When i read my dipstick, i think it indicates at min level, but i am not 100 percent sure. It make sense if u put 8l, u r at middle, and i put 7.5, i am at min level

 

Seriously? My oil is pitch black again within seconds of an oil change. I’ll have to use your cleaning method.

I wonder if you’ll have to do the double change every oil change to keep it that clean?

I also live in Calgary. I’ve had pretty good luck at finding MB 229.52 on sale at Parts Source or Canadian tire.: pennzoil platinum euro lx 0-w30. That reduces the oil change price dramatically.

I’ve read your engine mod thread: Impressive mileage. The best I’ve got is 7.8 l/100km on a round trip to Jasper

 

If you are in Calgary, u definitely should go contact Sam @ ECUprogram, get ur ml dpf, scr delete and egr disable, u will feel day and night different of the ml.

In terms of fuel efficiency, i really like shell vpower. I still try to find the bio diesel percentage for regular diesel. I truly believe the regular diesel has higher than 5 percent of bio diesel. My ml will get less km per tank if i use the regular diesel.

How much u paying for ur oil change? Honestly, the price fcp euro offer r really fair, not too expansive. And i am a fan of liquid molly products, which fcp euro sells half price compare to Amazon.

I put approximately 500km on my ml since the oil change. The oil started getting little darker, and now i can gell i am little low. I added another 500ml into it. I will check it again after another 500km

 

Today i finally have time to flush my brake. Overall it wasn't hard. This is my first time doing a brake flush, i was kinda nervous to begin with, but it turns out easier than oil change.

I give all the credit to fcp euro. The tools that they recommend and the procedures they showed in the video really helped me out.

The only issues i have was the extraction pump that i order do not hold the fluid after extracted. I believe i got a defective product.

While flushing the brake fluid, i changed the rim center cap since the oem one has been damaged. Again, one of the few problem i recognized when i purchased the vehicle. The ebay center cap turns out really good. For less than $20, i am really happy with the center caps.



Here is stuffs i used in this brake flush. The jack adapters was ok, not as good as i expected

I cleaned the area before before i start flushing the brake

I really like this brake fluid tester, give me a good reason to flush my brake

I started with 5psi then i increased to 15 psi

Really like this product, for $99, it makes the brake flush super easy

Be patient, it takes a while for the brake fluid to drain out



Wheel is super dirty, but center cap is brand new.

Time to say good bye to the OEM blue center cap

I upgraded my hood emblem as well, so i can have all the black emblems on my car


It was PITA to remove the OEM. This one i ordered from ebay. It was like $7. The quality is ok and fitment was horrible. I have to cut one of the top pin out and replaced with 3m tape to make it work. I probably will order another one from ebay once this one start fading

 

I also live in Calgary. I’ve had pretty good luck at finding MB 229.52 on sale at Parts Source or Canadian tire.: pennzoil platinum euro lx 0-w30. That reduces the oil change price dramatically.

I checked out the Canadian Tire today. You know what, you are right! The price is awesome I cant resisted. I brought 2 5L Jug to try it out I guess time to say good bye to Liquid molly engine oil. Just wonder where did you get your filter ? Like engine filter and oil filter ?

 

I get the filters from the MB dealer: in my case, Lone Star. They are only a few dollars more than the filters you can get at other places... and I like having a record at MB of the work I’ve done.

 

I recently changed my Transmission Fluid. This is my second time doing it on the 722.9 transmission. I did it once on my GLK, but I didn't drain the torque converter at that time. This time I did drain the torque converter. Honestly, it was very very satisfied to see extra 3L of dirty fluid coming out. Draining the torque converter was a lot more easier than I thought with the ML. All I have to do is use a 27mm socket to rotate the engine and the access hole are very easy to get to. I didn't know that there is a washer for the torque converter drain plug, so I didn't ordered an new one. I re-used the old one. Hopefully there will be no leak. The other thing is I didn't really do a good job this time since I got a call for overtime halfway while i was changing the fluid. I rushed and finished the job. I didn't even use the torque wrench to torque the 6 bolts properly. Oh well, when i did a final check, there was no leak, but i guess i will go check it again whenever I have time and not super cold. And i even invested buying one of the expansive torque wrench that has the digital display with audio alarm sound when I reach certain torque, just way too tired that day.


I used 10 Liters of fluid to do this job

This OEM Tools pumps really makes the job easy. And it comes all different type of adapters

I can't remember how much I spent on it, but I really like it. Well worth the money.

The is the torque converter drain plug. You see the washer there. No one ever mentioned to get a new washer

You have to take the engine cover and the shield off in order to access to 27mm bolt to rotate the engine.

This is where you rotate your engine with the 27mm socket.

The shield is secured with 2 8mm bolts

This is the torque converter access hole. Very easy to access. And rotating the engine is a lot more easier than I thought.

Another thing I wasn't able to do is to flush out the old fluid from the oil cooler return line. I tried to use the pump to push the fluid into the oil cooler return line, but it wasn't successful and i got fluid all over me . Then I tried to use a extraction pump to push the fluid in, again, no luck and made a big mess. Oh well, i guess I will do more research next time and try again. I think i just need to make a tube that with a rubber head to plug the return line properly to create enough pressure to push the old fluid out.

