Geoeray

I replaced my PCV component and valve recently because the old one was allowing oil through to the turbo. I am having the same problem with the new one. It is a Mercedes part not after market. Is there a way to test the component on the hose and the electric supply to that component ? Or is there another solve to this?

Thank you in advance,
George

Maj. Dundee

George, PCV valves went away decades ago. What is the part number of the valve you replaced and what was the code number?

Geoeray

The part number is W0133 1977304 described as Crankcase vent valve and PCV valve. The hose has an electric component on it. I guess it should be preventing oil from being sucked from the crankcase to the turbo. But oil is getting through. I replaced the whole part the plastic part on the engine as well as the hose. No code number is coming up.

Maj. Dundee

This number, W0133 1977304, is an aftermarket part number and not a M/B number.

Is your truck a CDI or Blue?

Geoeray

This is the part # that I installed B2017460220 The Engine is a Blu Tech diesel 3.0L.

Geoeray

I don't know why the color and #'s in parentheses keeps coming up.

Maj. Dundee

Geo, please post the info on this valve. Who did you buy it from, post the link. Any info will help.

Geoeray

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...rm=B2017460220 Link to where it was purchased. It is a Mercedes brand part. Not an aftermarket. The orange piece is where it plugs in.

Maj. Dundee

On the part tag there is a part # A642 xxx xx xx. Please fill in the rest of the part number.

CLK Group

I had mine replaced in 5/17. The part number is A642 010 1891.

Truck has run smoother ever since.

Geoeray

The part number is A642 010 1891.

Geoeray

Did your replacement stop the turbo from pulling oil from the crankcase?

CLK Group

Geoeray - I had it replaced only because of the mileage on the truck - 90K at the time. I had read where the rubber diaphragm stops working properly and then allows the turbo to draw in not only the oil vapor, but actual oil. This causes several problems which I wanted to avoid. As I had stated, I have noticed a smoother performance ever since the replacement.

This video explains it further:

Geoeray

Thanks. The video is helpful. I had not come across this. I may have a defective Original Equipment replacement part. Diagnosis ahead.

Ruan Tecillo

I have the same car you do. just wanted to know how it went? did you replace the valve again ? did it stop pulling oil ? I noticed oil on my turbo intake seal..I'll be doing this shortly I have 118k i believe it original pcv.

Geoeray

I would go about the repair differently if I did it again. I replaced the PCV and Replaced the red gasket/seal between the plenum and the turbo. Replace the red seal at the connection of the plenum and the turbo. To remove the plenum loosen each air filter enclosure and the push them off of the plenum moving one left and the other right. unplug the electric connections to the plenum. Loosen the plenum from the turbo. Should come right off now. Replace the red seal. Put it in the correct notches in the plenum and slide it on to the turbo. Make sure it is on the turbo without any of the red seal or kinked, pinched. Be gentle the plastic plenum has become brittle.

After I replaced the PCV I replaced the red seal. The turbo was still sucking oil after the PCA replacement. I think the plenum air leak contributed to that. Now having done all of this the turbo sucks the oil down to about a quarter of an inch above the bottom of the hash mark on the dipstick and stops. So. The engine should run fine on 8.25 quarts. But I still check the oil level and don't fill it all the way up.

Does your Check Engine light come on frequently for other reasons?

Ruan Tecillo

hey thanks for your time in replying. yeah my check engine is on for a 150200 code. it also shows a p0101 on the obd2. so it seems to be something air intake/manifold related. I'll clear engine light when engine is running and it will stay off, but when I restart, it instantly comes back. I checked maf sensors to see if I could find anything obvious but no luck. car runs good for now. the only thing I did notice was that there was some oil in the turbo seal that was comming from the pcv valve hose. my car is in the shop right now getting a power steering oil leak taken care of. but now I have the pcv valve, I will change it soon as I get it.

