Detailing Secrets - pls post your experiences here
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 204
Likes: 52
From: Calgary
GLE63S 2016
Detailing Secrets - pls post your experiences here
Like many of you, I love to keep my cars detailed.
I know many of you have discovered some great secrets to keeping your car detailed. I was hoping that folks could post their experiences and discovered secrets here.
I'm looking for a product that will keep my tires black and shiny for at least a little while. Most of the products out there tend to fly off the tires and make the car dirty behind the tires. Are there any "good" products out there that work well for tires?
Also - what do folks do for light scratches in their clear coat? Any way to make that right?
I know many of you have discovered some great secrets to keeping your car detailed. I was hoping that folks could post their experiences and discovered secrets here.
I'm looking for a product that will keep my tires black and shiny for at least a little while. Most of the products out there tend to fly off the tires and make the car dirty behind the tires. Are there any "good" products out there that work well for tires?
Also - what do folks do for light scratches in their clear coat? Any way to make that right?
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 619
Likes: 34
From: East part of Texas
2017 CLS550
I have been a detail enthusiast and hobbyist for around fifty years now. I remember waxing my father's 1946 Chev with wool pads and buffing with old bath towels. Much has changed in detailing over the years and since you asked, I'll give you my two cents worth.
For tires, I now use two products: Duragloss 281 because it gives a wet look and is the most water repellent finish for tires I know. When I have a tire that looks better in matte finish, I use Eco Touch Tire Shine. It is not glossy and is cream-like which makes their claim of "conditioning the tire" believable. It is also one of the few "green" detailing products around.
My shampoo is Duragloss 901. It cleans very well, suds up nicely in bucket or foam gun and is bargain priced when bought by the gallon. For my Mercedes I use only a mild clay bar such as Griots medium grade. For my wheels I generally use Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus but the Mother's tire and wheel cleaner is half the price and does nearly as well.
After shampoo and clay I move to another German brand, P21S Paintwork Cleanser, a paint cleaner I use as a prep to applying sealant. This is applied with a Griot Garage 6" electric polisher using a finishing pad (always Lake Country pads). The reason for the machine is to get this worked in well and thin as too much makes it difficult to remove. It does a fantastic job in preparing the paint for wax or sealant. I never have swirls or other problems so I do not use abrasive polishes, only chemical paint cleaners. If I have a light scratch I reach for Meguiar's Scratch X2.0 and it has never let me down. When there is grime, tar or other problem soil I use P21S Total Auto Wash at a 2:1 ratio of water to product. Spray it on the bottom panels and let it sit for a few minutes before washing it off.
If the car needs a last step product such as sealant or wax I let it dry completely after doing the steps I just outlined. Then I use my favorite sealant of all time which also happens to be a German product - Sonax Net Polymer Shield. It is a little difficult to apply and remove but worth it, even if it seems to go better by hand than machine. The gloss and water sheeting is second to none and it lasts a good six months to a year, depending if you have a daily driver or a garage queen. Periodically I give it a "topper" or "booster" using Sonax Brilliant Shine, a spray quick detailer. Although it is considered a QD, it acts more like a spray wax. These are now my favorite products and I almost never have the need for wax. Another reason I like Sonax is that it repels dirt and dust better than anything I have tried.
Although your color may make a difference, I find the Sonax NPS to be the best looking on my Diamond White paint. Another great sealant is Duragloss 111 and gives an even more "candy apple" kind of shine to the paint, if that is what you are looking for. The Sonax is a tad richer and deeper and seems more at home with Diamond White. If I had Arctic White I probably would go with the Duragloss. If you choose the Duragloss sealant be sure to use it in conjunction with Duragloss 601 (bonding agent). And if you do this, your topper should be either Duragloss AquaWax or Wolfgang's Spritz, both will return the paint to a beautiful finish between details although the protection they afford will be short lived.
