Brake pad sensor went off on my 2015 ML350 with @ 70K miles. Rear looks fine, front is very low. I'm aware that MB suggests changing rotors along with pads (I'm assuming this is money motivated), even though every other car I've owned I've been able to do pads only. My business got hammered by Covid and money is tight, so I was really hoping I wouldn't have to spend a small fortune on a brake job. That said, after reading a lot of threads in this forum, I want OEM parts and not aftermarket parts.

I stopped by to get a quote from a local independent shop that specializes in MB. They have stellar reviews on every platform I could find, much higher than any other shop in my area, with many people commending them for their honesty and integrity. The manager said they would put it on the rack and do their thing and confirm with me whether the pads and rotors would both have to be done (which he said was usually the case). He assured me they only use official MB parts. He gave me a verbal estimate for the brake pads and sensor replacement (which was $300 cheaper than the ridiculous dealer quote) and the rotors replacement (which was only $70 cheaper than the ridiculous dealer quote).

I asked him where he would buy the parts from and he said the dealer. I've been in this forum long enough to know there are several sites selling legit OEM parts for MB at lower prices than the dealer. I asked why he couldn't order OEM parts cheaper and he said he would only order OES parts. It's my understanding that OEM parts are built by the same manufacturer and/or to the exact same specifications outlined by the manufacturer and the same as OES parts. Am I wrong about that?

If you can get the SAME EXACT part cheaper, why would it matter if he uses OEM or OES?

Worse case scenario and I have to do front and rear pads and rotors, I need to save money any way I can. There's another shop that has done great with some of our family cars (Toyota, Honda, etc) but they said they would use aftermarket parts to do it cheaper.

If you were in my shoes (and temporarily broke as I am) but still wanted parts as good as MB but cheaper, what would you recommend and where should I (or the shop) buy them from?

Thanks!

 

Just about every aftermarket (non-chinese) branded disks will suit and be cheaper, unless you have a specific requirement. Go and look at FCP Euro or even Rockauto and you'll probably see Brembo rotors, for example, at cheaper than the stealer as well as genuine ones.

The experience is probably better with pads - but you need to know what you want. I assume from what you've said that your happy with the factory performance of the brakes. ATE, Zimmerman, Brembo are all at a minimum better than stock. I think ATE are the OEM supplier of rotors and maybe even pads, but others might know better. See this link
https://www.fcpeuro.com/Mercedes~Ben...b=11&d=4519&v=

However, the aftermarket wear sensors have shown to be less than ideal so I'd buy genuine ones. You don't need an MB shop for the brake repairs. They are straight forward to replace other than sorting the electric park brake, so most shops should be more than capable. They're generally a DIY if you're handy with tools and have jack stands.

If you're not sure on brands in the aftermarket, make a short list and come back and check on the forum. You'll get plenty of advice.

 

OES parts are same as OEM, just cheaper. Aftermarket parts, as BlackML550 stated, can be both cheaper and better. I've had great experience with Porterfield carbon based, semi-metallic pads and R1 Concepts rotors.
https://gmb.net/blog/oem-vs-oes-parts/

 

My hesitancy about aftermarket pads and rotors came from reading through threads in this forum. It seemed like a lot of people had negative experiences and advised against it. Obviously you guys know what you're talking about and it seems like I don't need to be so paranoid about it. That said, I'm not mechanically inclined or knowledgeable about this stuff, so I always feel at a disadvantage walking into a repair shop. I wouldn't know one brand from the other, so maybe I should ask this question:

If you were in my shoes (having financial issues but wanting to make sure I have very safe and reliable parts as good as the originals) and needed to save as much money as possible, what exact parts would you recommend and where would you recommend to buy from?

 

Thanks. I looked at the site and the prices look good. Since I don't know one brand from the other, maybe I will ask the second shop (who aren't insistent on using dealer parts) what they recommend and come back for advice as you suggested. Thanks again.

 

Thanks. Obviously you've had a LOT of experience and have owned a lot of MB's over the years! This is my first and hearing that a brake job was $2K was scary, especially being temporarily broke. I will look into the ones you mentioned and thanks again.

 

Here's a quote I got from R1 Concepts. Bear in mind it was 6-1/2 years ago and for a coupe, but they're a forum sponsor and will give you a member discount:

Front Premier Series Cross Drilled Rotors
total: $260 Shipped

F/R Posi Quiet Semi-Metallic Brake Pads (factory replacement)
Total: $85 Shipped
*factory pads came semi-metallic*
F/R Posi Quiet Ceramic Brake Pads (low dust)
Total: $95 Shipped
Brake Sensors (2)
Total: $10 Shipped

CDM Motorsports had a high price on sensors and I found sensors on Amazon for under $5 each shipped, so their cross drilled slotted front rotors and stop tech semi-metallic pads all around came to $208.61 + 46.88 = $255.49

I was a lot more price-sensitive then; in 2019 I paid about $300 shipped for F&R Porterfield R4S pads from ForMyMercedes for my SL.

 

Thanks! I just went to R1 website. If the shop says I need front and rear pads and rotors, is there a price advantage to ordering a "kit" that includes everything?