So far I put approximately 500km on my car. The car shift a lot more smooth than before. I don't know if I ever mentioned in here. When I got my car, my car was shifting little bit rough, and the used car dealer offer me to take my car to the Mercedes dealership to look at it. Mercedes dealership indicated no fault codes stored in the transmission and they did a software update, which made the car shift a lot better. So i guess with the new software update and the transmission fluid change, my car is in a lot better shape now. I am really happy that I am able to drain the torque converter I honestly don't know why the dealership don't do it and charge like $600 for just drop the pan and replace the filter and 5 liters of fluid. It takes maybe 30 mins more to drain the torque converter. If anyone needs help, feel free to PM me.

Video I used for this transmission fluid change:

 

I just wonder what kind of fuel you guys are using in Canada. I tried to do research on the percentage of bio diesel that mixed in the diesel in different gas station, but no luck, hard to find any information at all. The only thing I can find is some gas station has the label of 5% max bio diesel and some don't.


This is the price we pay in Calgary. I am sure you can find cheaper diesel with no name gas station.But man, $1.27 is PITA to fill up

Notice on the V-Power Side, there is a sticker indicates may contain up to 5% BioDiesel. I really think some of the gas station that sells cheaper diesel are mixed with higher percentage of bio diesel.

And on our door sticker, it clearly stated that can only take max 5 percent bio diesel

So many good reviews on the Liqui moly super diesel additive. So far, i didn't notice too much difference. In fact, i feel like the Power Service Diesel Kleen & Cetane Boost from Canadian Tire give better mileage boost

Lots of people asked me what is my fuel consumption mix between city and hwy. So I did a little bit under half tank and with lots of idling and city driving, it averaged 7.7L, which is not too bad.

 

Thanks for sharing! im getting ready to do my trans fluid on the ML350 (im only at 76k miles but i believe that's the MB interval).
Looks like you ordered the liqui moly kit from FPC Euro. Why that kit over the pentosin brand kit?

also, in the oil change photo it doesnt appear to be a MB brand filter that came out of the car. Might explain why the internals were so nasty if previous owner went extended changes with a cheap filter...

 

I really like liqui moly products, but i guess this is a personal preference. As long as you get some brand new fluid goes in, i think the transmission will be really happy. I honestly think the MB interval are wayyyyy tooo long. My services record indicated my car had a transmission serviced at MB dealer at 150000km and I am at 180000km now, the oil that drained out was BLACK.

I think the oil filter that I took out are OEM mb filter. It just the change interval are way too long in my opinion. I am gonna do mine every 10000km instead of 15000km and see if it improve the condition of the oil. Give a shot and try to do it yourself Make sure you get all the tools before you start the job. It really satisfy after you completed

 

I do similar 7500mi engine oil change, but its probably overkill as they have done enough testing to show no problems to 10k. I believe the MB filters have a zig-zag pleated element, or at least they do on the petrol 3.5L, maybe the diesel is a different filter type?

 

Ya diesel have a different filter. I also think diesel are so much dirtier compare to gas engine

 

I was at Canadian tire last week when this was on sale. I saw, what I assume, was a husband and wife with two carts and they had 5 or 6 jugs each.

 

How do you wire the LED star to parking light?

 

I haven't wire the led star yet. Gonna wait for next summer. I am gonna tap into the daytime running lights. It really simple. There are few videos online, i will probably make another update once i that done

 

What do you guys think of these side emblem ? Just saying my ML350 bluetec does have turbo and 4 matic, so not so much just poster.... but i still have mixing feeling with the side emblem. Sometimes i feel like it too much, sometimes i feel like it give a sporty look on the vehicle. i never seen anyone put that on the ML350 yet

 

I would (and did) debadge rather than fake my truck. Nice thread, btw. Ever consider swapping out the OEM oil filter for something like this?

 

I also de-badged my vehicle.

It now only has the Benz logo front and back plus the wheels.

I think it looks a lot cleanew.

 

I don't think i am faking my truck since it does have a turbo and 4matic system in it, so I just wish I can see that In person how it look. I may just buy it and tap it on and see.

What kind of oil filter is that one? It looks interesting. Any clearance issue with the hood close? or melting the insulation on the hood ?

 

And i just ordered the carbon fiber mirror cover Cant wait to install them to give my car an updated look

 

Mann oil filter. I installed an oil filter adapter kit from a machine shop in your neck of the woods.

 

What is the advantage compare to the OEM oil filter ? Also, do you still have ur HR springs on your w166?

 

Bigger is better?


Initially, I was hell-bent on keeping the engine oil nice and clean/clear. An oil change would result in jet black oil within days of driving, it was/is nuts. I adopted an oil change ritual of running Liqui Moly engine flush thru the engine, flushing it with cheapo oil, run & drain, then refilling with high-zinc oil. I believed that superior filtration couldn't hurt either, hence the big-a$$ oil filter.

Yes, still running the H&R springs in the rear only, wanted to level out the truck. The rear end was up in the air much like my '14 Grand Cherokee SRT, looked like a gorilla waiting to be mounted...

 

Oh man, that a huge filter. Do you have any pictures of the vehicle after lowed in the rear? My wife keep complaining sitting in back feels like sitting in the boat.