M-Class (W166) Produced 2012-2015

Heater Taking Too Long Too Activate?

Old Dec 2, 2025 | 09:30 AM
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Heater Taking Too Long Too Activate?

15 ML, woke up this morning to a icy car, ~31 degrees here in Texas, and as soon as I got in I started the heated seats and heater. Took a solid 10 minutes for the heat to blow and defrost the windshield, and even longer for the heated seats to actually generate heat. Not sure why but my thermostat was stuck at 0 with the needle at the bottom for 10 minutes, could that be why the heat wasn't engaging? Also I just replaced the engine thermostat a couple months ago so thats brand new. 10 years ago when I got in the car in cold weather the heat would start right up and it would blow really hot. Do you have any suggestions how to fix this issue?
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Old Dec 2, 2025 | 10:38 AM
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A new thermostat doesn't guarantee it is a good one. What brand? Just idling trying to warm up? If you weren't driving, the engine will take forever to warm, especialky if you're already calling for heat.

The heated seats take forever...
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Old Dec 2, 2025 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by rapidoxidation
A new thermostat doesn't guarantee it is a good one. What brand? Just idling trying to warm up? If you weren't driving, the engine will take forever to warm, especialky if you're already calling for heat.

The heated seats take forever...
No idea about the brand, it was dealer installed. Heated seats usually take a minute or two max for mine. Yes I get the engine takes time to idle but the needle shouldn't be stuck at zero.
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Old Dec 2, 2025 | 11:56 AM
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Sounds like a stuck open thermostat to me. I would have the dealer replace it as it seems the one they installed was defective. What made you replace the thermostat months ago?
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Old Dec 2, 2025 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by C280 Sport
Sounds like a stuck open thermostat to me. I would have the dealer replace it as it seems the one they installed was defective. What made you replace the thermostat months ago?
Dealer was replacing the entire cooling system, so radiator and hoses and all that, and thermostat is a common failure so I thought I'd get it out of the way, plus I only had to pay for parts since everything else was already disassembled.
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Old Dec 5, 2025 | 03:48 PM
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To be noted: a cold engine can hardly warm-up and circulate coolant throughout the engine at IDLE.

Drive the cold engine to warm it up or rev-up to 2kRpm then the HEATER CORE will get supplied with 200°F coolant that can warm up cabin occupants.

Point being the efficient water pump at idle is useless at moving coolant or heat...
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Old Dec 5, 2025 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ARL_350
15 ML, woke up this morning to a icy car, ~31 degrees here in Texas, and as soon as I got in I started the heated seats and heater. Took a solid 10 minutes for the heat to blow and defrost the windshield, and even longer for the heated seats to actually generate heat. Not sure why but my thermostat was stuck at 0 with the needle at the bottom for 10 minutes, could that be why the heat wasn't engaging? Also I just replaced the engine thermostat a couple months ago so thats brand new. 10 years ago when I got in the car in cold weather the heat would start right up and it would blow really hot. Do you have any suggestions how to fix this issue?
I have the same behavior with my 2012, I thought the issue was thermostat/water pump, replaced both, and it made absolutely no difference between old and new. I think what @CaliBenzDriver stating makes sense.

Last edited by vrmb; Dec 5, 2025 at 04:21 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2025 | 05:57 PM
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poor heat circulation

Originally Posted by vrmb
I have the same behavior with my 2012, I thought the issue was thermostat/water pump, replaced both, and it made absolutely no difference between old and new. I think what @CaliBenzDriver stating makes sense.
I've been right a few times...

This engine has a hard time moving heat with its undersized pump, it's really slow.

The heater-core circuit is always on Max heat summer or winter -
It has no control valve that can fail.

If I were to warm up this car in Canadian Winter... I'd rev' it to 1500/ 2000Rpm to generate heat to warm up my windshield before driving.
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Old Dec 7, 2025 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ARL_350
No idea about the brand, it was dealer installed. Heated seats usually take a minute or two max for mine. Yes I get the engine takes time to idle but the needle shouldn't be stuck at zero.
Was this done by a Mercedes dealer or an independent shop? Just want to make sure we are on the same page.

