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had a couple of cheap Cam Position sensors used prior, and noticed them wicking into the harness. Bought the Bremi sensors, and the Camshaft magnet/ sacrificial pigtails to install.
got all of that done
Now the car is misfiring on Cyl #1. Limping i.e. not good.
All 6 coils/plugs were replaced less than 2,000 miles ago with the Bosch kit.
Following codes read on cheap OBD2
P2088 camshaft actuator, P0183 fuel temp, P0113 air intake temp sensor 1 bank 1 P0098 air intake sensor 2 bank 1
i checked to make sure ECU was connected well, no oil to be found on pins.
Checked the ground I know I removed to replace the magnets on Bank 1.
Pigtails were a precaution but they’re very hot also. The connections at both ends are snug also.
No fuses in the engine bay appear to have blown.
This was a car I bought from a family member when I was in a pinch.
I am financially not in a place to buy a new car so I have tried to buy the most suitable OEM parts to replace to keep her running for as long as possible.
What is the list of recurring faults left after clearing ?
These are the true issues you can focus on.
I replaced the rear vacuum line because it was hardened and difficult to continue to securely re-attach ( yellow striped)
I completely removed everything I touched, then reassembled again checking every connection. Cleaned the throttle body too, to remove any stickiness. Cleaned the Harness connector and kept getting the oil out. Let it dry for 45 minutes before connecting back to ECU.
All of this done with Battery disconnected.
Still have rough idle.
P2088 - Intake Cam Actuator circuit is low (new magnet in there)
P0505 - Idle Control
P0010 - Cam Position Actuator Circuit OPEN
Looking to replace the Cam Adjuster on the intake side of Bank 1 at this point. At a loss otherwise.
2014 ML63, 2018 GLC43, 1929 DB victory six sports roadster
Originally Posted by so-teal
I replaced the rear vacuum line because it was hardened and difficult to continue to securely re-attach ( yellow striped)
I completely removed everything I touched, then reassembled again checking every connection. Cleaned the throttle body too, to remove any stickiness. Cleaned the Harness connector and kept getting the oil out. Let it dry for 45 minutes before connecting back to ECU.
All of this done with Battery disconnected.
Still have rough idle.
P2088 - Intake Cam Actuator circuit is low (new magnet in there)
P0505 - Idle Control
P0010 - Cam Position Actuator Circuit OPEN
Looking to replace the Cam Adjuster on the intake side of Bank 1 at this point. At a loss otherwise.
Does your scanner read the camshaft position. They can be up to 7 degrees out before throwing a code. Your codes are for the circuit not the actual cam adjuster.
My inlet cam adjuster was out , passed the specified amount. These were the codes.
It’s actually the reluctor wheel that is pressed on the camshaft that becomes out not the adjuster itself.
I replaced the rear vacuum line because it was hardened and difficult to continue to securely re-attach ( yellow striped)
I completely removed everything I touched, then reassembled again checking every connection. Cleaned the throttle body too, to remove any stickiness. Cleaned the Harness connector and kept getting the oil out. Let it dry for 45 minutes before connecting back to ECU.
All of this done with Battery disconnected.
Still have rough idle.
P2088 - Intake Cam Actuator circuit is low (new magnet in there)
P0505 - Idle Control
P0010 - Cam Position Actuator Circuit OPEN
Looking to replace the Cam Adjuster on the intake side of Bank 1 at this point. At a loss otherwise.
There you have it well defined
These two issues are purely electrical:
-- P2088 - Intake Cam Actuator Circuit LOW: Short (new magnet in there)
-- P0010 - Cam Position Actuator Circuit OPEN/High
These coil actuators are simple two wires only.
New actuator did not help resolve issue.
One of the wire has a bad connection or the ECU has internal issue.
> Troubleshooting steps :
-- inspect the connectors of coil actuators visually
-- Repeat with live voltage (DVM or scope).
-- Inspect ECU Connector for oilyness
Ignore for now: P0505 - Idle Control.... ECU is having a hard time idling: normal with other two faults
Report test progress.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Sep 15, 2025 at 11:02 PM.
