M-Class (W166) Produced 2012-2015

ML350 cargo area rattle

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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 05:33 PM
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ML350 cargo area rattle

Hello All,
This is my second ML350 Bluetec (both 2014s). Both have had this rattle in the cargo area I can't seem to track down, I believe it is inside the car not suspension related. I have searched and searched other posts to no avail, Its not the cargo shade (I don't have one) the tile laying across the seat backs is something another post had referenced. I ran a video both under the car and inside, can't replicate the sound under the car. Inside the Go-pro slightly picks up the sound, best way I can describe is a rattling plastic canister? Its hard to pick up the sound in the video it almost just sounds like road noise, the best example is 1:02-1:10 in the video. Any ideas??

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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 05:46 AM
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I'm sure you first emptied the trunk of everything in there, like the spare etc?
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by peter2772000
I'm sure you first emptied the trunk of everything in there, like the spare etc?
No I didn’t, I did ensure the tire was secure. I did put weight on the cover panel to ensure it wasn’t the cover. I will try that, it’s just really odd that both my MLs have made that exact same noise and no else seems to talk about it on any forum lol.
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 08:52 AM
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You may be cursed. You ever **** off a Haitian witch doctor? LOL

Empty the cargo completely and try it out, nothing to lose..
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by peter2772000
You may be cursed. You ever **** off a Haitian witch doctor? LOL

Empty the cargo completely and try it out, nothing to lose..
Hahahaha probably!! But I’m not superstitious so don’t care lol. I will give it a shot for sure! I thought it was the ADBlue tank cover because it’s very loose and one retaining nut seems to be stripped, but the video from under the car didn’t have the sound. I aimed the camera right at the cover also doesn’t seem to move.
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 08:51 AM
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Following. My new to me CPO 2014 ML350 Bluetec has a rattle in rear I am trying to find as well.
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by johnand
Following. My new to me CPO 2014 ML350 Bluetec has a rattle in rear I am trying to find as well.
See I’m not crazy
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 11:45 AM
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Jury's still out on that subject LOL. Misery loves company...

When are you going to empty the trunk?
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by peter2772000
Jury's still out on that subject LOL. Misery loves company...

When are you going to empty the trunk?
Tomorrow I’m off work, getting it fixed before my trip home to FL on Friday. Also going to address the overhead light panel which rattles as well over bumps.
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 03:29 PM
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Trip "home"? I'm heading down to our winter home on the west coast, Cape Coral. Flying down this month for 2 weeks, then back up north and driving down mid-December for another 2-3 weeks. You a full-timer or a wannabe like me?
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by peter2772000
Trip "home"? I'm heading down to our winter home on the west coast, Cape Coral. Flying down this month for 2 weeks, then back up north and driving down mid-December for another 2-3 weeks. You a full-timer or a wannabe like me?
Relocated to Alabama for work. Born and raised in St. Petersburg
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 12:04 AM
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Well all I can say is tomorrow is another day... started working on removing cargo area tonight hoping
maybe I would find the quick fix. Did find multiple loose parts plastic gas tank skid cover, heat shield, plastic speed sensor brackets on both rear control arms. However it wasn't the source of the noise. Whatever is making this noise is very sensitive, the slightest bump will cause the rattle. I’m beginning to wonder if it’s rear shocks or shock mounts. I will check first thing in the morning.

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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 03:52 AM
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Jesus! When I mentioned emptying the trunk, I meant the spare etc. You've definitely gone the extra mile. Damn!
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by peter2772000
Jesus! When I mentioned emptying the trunk, I meant the spare etc. You've definitely gone the extra mile. Damn!
😂🤣😂🤣
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 02:05 PM
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Alright well as you can see I completely disassembled my ML, still can't say with 100% certainty where the noise is coming from, I believe its the shock absorber. I noticed a post in the GLK forums about rear shock noise and how the rubber isolator wears down, thought I had found the problem. Removed the top of my ML shock and found the ML's don't have a rubber isolator its metal on metal with a tiny o-ring between the plate and body. I added a 1/4 inch crushproof rubber washer, no change, I took a video after I added the washers below. I also removed all the covers from underneath the car, gas tank skid, DPF skid, wheel liners. Im at a loss, only reason I still believe its the shock is the noise is so sensitive to any bump (and there wasn't much left on the car to rattle), my tires had been at 28PSI and I aired up to 45PSI for my trip home and this made the noise much more noticeable .... Anyone have any suggestions??


