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Hi guys, been a while since I’ve been on these forums. I bought this truck back in 2017 and it's been my daily ever since. With covid and being remote I finally have time to have some fun with it.
Mods so far:
TDI Tuning Box: 330HP 530 FT LB
Sprint Booster Throttle Response (a must on these tuned down diesels)
Custom Catch Can
Sequential Turn Signals
MB Illuminated Star
21" OEM AMG Wheels
Alpine + 12" Subs added to HK Sound System
Front Windows: 15% Ceramic Tint
Here it is when I bought it in 2017 on the factory 19's:
Sitting next to the car that brought me to the MB gang, my 86' 190E 2.3:
Even got a little tow action in:
I bought the truck used with 156k km on it, so the paint was not in the greatest condition with plenty of dents, rock chips, etc. It was in a minor rear-end collision last year, since I work remotely it's no longer a highway warrior on a daily basis. I decided to do a full respray to bring it back to its former glory:
After that, I was able to source some 21x10 OEM AMG wheels for a pretty sweet deal. These came off of a GL so it actually has the incorrect tire size right now, sitting on 295/40/21. Next summer I plan on getting the correct 295/35/21 along with refinishing them gloss black with the polished lip. Unfortunately I don't have Airmatic so I can't adjust the ride height that easily (but at least it's reliable haha). The offset is also pretty aggressive so I went ahead and order some GLE 63S replica fenders from CKM to give it more of an OEM look.
Sequential Turn Signals installed, pretty terrifying trying to get these mirrors apart but I was successful:
Alpine MRV-500 and two 12" Cerwin Vega's make a solid improvement to the already great Harmon Kardon system:
Illuminated MB Star installed, I actually didn't like these at first but they grew on me. So I decided to give it a shot:
Integrated Rearview Mirror Dashcam, the camera works great but using the app to download content is a bit sketchy:
Being remote and having the truck sit for days in negative degree weather meant that the 8-year-old battery was starting to show its age. Replaced it with an Interstate AGM and it's back to starting on a dime.
After getting into my own maintenance I started to realize the issue with the PCV and oil being pulled into the turbo, so I decided to build my own catch can setup. It definitely helps but I think I will still need to replace the PCV valve at some point.
Currently it's sitting with around 216k on it and while there have been a few inconveniences (*ahem* Nox sensors) its been pretty reliable so far with regular maintenance. I'm definitely looking to do an SCR/DPF/EGR delete in the future. I'm also very keen on trying to take apart my intake manifold and clean the infamous diesel carbon once I build up the knowledge/courage to do so.
Looks good! How did you connect the new amp to the existing system? I know it’s fiber optic so did you use high low converters off the rear speakers or something to feed the new amp? I want to do the same thing to mine.
Looks good! How did you connect the new amp to the existing system? I know it’s fiber optic so did you use high low converters off the rear speakers or something to feed the new amp? I want to do the same thing to mine.
My amp has a built-in high level input so I didn't need a separate converter. It also has signal detection to turn on the amp so no need to find a separate remote turn on, most modern converters have that built in these days. I tapped into the signal from the rear trunk subwoofer, it has both left and right inputs from the factory amp. This does mean that you need to remove the rear cargo area panels on the subwoofer side.
Nice build!! Can you share more about the GLE63 fender and how you did your oil catch can. Keep it up buddy
I bought the fender kit from CKM. Pretty good quality overall, of course keep in mind this is not an original kit so it takes some finessing to fit.
Examples of this:
The front bumper fender piece will need to be trimmed lengthwise since this kit also fits the GLE with sport package which has a long front bumper apron, the ML sport package bumper is a bit shorter unless you have an ML63 kit, either way make sure you do your own test fit. Just need to line the fender up with the bumper cut off, mark the length and cut with a proper hack saw blade, light sanding on the edge to smooth any roughness. Preferably do the trimming before you get them painted.
The front and rear quarter panels have a pretty sharp curve towards the rocker panel (running board area) I found that I needed to use a heat gun to make sure that the fender would be able to make the curve and not pull the tape away. One more disclaimer about the tape, it does come with the proper 3M automotive body tape. It is extremely strong and unforgiving so take your time, keep the heat gun handy and make sure you clean the vehicle body properly with acetone.
As for the catch can, I essentially just intercepted the original PCV valve hose which is 3/4" in diameter. One thing I would consider is to actually replace the PCV valve before doing the can install because if yours is faulty it can still fill up the can pretty quickly. I made my own custom mount which I would have to go take some additional pics of, but here are some pics of the connection to the PCV:
I bought the fender kit from CKM. Pretty good quality overall, of course keep in mind this is not an original kit so it takes some finessing to fit.
Examples of this:
The front bumper fender piece will need to be trimmed lengthwise since this kit also fits the GLE with sport package which has a long front bumper apron, the ML sport package bumper is a bit shorter unless you have an ML63 kit, either way make sure you do your own test fit. Just need to line the fender up with the bumper cut off, mark the length and cut with a proper hack saw blade, light sanding on the edge to smooth any roughness. Preferably do the trimming before you get them painted.
The front and rear quarter panels have a pretty sharp curve towards the rocker panel (running board area) I found that I needed to use a heat gun to make sure that the fender would be able to make the curve and not pull the tape away. One more disclaimer about the tape, it does come with the proper 3M automotive body tape. It is extremely strong and unforgiving so take your time, keep the heat gun handy and make sure you clean the vehicle body properly with acetone.
As for the catch can, I essentially just intercepted the original PCV valve hose which is 3/4" in diameter. One thing I would consider is to actually replace the PCV valve before doing the can install because if yours is faulty it can still fill up the can pretty quickly. I made my own custom mount which I would have to go take some additional pics of, but here are some pics of the connection to the PCV:
I think I read here somewhere in the forum about how the catch can might hinder PCV operation as a restriction?? Simply, catch can is saturated with oil in the long run if not serviced?
