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I am wanting to change the fluid in the transfer case and differentials on my ML320 W164. What is the best fluid to use for these while planning for a tune that willl add 100hp?
9264033[/url]]I am wanting to change the fluid in the transfer case and differentials on my ML320 W164. What is the best fluid to use for these while planning for a tune that willl add 100hp?
I used MB ATF 001989680318 in my transfer case and 75W90 full synthetic Liqui-Moly in my front & rear diffs. I’ve got an ML63 so not sure if there are differences in the hardware though.
I am wanting to change the fluid in the transfer case and differentials on my ML320 W164. What is the best fluid to use for these while planning for a tune that willl add 100hp?
Transfer case takes automatic transmission fluid. You can use shell 134 (red), fuchs, etc...anything that is 236.14 approved.
differential fluid takes 75w85 gear oil. You need 2 bottles.
What year is your car?
go to fcpeuro.com and search available fluids there.....
The front diffs on early W164s had bearing wear problems. MB changed the spec on the fluid in later years to try and offset it so hunt around and do some research to find the spec. From memory the rear diff spec remained unchanged.
The front diffs on early W164s had bearing wear problems. MB changed the spec on the fluid in later years to try and offset it so hunt around and do some research to find the spec. From memory the rear diff spec remained unchanged.
I looked on WIS for my '07 ML and it was the same spec as my '10 R 350 4matic, which is what I typed in my last post for what it's worth😉
I looked on WIS for my '07 ML and it was the same spec as my '10 R 350 4matic, which is what I typed in my last post for what it's worth😉
Mine is a 2008 ML320 CDI. I just did the transmission pan upgrade to the deeper pan. The fluid was blue in the transmission. Does this make any difference?
Mine is a 2008 ML320 CDI. I just did the transmission pan upgrade to the deeper pan. The fluid was blue in the transmission. Does this make any difference?
Someone put the wrong fluid in it. Undoing that is going to be expensive.
All the deeper pan does is increase the amount of fluid but it only works if you fit the longer fill tube as well.
Fuchs Titan ATF 4134 was put back in. Is that the correct fluid? Maybe I misunderstood what the guy said at the transmission shop. The kit did come with the long tube filter.
What came out was blue when it was drained. What will happen if it is wrong? I have driven it 150 miles and I haven’t noticed anything wrong.
It left the factory with 236.14 in it, red ATF, the blue stuff is 236.15+ and is a totally different fluid.
I honestly don't know what the short term effects are, but long term new gearbox is a likely outcome.
A quick Google search produced this...
I wouldn't be driving it very far. But you're looking at at least 2 full flushes with filters. Then drop the conductor plate and valve body, strip, and clean both, fit new solenoids then two more full changes. Not forgetting to do the TC at the same time.
If you're lucky the clutches will be ok, if not, rebuild time.
It left the factory with 236.14 in it, red ATF, the blue stuff is 236.15+ and is a totally different fluid.
I honestly don't know what the short term effects are, but long term new gearbox is a likely outcome.
A quick Google search produced this...
I wouldn't be driving it very far. But you're looking at at least 2 full flushes with filters. Then drop the conductor plate and valve body, strip, and clean both, fit new solenoids then two more full changes. Not forgetting to do the TC at the same time.
If you're lucky the clutches will be ok, if not, rebuild time.
I misunderstood the transmission guy. Fuchs ATF 4134 was put in and is red. This is the kit.
The best and only fluid to use is fluid meeting Mercedes specification 235.7 for differentials and Mercedes specification 236.12 for transfer case. This is not same ATF specified for transmission itself.
For the transfer case, you'll require new crush washers for the drain and fill plugs. For the differentials you'll require new drain and fill plugs, which come from Mercedes with o-rings. No metal washers used. Transfer case plugs 25nm. Diff plugs 35nm
You are only asking for trouble seeking advice from "general" mechanics or auto parts stores. Either source fluids from Mercedes dealer or online Euro specialist sellers. Mercedes are apples/oranges different than 'mericun junk and about the only generic anything that's applicable is power steering fluid for 164.
The official maintenance schedule for these vehicles does not specify fluid change ever for differentials or transfer case. On the GL I purchased new in 2007, I changed these fluids at 10 years, 75K miles. The differential fluids drained out looking brand new. The transfer case ATF not so much.
Don't see any indication of backwards compatibility
But, on page 12 of document 231.1 you can note that 236.14 is not approved for any transfer case
I'm sure I put 236.14 in my R350.
This job is on my list for my current ML as I need to replace the chain. I will double check the fluid I have for this as I bought a litre specifically for the job.
You want to tune another 100bhp and presumably a decent amount of additional torque.
How many miles on the car?
You may want to think about replacing the transfer case chain before you stretch the old one if you haven't done so already.
I can personally recommend WIT Transmissions as a legitimate supplier/stockist of the chains😉
I have 130K on it. Was an older couples vehicle they left in Florida for when they visited. I bought it with 97K on it. So far the major issues have been the rack and pinion which I just replaced. The oil cooler seals need to be addressed. I am contemplating on doing this myself. I have rebuilt tractors and jeeps. I am not sure the oil cooler seals are leaking. Whoever serviced the air filters folded the orange gasket that goes between the front of the turbo and the plenum. So oil was puking out the front of the turbo. I replaced the plenum as it was cracked when they shoved it on. It was throwing a MAF sensor code which I actually believe was all due to the gasket. But I replaced the plenum and MAF sensors as I had already bought the parts. I had taken the vehicle to MB they missed the oil coming out the front of the turbo and said $10k for oil coolers and rack and pinion. I got the rack and pinion done for $1800 out the door. I do have a right front SRS code which I was told was either the seat sensor or seat belt. The guy just said it was reading high impedance meaning something was open. I need to buy a code reader that will diagnose and do some programming but am not sure what to buy.
If you want full Xentry then you'll be looking in the region of $1,500.
Can you break it down for me? What will Xentry do that icarsoft won’t? I want to be able to read the codes and clear them. I want it to be detailed enough that I know what part needs to be replaced. I want to do a tune to the vehicle but do not know enough to try it myself.
Can you break it down for me? What will Xentry do that icarsoft won’t? I want to be able to read the codes and clear them. I want it to be detailed enough that I know what part needs to be replaced. I want to do a tune to the vehicle but do not know enough to try it myself.
Xentry is the factory system. It will allow coding for retrofits, software updates and the genuine system allows for use of WIS for in-depth procedures and diagnosis.
ICarsoft will read and clear codes in every module and give live data. It's a handy go to if you don't want or need the factory system😉
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