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I have a 2015 ML350 with about 35K miles. I changed the oil 800 miles ago and now I'm going to be putting the car into storage for 6-9 months. With so few miles on this oil change, is it OK to leave it as is, or should I change the oil again before storing it? A "B" service was done in January.
This is the type of question that stimulates heated controversy, and I'm sure you'll receive many contrary opinions that will leave you more confused than ever!!!
Nevertheless, I'll open the bidding. I store my BMW during the winter months, and I just unwrapped it last week for the summer. I put it to bed with an oil change and about 1,000 miles accumulated. When the annual service reminder dings in July, I'll probably do an oil change with less than an additional 1,000 miles on it. I do my own, and $70 (oil and filter) along with 40 minutes of my time just doesn't make it worth contemplating "should I or shouldn't I".
Here's my ritual:
2 amp battery tender connected (I leave the battery connected).
Fill fuel tank and add fuel stabilizer
Lift vehicle onto jack stands - leave tires touching ground (not on bare concrete) with about 80% weight lifted
(car requires shutting off adaptive suspension when lifted)
Car cover over vehicle after wash and dry
Environmental temperature maintained at 40F - 50F
Protected garage (but with mouse traps set just in case).
You should be fine not changing. I suspect the concern you have revolves around the acidification and contamination of used oil. Not enough use to materially contaminate the oil…especially if you use full synthetic oil (much more pure than conventional, and more additives that will stabilize it and protect engine).
You'll be fine with not changing the oil, but maybe change it earlier than you otherwise would, next time. My best tip for you is to make sure your fuel tank is absolutely full to avoid condensation and corrosion of the fuel system. That is a very expensive repair. If you haven't changed your brake fluid for a while, do it when you get back as there will no doubt be additional moisture in the system.
You'll be fine with not changing the oil, but maybe change it earlier than you otherwise would, next time. My best tip for you is to make sure your fuel tank is absolutely full to avoid condensation and corrosion of the fuel system. That is a very expensive repair. If you haven't changed your brake fluid for a while, do it when you get back as there will no doubt be additional moisture in the system.
We all know that brake fluid is hygroscopic, but how does water enter a sealed system? For a brake system that holds 1 liter of fluid, an unacceptable level of 3% water is 30ml, or about 1/8 cup. This seems an extraordinary amount to attribute to high humidity absorption through a sealed reservoir cap. Maybe frequent driving in axle deep water, submerging your calipers might do it. Osmosis through stainless steel tubing seems unlikely.
Replacing brake fluid is not much more difficult, time-consuming or expensive than an oil change, so it's easier just to do it than worry about it. But I remain curious about how water enters the system. It's like saying you'll always find a thief in a bank vault because there's money there. I'm not trying to start a controversy here -- I'm just curious about opinions regarding how water gets in.
BTW, I also add a recommended amount of fuel stabilizer in addition to filling the tank. I never go over the dispenser shut-off. Most car manufacturers advise against over-filling.
The only answer I have for you is condensation can't form if the tank is full. Here's a photo of the outcome when you don't. New pump and tank required.
The only answer I have for you is condensation can't form if the tank is full. Here's a photo of the outcome when you don't. New pump and tank required.
There was an interesting article in Popular Mechanics several years ago about the behavior of alcohol gasoline. Turns out that alcohol can absorb water up to a certain level of saturation, but beyond that point, the water is released. If/when this happens, damage awaits. I experienced this with a dirt bike I put into winter storage with a topped off tank. Problem was, I stored it in an uninsulated shed where the inside temp could fluctuate probably 20-30 degrees over 24 hours. This caused the gas tank to ventilate (respirate), and enough humidity was absorbed to produce this water precipitation. When I took the bike out of storage in the spring, the gas cap was rusted on, and the entire fuel tank interior was encrusted with oxide, despite its full level of fuel. I would never have believed it had I not experienced it. So topping off the tank might not always be enough. I add Stabil and keep my winter stored car in an insulated garage where the temp remains relatively constant.
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Oil Change needed???
