W166 -ML 350 BLUETEC-190hp-Engine STOPED While Driving and then DO NOT turn anymore
I will try to explain the short story/history/symtoms of the car.THERE ARE 2 INCIDENTS..don t know if is any LINK between them...
Started 2 years ago that appear minor problems but with High RISK!
First signs was 2 years ago while driving the car on road with 80-90km/h and suddenly stopped the engine at 90km and also stopped all the electronics on dashbord turned off for a few seconds....I was lucky to stop the car safe ...without brakes and stering whell that moved verry hard because no engine running...i was waiting 1 min and then turn the key ,engine start! everything was ok,running like before . I was driving directly to MB service (out of warranty) and they told me that might be the auxiliary battery And main baterry should be replaced.i do that and replaced,Also i remember on diagnosis appear just 1 error,say something with High Voltage protection..don t remember exactly,No problems for 4-5 months and again happened the same thing.. Again was to MB SERVICE but this time no errors found..they keep the car 2 weeks but never happened to them same thing...so they don t know what was happening.Startkng from 2nd incident each 6 months happened 2 times more and then i do the service only to a local repair shop...a bad choice/experience to do that service with local repair shop.You will find why was bad chioice...(that sercice repairshop have good reputation because the main Mechanic worked for a long time to MB and was verry experienced...) with car service and now i have a lot of problems with the car.
—Now 2nd INCIDENT! My car has 160.000 km and a few days ago stopped like before but this time no starting,no turn to the engine.ALL dashboard electronics are ok,feels like without power/battery. I put the car on trailer and go to the local mechanik,he told me that is the starter problem,need to be replaced.I changed the starter and still the engine no turn!He SAID the engine is BLOCKED,i didn t belive him and put again the car on trailer and send to MB.
SAME STORY,Engine BLOCKED! ,do not turn! I said is not true because my car has no smoke,no strange noise,no cranks,everything hear ok before the engine stopped.I take out the car from mercedes and send it to another friend wich i remember he was working to a car service.He looked on the engine and find out the problem,THE crankshaft flywheel is damaged,some components from this piece goes behind the flywheel and is locked/blocked.
After the CRANKSHAFT FLYWHELL was replaced,he turned with key manualy the engine and now the engine was turing...so is NOT BLOCKED! GOOD NEWS! But—- when checked the oil appear a big PROBLEM! the oil looks like JAM!! (I will try to post the picture!) That mean the oil was not changed for atleast 40.000KM.I think the 1st local mechanik wich changed the starter didn t make any replacement of oil/filters of my car....
He cleaned/flushed the engine and put a new oil filter and new oil.Also he replaced the fuel filter. The engine was started, and keep the fingers crossed to not hear any noise from the engine due bad oil problem..NO NOISE WHEN STARTING THE ENGINE,but after 15-20 seconds the engine shout down!(now the dashbord electronics do not shut down..just the engine) Started a few times and after 15-20 seconds the engine shut down.
Now,he think is a problem with fuel pump..will try to replace(no errors on diagnostic,no errors on board,tomorrow will try with STAR diagnostic tool) .Also he think is possibile the DPF ,exaust engine pipe,he think the engine shout down because no fuel is enough to keep the engine running...
ANY SUGESSTIONS? SOME ONE HAVE ANY IDEAS? I appreciate!
THANK YOU FOR READING ,i will update here if i find out the problem...








Also if try to inceease the acceleration the engine stops
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I use only MB original or mobil 1.

I use only MB original or mobil 1.
I'd replace the oil every 8000-10000km (5000-6000 miles) depending on your driving situation. The MB oil is not very good and expensive. I've been using Amsoil oil and it works well, and I've heard the Liqui Moly oil works good as well. Make sure you get something certified by MB 229.51 or MB 229.52. 229.52 oil is preferred but 229.51 works as well. DO NOT USE oil with 229.5 certification only.
I'd replace the oil every 8000-10000km (5000-6000 miles) depending on your driving situation. The MB oil is not very good and expensive. I've been using Amsoil oil and it works well, and I've heard the Liqui Moly oil works good as well. Make sure you get something certified by MB 229.51 or MB 229.52. 229.52 oil is preferred but 229.51 works as well. DO NOT USE oil with 229.5 certification only.