I might add that AquaWax is not really a wax but a polymer spray that works extremely well as a drying aid. After rinsing your car blow some of the water off with a leaf blower and then spray on AquaWax as you dry with a good waffle weave towel. The towel will glide over the surface making the task of drying a breeze while at the same time giving the paint a boost in gloss. The only problem is that AquaWax is not found in many stores and I have to order it on-line. Another very good and similar product that is much easier to find in all the local car shops (and even at WalMart) is Lucas Slick Mist Speed Wax. Like AquaWax, it is also a good bang for the buck.
There are many other things such as best towels to use, interior cleaning agents, engine detail, waterless and rinseless washing, etc. but I will mention only one other - Aerospace Protectant 303. Use this for your entire interior, especially if you have MB Tex. There is no better UV protectant for the inside of a car that sits outside all day (especially important here in Texas).
This may be more than you wanted to know but I love talking detailing, as you can tell. Hope it helps.
For tires, I now use two products: Duragloss 281 because it gives a wet look and is the most water repellent finish for tires I know. When I have a tire that looks better in matte finish, I use Eco Touch Tire Shine. It is not glossy and is cream-like which makes their claim of "conditioning the tire" believable. It is also one of the few "green" detailing products around.
My shampoo is Duragloss 901. It cleans very well, suds up nicely in bucket or foam gun and is bargain priced when bought by the gallon. For my Mercedes I use only a mild clay bar such as Griots medium grade. For my wheels I generally use Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus but the Mother's tire and wheel cleaner is half the price and does nearly as well.
After shampoo and clay I move to another German brand, P21S Paintwork Cleanser, a paint cleaner I use as a prep to applying sealant. This is applied with a Griot Garage 6" electric polisher using a finishing pad (always Lake Country pads). The reason for the machine is to get this worked in well and thin as too much makes it difficult to remove. It does a fantastic job in preparing the paint for wax or sealant. I never have swirls or other problems so I do not use abrasive polishes, only chemical paint cleaners. If I have a light scratch I reach for Meguiar's Scratch X2.0 and it has never let me down. When there is grime, tar or other problem soil I use P21S Total Auto Wash at a 2:1 ratio of water to product. Spray it on the bottom panels and let it sit for a few minutes before washing it off.
If the car needs a last step product such as sealant or wax I let it dry completely after doing the steps I just outlined. Then I use my favorite sealant of all time which also happens to be a German product - Sonax Net Polymer Shield. It is a little difficult to apply and remove but worth it, even if it seems to go better by hand than machine. The gloss and water sheeting is second to none and it lasts a good six months to a year, depending if you have a daily driver or a garage queen. Periodically I give it a "topper" or "booster" using Sonax Brilliant Shine, a spray quick detailer. Although it is considered a QD, it acts more like a spray wax. These are now my favorite products and I almost never have the need for wax. Another reason I like Sonax is that it repels dirt and dust better than anything I have tried.
Although your color may make a difference, I find the Sonax NPS to be the best looking on my Diamond White paint. Another great sealant is Duragloss 111 and gives an even more "candy apple" kind of shine to the paint, if that is what you are looking for. The Sonax is a tad richer and deeper and seems more at home with Diamond White. If I had Arctic White I probably would go with the Duragloss. If you choose the Duragloss sealant be sure to use it in conjunction with Duragloss 601 (bonding agent). And if you do this, your topper should be either Duragloss AquaWax or Wolfgang's Spritz, both will return the paint to a beautiful finish between details although the protection they afford will be short lived.
I might add that AquaWax is not really a wax but a polymer spray that works extremely well as a drying aid. After rinsing your car blow some of the water off with a leaf blower and then spray on AquaWax as you dry with a good waffle weave towel. The towel will glide over the surface making the task of drying a breeze while at the same time giving the paint a boost in gloss. The only problem is that AquaWax is not found in many stores and I have to order it on-line. Another very good and similar product that is much easier to find in all the local car shops (and even at WalMart) is Lucas Slick Mist Speed Wax. Like AquaWax, it is also a good bang for the buck.
There are many other things such as best towels to use, interior cleaning agents, engine detail, waterless and rinseless washing, etc. but I will mention only one other - Aerospace Protectant 303. Use this for your entire interior, especially if you have MB Tex. There is no better UV protectant for the inside of a car that sits outside all day (especially important here in Texas).
