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Same thoughts here. I like the vehicle. But it has potential to be a money-pit. Big question mark comes from how the vehicle was taken care of by previous owner. I am probably the 4th owner and my mate was probably the 3rd owner. If I will have a decision later on, most likely the replacement will be a W166 M-class SUV. Still within budget and still fits my need.
Same thoughts here. I like the vehicle. But it has potential to be a money-pit. Big question mark comes from how the vehicle was taken care of by previous owner. I am probably the 4th owner and my mate was probably the 3rd owner. If I will have a decision later on, most likely the replacement will be a W166 M-class SUV. Still within budget and still fits my need.
Where abouts in Adelaide are you?
Happy to help you out with Star/Das if you want.
Let me know if you're interested in a 370mm front break upgrade. I'm downgrading a GL to 350mm, so have some parts.
To your question, they cost more to keep running than they are worth. But it needs to be put in the context that you get a lot of car for almost nothing. If you want to keep it nice and luxurious, then you need to spend money on it, but also need to treat it as a running cost.
Let me know if you're interested in a 370mm front break upgrade. I'm downgrading a GL to 350mm, so have some parts.
To your question, they cost more to keep running than they are worth. But it needs to be put in the context that you get a lot of car for almost nothing. If you want to keep it nice and luxurious, then you need to spend money on it, but also need to treat it as a running cost.
you from adelaide as well? I am in Modbury area. To date, I have spent about $2,000 in service parts and tools. I do plan to keep it and it will cost money. Luckily, the missus has already given me some budget to spend.
I do plan to grab new rotors, pads, and maybe caliper. My brakes are just bad. Just went to the dealership for the brake booster recall and they were useless. Brakes still losing vacuum.
you from adelaide as well? I am in Modbury area. To date, I have spent about $2,000 in service parts and tools. I do plan to keep it and it will cost money. Luckily, the missus has already given me some budget to spend.
I do plan to grab new rotors, pads, and maybe caliper. My brakes are just bad. Just went to the dealership for the brake booster recall and they were useless. Brakes still losing vacuum.
Burnside.
i have a new set of rotors and brake pads. I also will have the calipers and caliper holder to suit 370 front set up. You do need 19” wheels at a minimum to run them.
If you plan to play with a Mercedes for awhile it is worth getting the xentry/das tool. I can help you out, but you need a laptop with the software, then the hardware to connect to obd2 port. You can do it different ways and costs.
i have a new set of rotors and brake pads. I also will have the calipers and caliper holder to suit 370 front set up. You do need 19” wheels at a minimum to run them.
If you plan to play with a Mercedes for awhile it is worth getting the xentry/das tool. I can help you out, but you need a laptop with the software, then the hardware to connect to obd2 port. You can do it different ways and costs.
Previous owner downgraded to 17" rims. He mentioned original rims kept cracking.
I might need xentry in the future. But for now, I am focusing on some TLC and making sure the car doesn't breakdown in the middle of nowhere.
Next things to do will be drivetrain service. The fluids are ready. Waiting for a free weekend and the trans service kit. Will private message you. Air cleaner and cabin filter were chockers. Full of leaves, insects, and gumnuts.
Last edited by DLB_Adelaide; Mar 20, 2023 at 10:45 PM.
Here it comes. A big order from idparts about $650 (AUD). Current TLC spent on car about $2000 (AUD). I mentioned buying the ML320 at below market price but I do plan on showing it some TLC. I plan to keep it short term and sell after 5years. Once it has served its purpose.
$2000 total so far. All values below in AUD
$650 from idparts USA
$550 on fluids (engine, steer, diff, trans)
$300 on filters
$200 on tail light harness
$200 on workshop tools (fluid transfer pump)
$100 on miscellanous (sprays, grease, silicone sealants, rags, brake cleaner, degreaser) No turning back
yep, only time will tell whether I made a big mistake or it was all worthwhile. One year from now, that will be my first milestone. Plan to keep this 5years and reassess. I will constantly update this thread for any activities with the ML320.
