Replacing Brakes
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 27
Likes: 5
ML350
Replacing Brakes
I'm trying to get a ball park of the cost for replacing the brakes all around on my 2013 ML350.
Could you guys recommend any reputable websites?
I did a ball park on ECS Tuning for OEM MB rotors, pads, and sensors. It's coming out to about $1,000 + labor.
Thoughts?
Thanks
Could you guys recommend any reputable websites?
I did a ball park on ECS Tuning for OEM MB rotors, pads, and sensors. It's coming out to about $1,000 + labor.
Thoughts?
Thanks
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 205
From: NW
2018 GLC 4MATIC
I used the following to get parts: http://www.mboemparts.com/auto-parts?mobile=1
Didnt replace rotors, no reason car has only 40K, MB recomending to replace rotors and pads at the same time, check if thicknes is in range, dont bother. Ussually its evry other pads replasments. So i paid 178$ for sensor, you need one, pads, and bout paste on ebay.
Dealer quoted 450-510 pads only, 800$ with rotors. Took me an hour to do both sides, and Im not a mechanic and dont have all tools.
I think it will cost more then 1000$.
Good luck.
Didnt replace rotors, no reason car has only 40K, MB recomending to replace rotors and pads at the same time, check if thicknes is in range, dont bother. Ussually its evry other pads replasments. So i paid 178$ for sensor, you need one, pads, and bout paste on ebay.
Dealer quoted 450-510 pads only, 800$ with rotors. Took me an hour to do both sides, and Im not a mechanic and dont have all tools.
I think it will cost more then 1000$.
Good luck.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 46
Likes: 3
13 ML350
I just did the fronts on my 2013 ML350. Not a lot of information online on how. This MY is a bit different than the 2012 but the principles are the same. I bought the rotors and pads from Rockauto. Good prices and you can use this for a 5% discount in the "How did you hear about us" section (4709849036603393). Code expires 8/21/16
I bought the BECK/ARNLEY (PN 0833591) rotors and RAYBESTOS (PN EHT1629) pads. Came to about $175 shipped.
If you are just replacing the pads, you will need a 11MM hex socket! DO NOT try this without picking up one first. Most sets you buy will have a 10 and 12 but not 11!
If you are replacing the rotors, you'll need a 21mm socket and a cheater bar or some other rod for leverage. I used a 1/2" wrench and plastic coated dead blow hammer to knock the 2 large bolts free. The top bolt is tight for a socket due to the brake line. The bottom can be used with an impact driver.
You'll also need a torx bit for the rotor bolt (don't remember the size right now).
Since this is a double piston caliper, you'll want to use a brake pad spreader to apply pressure to both pistons at the same time or one will go in while the other will come out.
I have not done the rears yet, however, if you have the electric parking brake, you will need to go in the ASSYST menu and retract the brake first.
Just found a video
https://mbworld.org/forums/new-m-cla...nt-brakes.html
I bought the BECK/ARNLEY (PN 0833591) rotors and RAYBESTOS (PN EHT1629) pads. Came to about $175 shipped.
If you are just replacing the pads, you will need a 11MM hex socket! DO NOT try this without picking up one first. Most sets you buy will have a 10 and 12 but not 11!
If you are replacing the rotors, you'll need a 21mm socket and a cheater bar or some other rod for leverage. I used a 1/2" wrench and plastic coated dead blow hammer to knock the 2 large bolts free. The top bolt is tight for a socket due to the brake line. The bottom can be used with an impact driver.
You'll also need a torx bit for the rotor bolt (don't remember the size right now).
Since this is a double piston caliper, you'll want to use a brake pad spreader to apply pressure to both pistons at the same time or one will go in while the other will come out.
I have not done the rears yet, however, if you have the electric parking brake, you will need to go in the ASSYST menu and retract the brake first.
Just found a video
https://mbworld.org/forums/new-m-cla...nt-brakes.html
Last edited by flexdmc; Jul 24, 2016 at 03:30 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 46
Likes: 3
13 ML350
Thanks DanD. I saw the fronts. Now we have the rears all in one thread, probably again lol.
I'm cross posting my torque specs for those of us who actually use them.
Front 21mm bolts to steering knuckle - 80Nm+45 degrees (PN A 019 990 56 01 BOLT W FLANGE
BRAKE CALIPER TO STEER. KNUCKLE, M14X1,5X40)
Front 11mm hex to floating caliper - No torque spec provided. According to the MB manual, the 21mm bolts are one time use bolts (TTY). The procedure outlines that the brake line should be disconnected when servicing. That torque value is 22Nm. (PN A 000 421 62 74 GUIDE PIN)
Rear bolt is 60Nm +45 degrees. Brake line to carrier is the same at 22Nm. (PN A 018 990 00 01 BRAKE CALIPER TO WHEEL CARRIER M12X1,5X35)
Guide Pin (PN A 000 421 40 74 GUIDE SLEEVE LEFT AND RIGHT)
The only main issue with both of these video's is that MB uses TTY bolts per their replacement instructions and at a minimum the torque specs should be stated for the caliper bracket bolts.