Be frank, I wouldn't suggest you to keep trying those cleaners and replacing oil. If you really want to do it, use some cheap diesel oil (like the Delvac 5W-40 you can find in Walmart) since you are replacing it in a short time, as long as it's DPF compatible (no zinc in the oil).
Instead, if I were you I would do the following:
1. Find someone who has Star/Xentry and read out if there's any trouble code in the engine module. As Peter mentioned, it's not very likely the shutoff is due to the sludge, but something else is happening in the engine so there might be a trouble code. Further, monitor the essential sensors data with the Star/Xentry until the engine shuts off to see if you can find any clue.
2. If no clue is found, I would hoist the engine out and inspect the crank bearings and seals, before deciding what you want to do next. This only requires removal of the oil pan+pickup tube once the engine is out. Also this can give you a better idea about the internal of the engine, as of how badly it's gunked up and if any critical part is loose. Also inspect the timing chain as it's the part that easily gets damaged with the sludge buildup. Not to mention that with the engine out and oil pans removed it's much easier to clean the internal parts with whatever cleaner you want to use, plus physical scrubbing.
I understand that you want to solve the issue with minimum possible amount of work. I used to do this before but sometimes it ended up costing me more. Hoisting a MB engine is not that much work as you might imagine. To hoist the OM642 out of a W166 you only need to disconnect the harness from ECU and fuel line from the pump feeding, intake (just the 2 charge air ducts) and exhaust, and then remove the coolant hoses and detach the A/C compressor from the engine (no need to discharge the A/C system). Then you can disconnect the engine from transmission and lift it out. There's plenty of room in the front so it doesn't even need to remove the radiator.
Instead, if I were you I would do the following:
1. Find someone who has Star/Xentry and read out if there's any trouble code in the engine module. As Peter mentioned, it's not very likely the shutoff is due to the sludge, but something else is happening in the engine so there might be a trouble code. Further, monitor the essential sensors data with the Star/Xentry until the engine shuts off to see if you can find any clue.
2. If no clue is found, I would hoist the engine out and inspect the crank bearings and seals, before deciding what you want to do next. This only requires removal of the oil pan+pickup tube once the engine is out. Also this can give you a better idea about the internal of the engine, as of how badly it's gunked up and if any critical part is loose. Also inspect the timing chain as it's the part that easily gets damaged with the sludge buildup. Not to mention that with the engine out and oil pans removed it's much easier to clean the internal parts with whatever cleaner you want to use, plus physical scrubbing.
I understand that you want to solve the issue with minimum possible amount of work. I used to do this before but sometimes it ended up costing me more. Hoisting a MB engine is not that much work as you might imagine. To hoist the OM642 out of a W166 you only need to disconnect the harness from ECU and fuel line from the pump feeding, intake (just the 2 charge air ducts) and exhaust, and then remove the coolant hoses and detach the A/C compressor from the engine (no need to discharge the A/C system). Then you can disconnect the engine from transmission and lift it out. There's plenty of room in the front so it doesn't even need to remove the radiator.
no errors on dashboard or on star... it is possibile (i don t know how to say in english) that that the engine/jump out /slide from chain..is not on 0 anymore ?




no errors on dashboard or on star... it is possibile (i don t know how to say in english) that that the engine/jump out /slide from chain..is not on 0 anymore ?



no errors on dashboard or on star... it is possibile (i don t know how to say in english) that that the engine/jump out /slide from chain..is not on 0 anymore ?1 : to change the CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS(access from oil bath to make the change)
2: Rocker/tapped (to replace) this we will do after we will complete 1 step....
What do you say about this steps?
thank you
any chance to fix the engine? Can have more damages?
see the new video.Thx