PSDCampervan

Oil kept showing up underneath turbo seal after replacement of CCV & 'bat wing' MAF intake so decided an oil catch can mounted next to passenger side wheel well will at least move any potential leak away from engine valley area where it could potentially be mistaken for something $$$ to fix like turbo pedestal or oil cooler leak. This engine (w/181,500 m) has obvious blow-by as when I loosen oil-fill cap, it tends to dance around & sling oil everywhere @idle. The oil catch can is working well & catches ~50cc every 500 miles or so & 0 leaks around turbo seal now so I can shine a light down into valley & see both turbo pedestal & channel around base of oil cooler have no more oil pooling around them anymore.The red plug that plumbs into batwing has a tendency to back itself out gradually after many miles so clearly there is a fair amount of positive pressure pushing through catch can circuit during higher RPMs but at least it's leaving the oil in the can now. I bought the catch can on ebay for $30 & paid about $50 @ West Marine for 8 feet of 5/8" 200psi hi-temp rubber hose. I believe it's a worthwhile investment for those dealing with oil showing up under turbo seal. 2 5/8" brass barrel connectors & 4 hose clamps are also required to plumb tubing to CCV which must be cut midway to graft oil catch can by-pass circuit into place.

nilknarf

I had the same issue with my 2008 ML320 CDI. After replacing the PCV puck, I still had excessive oil being pulled into the turbo. I recently pulled the intakes in order to replace the oil cooler seals and the amount of oil based gunk in the ports from was shocking. That puck doesn't seem to do its job very well, so now I've also installed a Provent 200 in front of the fuse box.

Enrique Falcon

Hello Gents,

My check engine light went on and the error code my tester gave me was P0101 MAF air flow sensor.
I began by changing the air filters which were very dirty. I also cleaned both sensors very well. In the process I found oil in the entrance to the turbo.
Yet the check engine light still on and the error code is the same.
Do you think that a defective A642 010 1891 secondary air injection control valve would cause this error ?

Thanks in advance for your help

Ruan Tecillo

these cars unique and fun to drive, but will probably require the most time/resources than any car you have owned or will own. but there are ways to offset spending. I would start by obtaining an obd tool than can read past obd codes. you have an underlying code beneath the generic p0101 that must be addressed..Mercedes has thousands of more unique and descriptive codes. ex. 150200...if you have this car it is necessary to own your own a good diagnostic tool, as codes will show many times over course of ownership and trouble shooting will be required. also dont be intimidated doing your own maintenance as the local shop or euro shop guy ain't gonna do much better than you if at all; as I have come to find....I purchased my own star system diagnostic setup from overseas and spent under 400 for it with the used Ebay Dell laptop...this is necessary as you will soon find out that even if you fix the problem, the mil light wont go away because of adaptations, offsets, calibrations, parameters that must relearned but only after you tell it via the diagnostic system to do so. shop charges 200 for star system diagnostic alone. even after you change air filters, you must go into the system and tell it to compensate for this. 90 percent of shops dont know or do this...think of it better of owning a sprinter van not a Benz...sprinter shops are superior, more knowledgeable, and better equipped in maintaining this vehicle than your standard Benz shop. in short you might have already fixed the issue but will never know till you hook it up to a bidirectional diagnostic system...hope this helps. let me if you need more help.

2008 ML 320 CDI

What exactly is the "Star System Diagnostic", where does it plug in, what does it look like and how different is it to an OBDII reader device?

Ruan Tecillo

https://m.obd2tool.com/goods-145-Mb+...caAnv_EALw_wcB

it's what the dealer uses to work on Mercedes vehicles. cost is about $20K, which Is why many independent mechanics dont have. this is what I bought and only after I used it I was able to clear and work on egr, run idle drift, and def system issues that are unavoidable on the w164. came with a hard drive and i purchased a Dell with rs232 port for 40 bucks and system works beautifully.about 400 bucks for everything.a must for the DIY...the car parts are expensive. generic readers only pick up generic p series codes, which dont help with this vehicle. a descent scanner that can read better codes of it runs about 300 like the ancel I purchase but limited since it cant erase adaptation, codes, cals, relearn. etc so in short you need the star system if you have this car.