These PN's are for a 2013 4Matic ML350 Flex, however, the PN's should be the same. YMMV
I'm cross posting my torque specs for those of us who actually use them.
Front 21mm bolts to steering knuckle - 80Nm+45 degrees (PN A 019 990 56 01 BOLT W FLANGE
BRAKE CALIPER TO STEER. KNUCKLE, M14X1,5X40)
Front 11mm hex to floating caliper - No torque spec provided. According to the MB manual, the 21mm bolts are one time use bolts (TTY). The procedure outlines that the brake line should be disconnected when servicing. That torque value is 22Nm. (PN A 000 421 62 74 GUIDE PIN)
Rear bolt is 60Nm +45 degrees. Brake line to carrier is the same at 22Nm. (PN A 018 990 00 01 BRAKE CALIPER TO WHEEL CARRIER M12X1,5X35)
Guide Pin (PN A 000 421 40 74 GUIDE SLEEVE LEFT AND RIGHT)
The only main issue with both of these video's is that MB uses TTY bolts per their replacement instructions and at a minimum the torque specs should be stated for the caliper bracket bolts.
These PN's are for a 2013 4Matic ML350 Flex, however, the PN's should be the same. YMMV
Last edited by flexdmc; Jul 25, 2016 at 11:55 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL
2018 Audi A6, 2012 Porsche 911 CS
Thanks DanD for the helpful videos, and flexdmc for the parts info.
Our 2013 ML350 4Matic at 31,920 miles is starting to make a scraping noise while braking at low speeds. Both rear pads are really worn down -- just barely any pad material left! I'm surprised that a brake wear indicator light has not gone off. I'm considering replacing the rotors at the same time I replace the pads. The rear rotors are solid, not vented. I would not have expected a vehicle like this to have solid rotors. Can anyone confirm whether or not vented rotors can be added with changing anything else (ie carriers, bolts, etc)?
Also, does anyone have the OEM part # for the rotor screws? To be on the safe side, I might as well order them too in case they get stripped when trying to remove.
Should the 21mm carrier bolts definitely be replaced, or could I reuse (with loctite blue)?
Our 2013 ML350 4Matic at 31,920 miles is starting to make a scraping noise while braking at low speeds. Both rear pads are really worn down -- just barely any pad material left! I'm surprised that a brake wear indicator light has not gone off. I'm considering replacing the rotors at the same time I replace the pads. The rear rotors are solid, not vented. I would not have expected a vehicle like this to have solid rotors. Can anyone confirm whether or not vented rotors can be added with changing anything else (ie carriers, bolts, etc)?
Also, does anyone have the OEM part # for the rotor screws? To be on the safe side, I might as well order them too in case they get stripped when trying to remove.
Should the 21mm carrier bolts definitely be replaced, or could I reuse (with loctite blue)?
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 46
Likes: 3
13 ML350
Thanks DanD for the helpful videos, and flexdmc for the parts info.
Our 2013 ML350 4Matic at 31,920 miles is starting to make a scraping noise while braking at low speeds. Both rear pads are really worn down -- just barely any pad material left! I'm surprised that a brake wear indicator light has not gone off. I'm considering replacing the rotors at the same time I replace the pads. The rear rotors are solid, not vented. I would not have expected a vehicle like this to have solid rotors. Can anyone confirm whether or not vented rotors can be added with changing anything else (ie carriers, bolts, etc)?
Also, does anyone have the OEM part # for the rotor screws? To be on the safe side, I might as well order them too in case they get stripped when trying to remove.
Should the 21mm carrier bolts definitely be replaced, or could I reuse (with loctite blue)?
Our 2013 ML350 4Matic at 31,920 miles is starting to make a scraping noise while braking at low speeds. Both rear pads are really worn down -- just barely any pad material left! I'm surprised that a brake wear indicator light has not gone off. I'm considering replacing the rotors at the same time I replace the pads. The rear rotors are solid, not vented. I would not have expected a vehicle like this to have solid rotors. Can anyone confirm whether or not vented rotors can be added with changing anything else (ie carriers, bolts, etc)?
Also, does anyone have the OEM part # for the rotor screws? To be on the safe side, I might as well order them too in case they get stripped when trying to remove.
Should the 21mm carrier bolts definitely be replaced, or could I reuse (with loctite blue)?
The rotor screws are always a good idea to replace since they're cheap.
PN's for rear screws (and fronts) should be 220-421-01-71 (1 per rotor, 4 per vehicle)
Lastly do not use any loctite or lubricant on the carrier bolts. Torque should always be applied on a dry bolt unless otherwise noted. If using lubricant, the torque value must be higher than listed on a dry bolt due to slip.
I did not replace mine when doing my front brakes only because I didn't know at the time. I'll replace them when doing them again. There's a reason why MB specifies to replace these as I've never seen any vehicle mfg. use TTY bolts on carrier bolts, and I have a few luxury performance vehicles and do the service on those as well.
Don't forget to set the electronic brake in the service position per the video.
Good Luck!