Looks like they have theirs broken into categories (value, premium, etc.). I want as good as factory or better so which categories should I target?

 

Probably a stupid question, but what are the pros and cons of the drilled rotors versus regular?

 

Drilled rotors are ment to dissipate heat better than standard ones and can assist with brake dust removal, to a point. Its a build up of heat the impacts brake performance. For normal driving they are excessive and you wouldn't notice the difference, if there was one.

 

Thanks! Speaking of brake dust, I've never owned a car that got so dirty so quickly from brake dust. I shine up my wheels and 2 days later they're brown again.

 

yes, kit. Call them; all cheaper than OEM.

Kevin Chavez • Sale Representative
R1 Concepts Inc. - Performance Brake Parts
T 888-712-6623 x 7022 | E Kevin@r1concepts.com

 

Any idea why some in this forum say NOT to use ceramic pads? I've even read some comments saying ceramic pads cause rotor damage? Is this really a thing?

 

Ceramic pads are quiter and produce significnatly less dust and I expect they last longer - and could even be better on disk wear. But they are known to lack that initial 'bite' when braking, and many people don't like that. Some swear by them, others stick to the organic compounds. There are plenty of views on this one!

 

If your looking to avoid brake dust, then don't do the genuine pads. They are typically the poorest in this regard. Look around on the forum and even look at the W164 forum (very similar bralkes if not the same) and see what people recommend.

 

Quieter and less dust works for me!

 

By "genuine" do you mean the official MB pads or also OEM? Better to get a higher quality aftermarket brand?

 

Certainly the MB branded ones. I'm pretty sure they're made by Ate. When looking at pads, search around different online stores and read reviews. Look for advertising that stipulates "low dust" is usually a good guide. Keep in mind there isn't anything that is truly dustless.

Other than for dust, the organic pads are not that dissimilar (excluding high metal content pads and ceramic). Stick to well known brands Ate, Brembo, Jurid, Akkebono (just ceramic I think), Zimmerman, TRW but thats not to say others arent up to it. I put Jurid front pads on mine and they are approaching 55k miles and still going and with great stopping power and low dust.

 

Thanks. I've been way down the rabbit hole reading so many threads and the more I learn, the harder it is to choose between so many different types and brands. I guess money (or lack of LOL) will take some of the options off the table (like the Brembo).

So far, from what I gather, lots of people like Zimmerman and ATE rotors.

For pads, lots of folks seem to like ATE, Akebono, and Centric Posi-Quiet Pads.

That said, I haven't looked up the cost of all these yet. Thanks again.

 

I agree. you're on the right path with all of those. If there were issues with them, you'd see it here somewhere very loud and clear. Make sure you flush the fluid too, thats cheap, and let people know what the end result is. Good luck

 

The second shop (a non-MB shop who have done right by our other cars in the past) suggested resurfacing the rotors and putting on new Akebono Euro pads. Is resurfacing something I should consider???

 

Unless the rotors have groves in them have worn down, or are warping they need nothing done to them,. It
s been a sales thing for more $$ for years now. I had a full service shop for 8 years and would never turns rotors or drums unless required.
I stall do my own work just replace my rear pads/sensors on my w166 with autozone ceramic for $45 (took my time 2 hours). Have had drums and rotors last way past 100K miles all depends on how you drive

 

How many miles since they were new/replaced? MB sugggest that if they are thinner than 29mm then they should be changed. It can be a bit of a false economy. You pay for the labour to extend the life of the rotors by resurfacing them and then they end up not lasting as long as a new set. You mentioned that its financially tough at the moment. Maybe you just change the pads (unless the rotors are warped/scored) with an inexpensive set, and then do it all properly at a later time when things are better? Again, depends on how many miles you have on them and how many you do each year.

 

I hear ya. I bought the CPO 2015 ML350 when it came off a 3 year lease and had 50K miles. According to dealer records, it had original brakes. That was Dec 2017 and since then I've only added 20K miles, so just over 70K miles total. Never had any squeaking or shimmy or vibration when braking, but the "check brake wear" light came on and I could see the front pads were low.

Normally I would change pads AND rotors, but given tough times (my business took a big hit during covid and we're still in recovery mode), I think I'll just do the pads and resurface the rotors this time around. That should keep me going for a while. If I didn't trust the mechanic or the shop, I would be worried, but they have always done right by us in the past. I don't know why I even considered taking it to a MB specialty shop for a simple brake job, but it's always good to get those high quotes first, because now it feels like I'm saving a LOT of money at my regular shop!

Thanks again for all the help. Now time to order the parts...

 

So I've been trying to order the Akebono Euro pad kits online since yesterday and the part numbers are confusing.

F and R are:
EUR1629
EUR1629A
EUR1630
EUR1630A

So far, no online sellers (including FCP and Tire rack) can tell me what the difference is in the ones with "A" at the end. One guy said he thought one came with clips but wasn't sure. Another place said one might be for drilled vs standard rotors, but they couldn't be sure either.

Akebono is closed for the weekend so hopefully they can tell me on Monday, so I know which ones to order.