First oil change at 5K?? Would you?
I will be taking it in for a tire balance and rotation at the same time.
Last edited by GregGebhardt; Apr 24, 2014 at 07:01 AM.
Oil analysis by Blackstone Labs on my cars and others, have proven this to be true time and again. I have also owned cars with maintenance minders which were first developed 30 years ago by GM. These minders contain oil life expectancy gauges that are extremely sophisticated and accurately tell you, based on a number of factors such as engine revolutions and engine temperatures, when your oil should be changed. Most of these are programmed for dino oil and if you use synthetic oil instead you gain even more protection and longer, extended drain intervals.
Having said all this, if peace of mind means changing oil every three months/3000 miles or some such thing like we did in the old days then do so - it won't hurt. But using some sort of X months/X miles is a slap in the face to automobile technological advances and results in being arbitrary and unscientific.
Oil analysis by Blackstone Labs on my cars and others, have proven this to be true time and again. I have also owned cars with maintenance minders which were first developed 30 years ago by GM. These minders contain oil life expectancy gauges that are extremely sophisticated and accurately tell you, based on a number of factors such as engine revolutions and engine temperatures, when your oil should be changed. Most of these are programmed for dino oil and if you use synthetic oil instead you gain even more protection and longer, extended drain intervals.
Having said all this, if peace of mind means changing oil every three months/3000 miles or some such thing like we did in the old days then do so - it won't hurt. But using some sort of X months/X miles is a slap in the face to automobile technological advances and results in being arbitrary and unscientific.
I am asking if the one extra change at 5K is something you would consider and then go to the 10K as recomended. I also realise that it is up to me to decide.
Thanks for your comments!
Also, many diesel pickup truck owners use dino oil to help wear in the piston rings and prevent glazing of the cylinder walls, then switch to synthetic at the second oil change.
All of which is basically folk wisdom, but still, I would stick with MB recommentations.
Also, many diesel pickup truck owners use dino oil to help wear in the piston rings and prevent glazing of the cylinder walls, then switch to synthetic at the second oil change.
All of which is basically folk wisdom, but still, I would stick with MB recommentations.
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I think he is refering to the fact that MB might use some "special" break in oil" and if you change it out before the 10k your break in will not go well.
For me, I am looking for a fish sandwitch and a large glass of milk!
It used to be the oil light only came on with low oil pressure. Your oil could be totally full and the light could come on. At idle speed, that might not be much of a problem, but at anything else you are at least causing more wear if not actual damage. Some cars have both an oil level and an oil pressure sensor and light. Low level, throw a quart in when you get a chance, low pressure, find a mechanic quick.
Have also read a few posts about sludge in some of these engines.
I own my ML so I want to take great care of it. If it were a lease I wouldn't bother.


There was much debate about this at the Honda forums and a lot of speculation about what this secret "break-in" oil was. A couple members, myself included, had Blackstone conduct an oil analysis and it found that the oil in all the samples contained an unusually large amount of the element molybdenum. The amount of moly contained in the samples was much greater than is contained in most store bought oils. This was the only unusual aspect of the oil found during analysis.
Moly is an additive that some (but not all) oil manufactures included to help fight the effects of friction and heat. In a new motor that might be very important, especially if break-in procedure is not followed by the driver. Because of this, I selected Havoline dino for my first oil change because it had a higher moly count at that time than any other otc oil (they since changed the additive pack formula which lowered the moly content). I then went with synthetic oil after that when I was sure the motor was thoroughly broken in.
The debate then centered around whether Honda purposely used high doses of moly as an additive or if the higher than normal count was the result of factory lubes, such as used with coated pistons. We never did resolve that one although the general consensus was that "break-in" oil (at least the one used by Honda) is nothing more than regular oil that is high in molybdenum.
I buy my cars new. I change the oil and filter at 1k miles, 5k miles and every 5k miles thereafter; and have never had a vehicle that used oil between changes. I think this is especially important as the biodiesel percentages continue to be raised and the resultant possibility for engine sludging increases.
But, to each their own.
I buy my cars new. I change the oil and filter at 1k miles, 5k miles and every 5k miles thereafter; and have never had a vehicle that used oil between changes. I think this is especially important as the biodiesel percentages continue to be raised and the resultant possibility for engine sludging increases.
But, to each their own.




