2010 ML 350 won't start
In the past (E320) it was the ignition
recent MB battery, jumping changed nothing. I have no scanner so can not read codes.
Normally when it is a started problem there is some kind of noise but again no noise at all
Just in case it is something ya'll have had and I could check LMK otherwise it gets towed to my indy
Repair minimum $1500.00 with no guarantee the ignition is OK which would add $1100.00 if not.
These are starting prices not end quotes.
I am mulling scraping the vehicle and pulling parts off it and having it junked. I can pull the nice interior, entertainment, modules, tail lights , wheels and tires and various small parts then having it hauled off.
Too bad it drove so nicely
Repair minimum $1500.00 with no guarantee the ignition is OK which would add $1100.00 if not.
These are starting prices not end quotes.
I am mulling scraping the vehicle and pulling parts off it and having it junked. I can pull the nice interior, entertainment, modules, tail lights , wheels and tires and various small parts then having it hauled off.
Too bad it drove so nicely
It would be better to pay it and sell the car as my loss would be much less. Mechanically it drives and brakes straight, engine is smooth as is the trany, everything works as it should I just hate to have too much money in the vehicle based on its value..
Rock meet hard place
Repair minimum $1500.00 with no guarantee the ignition is OK which would add $1100.00 if not.
These are starting prices not end quotes.
I am mulling scraping the vehicle and pulling parts off it and having it junked. I can pull the nice interior, entertainment, modules, tail lights , wheels and tires and various small parts then having it hauled off.
Too bad it drove so nicely
I ended up taking a huge loss and selling the car on craigslist as a mechanic special. Terrible day.
I am just guessing if that is the right decision but your S problems were worse than mine (IMO)
Look at the 2015 ML. I hear it's just as bullet proof as the 2010/2011 model.
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Car will then run and drive just fine.
You might get away without the conductor plate, but I suspect it is considered a theft relevant part.
The important thing is that EVERYTHING comes from a single vehicle. And you simply swap your existing key blade into the "new" key. Also ensure that you make a secure note of the VIN of the donor car.
Note that you will have VIN mismatch codes in various other modules, but these aren't relevant to the driveability of the car.
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Someone like JandJ auto wrecking might be able to help if you can't/don't want to acquire a whole spare car.
Have done similar repairs on a W220 to good effect, although the older cars are lot easier to deal with.




Repair minimum $1500.00 with no guarantee the ignition is OK which would add $1100.00 if not.
These are starting prices not end quotes.
I am mulling scraping the vehicle and pulling parts off it and having it junked. I can pull the nice interior, entertainment, modules, tail lights , wheels and tires and various small parts then having it hauled off.
Too bad it drove so nicely
There's two ECUs on the trans. One is the conductor plate, tother is the shift servo module on the side of the trans.
Both of these are vin coded to the key, ignition switch, engine ECU and possibly the remote locking module. Basically everything that is marked as a Theft Relevant Part.
Your repair options are either replace the module with a new one and have it programmed or buy a complete module set from a single vehicle and retrofit it to the car.
As my indy said it actually works very well but like most things German it is overengineered
Back up and running.
I do not have any plug in so am ignorant on codes.
Is there a reasonably priced device I should get that would help me when I need to know the what and wherefore?
Icarsoft is pretty handy for a general MB code reader for ~€150. It won't program but it will see all the modules.
DAS/Xentry can be bought for ~€1,200.
EPC/WIS software is readily available too for ~€50




Key
Ignition
Engine
Gearbox
Gear selector
Any one piece gets corrupted or switched out for a unit already programmed and the whole thing shuts down.
Unload ML put stuff in E350 Coupe go show call mech. He will come get it and will figure it out. Not upset Scheise happens
Unload ML put stuff in E350 Coupe go show call mech. He will come get it and will figure it out. Not upset Scheise happens
There's a difference.
Mech will be in medical procedure till Wednesday and will send tow then. Safe in driveway certainly not going anywhere
If yes, does it then start?
It's possible that when they fitted the shift module, they didn't align it correctly or the mounting bolts are loose and it has shifted.
The gearbox is the same as in cars with a floor mounted shifter, ie the SL, the difference is that it's an electronic servo which moves the selector rather than the linkage from the shift lever, so the servo (shift module) puts out a reasonable amount of torque. If it's not tight, then the module can move as it operates and once it is out of alignment then the selector rod won't be in the correct place for it to start.
The fact that you have been able to use the car after the initial repair points to a simple mechanical fault rather than an electrical one.
I will manually unlock it when I get home this afternoon.
I was able to manually open the door and get stuff out including the tow attachment so they can drag it up the flatbed, again LOL
Towed to shop, module disconnected but large draw which deaded both batteries so mech will now track down. I can't wait to see what is next