Try swapping the actuators between two camshafts on the same side. If the code remains on the same camshaft, check for wiring/connectors integrity. If it moves to the other camshaft, you have found your problem.
Recall that pulling/pushing connectors is a source of hidden problems because the play between both parts increases until a poor connection is reached, and no amount of new parts upstream or downstream will fix it.
I used a Multimeter at the connection to Cam Magnet shown in attached photo. I am Getting Bank 1 Intake as the problem side, am I correct in this being Intake Actuator? Saw a flow diagram and this appears to be the one showing intake.
I read 18V when I pressed the probes in to where they contacted the connection inside of the plug.
Since I had the other magnet in already, I fired everything up, after reconnecting the battery and clearing the codes. (I only have a cheap Ancel reader in response to the question above about reading the Degrees of the Cam rotation)
Same codes, except now a misfire code too (Random Misfire, 1,3)
Intake A Bank 1......Bank 1 side (Driver's in USA) and magnet circled being the actuator in question?
2014 ML63, 2018 GLC43, 1929 DB victory six sports roadster
Originally Posted by so-teal
I used a Multimeter at the connection to Cam Magnet shown in attached photo. I am Getting Bank 1 Intake as the problem side, am I correct in this being Intake Actuator? Saw a flow diagram and this appears to be the one showing intake.
I read 18V when I pressed the probes in to where they contacted the connection inside of the plug.
Since I had the other magnet in already, I fired everything up, after reconnecting the battery and clearing the codes. (I only have a cheap Ancel reader in response to the question above about reading the Degrees of the Cam rotation)
Same codes, except now a misfire code too (Random Misfire, 1,3)
Intake A Bank 1......Bank 1 side (Driver's in USA) and magnet circled being the actuator in question?
standing in front of the engine looking at it bank 1 is on the left hand side. You have circled bank2 intake there from what I can see from your photo.
standing in front of the engine looking at it bank 1 is on the left hand side. You have circled bank2 intake there from what I can see from your photo.
Exsctly, Bank one is on the side of the coolant reservoir, air filter housing, high pressure fuel pump.
hopefully... when measuring Bank1 actuator it will read a similar voltage like Bank2 : good ECU!
The Bk1 intake already has a new solenoid.
Don't forget to clear old faults.
Inspect CONNECTOR male/female side...
Yeah, thanks for clarifying on the sides of the engine I am looking at.
Hard to find time to get into the car lately with current work schedule.
The voltages at all of the wiring plugs are reading near 18V with Car On, Engine not running.
Cleared Faults and ran again.
Still the P2088, and P0505 going with a very noticeable rough idle. Aside from making sure the plugs are as firmly connected as possible, any other checks (multimeter wise, or any other suggestions) that this helpful bunch could develop.
ECU Would appear to be okay with the voltage going into the connectors?
Trying to exhaust my own abilities on this problem before I get it into an Indy shop because funds are extremely tight. Cannot do a $6k invoice at this point.
Yeah, thanks for clarifying on the sides of the engine I am looking at.
Hard to find time to get into the car lately with current work schedule.
The voltages at all of the wiring plugs are reading near 18V with Car On, Engine not running.
Cleared Faults and ran again.
Still the P2088, and P0505 going with a very noticeable rough idle. Aside from making sure the plugs are as firmly connected as possible, any other checks (multimeter wise, or any other suggestions) that this helpful bunch could develop.
ECU Would appear to be okay with the voltage going into the connectors?
Trying to exhaust my own abilities on this problem before I get it into an Indy shop because funds are extremely tight. Cannot do a $6k invoice at this point.
Do you think 18Volt in a 12Volt system is low? 14.9V is VMax.
Perhaps 18Volts was measured across chassis drop voltage...
Got it.
Yeah, I fought to get those Multimeter tips into the Cam Magnet Plug-connection, and it hit 18. I will try and do some research as the best way to test those better.
Yeah, I fought to get those Multimeter tips into the Cam Magnet Plug-connection, and it hit 18. I will try and do some research as the best way to test those better.
Let me help your troubleshooting:
you know if ECU has issue with VVT Solenoids ("magnets") ECU will log a fault code.
The solenoids coils have a low resistance you can measure ... like 10. Ohms.
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