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Xentry compression test

 
Old 12-06-2016, 09:50 PM
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Xentry compression test

I have a Xentry Connect C5 , 09/2106.
I am trying to perform the compression test. I put on the parking brake, click on the green arrow to start the test, step on both brake and accelerator to the floor.
Says to actuate the starter until the bar elapses approx. 6 seconds.


What should I expect? I wait for this bar to show up and a timer elapses.


Will this be a software starter actuation like in the video of the STAR? or do I have to crank it with the key?


There is something to connect a 30 amp charger to the battery. Maybe because I didn't connect one, it won't let me perform the test?


I expected that at least it will try to peform the test and maybe fail me because of no charger, but I get no software starter click button (other than the test start green arrow) and no timer bar.


The coolant temperature is over 80 Celsius and the batter is at 12 volts.
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:55 PM
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You need to start the test, then attempt to start the car. It will crank but not start, as the bar goes across. After a couple seconds you can stop, or run it until the end. It will then show the rpm difference across cylinders.
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:56 PM
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Also you should connect a charger as battery voltage will drop during the test, resulting in slower cranking as time goes on. It won't really affect cylinder balance but still can change overall speed.

Why are you running a compression test?
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:57 PM
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Thanks.
So to be clear:
Click the green arrow, then key crank the starter, like I was starting the car. As I do this, the timer bar shows up and I keep cranking till the bar elapses?


I don't have symptoms requiring a compression test, but I own the xentry rig and am just checking/learning misc things andi did buy the car used and think it can't hurt to know what's going on.


So I have to get a big charger that can do 30 amps then.

Last edited by Vladds; 12-06-2016 at 10:00 PM.
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:02 PM
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Yeah you should see the result as soon as you start to crank the car.

You should be fine without the charger, Xentry says to connect one anytime you are using it on the car. Technically it warns you if the voltage is below 12.5, which is impossible with the ign on and no charger.
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:09 PM
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Hey, would you answer one more question?


As far as the test of the cam adjusters:
I get to where they conditions are met, temp over 80 Celsius, hold the rev between 2700 and 3500 and for intake cams it shows the angle in a green number, then I click "actuate" and more or less nothing happens, stays green.


Now for the exhausts:
On the left one, stays green at -15 degrees. I click actuate, I get a momentary red of 5 degrees, while the range I think is between -10 and -17 degrees, then it goes back to -15 green


On the right I have a tick. I do the same, before actuating its green at -15, then it drops to red 26 degrees! then goes back to -15 green


Then I get codes for all for cams of unexpected angle, which I think is normal for the testing, I erase them and then I have to do a tech-in, which goes successfully.


But that right cam adjuster is not ok, even if it eventually passes the test, right?
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Old 12-06-2016, 11:49 PM
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I'd have to see what it is actually doing. If it passes the test it's probably ok, the faults setting during testing are normal. We do see a lot of defective cam adjusters though, so it's possible it is not 100%.

My advice, you are more likely to do harm than good by running all the tests. I'd only search for things you already had faults for or issues with. Some of the tests don't run that well and the results can be inconclusive at best.
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:32 PM
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I finally succeeded with this compression test.


Two things:
You're not really supposed to crank in Xentry, meaning you momentarily turn the ignition key to crank, then let go and it continues to crank.
Only at this point does the duration bar show up and test goes through.
If you keep the key turned on crank, the test won't go through.


The second thing is it helped me to have the batteries connected to the mux, makes it more stable.


Now the test results are allover the place.


I have to connect... something, to support the battery voltage.
I don't have a 30 Amp charger.


Do you guys think it's a bad idea to connect a booster box to the battery? (a Jump box)

Last edited by Vladds; 01-10-2017 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:47 AM
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good info. thanks.
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:41 PM
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The booster box stabilized the results.
You should at least run the car for 5 minutes, shouldn't do this dead cold, although there is no temperature requirement.
You know you stabilized it when you get 3 consecutive results with the same configuration of bars, for instance 5 has the highest rpm.
Previously, using just the battery, even after the oil was warmed up, I got all kinds of test results.


So mine passed...
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