M-Class (W166) Produced 2012-2015

2013 ML350 intermittent not shifting out of Park

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Old Dec 24, 2024 | 12:42 AM
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2013 ML350
2013 ML350 intermittent not shifting out of Park

My 2013 ML350 has been a dream... until recently. I have had this problem 4 times now. I step on the brake, as I've done hundreds of times... push the start button, then shift into Reverse and nothing happens. Vehicle stays in P. After I step hard on the brake a few times, shut the car off and restart, eventually I can engage the Reverse and Drive normally.

I did go to MB and purchase a Brake Sensor Switch. I removed the 3 screws and replaced this plastic Hall switch. The problem is persisting.

Hard to diagnose an intermittent problem. I've had this now 4 times... and eventually I can get the suv in gear after some brake pedal pushes and on/off.

Anyone have a direction to point me?

I will also add, i believe the vehicle has never had the original batteries changed. Not sure if this is a clue.

Much appreciated.

Last edited by sfhenry; Dec 24, 2024 at 12:51 AM.
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Old Dec 25, 2024 | 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by sfhenry
My 2013 ML350 has been a dream... until recently. I have had this problem 4 times now. I step on the brake, as I've done hundreds of times... push the start button, then shift into Reverse and nothing happens. Vehicle stays in P. After I step hard on the brake a few times, shut the car off and restart, eventually I can engage the Reverse and Drive normally.

I did go to MB and purchase a Brake Sensor Switch. I removed the 3 screws and replaced this plastic Hall switch. The problem is persisting.

Hard to diagnose an intermittent problem. I've had this now 4 times... and eventually I can get the suv in gear after some brake pedal pushes and on/off.

Anyone have a direction to point me?

I will also add, i believe the vehicle has never had the original batteries changed. Not sure if this is a clue.

Much appreciated.
The good news is we don't have to replace any perfectly good parts to figure this out ✌️

Simply use an Mb scanner to read the gear selection from SCM and ISM Modules the you'll know what's wrong.
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Old Dec 25, 2024 | 12:33 PM
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Thank you very much. I purchased a new auxiliary battery and installed it, thinking / hoping that was my problem. It was from April 2012.

Is this scanner something a novice can use and figure our? Or is this a trip to a service center for them to read the codes and diagnosis?
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sfhenry
My 2013 ML350 has been a dream... until recently. I have had this problem 4 times now. I step on the brake, as I've done hundreds of times... push the start button, then shift into Reverse and nothing happens. Vehicle stays in P. After I step hard on the brake a few times, shut the car off and restart, eventually I can engage the Reverse and Drive normally.

I did go to MB and purchase a Brake Sensor Switch. I removed the 3 screws and replaced this plastic Hall switch. The problem is persisting.

Hard to diagnose an intermittent problem. I've had this now 4 times... and eventually I can get the suv in gear after some brake pedal pushes and on/off.

Anyone have a direction to point me?

I will also add, i believe the vehicle has never had the original batteries changed. Not sure if this is a clue.

Much appreciated.
Try changing the auxiliary battery. It's about $30 on amazon. In the right hand corner of the vehicle, just cut the carpet under the first aid kit to gain access with your 10mm wrench
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 07:45 PM
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Yes! Thank you. I did this yesterday. It was dated April 2012... I think it did its job! Was an easy swap out. I did the carpet cut approach. That 10mm ratchet tool was a lifesaver.
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 07:48 PM
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Excellent!
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Old Dec 30, 2024 | 01:33 PM
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Update... not fixed.

So I have replaced the Brake sensor [hall switch] and the Aux battery. I had the issue again this morning, vehicle wouldn't shift out of park. I turned off the car, tried again and everything worked.

Any more thoughts on what could be causing the ML350 to intermittently not shift out of park?
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Old Dec 30, 2024 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by sfhenry
So I have replaced the Brake sensor [hall switch] and the Aux battery. I had the issue again this morning, vehicle wouldn't shift out of park. I turned off the car, tried again and everything worked.

Any more thoughts on what could be causing the ML350 to intermittently not shift out of park?
You want to replace parts without diagnosing ... What's not shifting is the Intelligent Shifter Module aka. ISM.

In post #2 I hinted using a scanner: let your local specialist take care of this repair.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Dec 30, 2024 at 11:17 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2024 | 12:11 AM
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Thank you. I hear ya.
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Old Jan 2, 2025 | 02:40 PM
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My resolution was the following:
1. replace AUX battery
2. replace main battery
3. reset ECU

After you are finished reinstalling the new battery you now need to reset the ECU or your ML350 will not switch gears out of park.

- If you have Keyless Go, pop off the Keyless Go button
- Insert the key
- Turn the key to "ON" - not start - and leave it "ON" for more than 2 minutes
- Turn the key to "OFF", but leave the key "IN" for at least 10 seconds
- After at least 10 seconds, turn the key to "ON", push and hold the brake, turn the key to "START" and the car should start. Verify that you can switch gears.
- If you have Keyless Go replace the Keyless Go button

Last edited by dvakata; Jan 2, 2025 at 02:42 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2025 | 03:19 PM
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Really? I've watched many videos on replacing both Aux battery and the main battery. All I've seen is to keep a constant battery connected via the Red terminal under the hood and the negative ground. Never did I see any of what you posted done, after the main battery was replaced.
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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 02:09 PM
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I have the same issue.... just to add. When I use the pushbutton switch to start the car I have the issue where it will start but not shift into forward or reverse. Foe the heck of it I pulled the start button cover and used the key to start the car. By the way when one uses the key it appears I do not have to hold the brake on to start. Using the key to start the car everything works. forward, reverse, etc. I've tried it back and forth a few times and confirmed the behavior above. I did try a generic ODB reader with no codes. Not willing at this point to shell out 400 bucks to get it read by the dealer. Just trying a few things first. Any thoughts out there ?

