Installed H&R springs - Initial impression & pics
The new springs have basically eliminated the body roll and made the ML completely predictable now. Best part was that the ride quality is not significantly changed. On large bumps I can tell they are stiffer springs, but just riding down the road I don't notice any difference. They also didn't lower the vehicle a lot, which is good, I don't want a slammed SUV.
BEFORE


AFTER






Last edited by NickW; Sep 5, 2017 at 12:12 PM.




It looks like you did the spring swap yourself. I checked on a local shop and they wanted alot of money to make the swap.
How difficult was it?




I'm also curious as to how hard it is to do yourself. I'm guessing that with a spring compressor, can't be too bad.
It looks like you did the spring swap yourself. I checked on a local shop and they wanted alot of money to make the swap.
How difficult was it?
The swap wasn't too bad. I've worked on cars for a long time and done a lot of suspension work on all kinds of vehicles. With that being said, this was one of the more difficult spring swaps I've done. One of the most difficult parts is not having air tools so it was time consuming. Another issue is that there's not a lot of room to get the rear springs compressed and get them out. I had to add a bunch of washers to the rear spring compressor to keep the bolt from running into the top hat. That may not make sense now, but it will if anyone goes to do it, haha.
I used strut-coil compressors on the front and spring compressors on the rears. You also need a 21mm spline socket for the front to remove the top ball joint in the A-arm, from the knuckle so that you have enough room to get the strut assembly out.
But all-in-all it's doable with simple hand tools and patience. If anyone attempts it and has any questions, I'm happy to help.
Also...you obviously need an alignment after you're done. I found a local shop that agreed to do it for $80. Had 4 places tell me they wouldn't do it b/c it's a Mercedes. Which is silly, b/c there's nothing special about it. Mercedes wanted $200 so I said no thanks to that.
Thanks man!
Last edited by NickW; Sep 5, 2017 at 11:39 AM.
I bought them on eBay from a seller named tndmoto. About $280 shipped and they got to me with just a few days. Part number for the W166 (non-airmatic obviously) is 29147-6.
Last edited by NickW; Sep 5, 2017 at 12:13 PM.
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I've read that sport mode lowers the airmatic models .6", but I don't know if that's true. I've seen pictures of ML's with 22" wheels in sport mode and it looked comparable to how mine now looks...in my opinion.




Petey sad....
Petey sad....
Haha! Sorry man, hate it for you diesel guys!
Sorry for late response, but yes I definitely got an alignment. Numbers went back with factory specs, but just barely on the camber. I haven't seen any concerns with tire wear. Drives straight and does not pull, just as before.




I can't see the rear of an ML350 weighing much more or less than the BT. Other than the extra weight of the DEF (7 gallons) and tank (I'd guess about 20-30 lbs?), there can't be such a huge difference in spring rates. Matter of fact, the extra weight on the BT will probably drop it another .25" or so (he said, praying he was right).




Rear:
OEM Part # for a 2012+ ML350 spring is 164-324-02-04
OEM Part # for a 2012+ ML350 BT spring is 164-324-02-04
Front:
OEM Part # for a 2012+ ML350 spring is 166-321-14-04
OEM Part # for a 2012+ ML350 BT spring is 166-321-14-04
They're the same bloody #'s. My guess; H&R simply figured that no one driving a diesel would actually be interested in lowering the truck, so they never bothered to test their kit on a BTed version. Only thing that makes sense and blows my freakin' mind.
Guess what I'm ordering this afternoon???? Only installing the rears, mind you.
Last edited by peter2772000; Apr 5, 2018 at 11:40 AM.




