add tow hitch for bike rack to 2015 ML 350?
I did a search and could not find any being sold that were compatible with the vehicle year / make. Thanks!
So at least 2 hitches there. Note that if you have the Active Curve Option, there is not Trailer Hitch that is compatible.
Last edited by Etienne Lau; May 22, 2021 at 09:10 PM. Reason: Adding
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...-bluetech.html




I did a search and could not find any being sold that were compatible with the vehicle year / make. Thanks!
The reason is that it includes a rear SAM (Signal Acquisition Module - com puter) which integrates engine mapping, fault diagnosis, trailer light out in the instrument cluster, a tow mode, and many other electronic features.
In addition, and maybe most importantly, (and the reason for the high installation charge) is that a factory hitch includes internal chassis reinforcements to achieve the full 7,200 pound capacity, along with the ability to use a WDH (weight distributing hitch). Much of the rear of the car must be dismantled to install those internal reinforcements. When installed at the factory ($750 option) all those bits go on during production, so no R&R is required.
The takeaway - all the Bolt-On aftermarket hitches are not anchored well into the chassis, so towing a full sized load is questionable. The Curt hitches of the world are only safe for trays and bicycle racks.
Since you are only wanting to carry stuff on a rack, you'll be OK, but it's not advisable to use the hitch as you would a factory hitch.




Here's a picture of the complete hitch kit. Notice the arms toward the front of the picture - these are inserted into the chassis as reinforcement. Your aftermarket hitch doesn't have the whole package to achieve the tow rating that Mercedes assigns to the complete factory kit.
I don't think I'd be comfortable using a typical U-Haul wiring tap - that went out with CAN-BUS.
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The takeaway - all the Bolt-On aftermarket hitches are not anchored well into the chassis, so towing a full sized load is questionable. The Curt hitches of the world are only safe for trays and bicycle racks.
Since you are only wanting to carry stuff on a rack, you'll be OK, but it's not advisable to use the hitch as you would a factory hitch.
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"The takeaway - all the Bolt-On aftermarket hitches are not anchored well into the chassis, so towing a full sized load is questionable The Curt hitches of the world are only safe for trays and bicycle racks. " that you didn't answer!!!
Last edited by Koenig1; May 25, 2021 at 01:35 PM.




"The takeaway - all the Bolt-On aftermarket hitches are not anchored well into the chassis, so towing a full sized load is questionable The Curt hitches of the world are only safe for trays and bicycle racks. " that you didn't answer!!!
It's up to you to search for more if you care to.
Airforums is another good source for that info. Shouldn't be too hard for you to find.
Also Hitch Hints articles, that show deflection measurements of various hitches.
Or you can just ignore my comment if you don't want to do the work.




However @Koenig1 posted about his Curt hitch installation, which is alarming if he intends to pull a full-sized trailer.
So I clarified the opinion that it's a real trailer hitch - it's not, which is why I said "The Curt hitches of the world are only safe for trays and bicycle racks."
Just putting things in perspective.
It's up to you to search for more if you care to.
Airforums is another good source for that info. Shouldn't be too hard for you to find.
Also Hitch Hints articles, that show deflection measurements of various hitches.
Or you can just ignore my comment if you don't want to do the work.
To the OP, sorry for all the BS posts tying up your thread.
However @Koenig1 posted about his Curt hitch installation, which is alarming if he intends to pull a full-sized trailer.
So I clarified the opinion that it's a real trailer hitch - it's not, which is why I said "The Curt hitches of the world are only safe for trays and bicycle racks."
Just putting things in perspective.
You BOTH are talking about pulling trailers and the OP is not interested in pulling trailers of any kind.








You BOTH are talking about pulling trailers and the OP is not interested in pulling trailers of any kind.
As long as the aftermarket hitch isn't used for towing, it will work just fine!
Thanks.
I’ve been looking for the last week to find a suitable hitch. My problem with the two that etrailer have is the lower brace…it seems to hang way down, opposed to the factory with only the receiver peeping out…just aesthetics…I finally ordered a used factory hitch from eBay.
And the old school I haul hack and tap wire harness has been upgraded…Tekonsha has a nice setup that senses current from the wires, rather than splicing into the wires…$220 from etrailer. wont allow for a trailer brake, only a 4 pole setup…
So at least 2 hitches there. Note that if you have the Active Curve Option, there is not Trailer Hitch that is compatible.
How can I find out if my ML350 has the Active Curve Option?
Thank you in advance.
Put your VIN in here:
www.lastvin.com
Last edited by rapidoxidation; May 14, 2022 at 05:44 PM.
I installed it on my ML but only the piece that mounts to the four bolts on the back bumper. The piece that connects the bottom of the hitch to the cross member behind the differential, it sits a half an inch into the cross member. So I didn’t connect it yet.
I attached my hitch carrier and sat on it and held my weight with no issue.
I need to snap a picture and send to etrailer and see what their advice is.