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Old Jan 28, 2025 | 06:23 AM
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Same issue. My 2013 ML350 Bluetec will always go into gear using the FOB in the ignition switch but will never go into gear first time using the button. Always moves into gear if the engine is stopped and restarted. Repeatable as clockwork.

Same for both FOBs. FOB and auxilliary batteries both recently replaced.
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Old Jan 28, 2025 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by LfrOz
Same issue. My 2013 ML350 Bluetec will always go into gear using the FOB in the ignition switch but will never go into gear first time using the button. Always moves into gear if the engine is stopped and restarted. Repeatable as clockwork.

Same for both FOBs. FOB and auxilliary batteries both recently replaced.
Mine does not work with the button at all anymore...was occasionally for a while... but now never works. Did you ever get a deep scan by MB ? i ordered a brake switch because it's cheap but keep thinking maybe it's the start button.....
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Old Jan 28, 2025 | 06:42 PM
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what is the status of both batteries? Replaced?
I can guess the button activates internal antenna to constantly verify button presence and it drives battery current down causing shift failure. MB is super sensitive to right voltage
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Old Jan 28, 2025 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by dvakata
what is the status of both batteries? Replaced?
I can guess the button activates internal antenna to constantly verify button presence and it drives battery current down causing shift failure. MB is super sensitive to right voltage

So you say mb are sensitive to battery voltage. I can believe that plus or minus. And your saying the antenna upon pressing the button drives enough current to lower the battery voltage ?
Really ? If that’s the case I should be able to
see that by measuring the battery voltage during those events Or… attach the battery to a charger so the voltage wouldn’t drop. I’m not ***** Nilly swapping out fairly expensive batteries just on a hunch. Is there not any other way of determining root cause vs adhoc replacement?


just a p.s. a 2013 ML350 has two batteries ? Not sure what you’re referring to regarding replacing both batteries.

Last edited by JBonly; Jan 28, 2025 at 07:48 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2025 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JBonly
So you say mb are sensitive to battery voltage. I can believe that plus or minus. And your saying the antenna upon pressing the button drives enough current to lower the battery voltage ?
Really ? If that’s the case I should be able to
see that by measuring the battery voltage during those events Or… attach the battery to a charger so the voltage wouldn’t drop. I’m not ***** Nilly swapping out fairly expensive batteries just on a hunch. Is there not any other way of determining root cause vs adhoc replacement?


just a p.s. a 2013 ML350 has two batteries ? Not sure what you’re referring to regarding replacing both batteries.
That's correct, 2 batteries. And if your signature is correct about 2013 - it is about time to replace both to save yourself tons of headache going forward. Aux batterie available at dealership same price as aftermarket. Main batterie many recommended to get from Costco. It was discussed here bunch of times, just search on it.
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Old Jan 29, 2025 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dvakata
That's correct, 2 batteries. And if your signature is correct about 2013 - it is about time to replace both to save yourself tons of headache going forward. Aux batterie available at dealership same price as aftermarket. Main batterie many recommended to get from Costco. It was discussed here bunch of times, just search on it.
I had read something saying the ml350
didnt have one but checked physically today and confirmed. Have ordered an oem aux battery. Thanks for the heads up.

Last edited by JBonly; Jan 29, 2025 at 06:10 PM.
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Old Feb 4, 2025 | 06:59 AM
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Still looking for a solution why my 2013 ML350 needs the engine started and stopped with keyless go twice before it will move out of park but shifts normally when started with fob used as a key..

Ran Obd scanner and returned no faults.

Another weird thing I discovered .. car will start and shift normally using keyless go if the passenger door is left ajar (but not driver's door)?
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Old Feb 4, 2025 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JBonly
I had read something saying the ml350
didnt have one but checked physically today and confirmed. Have ordered an oem aux battery. Thanks for the heads up.

just an update. Replaced the aux battery. The battery access / replacement procedure that I used on YouTube is totally incorrect. It was one nut removed and the cage holding the battery coms off. Mine were slip on connectors only. And glad
to report my stater button / shift issue appears
to be resolved. As I used it for age days I will confirm but all good for now. Thanks all. ! Never would I have believed here was an aux battery
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Old Feb 4, 2025 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by JBonly
just an update. Replaced the aux battery. The battery access / replacement procedure that I used on YouTube is totally incorrect. It was one nut removed and the cage holding the battery coms off. Mine were slip on connectors only. And glad
to report my stater button / shift issue appears
to be resolved. As I used it for age days I will confirm but all good for now. Thanks all. ! Never would I have believed here was an aux battery
Good to hear! Just a note - the issue may come back if main batterie not up to date. It will slowly discharge aux batterie and after few month you may experience same issue again. From personal experience.
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