This may be more than you wanted to know but I love talking detailing, as you can tell. Hope it helps.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 204
Likes: 52
From: Calgary
GLE63S 2016
Looks like this is the stuff then!
https://www.eagleone.com/tire-shine-gel
I'll try it out. Thank-you!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 204
Likes: 52
From: Calgary
GLE63S 2016
I have been a detail enthusiast and hobbyist for around fifty years now. I remember waxing my father's 1946 Chev with wool pads and buffing with old bath towels. Much has changed in detailing over the years and since you asked, I'll give you my two cents worth.
For tires, I now use two products: Duragloss 281 because it gives a wet look and is the most water repellent finish for tires I know. When I have a tire that looks better in matte finish, I use Eco Touch Tire Shine. It is not glossy and is cream-like which makes their claim of "conditioning the tire" believable. It is also one of the few "green" detailing products around.
My shampoo is Duragloss 901. It cleans very well, suds up nicely in bucket or foam gun and is bargain priced when bought by the gallon. For my Mercedes I use only a mild clay bar such as Griots medium grade. For my wheels I generally use Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus but the Mother's tire and wheel cleaner is half the price and does nearly as well.
After shampoo and clay I move to another German brand, P21S Paintwork Cleanser, a paint cleaner I use as a prep to applying sealant. This is applied with a Griot Garage 6" electric polisher using a finishing pad (always Lake Country pads). The reason for the machine is to get this worked in well and thin as too much makes it difficult to remove. It does a fantastic job in preparing the paint for wax or sealant. I never have swirls or other problems so I do not use abrasive polishes, only chemical paint cleaners. If I have a light scratch I reach for Meguiar's Scratch X2.0 and it has never let me down. When there is grime, tar or other problem soil I use P21S Total Auto Wash at a 2:1 ratio of water to product. Spray it on the bottom panels and let it sit for a few minutes before washing it off.
If the car needs a last step product such as sealant or wax I let it dry completely after doing the steps I just outlined. Then I use my favorite sealant of all time which also happens to be a German product - Sonax Net Polymer Shield. It is a little difficult to apply and remove but worth it, even if it seems to go better by hand than machine. The gloss and water sheeting is second to none and it lasts a good six months to a year, depending if you have a daily driver or a garage queen. Periodically I give it a "topper" or "booster" using Sonax Brilliant Shine, a spray quick detailer. Although it is considered a QD, it acts more like a spray wax. These are now my favorite products and I almost never have the need for wax. Another reason I like Sonax is that it repels dirt and dust better than anything I have tried.
Although your color may make a difference, I find the Sonax NPS to be the best looking on my Diamond White paint. Another great sealant is Duragloss 111 and gives an even more "candy apple" kind of shine to the paint, if that is what you are looking for. The Sonax is a tad richer and deeper and seems more at home with Diamond White. If I had Arctic White I probably would go with the Duragloss. If you choose the Duragloss sealant be sure to use it in conjunction with Duragloss 601 (bonding agent). And if you do this, your topper should be either Duragloss AquaWax or Wolfgang's Spritz, both will return the paint to a beautiful finish between details although the protection they afford will be short lived.
I might add that AquaWax is not really a wax but a polymer spray that works extremely well as a drying aid. After rinsing your car blow some of the water off with a leaf blower and then spray on AquaWax as you dry with a good waffle weave towel. The towel will glide over the surface making the task of drying a breeze while at the same time giving the paint a boost in gloss. The only problem is that AquaWax is not found in many stores and I have to order it on-line. Another very good and similar product that is much easier to find in all the local car shops (and even at WalMart) is Lucas Slick Mist Speed Wax. Like AquaWax, it is also a good bang for the buck.
There are many other things such as best towels to use, interior cleaning agents, engine detail, waterless and rinseless washing, etc. but I will mention only one other - Aerospace Protectant 303. Use this for your entire interior, especially if you have MB Tex. There is no better UV protectant for the inside of a car that sits outside all day (especially important here in Texas).
This may be more than you wanted to know but I love talking detailing, as you can tell. Hope it helps.