Done diff front, diff rear, and transfer case; oils. MB235.7 and MB236.14/15. Was wondering if there would be a haldex-like filter in the transfer case but couldnt find any filter housing. I would have done the trans oil if the filter plus gasket arrived. Something for next time.
Next:
Planning to o inspect REAR SAM and see if water damage has set. Previously thought as tail light contact plate problem.
Ready to dispose responsibly in the workshop. Boot struts inside box and replaced as well. New API GL5 oil (MB 235.7) on the left and barely visible. Old oil on the right is burnt. Front diff plugs, 8mm hex (keys preferred for rear) Recycling every bit of that expensive API GL5 oil (MB 235.7)
Some of the prices you paid look like you couldve saved some money on a few parts. Run Auto Parts, Sparesbox and FCP Euro best places to find parts. I do all of my maintenance on my ML500 and source stuff ahead of schedule when sales are on. Good savings are available.
If your doing the trans, check to see if you have a drain plug for the torque converter. Otherwise your only draining half of fluid.
I assume you don't have airmatic. That's a bonus as its problematic.
Some of the prices you paid look like you couldve saved some money on a few parts. Run Auto Parts, Sparesbox and FCP Euro best places to find parts. I do all of my maintenance on my ML500 and source stuff ahead of schedule when sales are on. Good savings are available.
If your doing the trans, check to see if you have a drain plug for the torque converter. Otherwise your only draining half of fluid.
I assume you don't have airmatic. That's a bonus as its problematic.
I am in Australia. There is no FCP euro nor run auto parts. However, there is a sparesbox but their stock is limited. Say for example, I purchased the upgraded PCV orange gasket. I couldn't find that here in Australia. Hence, I ordered the whole assembly as one. I chose idparts since it was easy to browse and they list down the OEM part# for reference. But you may be right. The other online sellers might be cheaper.
I am also waiting for the torque converter bolt to arrive with my order from idparts, along with the gasket. If I am right, I need to turn engine clockwise until I can see the torque converter drain inside the bell housing. Total oil to drain should be 11L of trans oil??
I believe in the KISS principle to keep it simple. I am thankful my OM642 doesn't have dpf nor airmatic. These two components would only be another problem to fix. All my previous cars were petrol and non-turbo. Since the turbo is just another component that will break. I loved my boring cars. Took me to work without breaking down. This w164 is the missus since she can fit three car seats in the second row. Trust me, we had a good number of wagons and SUVs before and this w164 is probably the first to fit three car seats. Thus, she wants to keep it.
EDIT:
Didn't notice you were Melbourne.
Last edited by DLB_Adelaide; Mar 24, 2023 at 06:02 AM.
Some of the prices you paid look like you couldve saved some money on a few parts. Run Auto Parts, Sparesbox and FCP Euro best places to find parts. I do all of my maintenance on my ML500 and source stuff ahead of schedule when sales are on. Good savings are available.
I also rate spareto.com not as good selection on parts, but some are really cheap. Shipping is expensive, but quick.
I am in Australia. There is no FCP euro nor run auto parts. However, there is a sparesbox but their stock is limited. Say for example, I purchased the upgraded PCV orange gasket. I couldn't find that here in Australia. Hence, I ordered the whole assembly as one. I chose idparts since it was easy to browse and they list down the OEM part# for reference. But you may be right. The other online sellers might be cheaper.
I am also waiting for the torque converter bolt to arrive with my order from idparts, along with the gasket. If I am right, I need to turn engine clockwise until I can see the torque converter drain inside the bell housing. Total oil to drain should be 11L of trans oil??