I am thinking about putting a oil catch can like yourself. But unsure what drama this might cause once unserviceable.
I think I read here somewhere in the forum about how the catch can might hinder PCV operation as a restriction?? Simply, catch can is saturated with oil in the long run if not serviced?
I am thinking about putting a oil catch can like yourself. But unsure what drama this might cause once unserviceable.
The idea behind a catch can is that you need to empty it out every once in a while. And, if the hoses are wide enough which certainly appears to be the case here, it should breathe just fine and won't result in excessive crankcase pressure.
I think I read here somewhere in the forum about how the catch can might hinder PCV operation as a restriction?? Simply, catch can is saturated with oil in the long run if not serviced?
I am thinking about putting a oil catch can like yourself. But unsure what drama this might cause once unserviceable.
I mounted the can front and center so that I have easy access to empty it, there is ample room in that area to unscrew it from the bottom. Also, I went with a larger can so that I have more time in between emptying it. I am using the same diameter hose as the factory PCV there should not be an issue, it's been running for at least a year now with no leaks on the engine to indicate higher crankcase pressure.
Fun little update for you all, I decided to go in a different direction with my wheel setup. I started seeing some GL's with A/T tire setups and decided it would be a unique / more functional setup for the ML. I went ahead and sold the 21's and picked up some 20x9.5 "multispoke" wheels with Mercedes spec. Tires are 275/45/20 Falken Wildpeak A/T Trails, these are getting great reviews amongst the CUV crowd since they have a great mix between on-road comfort and offroad ability.
I've got the Falken wildpeak AT Trail 265/50/20 on my ML and for the most part, I love them. They're surprisingly quiet, grippy, and speed rated to well over what I'll be doing with them. Their grip in weather is less than ideal though: Snow? Forget it. That's what the Blizzaks are for. Rain? God help you if you hit any length of puddle at speed; these tires have zero pumping ability and you'll float across the puddle like you're in a pontoon boat.
Just fair warning. I like the tires, but I know the limitations.
Oh boy, thats good to know! I still have my winter tire setup for the snow. I have yet to drive in any heavy rain, but they do perform in dry weather exactly as you described. I've only had them for a couple of months now, time will tell.
I've got the Falken wildpeak AT Trail 265/50/20 on my ML and for the most part, I love them. They're surprisingly quiet, grippy, and speed rated to well over what I'll be doing with them. Their grip in weather is less than ideal though: Snow? Forget it. That's what the Blizzaks are for. Rain? God help you if you hit any length of puddle at speed; these tires have zero pumping ability and you'll float across the puddle like you're in a pontoon boat.
Just fair warning. I like the tires, but I know the limitations.
This has no bearing on the grip of the tires, but if you're running 265/50-20 tires instead of the OEM 265/45-20 size, you're also introducing a 3.55% error in the overall wheel diameter and thus the speedo readout (your actual speed will be 3.55% higher than what is indicated). Was there a specific reason you chose to go with the higher sidewall height?
Oh boy, thats good to know! I still have my winter tire setup for the snow. I have yet to drive in any heavy rain, but they do perform in dry weather exactly as you described. I've only had them for a couple of months now, time will tell.
Do you have any pics of the 265/50 setup?
If you have a dedicated set of winters (a VERY good idea in Ontario), why would you go with all-terrain, all-season tires instead of a proper summer tire?
This has no bearing on the grip of the tires, but if you're running 265/50-20 tires instead of the OEM 265/45-20 size, you're also introducing a 3.55% error in the overall wheel diameter and thus the speedo readout (your actual speed will be 3.55% higher than what is indicated). Was there a specific reason you chose to go with the higher sidewall height?
There's no doubt the speedo reads a bit low. The taller sidewall makes up for deeper potholes and offers a bit better protection of aluminum rims. Zero rubbing issues at any ride height and in any conditions, so I'm pretty pleased with the choice.
As far as having an all season tire (the Falken) and a dedicated winter tire, well... These all seasons do quite well for 6 months out of the year and realistically the weather could be anything it chooses to be. We had a day of snow just a couple of weeks ago. Summer is just a range of dates on the calendar; we've had snow in August. Plus, a summer tire would flail on the forest roads I sometimes find myself on. It's an SUV and gets used as such. Good to have a tire that can go 135mph on the way to the trails...
Oh boy, thats good to know! I still have my winter tire setup for the snow. I have yet to drive in any heavy rain, but they do perform in dry weather exactly as you described. I've only had them for a couple of months now, time will tell.
But more to the point of this thread, how's that tuning chip doing with everything downstream? Any transmission issues holding onto all that power and torque?
If you have a dedicated set of winters (a VERY good idea in Ontario), why would you go with all-terrain, all-season tires instead of a proper summer tire?
When I had the 21's those had dedicated summer times and I wasn't super impressed, that setup also required dedicated winter wheels, so I still have them. I went to 20's because I wanted more sidewall as to not destroy my wheels anytime I breathed near a curb.
These would also serve better for cottage runs and with them being 3 peak rated I thought they might do well in the winter. I will still give them a try in the snow, but if they don't serve that purpose I can always switch them out for the winters. Also more importantly these look cooler
Originally Posted by rapidoxidation
But more to the point of this thread, how's that tuning chip doing with everything downstream? Any transmission issues holding onto all that power and torque?
The tune has been great, I've had no transmission issues with this vehicle so far. Although the 722.9 is not the most polished transmission so its hard to tell when there's an actual issue and when its just normal operation
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