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08' ML550, ML 63, E55, and 2019 S63, 19’ Porsche 991 911 Speedster
Oil consumption m273 ML 550 143k miles.
I have noticed in owning this ML since birth, that at around 100k I started to get “check oil level at next full up”. Needles to say I know they burn oil not sure of similar instructions on finding out where it’s going and why, but what I am am doing to figure out why it’s burning about a quart to quart and half a week. Sometimes I’m low even more when I check. It seems to be burning during highway driving at or around 65-80mph which is my commute daily speeds. So mostly highway and idling in gridlock.
Dealer says it is normal. I find that intriguing and rather to simple a response I get from so-called experts on these Mercedes’ 550 motors.
08' ML550, ML 63, E55, and 2019 S63, 19’ Porsche 991 911 Speedster
Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Have you put your ML on a lift and checked for oil leaks?
hey Dundee, yea it’s been up in air recently and did not find any leaks in or oil pan, however the mechanic did seem to know something about or said he did that these pans can leak and need to replace or something to that matter. I didn’t notice any leaks. I think the engine is burning an excess of oil, and I’m trying to chase down why and the where of its needing that much oil in a short period of time.
I could be wrong. Just wondering if it’s a normal consumption rate or if I should keep a log of miles vs amount of oil I put in?
This may be a good opportunity to try one of those snake oils like the BG engine restorer. It supposedly cleans your piston rings which may be sludged causing some of your oil consumption.
08' ML550, ML 63, E55, and 2019 S63, 19’ Porsche 991 911 Speedster
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
This may be a good opportunity to try one of those snake oils like the BG engine restorer. It supposedly cleans your piston rings which may be sludged causing some of your oil consumption.
No, MB doesn't recommend any aftermarket treatment products.
My ML350 has 172k miles and doesn't use any oil between my 5k interval oil changes with the oem (mann) filter and Mobil1 5w/40
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; Feb 27, 2021 at 04:34 PM.
08' ML550, ML 63, E55, and 2019 S63, 19’ Porsche 991 911 Speedster
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
No, MB doesn't recommend any aftermarket treatment products.
My ML350 has 172k miles and doesn't use any oil between my 5k interval oil changes with the oem (mann) filter and Mobil1 5w/40
yea I’m reluctant to go and put anything other than what Mb recommend and I use SAE Full Synthetic Mobil 1 5w-20, and Mann filter - per your post, why 5k mile intervals? That’s not what MB says. They say 6-10k ?
seems awfully expensive to be doing changes every 5k unless it’s DIY maybe.
Per the posts question, as the oil does not seem to be burning on startup or during driving I cannot see if smell it or found any leaks. Still waiting for some insights on this for lack of better term.
Last edited by 2008ml550_0104; Feb 27, 2021 at 04:39 PM.
yea I’m reluctant to go and put anything other than what Mb recommend and I use SAE Full Synthetic Mobil 1 5w-20, and Mann filter - per your post, why 5k mile intervals? That’s not what MB says. They say 6-10k ?
seems awfully expensive to be doing changes every 5k unless it’s DIY maybe.
Per the posts question, as the oil does not seem to be burning on startup or during driving I cannot see if smell it or found any leaks. Still waiting for some insights on this for lack of better term.
I do my own oil changes, and own 5 Mercedes so the 5k miles on my ML350 is one year of driving. 5w-20 is awfully thin. Do you live in the arctic circle? I'd switch to a heavier oil and see if your consumption improves.
08' ML550, ML 63, E55, and 2019 S63, 19’ Porsche 991 911 Speedster
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
I do my own oil changes, and own 5 Mercedes so the 5k miles on my ML350 is one year of driving. 5w-20 is awfully thin. Do you live in the arctic circle? I'd switch to a heavier oil and see if your consumption improves.
Yea, I’ve own a few (M156, m176, M273 - the one in question); MB recommends and dealer also said to put 5w-20 but given the higher likelihood the weight is too low and mileage is at 141k this might be a good idea. I will report back with consumption after full B service and the oil filter. No, I live in NW Chicago suburbs, but close enough .....
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Intake cleaning with a solvent will free up the rings too. CRC GDI Cleaner is top notch, with 200x the PEA in Techron. Any kind of "Seafoaming" treatment will help out.Water is supposedly the best intake cleaner, I'm not sure but don't use too much.
I use a bit of 2-cycle oil in my gas at 500:1, no burning issues but it could help out up to 5-6oz per 10 gallons.Run a gallon or two of E85 if you can, it will clean like crazy.
PCV malfunction can lead to consumption too, unrelated to the rings.
Generally, I prefer 2 changes of normal oil verses one change of spec oil for roughly the same cost. 6 month intervals of nice Hi-Miles oil like Maxlife 10w-40 and then some 5w-30 in winter is better than a whole year of spec oil. Leave the filter alone after 5000 miles it's perfectly fine. I own 4 Mercedes now, so I'm not uptight about spec oil other than with a turbo application. There is no substitute for physically draining the worn oil and contaminates out. Most oil and it's additives are the same chemically despite marketing. If I had to pick one it would be Castrol Edge 0w-40 w/Titanium additives and full spec approval.
Try some thick summertime 15w-40 HD truck oil like Rotella or Delo and see if you still burn any, I doubt it. The 10w-30 HD versions of these oils are excellent, super-robust and help clean the engine. Good past 5000 miles, but cheap enough to just keep changing it.
