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W220- Loose wire in driver door. Can't use windows, move seat..
I learned a lesson with buying my w220 which is to only hold onto a car while it's still under warrantee. My latest problem is that I am not able to use any of the controls on my driver's door. Can't open windows, adjust mirrors, move seat, etc. The passenger side works fine. The rear windows also won't open from the back. I'm assuming it would make sense if there was a loose wire connection in my driver's door that is keeping me from using the features and that my rear windows feature was put on child safety at the time it was disconnected. Otherwise why else does no other window open besides the passenger side?? (not to mention the power seats too)
So my question is if I want to get into the driver's door to look at the wiring does anyone have any info on how I could do this myself or is it something that I'd absolutely have to leave with the stealership?
Check the fuse for the drivers door control module first. Fuse #13 in the fuse box at the drivers side rear of the engine compartment (under the hood). It is a 40amp fuse.
On a 220 chassis, I would say that you are more than likely looking at a faulty door control module than a wiring problem. Maybe even just a loose connector at the door control module.
You don't have to pull off the complete door panel to access the door control module.
Pull/pry off the wood trim above the inside handle starting at the front of wood trim piece. It should come off with your hands by just pulling out on it. If it needs assistance I would recommend a plastic type wedge as not to scratrch anything. Then remove the plastic piece behind the inside door handle. I believe you will find a total of 4 t20 screws, 3 behind where the wood trim was and 1 under the cover behind the handle.. After removing these screws the complete trim piece that holds the seat and mirror switches will come off with minor pulling. The door control module is the black box with all the connectors attached to the back of this big trim piece.
First check to make sure all the connectors are plugged in all the way. Then check for power at pin #1 and ground at pin #2 of either the big black connector or the big white connector (I can't remember which one it was), but pin #1 will be a brown wire and pin #2 will be a red and black wire. #1 should have less than 0.3ohms of resistance to ground, and #2 should have constant battery voltage (key on or off). If you have good power and ground I would say it is highly likely that you just have a faulty door control module.
oldschoolrice, that was a great help thanks so much. only I was able to take the wood trim off and remove the 3 t20 screws and disconnect the door panel but i'm not able to take take off the handle cover to remove the screw behind the door handle. not exactly sure what to do from here??
It's funny how we're the stealership until you need someone competent enough to fix your car. You get what you pay for. You probably have your lawn care guy take care of your plumbing too.
It is my opinion that that particular comment insults every factory trained technician you are trying to get free info from.
Last edited by bicylindrico; 06-20-2008 at 01:28 PM.
Hey. I'm relatively younger than the typical S class owner and have better uses for my extra cash than to give away let's say $800 for something I can do on my own for $200. Later in my life I have no doubt that a repair like this would be considered nothing, but as of now I have to pay respect to the money I've earned and squeeze the most out of each dollar.
Hey. I'm relatively younger than the typical S class owner and have better uses for my extra cash than to give away let's say $800 for something I can do on my own for $200. Later in my life I have no doubt that a repair like this would be considered nothing, but as of now I have to pay respect to the money I've earned and squeeze the most out of each dollar.
That's cool, but a 2000 S500 is just about the worst car on earth for you. Its electrical system and suspension are two of the most complex automotive systems designed and 2000 is their maiden year, with more than a fair share of problems.
Nothing about the electrical system is straightforward. Your not knowing what a DCM is understandable, but it also means you know nothing about the kind of diagnostic equipment needed to repair these systems. Guessing and replacing parts is very likely to cost you way more than letting a qualified expert do it right the first time. Nobody here likes to waste money -- you don't become a Mercedes owner by being foolish. You're being advised, with your best economic interests in mind, to either find a qualified Mercedes mechanic or trade the car in for something that is more amenable to DIY repair.
2013 Infiniti G37 Coupe; 2011 GLK 350 w/ Premium 1, Multimedia & Sport Appearance; I LOVE IT!
Originally Posted by bicylindrico
It's funny how we're the stealership until you need someone competent enough to fix your car. You get what you pay for. You probably have your lawn care guy take care of your plumbing too.
It is my opinion that that particular comment insults every factory trained technician you are trying to get free info from.
Check the fuse for the drivers door control module first. Fuse #13 in the fuse box at the drivers side rear of the engine compartment (under the hood). It is a 40amp fuse.
On a 220 chassis, I would say that you are more than likely looking at a faulty door control module than a wiring problem. Maybe even just a loose connector at the door control module.
You don't have to pull off the complete door panel to access the door control module.
Pull/pry off the wood trim above the inside handle starting at the front of wood trim piece. It should come off with your hands by just pulling out on it. If it needs assistance I would recommend a plastic type wedge as not to scratrch anything. Then remove the plastic piece behind the inside door handle. I believe you will find a total of 4 t20 screws, 3 behind where the wood trim was and 1 under the cover behind the handle.. After removing these screws the complete trim piece that holds the seat and mirror switches will come off with minor pulling. The door control module is the black box with all the connectors attached to the back of this big trim piece.
First check to make sure all the connectors are plugged in all the way. Then check for power at pin #1 and ground at pin #2 of either the big black connector or the big white connector (I can't remember which one it was), but pin #1 will be a brown wire and pin #2 will be a red and black wire. #1 should have less than 0.3ohms of resistance to ground, and #2 should have constant battery voltage (key on or off). If you have good power and ground I would say it is highly likely that you just have a faulty door control module.
Remember to check the fuse first.
Hope this helps.
Despite how old this post is, I found it to be brilliant. I pulled off the trim, the little panel behind the handle, pulled the T20 screws and tested the brown and red & black wire--0 ohms, and 12 v. So I found a used DCM on eBay for $63. and popped it in and sure enough, the windows, mirrors, seat heater/cooler, and seat adjusters all work. But the power door locks and trunk release still don't work, but I don't think they are controlled by the DCM.