For tires, I now use two products: Duragloss 281 because it gives a wet look and is the most water repellent finish for tires I know. When I have a tire that looks better in matte finish, I use Eco Touch Tire Shine. It is not glossy and is cream-like which makes their claim of "conditioning the tire" believable. It is also one of the few "green" detailing products around.
My shampoo is Duragloss 901. It cleans very well, suds up nicely in bucket or foam gun and is bargain priced when bought by the gallon. For my Mercedes I use only a mild clay bar such as Griots medium grade. For my wheels I generally use Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus but the Mother's tire and wheel cleaner is half the price and does nearly as well.
After shampoo and clay I move to another German brand, P21S Paintwork Cleanser, a paint cleaner I use as a prep to applying sealant. This is applied with a Griot Garage 6" electric polisher using a finishing pad (always Lake Country pads). The reason for the machine is to get this worked in well and thin as too much makes it difficult to remove. It does a fantastic job in preparing the paint for wax or sealant. I never have swirls or other problems so I do not use abrasive polishes, only chemical paint cleaners. If I have a light scratch I reach for Meguiar's Scratch X2.0 and it has never let me down. When there is grime, tar or other problem soil I use P21S Total Auto Wash at a 2:1 ratio of water to product. Spray it on the bottom panels and let it sit for a few minutes before washing it off.
If the car needs a last step product such as sealant or wax I let it dry completely after doing the steps I just outlined. Then I use my favorite sealant of all time which also happens to be a German product - Sonax Net Polymer Shield. It is a little difficult to apply and remove but worth it, even if it seems to go better by hand than machine. The gloss and water sheeting is second to none and it lasts a good six months to a year, depending if you have a daily driver or a garage queen. Periodically I give it a "topper" or "booster" using Sonax Brilliant Shine, a spray quick detailer. Although it is considered a QD, it acts more like a spray wax. These are now my favorite products and I almost never have the need for wax. Another reason I like Sonax is that it repels dirt and dust better than anything I have tried.
Although your color may make a difference, I find the Sonax NPS to be the best looking on my Diamond White paint. Another great sealant is Duragloss 111 and gives an even more "candy apple" kind of shine to the paint, if that is what you are looking for. The Sonax is a tad richer and deeper and seems more at home with Diamond White. If I had Arctic White I probably would go with the Duragloss. If you choose the Duragloss sealant be sure to use it in conjunction with Duragloss 601 (bonding agent). And if you do this, your topper should be either Duragloss AquaWax or Wolfgang's Spritz, both will return the paint to a beautiful finish between details although the protection they afford will be short lived.
I might add that AquaWax is not really a wax but a polymer spray that works extremely well as a drying aid. After rinsing your car blow some of the water off with a leaf blower and then spray on AquaWax as you dry with a good waffle weave towel. The towel will glide over the surface making the task of drying a breeze while at the same time giving the paint a boost in gloss. The only problem is that AquaWax is not found in many stores and I have to order it on-line. Another very good and similar product that is much easier to find in all the local car shops (and even at WalMart) is Lucas Slick Mist Speed Wax. Like AquaWax, it is also a good bang for the buck.
There are many other things such as best towels to use, interior cleaning agents, engine detail, waterless and rinseless washing, etc. but I will mention only one other - Aerospace Protectant 303. Use this for your entire interior, especially if you have MB Tex. There is no better UV protectant for the inside of a car that sits outside all day (especially important here in Texas).
This may be more than you wanted to know but I love talking detailing, as you can tell. Hope it helps.
Also - I've been using microfibre towels after having become frustrated with all the lint from terrycloth. What towels are you using?
Thanks again!
JF
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 619
Likes: 34
From: East part of Texas
2017 CLS550
Yes indeed, a person could write tons about detailing a car. It is both an art and a science (also a great form of therapy!). Keep in mind that although the products I mentioned are among my favorites, there are many, many other excellent sealants, waxes and cleaners of all types available today. Experimenting with different things is part of the fun and believe me, it can become addictive. Someone mentioned Collinite 845 which is sort of a hybrid last step product, ie, a sealant but with wax properties included. This is an excellent product and looks great, at least on Diamond White. It is also the longest lasting protector of any "wax" I have tried. As that poster said, google 845 and you will have more to read than you have time for.