​​​​​​
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 03:13 PM
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Damn, I can barely hear it at all. You mean to tell me that with all the under-padding/carpet in place, it's loud enough to hear? That's incredible.

Maybe have someone sitting in the back while you drive to try to isolate where the noise is coming from?
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by peter2772000
Damn, I can barely hear it at all. You mean to tell me that with all the under-padding/carpet in place, it's loud enough to hear? That's incredible.

Maybe have someone sitting in the back while you drive to try to isolate where the noise is coming from?
Seriously I can’t beleieve through all the insolation it’s still so noticeable. Go-pro mic sucks. I really don’t want to spend money on OEM shocks, I would want something stiffer.
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 09:29 AM
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Last time I went to my dealer, they thoroughly inspected my truck because original warranty was about to expire (I get the extended one after this inspection).
They told me they replaced both rear shock (and/or suspensions... I am not sure which part exactly) under the original warranty.
That was because of some noise coming from the cargo area which I didn't noticed at all.

Your case may related to the the same issue, as you guessed, and may be covered under warranty if you still have one.

Good luck!
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MBSang
Last time I went to my dealer, they thoroughly inspected my truck because original warranty was about to expire (I get the extended one after this inspection).
They told me they replaced both rear shock (and/or suspensions... I am not sure which part exactly) under the original warranty.
That was because of some noise coming from the cargo area which I didn't noticed at all.

Your case may related to the the same issue, as you guessed, and may be covered under warranty if you still have one.

Good luck!
Thanks for the information! I’m going to disconnect it and test drive to see if the noise stops when I get a chance. But it’s goong to be next week at the earliest.
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 08:11 PM
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I know this is an old thread, I hope CSM or others are still following. I need to remove both sides of hatch area trim panels, for shock replacement. The shock itself looks very straightforward to replace. Is there a trick to removing the interior panels? I see several torx screws that obviously need removal. the panel looks to be one continues unit from hatch door to the floor of the 2nd row. Thanks in advance. I will continue searching here meanwhile. 2013 ML350 with air suspension and ADS
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Stoneseller
I know this is an old thread, I hope CSM or others are still following. I need to remove both sides of hatch area trim panels, for shock replacement. The shock itself looks very straightforward to replace. Is there a trick to removing the interior panels? I see several torx screws that obviously need removal. the panel looks to be one continues unit from hatch door to the floor of the 2nd row. Thanks in advance. I will continue searching here meanwhile. 2013 ML350 with air suspension and ADS
Can you load a pic of where your taking about? It’s all torx and plastic push pins from what I remember.
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 09:46 AM
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Pictures of both sides

Originally Posted by CSM
Can you load a pic of where your taking about? It’s all torx and plastic push pins from what I remember.
CSM Here you go. Thanks!

David in MD


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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Stoneseller
CSM Here you go. Thanks!

David in MD

if I’m remembering correctly the floor has to come out before the side panels will. It’s not hard just take your time and make sure you have a set of torx bits.
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 08:06 PM
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Rear escutcheon plate has to come out. You may also describe this as the door sill.

Remove the tie down loops on both sides.

Pretty sure the door seal has to come out as well.

The cargo restraint hooks.

Fold the seats down and the panel pulls off the wall. There are about 5 nylon clips that hold it on and can be a pig to line up again.

Not hard, as advised take your time and it will all go well.

When all back together you need to refit the door seal and ensure it goes over the interior panel.

It's been a while since I had mine apart and I may have missed something.
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Zuffen
Rear escutcheon plate has to come out. You may also describe this as the door sill.

Remove the tie down loops on both sides.

Pretty sure the door seal has to come out as well.

The cargo restraint hooks.

Fold the seats down and the panel pulls off the wall. There are about 5 nylon clips that hold it on and can be a pig to line up again.

Not hard, as advised take your time and it will all go well.

When all back together you need to refit the door seal and ensure it goes over the interior panel.

It's been a while since I had mine apart and I may have missed something.
Thank you Zuffen

Re; Hatch seal removal. I hope I don’t have to remove.

If I do, is the back side of this seal simply flat and glued in place?
Will I have to strip all the adhesive off of both mating surfaces, and what is a suitable adhesive to reattach?

TIA
David in MD
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