I'm buying a 2009 ML 350 with 100k and my first OC will be cheap truck oil....for a reason, cleaning. Mobil 1300S 15w-40 is the smoothest running oil ever.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Originally Posted by 2008ml550_0104
yea I’m reluctant to go and put anything other than what Mb recommend and I use SAE Full Synthetic Mobil 1 5w-20, and Mann filter - per your post, why 5k mile intervals? That’s not what MB says. They say 6-10k ?
seems awfully expensive to be doing changes every 5k unless it’s DIY maybe.
.
No wonder you are burning oil, 5w-20 ? Who told you to run that? You can cause excess wear to the rings....
Show me the 5w-20 that has MB approval, you can't. Spec requires a HT/HS visc of 3.5cP @ +150C, 5w-20 is about 2.6cP .a heavy 30 weight makes spec.
Last edited by Audi Junkie; Mar 1, 2021 at 10:04 AM.
08' ML550, ML 63, E55, and 2019 S63, 19’ Porsche 991 911 Speedster
Originally Posted by Audi Junkie
No wonder you are burning oil, 5w-20 ? Who told you to run that? You can cause excess wear to the rings....
Show me the 5w-20 that has MB approval, you can't. Spec requires a HT/HS visc of 3.5cP @ +150C, 5w-20 is about 2.6cP .a heavy 30 weight makes spec.
matter of fact it was Motorwerks service department. Largest Mercedes dealer in the Midwest. Go figure.
after doing my diligence, this is what I found. Along with your info and some simple knowable things now, I will let you know how things are going.
on a side note, I’m glad you brought up the carbon issues. This I hear is a big prob with the m273’s and might explain why I feel I’m down on power.
many thanks in advance, could you provide more specific details on how to remove these affected areas if I wanted to tackle the job myself! Or were you just saying run some different fuel ie., the E85???? Please advise
08' ML550, ML 63, E55, and 2019 S63, 19’ Porsche 991 911 Speedster
[
I'm buying a 2009 ML 350 with 100k and my first OC will be cheap truck oil....for a reason, cleaning. Mobil 1300S 15w-40 is the smoothest running oil ever.[/QUOTE]
Good luck with your new ML. Great suvs. My favorite.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
See, those approved 30 weights are thicker EURO 30 weights, that meet the HT/HS of 3.5cP, while the American/Asian 30 weights are thinner at 2.9cP.
The +100C visc of API/ISLAC 30 weights are 10cSt and the Euro 30s are about 12.5cSt, so you can identify them by their published PDS product data sheets. HT/HS isn't always listed, you can infer it from the specs.
This is what I use, as an example. It's a reduced ash oil with low additives....
Lower organo-metallic additives can reduce valve deposits in DI engines, mine is not DI. I was always curious about the 3.5, now I get to learn.Mine has only 60k on a 2010, I pick it up in a few days. Looks like it just had a dealer OC. I forgot to check if it's Flex Fuel. I will still use some E85 in it.
I know I pimped the dino 10w-40 pretty hard, but that's just for non-DI engines. The HD 15w-40 and HD 10w-30 are more ideal for DI.
Basically spray into the running intake with the MAF removed, or someplace downstream of the MAF, like a vacuum fitting. It might harm a hot maf, might not harm an unplugged one...whatever it takes.
Someone has to rev the gas while you spray, but some engines keep running pretty well.
Last edited by Audi Junkie; Mar 1, 2021 at 10:27 PM.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Basically, if you engine burns 15w-40, it's not the oils fault. It's good down to maybe +25F, if you get into the teens or zero, you want 5w-40 or if you have a turbo engine, 0w-40
I like that oil graph, people forget about those. Its' not as useful as it was in the 1970s.Euro engines can actually use API/ISLAC 5w-30 in the extreme cold, especially doing short trip driving. The Euro specs have a big buffer for heating up the oil on the Autobahn for hours, Americans don't drive to heat up the oil, so thinner oil works fine. I can answer any specific questions.
imo, Maxlife 10w-40 or 10w-30 HD are pretty ideal for 6000 miles, if you want to go longer, use synth. I have a bunch of Rotella 5w-40 and QS 10w-40 back home. The Rotella will run longer, better in cold, and clean better, but if I am doing a few short changes anyway, $10/jug QS 10w-40 is good too. I use an oil extractor, highly recommended. I have the EWK from Amazon, I use it a lot.
Last edited by Audi Junkie; Mar 1, 2021 at 10:59 PM.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
VW 504 is the top spec, but expensive. MB 229.5 is the top spec for fully additized oils like we are used to. The PZ Euro L 5w-30 I listed is someplace inbetween those 2. I would guess it's very close to 504 quality, but that is a tough test protocol and the oil company PAYS to use the approval, like a licence.
So you can have excellent oils, like AMSoil or Redline or even Rotella 5w-40 that would pass a megar spec like VW 502 or MB 229.3, but the oil doesn't carry the spec for marketing and other reasons. iirc, it's $500k for a 3yr VW 502 licence. ANyone can get into the spec oil business, just order the approved additive pack from a mfg like Lubrizol, bottle it and put a label on....don't forget the spec licence fee. People think 100 different ma and pa shops are tinkering away to make "the best" oil and MB will approve it based on merit, lol no.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
My buddy had a Yukon from new at like 140k it's finally giving up the air suspension. He just bought a new Q3.
I have a GLA, CLK 500 Cabrio, Metris, C240 Wagon that is getting pushed off a clif to make room for the ML. I did want a newer model, but it's too big for my tastes....plus I have the van already. I don't want cars to compete with each other. I got the C240 for my Florida car, it has been very good, but I'm ready for a beater/dogmobile upgrade.
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