As far as 303 is concerned, keep in mind that my experience has been with vinyl and MB Tex. I have also used it on vinyl coated leather but not natural leather. I do not think it would work very well with natural, unfinished leather which must be "fed". Anyway, most non-exotic cars have coated seats. The coating is usually a vinyl by-product and is designed to keep things such as coffee, soda, etc. from penetrating to the leather.
The best leather conditioners, such as Lexol and Leatherique are balms that feed and condition leather. These are best used on natural leather rather than car leather because the seat coating (if it is doing its job) will not allow much of the balm to get to the leather itself. If the coating prevents the conditioner from being absorbed it is virtually useless because it can't reach the leather. That is why Protectant 303 is better for coated leather - which 99% of cars with leather seats are coated rather than natural. If a drop of water beads on the seat you have coated leather, if it is absorbed you have unfinished or "natural" leather. As I said, most modern day cars have coated leather seats and Aerospace recommends using 303 on finished or "coated" leather. Also, 303 has a very high UV rating while leather conditioners have a virtual zero UV rating. 303 is what I put it on my hot tub cover. In fact, it can be found at most spa stores and also at most boat supply shops who sell it as the best protectant available for vinyl boat seats that are always under the sun. Another nice thing about 303 is that it does not leave a shinny or "oily" look but more of a natural, matte finish. It protects very well but you don't see it working. You will not find many people who have anything bad to say about Protectant 303 and it is considered a must have on any detailer's shelf.
Towels open up yet another Pandora's box. You will find many different opinions as to who makes the best towel. For drying I have found two that stand out - Cobra waffle weave (The Guzzler) and Car Pros "Dry Me Crazy" towel. Both are superb. See them here: http://www.autogeek.net/guzzler-microfiber-combo.html, and here: http://www.carpro-us.com/microfiber-...crazy-25-x-17/.
Towels for quick detailer and spray waxes need to be plush and I like these: http://www.carpro-us.com/boa-10-pack...towel-16-x-24/. There are many good ones out there for this type of application but these are cheap and plain and do the job of others that cost two or three times as much. They are cheap enough that I have extras dedicated for waterless and rinseless washes. For final buffing, this double sided "Chinchilla" towel is hard to beat: http://www.autogeek.net/chinchilla-b...oth-combo.html.
You'll noticed I've linked on-line detail companies. They have forums where you can learn about the finer points of detailing and keep up with all the new products and techniques. But as I said, watch out because you can easily get hooked for life!
As far as 303 is concerned, keep in mind that my experience has been with vinyl and MB Tex. I have also used it on vinyl coated leather but not natural leather. I do not think it would work very well with natural, unfinished leather which must be "fed". Anyway, most non-exotic cars have coated seats. The coating is usually a vinyl by-product and is designed to keep things such as coffee, soda, etc. from penetrating to the leather.
The best leather conditioners, such as Lexol and Leatherique are balms that feed and condition leather. These are best used on natural leather rather than car leather because the seat coating (if it is doing its job) will not allow much of the balm to get to the leather itself. If the coating prevents the conditioner from being absorbed it is virtually useless because it can't reach the leather. That is why Protectant 303 is better for coated leather - which 99% of cars with leather seats are coated rather than natural. If a drop of water beads on the seat you have coated leather, if it is absorbed you have unfinished or "natural" leather. As I said, most modern day cars have coated leather seats and Aerospace recommends using 303 on finished or "coated" leather. Also, 303 has a very high UV rating while leather conditioners have a virtual zero UV rating. 303 is what I put it on my hot tub cover. In fact, it can be found at most spa stores and also at most boat supply shops who sell it as the best protectant available for vinyl boat seats that are always under the sun. Another nice thing about 303 is that it does not leave a shinny or "oily" look but more of a natural, matte finish. It protects very well but you don't see it working. You will not find many people who have anything bad to say about Protectant 303 and it is considered a must have on any detailer's shelf.
