Lysholm Master

At 135K, I'm pretty sure my shocks are in need of replacement. I couldn't find a DIY thread. Is this a straightforward job, or is this best left for a shop? Mine has the standard suspension, not air.

Maj. Dundee

Please UPDATE YOUR PROFILE in USER CP to include the year, model (gas or diesel) and where you live.

Maj. Dundee

Now please tell us are the shocks for the front or rear and whether or not they are Airmatic.

Lysholm Master

Last sentence clearly states I have standard shocks, not air. If the query was limited to front or rear, I would have said so. At 135K, I assume all four corners need replacement.

justinwrock

The rears are straight forward, you just need to remove some interior bits to get at the top bolts.

The front shocks are in a macpherson arrangement, with the spring/shock coming out as one unit. It's a little more involved - disconnect the top ball joint, disconnect the tie rod end, loosen axle nut, remove caliper and secure, remove speed sensor. Loosen top nuts/remove lower nut. Back off the top nuts completely, remove axle nut, push down on the lower control arm and you should be able to pull the knuckle outward and move the clevis over the axle and control arm, then out of the car. Swap strut cartridge, then reverse the install.

Some notes - be mindful of pulling on the knuckle - the only thing supporting it is the lower ball joint. The MB spring compressor tool makes changing the shocks super fast (worth the $100).

paulg

Did this a couple of months ago.

Reasonably straightforward with no exotic special tools needed. The springs are very strong though, so will need some substantial spring compressors. Use at least 3 on each spring when removing the shock (4 if there's room).

Be careful of pulling the Drive Shaft outwards when levering the shock/spring out, the CVJ can pull apart inside the rubber boots and the ***** will fall out of the cage. Ask me how I know.

Can be re-assembled easily enough, but it's greasy and fiddly.

The difference in ride/handling makes it all worthwhile, I would say that most drivers would notice the improvement with as little as 50,000 miles on the old ones.. Money well spent.

I put Sachs shocks on the front, but cheapened-out and put Monroe on the back. So far, all working smoothly and quietly..

justinwrock

I'm actually thinking of pulling my axles this go-round to replace my ball joints. Don't feel like taking any chances on the CV joint coming apart, and it pretty quick to remove.

Maj. Dundee

Yes you are correct, I missed the last sentence.

Automotive_buff

@Lysholm Master and for anyone trying this, hope these help. It's pretty straight forward. If you need anything else, tell me. Good luck!

Lysholm Master

Thanks for posting the repair info!

My shocks show no visible fluid leaks, so I don't know for sure that they need replacement, but I assume at 135K, they must be at the end of or past their useful service life. Stick with factory shocks, or go with aftermarket (e.g., Bilstein, etc.)?

Automotive_buff

I'm assuming 135k miles, is that correct? (I'm Canadian)

As for the make of the shocks.... I can't tell you. Mine is due for replacement and I'm at around 70 or 80k miles (Ottawa, ON/ Gatineau, QC roads are riddled with potholes, gouges, debris, etc). So far I've gone with dealer parts only as they're pretty cheap; I've been replacing my balance shaft and it's been reasonable.

Maybe some of the other members can tell you what to invest in/avoid when it comes to shocks. Also if the dealer shocks are reasonable compared to the aftermarket parts bin then go for the dealer option.


That's just my long-winded 2 cents.

paulg

Based on my experience with this and other cars, if the shocks are older than say, 40,000 miles they will not be controlling the movement of the body as well as the designers intended (even if they're not leaking).

As we know, MLs have a LOT of body to control. If you DIY, changing shocks is a cheap way of being able to drive hard on normal, bumpy roads, and at the same time keep it right-way-up....