I believe in the KISS principle to keep it simple. I am thankful my OM642 doesn't have dpf nor airmatic. These two components would only be another problem to fix. All my previous cars were petrol and non-turbo. Since the turbo is just another component that will break. I loved my boring cars. Took me to work without breaking down. This w164 is the missus since she can fit three car seats in the second row. Trust me, we had a good number of wagons and SUVs before and this w164 is probably the first to fit three car seats. Thus, she wants to keep it.
EDIT:
Didn't notice you were Melbourne.
Thanks for the input. I now have an alternative parts store. I searched run auto parts for the PCV. They did have it but on special order. List price as $242.00 might include shipping nationwide. Idparts listed this at usd$108 or aud$167. Factor in $50 for shipment and it isnt far off run auto parts. Might purchase from run if single purchase. But might go FCP or idparts if bulk. I have subscribed to freight forwarding to bring down costs.
Thanks for the input. I now have an alternative parts store. I searched run auto parts for the PCV. They did have it but on special order. List price as $242.00 might include shipping nationwide. Idparts listed this at usd$108 or aud$167. Factor in $50 for shipment and it isnt far off run auto parts. Might purchase from run if single purchase. But might go FCP or idparts if bulk. I have subscribed to freight forwarding to bring down costs.
That PLUS the other end all the way to the turbo gasket and clamp. Pretty much the whole assembly. I have the old style pink gasket/seal which can get sucked into the turbo. Wanted to replace the whole assembly since PCV is seized. See below.
I went with aliexpress for the PCV. It was about $100. I think it is worth replacing the regularly (every 2nd oil change) as it is pretty accessible.
I also replaced the camshaft seal/housing where it connects into (genuine). Apparently the seal can wear, which will then short-circuit the separator on the end of the camshaft.
I went with aliexpress for the PCV. It was about $100. I think it is worth replacing the regularly (every 2nd oil change) as it is pretty accessible.
I also replaced the camshaft seal/housing where it connects into (genuine). Apparently the seal can wear, which will then short-circuit the separator on the end of the camshaft.
I plan to just plug the turbo-side pcv pipe and reroute the PCV into a catch can. Drain once a month. It will now be a perma-open crankcase vent. But who knows, this might be a bad idea.
Are you looking at egr delete, or do you have a dpf?
oil return isn’t as much of a problem as the carbon return.
mine came factory dpf free. A previous owner had put a catch can, but removed it. He also did silicon T piece mod, which didn’t work as it is impossible to seal and it dripped oil. Ive put it back to stock batwing with upgraded turbo seal.
I went with aliexpress for the PCV. It was about $100. I think it is worth replacing the regularly (every 2nd oil change) as it is pretty accessible.
I also replaced the camshaft seal/housing where it connects into (genuine). Apparently the seal can wear, which will then short-circuit the separator on the end of the camshaft.
Replacing every two oil changes could be overkill? Depends on how much blowby you might have. I just loosen the tube attached to the valve assembly and look for oil/soot. My petrol M273 has 160k and Ive not yet had to change it.
Are you looking at egr delete, or do you have a dpf?
oil return isn’t as much of a problem as the carbon return.
mine came factory dpf free. A previous owner had put a catch can, but removed it. He also did silicon T piece mod, which didn’t work as it is impossible to seal and it dripped oil. Ive put it back to stock batwing with upgraded turbo seal.
my OM642 doesn’t have a dpf, luckily. My PCV is original from factory (16 year old car). It will be worth replacing.
UPDATES:
Investigated my REAR SAM since brake lights didn’t work. Found out some transistors are fried. Originally thought as bad contact on plates. ECU refurbish costs $450 in Australia but brand new is at $1200.
Performed trans service oil and filter. Filled in 10L and allowed 500ml to drain
Did a roadtest and noticed noise like something loose from under seats. Might be front diff play. Since previous post showed burnt oil. Plus end-play on input shaft. Could be wrong.
Will upload pics of trans service later
Trans service
Last edited by DLB_Adelaide; Apr 2, 2023 at 11:38 PM.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