Towels open up yet another Pandora's box. You will find many different opinions as to who makes the best towel. For drying I have found two that stand out - Cobra waffle weave (The Guzzler) and Car Pros "Dry Me Crazy" towel. Both are superb. See them here: http://www.autogeek.net/guzzler-microfiber-combo.html, and here: http://www.carpro-us.com/microfiber-...crazy-25-x-17/.
Towels for quick detailer and spray waxes need to be plush and I like these: http://www.carpro-us.com/boa-10-pack...towel-16-x-24/. There are many good ones out there for this type of application but these are cheap and plain and do the job of others that cost two or three times as much. They are cheap enough that I have extras dedicated for waterless and rinseless washes. For final buffing, this double sided "Chinchilla" towel is hard to beat: http://www.autogeek.net/chinchilla-b...oth-combo.html.
You'll noticed I've linked on-line detail companies. They have forums where you can learn about the finer points of detailing and keep up with all the new products and techniques. But as I said, watch out because you can easily get hooked for life!
Last edited by shortspark; Apr 20, 2015 at 06:03 AM.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 56
From: Alberta, Canada
'18 GLE63S AMG /'19 PORSCHE TURBO S / '09 CORVETTE ZR1 /'14 LEXUS RX350/'16 RAV4 Ltd
The best tire dressing I've ever used and also $$$
http://www.swissvax.us/merchant.mvc?...-AND-TYRE-CARE
http://www.swissvax.us/merchant.mvc?...-AND-TYRE-CARE
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 39
Likes: 1
From: Plano, Texas
2013 ML550; 2018 C43 AMG; 2016 Porsche GT4
I use one of the many detail sprays available (I like Adams) and a microfiber towel to wipe the inside of my windows. In my experience this detail spray will do a wonderful job of clearing up the haze on the interior side of the glass without streaking, unlike most glass cleaners.
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 595
Likes: 38
From: Boston area
2019 GLS450
I like Zaino myself as it's easy to apply by hand. I've personally never used a machine, honestly too scared to try it and mess it up. My springtime routine (just did the ML last Saturday) takes 5-6hrs. I like to start early before the paint gets hot. I start by washing the car down w/ Dawn dish soap, this being the only time I use Dawn, and a thorough rinse. Next I go panel by panel w/ Meguiar's clay bar, and then wash again, this time w/ Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo. I know there's better washes out there but this is just readily available as I wash my cars sometimes twice per week. After the wash and dry, I use a leaf blower to get the water out from between the trim pieces, fuel door, mirrors, etc. Next is Z-PC which is abrasive and I only use it once per year. Let it dry and then wipe it off using the yellow microfiber towels from Griot's Garage. Wipe the car down w/ Z-6 which is like a quick detailer. Next I use Z-AIO which is a cleanser and polish. Let that dry for about 45mins, then wipe it off and go over the car w/ Z-6 again. After that, I use Z-5 Pro which is a polish (and sealant?), let it dry for about an hour, then wipe it off and go over it again w/ the Z-6. Next 2 or 3 times I wash the car, I'll do the Z-5 again to get about 3-4 layers on there. Lasts good through the summer. The key to Zaino is thin layers. For the tires, I've been using Griot's tire shine.
Last edited by skw; May 6, 2015 at 11:25 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,566
Likes: 7
'14 ML BT
Buy a random orbital polisher and you'll save 2 hours minimum. It would be really hard to burn through the clear coat with a random orbital. (Although I'm probably capable.)
Junior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Norway
2013 ml 250 ,2010e220, 84corvette,56lincoln
all zymol products http://www.zymol.com/zymolpremiumvin...tioner8oz.aspx on rubber and vinyl = best you can by !! the best wax http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zymol-Glasur-Wax-HD-Cleanse-Car-Paint-Cleaner-Microfiber-Towel-Prewax-Applicator-/231268882882?hash=item35d8b319c2&item=231268882882&vxp=mtr i use it on 56 lincoln, 84 corvette , 2010 mb e class , 2013 ml w166
Last edited by corvettenorway; May 8, 2015 at 05:34 PM.
