Spartydano

Follow up to brake questions on earlier post about brakes. Got from Rock Auto
Akebono Euro 1122 rear pads
Akebono Euro 1123 front pads
Centrix 12135092 (Economy) C-TEK Standard Disc rear rotors
Ultra Rotor 980427 (Economy) Slotted front rotors (clearance)
Original sensors from MB

Would like to hear from the forum if I should’ve chose differently. I could change if suggested. Thanks folks. Dan

C230 Sport Coup

Imho, stick with oem rotors.
Those Akebono pads will last almost forever. You want the rotors to last just as long. We've got the akebonos on all four corners they work great. Have them on my C-Class also.

Maj. Dundee

If you are going slotted on the front, why not on the rear?

Spartydano

They were a close out so basically cheap. I have a problem with telling wich are OEM. I’m not sure about fronts. Don’t even know about Centrix. Just went with normal driving off Rock Auto. Maybe replacing before I hoped to eh? Thanks for replying. I’m a dumb DIYet

Maj. Dundee

You have too many players on the field. Five yard penalty.

Spartydano

LOL! Thanks MAJ. Do you think I’ll be okay with those rotors? I wanted to wait for advise but a tensioner pulley forced me to make the order consolidating shipping cost. Only one car so I had to fix the pulley.

Do you normally buy your replacement parts from Benz as apppsed to other online or regular auto parts locations? Also, if a parts site asks for your vehicle information are the options they show OEM approved?

Thank you for all your advise now & on the forum. It’s nice to have knowledgeable participants. Dan

Maj. Dundee

You will be fine with what you have but sometimes buying parts because they are on sale is a little defeatist, in my opinion.

Please explain this tensioner issue.

Spartydano

My wife was on her way to her nightly rummycube game & the power steering went out. While thinking it might have been fluid my friend noticed the serpentine belt had slipped off. While checking the pulleys we noticed the tensioner pulley was hard to spin. After putting the belt back on (seemed all nice & tight) & starting the truck the pulley wobbled & was loud. As I drove away the belt slipped off about 30 feet down the road. Online research of the symptoms & of course the wobbling & noice lead me to change the tensioner pulley. Pretty easy job. 2 bolts, has a 16mm solid nut to move the pulley to get to the bottom bolt & to allow for slack to get belt back on. About $40 for the assembly. Hoping this is helpful. Thanks again. Dan

Maj. Dundee

Yes it does, but it sounded like you had a new issue.