmer, dustier climates. Saves wallet bleeding and visit to your favorite MB dealer. Enjoy!
Broken 3 pin connector
Sorry it's not clear, but this is after the connection was soldered.
11-02-2017, 09:37 AM
#50
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w219
contact for luxautoelectronics
After identifying that the EIS on our 2010 ML 350 was the issue. It would take my wife 8-10 try to start the car. I located Thumbdoc instruction but located an eis repair service on Ebay (one is in Willowbrook, il). I removed it per thumbdoc instruction and sent it to LUXAutoelectronics (on ebay) and had it repaired for $150.00. Received is a few day later and reinstalled. Works like new again. About a half hour of my time about a week turnaround from LuxAuto. All is good.
Can you please PM me luxauto contacts?
Thanks!
