Turn key all lights come on everything electrical works fine. Turn key to start, total silence, no clicks just silence.
In the past (E320) it was the ignition
recent MB battery, jumping changed nothing. I have no scanner so can not read codes.
Normally when it is a started problem there is some kind of noise but again no noise at all
Just in case it is something ya'll have had and I could check LMK otherwise it gets towed to my indy

 

Turns out it is the anti-theft module on the transmission which shorted. There are only 2 left in inventory in the world.
Repair minimum $1500.00 with no guarantee the ignition is OK which would add $1100.00 if not.
These are starting prices not end quotes.
I am mulling scraping the vehicle and pulling parts off it and having it junked. I can pull the nice interior, entertainment, modules, tail lights , wheels and tires and various small parts then having it hauled off.
Too bad it drove so nicely

 

Sorry to hear. Can you use a used module? I’m assuming a dealer would need to flash which probably negates the savings. 🤷‍♂️

 

It has to be programed to my VIN # and can not be used on any other vehicle once that has happened. Mech says ignition is fine so I either junk the car or payout $1500.00.

It would be better to pay it and sell the car as my loss would be much less. Mechanically it drives and brakes straight, engine is smooth as is the trany, everything works as it should I just hate to have too much money in the vehicle based on its value..
Rock meet hard place

 

So sad. Something similar happened on my S class. Car drove great and interior was flawless until it wouldn't start anymore. I was faced with a pricey decision that wasn't a guaranteed fix. Two different Benz specialist that work together had a hard time figuring out the issue. Car was in the shop like 2 weeks. 30+ years of MB automotive experience and I had them stumped. I even hit up a few youtube MB master mechanics and all the recommendations they made my mechanic already tried.

I ended up taking a huge loss and selling the car on craigslist as a mechanic special. Terrible day.

 

That is a bummer. My thinking is I look for a lower mileage ML350 and after getting this fixed sell it at a loss but for more than a mechanic's special

I am just guessing if that is the right decision but your S problems were worse than mine (IMO)

 

It was older model (2006) but in fantastic condition. That's why I was able to get a mechanic to buy it and take on the challenge. He was sold on the condition of the car. It really looked like it came off the assembly line. I just couldn't spend $3000 on a "fix" with my fingers crossed hoping it would solve my problem. They said it was a 60/40 chance and I decided to part ways. Oh well.

Look at the 2015 ML. I hear it's just as bullet proof as the 2010/2011 model.

 

Buy a wrecked car, and swap the conductor plate*, shift servo (ISM), ignition switch, fob(s), central locking ECU and engine ECU.

Car will then run and drive just fine.

You might get away without the conductor plate, but I suspect it is considered a theft relevant part.

The important thing is that EVERYTHING comes from a single vehicle. And you simply swap your existing key blade into the "new" key. Also ensure that you make a secure note of the VIN of the donor car.

Note that you will have VIN mismatch codes in various other modules, but these aren't relevant to the driveability of the car.

 

Thanks, but that is way above my pay grade

 

The conductor plate is the only real pita. The rest is doable on the drive.

Someone like JandJ auto wrecking might be able to help if you can't/don't want to acquire a whole spare car.

Have done similar repairs on a W220 to good effect, although the older cars are lot easier to deal with.

 

Sorry to hear this. Do you kniw what codes you got to highlight the transmission problem? Thanks

 

What do you mean by "the anti theft module" on the transmission?

There's two ECUs on the trans. One is the conductor plate, tother is the shift servo module on the side of the trans.

Both of these are vin coded to the key, ignition switch, engine ECU and possibly the remote locking module. Basically everything that is marked as a Theft Relevant Part.

Your repair options are either replace the module with a new one and have it programmed or buy a complete module set from a single vehicle and retrofit it to the car.

 

Misspoke. It is the shift servo module. Took a lot longer to program, kept failing. Finally a call to Analland AKA Germany and they eventually got it squared.

As my indy said it actually works very well but like most things German it is overengineered

Back up and running.

I do not have any plug in so am ignorant on codes.
Is there a reasonably priced device I should get that would help me when I need to know the what and wherefore?

 

Glad to hear it👍

Icarsoft is pretty handy for a general MB code reader for ~€150. It won't program but it will see all the modules.

DAS/Xentry can be bought for ~€1,200.

EPC/WIS software is readily available too for ~€50

 

Having recently investigated repairs to my front sam, these sorts of guys are pretty talented. It'd have to be worth asking if they could have a go at the immobiliser module?

 

Nice idea, but there isn't a single immobiliser module. All the security coding is in the following:

Key
Ignition
Engine
Gearbox
Gear selector

Any one piece gets corrupted or switched out for a unit already programmed and the whole thing shuts down.

 

Drove home stopped at store restarted fine. Got home loaded up the SUV for Saturday's gun show, Saturday won't start, red screen go to workshop tranny will\not shift
Unload ML put stuff in E350 Coupe go show call mech. He will come get it and will figure it out. Not upset Scheise happens

 

Won't shift as in stuck in park or drives but stuck in 4th?

There's a difference.

 

In park. Try to start car it won't start. One time (only 1) red screen said go t workshop will not shift but it was dark and I am unsure exactly what it said I may be wrong but something along the lines of going to workshop transmission won't shift
Mech will be in medical procedure till Wednesday and will send tow then. Safe in driveway certainly not going anywhere

 

Will it go into neutral?

If yes, does it then start?

It's possible that when they fitted the shift module, they didn't align it correctly or the mounting bolts are loose and it has shifted.

The gearbox is the same as in cars with a floor mounted shifter, ie the SL, the difference is that it's an electronic servo which moves the selector rather than the linkage from the shift lever, so the servo (shift module) puts out a reasonable amount of torque. If it's not tight, then the module can move as it operates and once it is out of alignment then the selector rod won't be in the correct place for it to start.

The fact that you have been able to use the car after the initial repair points to a simple mechanical fault rather than an electrical one.

 

Last night I was not sure if I locked the ML so I clicked lock from the window. Nothing. I went to the vehicle key won't work (no LED flash) Key battery fine but I replace it. No LED, go to ML car is completely dark. No LEDs in car on (alarm red lights etc) nothing on.
I will manually unlock it when I get home this afternoon.

 

Will not go into neutral. Will not start, car has gone dark, no alarm no electric nothing. Mech says please leave it alone he will get it Wednesday and figure it out.
I was able to manually open the door and get stuff out including the tow attachment so they can drag it up the flatbed, again LOL

 

Just pay to fix it, she's served you well all these years. Give back the love and get her back on the road

 

Bought it a year ago hardly served me well.
Towed to shop, module disconnected but large draw which deaded both batteries so mech will now track down. I can't wait to see what is next

 

My bad, didn't know you just bought it. thought you owned it since 2010.