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL
2018 Audi A6, 2012 Porsche 911 CS
Rear rotors will be solid unless you find an aftermarket set that sells them with cross drilled holes. The ones I normally see that are cross drilled are for the AMG package which will not fit unless you replace all the hardware and caliper.
The rotor screws are always a good idea to replace since they're cheap.
PN's for rear screws (and fronts) should be 220-421-01-71 (1 per rotor, 4 per vehicle)
Lastly do not use any loctite or lubricant on the carrier bolts. Torque should always be applied on a dry bolt unless otherwise noted. If using lubricant, the torque value must be higher than listed on a dry bolt due to slip.
I did not replace mine when doing my front brakes only because I didn't know at the time. I'll replace them when doing them again. There's a reason why MB specifies to replace these as I've never seen any vehicle mfg. use TTY bolts on carrier bolts, and I have a few luxury performance vehicles and do the service on those as well.
Don't forget to set the electronic brake in the service position per the video.
Good Luck!
The rotor screws are always a good idea to replace since they're cheap.
PN's for rear screws (and fronts) should be 220-421-01-71 (1 per rotor, 4 per vehicle)
Lastly do not use any loctite or lubricant on the carrier bolts. Torque should always be applied on a dry bolt unless otherwise noted. If using lubricant, the torque value must be higher than listed on a dry bolt due to slip.
I did not replace mine when doing my front brakes only because I didn't know at the time. I'll replace them when doing them again. There's a reason why MB specifies to replace these as I've never seen any vehicle mfg. use TTY bolts on carrier bolts, and I have a few luxury performance vehicles and do the service on those as well.
Don't forget to set the electronic brake in the service position per the video.
Good Luck!
I am considering ordering after-market rotors. I've had good experience with Centric (made by Powerstop) rotors and would order those or even Brembo rotors. As far as pads, I'm thinking Centric for those as well.
Here are part numbers and approx current pricing:
Rotors
Front:
OEM 1664210612 - $102.99
Brembo 09.A596.11 (1664210612) - $74.99
Centric High Carbon (p/n 125.35138 vented) - $86.85
Rear:
OEM 1664230012- $112.99
Brembo 08.A957.11 (1664230012) - $65.99
Centric High Carbon (p/n 125.35131 solid) - $61.88
Brake Pads
Front:
Centric Posi Quiet Ceramic (p/n 105.14550) - $60.94
Rear:
Centric Posi Quiet Ceramic (p/n 105.16300) - $37.20
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL
2018 Audi A6, 2012 Porsche 911 CS
I called the parts department for pricing and availability of the carrier bolts and rotor screw.
I'm told that the rear carrier bolts are actually p/n 0199906401, which is #70 on the diagram found on the below link and described as "BOLT W FLANGE"
http://www.mbpartsworld.com/showAsse...roduct=7533934
Also, the parts guy mentioned that they normally don't carry the carrier bolts in stock. He goes further to say that they do a lot of brake jobs and no service tech has requested these from him. He recommended just using thread lock. Hmmm.
The rotor retaining screw p/n is 2204210171. Better safe to have these on hand and might as well replace when replacing rotors.
I'm told that the rear carrier bolts are actually p/n 0199906401, which is #70 on the diagram found on the below link and described as "BOLT W FLANGE"
http://www.mbpartsworld.com/showAsse...roduct=7533934
Also, the parts guy mentioned that they normally don't carry the carrier bolts in stock. He goes further to say that they do a lot of brake jobs and no service tech has requested these from him. He recommended just using thread lock. Hmmm.
The rotor retaining screw p/n is 2204210171. Better safe to have these on hand and might as well replace when replacing rotors.
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 888
Likes: 4
From: Atlanta
'12 E63, E55(sold), C32 (sold), '65 Skylark GS 445 convertible, '12 ML350
I used this to do the rotors and pads on my wife's ML350 last night. GREAT write up and the video was extremely helpful too.
One thing I did discover was that to release the e parking brake in her car, I had to turn the key to (1) and then press call + OK at the same time. Worked like a charm.
Unfortunately, I ordered the wrong rotors:
Luckily, Advance Auto had a set in stock so I ran out and grabbed 'em and slapped them on. First wheel took me a bit... second one... pads and rotor in less than 45 min.
One thing I did discover was that to release the e parking brake in her car, I had to turn the key to (1) and then press call + OK at the same time. Worked like a charm.
Unfortunately, I ordered the wrong rotors:
Luckily, Advance Auto had a set in stock so I ran out and grabbed 'em and slapped them on. First wheel took me a bit... second one... pads and rotor in less than 45 min.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
GL 350
Great video...
Anybody know the Norma thickness of pads and rotors for front and rear?
I'm looking at a 2014 ml350 they said the front discs (rotors) are 31mm and pads 11mm.
Rear was 19mm disc and 3mm pad so they replaced it.
Thanks
Anybody know the Norma thickness of pads and rotors for front and rear?
I'm looking at a 2014 ml350 they said the front discs (rotors) are 31mm and pads 11mm.
Rear was 19mm disc and 3mm pad so they replaced it.
Thanks
