I have a 2013 ML63 W166 with Harmon Kardon system, looking at just replacing the stock 8" subwoofer with a new sub box and monoblock amp. Just wanting to know if anyone has experience (hopefully with pics) routing power from the battery under the drivers seat to the rear new amp (and where to mount the fuse) and would I just get the sub signal from the existing sub with a LOC (does the LOC need to be high powered as it is getting it from the HK amp?) and just use the LOC for remote amp turn on as well?

I'm keen to do it myself, but hopefully I don't need to dismantle too much of the panels/carpet if wires can be easily fed through existing spots?

 

Unless you're going custom install, going to be tricky to do a swap in the space where the HK sub is. Easier to use the LOC you have (you can power it off the mono amp) to tap into rear door speaker, and run to sub amp + sub. I put everything under rear bench, and have sub box in the trunk.

 

I'll be essentially disconnecting the HK sub and putting my own amp and sub enclosure in the rear. The main bit I'm trying to suss out first is the best way to route the power cable for the amp from the battery under the drivers seat to the boot? I'm hoping I don't need to remove seats/remove carpet to do this?

Once I get the power cable to the rear, all the rest should be nearby to hookup easily from what I can tell, ground/LOC/use existing subwoofer signal etc.?

 

Search for the forum for battery change w166; you'll see how to get to it. No need to remove seats, just have to move it all the way forward and up. If the battery has never been swapped in your truck, you will have to cut some carpet.

Then it's a matter of running your sub wiring kit, tapping into a remote trigger in the fuse box (under the rear bench), and as I mentioned above, tapping into the door speakers with a LOC to feed the amp signal.

 

Did anyone end up doing this? Or is there another link to someone who has?

 

I did part of this today. I connected some 2 gauge power cable to the main battery. I did remove the seat completely though to make it easier.

I had already connect my power cable to an 8mm eye connector which i then connected to the outer holder on the positive battery terminal. (6mm would work fine as well, i think).

The one in the pic below. (Note this is not my picture! I did not think to take any sorry).


I then stuffed the cable and the fuse holder under the carpet at the negative terminal end. This is somewhat sad and does raise the carpet in that area, so i may have to improve on this idea (possible remove some of the foam where the big fuse holder is to get it back flat again).

I fed the rest of the cable under same carpet and through up to under the seat. My ML63 has a big fuse box under there and there is room to feed the cable through.

I have removed the HK sub, and taken one of those wires and connected it through to a connector under the seat ready to connect as speaker line in to my mono amp (which thankfully has this option), which will go under the rear seat.

I still have to finish building my sub box, and find a place for the ground from the amp (open to suggestions) and somewhere to connect turn-on wire (possibly 12V plug in rear compartment) . It is a bit of a slow project.

As I said I did remove the seat to make it easier. Removing the seat is not that hard but don't disconnect the wiring underneath without first removing the negative terminal on the battery otherwise you will end up with SRS alerts when you turn everything back on. It would have been a massive nightmare to connect my 2 gauge cable without having removed the seat. I also removed the bottom part of the rear seat when doing this which is super easy which also helps give a lot more room to move.

Good luck.

 

do what, specifically

 

That is awesome! Thank you for the update. I will be starting mine next weekend.
I have two 12" subs in a sealed enclosure, that will need a heft Monoblock. So I cant put my amp under the seat.
Also - I checked the under seat area on my car the other day, it was pretty warm in there. So you might want to look at cooling / ventilation options if you are planning on putting an amp under there. Even if you weren't going to run it hard, it might still go into heat protect mode.
My options are to mount the Monoblock on the back of the sub box with a Quick Disconnect Power cable and a SPEAKON connector for the sub. Or find a more permanent spot for the amp.

I will share some pics after/during the install.

 

I hava 2014 ML63. I'm taking the two 8" cerwin vega subs n box, with pioneer mono amp out of my Infiniti fx35 and having it installed in the ML Monday. I'll let u know what I think. My fx35 had the premium Bose and I had a guy that worked for me install the subs and amp with the bypass yada yada. I know he didn't unhook the stock Bose woofer. He used to work at a stereo shop wen he was younger so he knew wat he was doing and after he was done it was amazing! It had plenty of thump for me. It was perfect. The bose surround was still there and the only thing different was the extra bass. My ML has a bigger cab area than my old FX, so if I don't think it's enuff thump I'll opt for the 10's but I doubt I need it.
On a different note. I'm also considering going with the eurocharge stage 1 tune. My only concern is my tranny being strong enuff to handle the extra HP. I'm confident the engine can handle the extra 4-5 lbs of boost. Has any one out there had any transmission troubles after a stage 1 tune? I'm pretty confident that the tranny is strong enuff too just looking for feedback from others who've had the upgrade....
Thanks,

 

I just bought a 2014 ML63. I was driving an Infiniti FX35. I'm taking the 8" Cerwin Vega subwoofers, box and monoAmp out and putting it in the ML Monday.
I can let u know what I think, if interested. I'm pretty sure its going to thump pretty good. My Infiniti had the 8 speaker surround Bose with subwoofer, like the HC. I had these CV's
put in and it was great. Hoping for a repeat. I know the cab area in my ML is larger than the FX but I think itll do fine.....

 

You posted the same message yesterday...

 

Got any photos of your setup?
Amps under rear bench & Sub box in boot?
Also, did you have any issues with heat under the bench, there is not a lot of air flow (if any at all) so I was worried my amps would go into protect mode.

 

Yes, yes, yes, no, to answer your questions, in order.

 

I looked at doing this, but i run them pretty hard and it was already pretty hot in there, so opted to mount both amps on the back of the rear seat upright.
So I went for this instead:









I also upgraded the front drivers and tweeters to MTX TX6 splits. Car now sounds awesome!

 

okay, you have a w164 and you're posting in the w166 forum. Different setup, wrong forum. Mods -- please move.