If there was a negative change in behavior after work was done, I agree with @C280 Sport to have the dealer fix the problem.
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Old Dec 7, 2025 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
To be noted: a cold engine can hardly warm-up and circulate coolant throughout the engine at IDLE.

Drive the cold engine to warm it up or rev-up to 2kRpm then the HEATER CORE will get supplied with 200°F coolant that can warm up cabin occupants.

Point being the efficient water pump at idle is useless at moving coolant or heat...
Tried this and although its not instant it does noticeably warm up quicker.
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Old Dec 7, 2025 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by GTIBlack
Was this done by a Mercedes dealer or an independent shop? Just want to make sure we are on the same page.

If there was a negative change in behavior after work was done, I agree with @C280 Sport to have the dealer fix the problem.
Yes done by a mercedes dealership. The weird thing I noticed yesterday was that the heat would blow very strong on the passenger side but barely on the driver side. I had this same issue last summer with the AC with the driver side getting barely any cold air in the brutal texas heat and the passenger side and rear vents were getting plentiful amounts. Before taking the car to the dealer to get it checked out I tried a $10 bottle of freon re-charge from walmart and it INSTANTLY blew ice cold air from all the vents including the driver. The driver side did still have a little bit of less pressure compared to the passenger after re-charge but that could have just been placebo. Not sure what the issue is now? Do you guys have any idea?
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Old Dec 7, 2025 | 04:20 PM
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filter plugged up

Originally Posted by ARL_350
Yes done by a mercedes dealership. The weird thing I noticed yesterday was that the heat would blow very strong on the passenger side but barely on the driver side. I had this same issue last summer with the AC with the driver side getting barely any cold air in the brutal texas heat and the passenger side and rear vents were getting plentiful amounts. Before taking the car to the dealer to get it checked out I tried a $10 bottle of freon re-charge from walmart and it INSTANTLY blew ice cold air from all the vents including the driver. The driver side did still have a little bit of less pressure compared to the passenger after re-charge but that could have just been placebo. Not sure what the issue is now? Do you guys have any idea?
how old is your $10 cabin filter ??
It can seriously restricts cabin air circulation, both hot/cold - In a pinch you can simply remove it out for circulation.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Dec 7, 2025 at 04:41 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2025 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
how old is your $10 cabin filter ??
It can seriously restricts cabin air circulation, both hot/cold - In a pinch you can simply remove it out for circulation.
I replaced the engine air filter recently with a K&N one, but cabin filter I have never touched. I believe the last time I took the car for a Service B a year ago at the dealer they replaced it. Does this part code align with the cabin air filter?
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Old Dec 7, 2025 | 08:13 PM
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K&N cleanable re-oilable rock filter? Or do they make a paper filter that actually works at catching fine particles that kill engines?

Take a ride down a dusty road following someone. Then look on the "clean" side of your intake, downstream of the K&N filter. Then put a paper filter back in.
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Old Jan 16, 2026 | 10:13 PM
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So I just discovered this on my ML. On full heat the air blows really hard on the passenger side and rear ac vents, but for the driver side it's near nothing, both temperature wise and air flow. Then I turned the dial from HI to LOW and the driver side vents blowed at full pressure, and this includes both the dash vents and footwell vents, which previously both were blowing barely any air. You guys have any idea what the issue is?
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Old Jan 17, 2026 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ARL_350
So I just discovered this on my ML. On full heat the air blows really hard on the passenger side and rear ac vents, but for the driver side it's near nothing, both temperature wise and air flow. Then I turned the dial from HI to LOW and the driver side vents blowed at full pressure, and this includes both the dash vents and footwell vents, which previously both were blowing barely any air. You guys have any idea what the issue is?
The AAC Module use solderless flaps... use a SCANNER to read exactly what's going on.
Perhaps a temp sensor got disconnected during service ...
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