How about we take 5mn to fix your own matched DCM, ok? We'll be 100% sure it's initialized for your car.
Carefully pop the cover of your failed DCM, extract the board and post pics of both sides of the circuit board.
OK. I think I can do that. I have popped the module apart. The board looked like there MAY be water damage. The two lines of numbers on the old and new DCM modules are identical. If there's a way to "initialize" the new DCM for my car, it would be great to know that.
you're right about the water damage! The component side shows white oxide in quite a few places.
Your pics show these boards are top-grade with a protective coating and nicely soldered connectors... this increase you chances to save your own module with a good cleaning.
Coding a replacement board involves the use of a XENTRY system.
you're right about the water damage! The component side shows white oxide in quite a few places.
Your pics show these boards are top-grade with a protective coating and nicely soldered connectors... this increase you chances to save your own module with a good cleaning.
Coding a replacement board involves the use of a XENTRY system.
Is that the software that runs on MB Star diagnostic computer?
What would I clean it with besides soaking it in white vinegar?
Forget using acidic vinegar or any deep soaking.
Use alcohol locally with a tooth brush to gently help remove oxide deposits.
I must admit to being confused. Deposits that cause problems do either of 2 things:
1) they prevent connection, acting as an insulator.
2) They as a conductor, creating shorts.
If it's the first, then since it's got quality soldering and a strong epoxy barrier (assuming it's epoxy) the only connections that could be blocked would be the pins, and they appear clean.
If it's the second then a short has been created and unless I'm very, very, VERY lucky, a component has been damaged.
I "get" why programming might affect the keyless entry and trunk release functions, but not why the integral hard-wired switches, door lock on the dashboard, trunk release on the driver's door, require programming at all.
With all the problems of door locks, slow leak in the air suspension, and a parasitic battery leak all of which can ONLY be addressed by a dealer, who sees me every time as a sheep to be sheared, this 19 year old car that's MAYBE worth $4000 is getting to be less and less worth the time, effort and trouble. I am also getting really sick of high-end cars that can only (if at all) be fixed by massive injections of money, sometimes costing 2x what the vehicle is worth, which is less than 4% of what it originally cost!
Despite all that, I REALLY appreciate all the advice and help of people here. You are all very kind and generous. This is our 8th Mercedes and the only one we still have. It may well be the last, too.
Here is what I would concentrate on... ONLY Left side is protected...
evidence of oxidation bridges
Do the best you can then hope for the best!
Toothbrush and wooden toothpicks should help you here.
Frankly it is very little dirt to deal with... great chances for a free fix.
German are the proven No1 system experts in our Galaxy. They've engineer transportations to gently fail in many controlled ways. Doing so provides numerous service opportunities until you decide to skip.
Here is what I would concentrate on... ONLY Left side is protected...
evidence of oxidation bridges
Do the best you can then hope for the best!
Toothbrush and wooden toothpicks should help you here.
Frankly it is very little dirt to deal with... great chances for a free fix.
German are the proven No1 system experts in our Galaxy. They've engineer transportations to gently fail in many controlled ways. Doing so provides numerous service opportunities until you decide to skip.
You really think it will work? Before I swapped in the other DCM, nothing worked on the driver's side: No window, seat adjustment, seat heater/cooler, nor mirror control. All that came back, only the door locks and trunk release don't.
You really think it will work? Before I swapped in the other DCM, nothing worked on the driver's side: No window, seat adjustment, seat heater/cooler, nor mirror control. All that came back, only the door locks and trunk release don't.
Now that you know what's wrong, there are many ways to go about fixing the problem:
A- Programing a new module will be faster with greatest quality. That's what dealers do for guaranteed results.
B- Cleaning oxidation bridges.
Use alcohol and plenty of gentle scrubbing.
C- Best of both worlds:
Some people pick the memory chip off the defective module to reinsert on the replacement module.
Consider this:
Do you think the water intrusion issues are fixed or will the same keep happening again?
I think you may want to get ready this time around.
> Change window seal...
> Tape the module covers...
> Use "PCB Conformal coating" to fully cover 100% of the circuit you'll be installing.
> Lastly, fix your other doors before damages shows up like in OP/#1.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 01-29-2022 at 03:09 AM.
Now that you know what's wrong, there are many ways to go about fixing the problem:
A- Programing a new module will be faster with greatest quality. That's what dealers do for guaranteed results.
B- Cleaning oxidation bridges.
Use alcohol and plenty of gentle scrubbing.
C- Best of both worlds:
Some people pick the memory chip off the defective module to reinsert on the replacement module.
Consider this:
Do you think the water intrusion issues are fixed or will the same keep happening again?
I think you may want to get ready this time around.
> Change window seal...
> Tape the module covers...
> Use "PCB Conformal coating" to fully cover 100% of the circuit you'll be installing.
> Lastly, fix your other doors before damages shows up like in OP/#1.
I appreciate all your good advice but the solution was a lot simpler (YES!!! I GOT THE DOOR LOCKS AND TRUNK RELEASE WORKING!)
I went through all 4 fuse blocks, replacing a few missing fuses (No idea how that happened) and it all started working again. Even works remotely with the fob.
A minor concern cropped up: The retractable trunk closing handle didn't want to retract but it finally did. Is it possible the internal computer saw a new DCM and then reprogrammed it--or was it simply a fuse?
Now I'm back to my original issue of the parasitic battery drain. It was suggested that I call a dealer and ask them to spend up to 2 hours seeking the drain, no more. So far, all I've gotten is "Let us call you back to set up a service appointment!"
All I need is to have them call me continuously and spam me with email.
06-02-2008, 12:43 PM
