Transmission Fluid Change
Does anyone have a Step - Step instruction on changing
the Transmission Fluid and the Diff Gear Oil too?
With Pictures would help.
Thanks in advance.
Steve
nguyensteve@yahoo.com
So, if someone have the instruction and Pic. that would be great.
Thanks in advance.
Steve Nguyen
nguyensteve@yahoo.com
Trending Topics
But MB North America, said it would void warranty and the fluid is not approved by them. So here I am coming up on 52,000 miles on a 1999 E430, and original; ATF fluid.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
It is not in the interest of MB to have long lived components on its cars. They can recommend what they want, I do it my way.
Thanks Dave, this was not a knock on you. We spoke about this about a year and a half ago, when the car had only 32000 miles on it. I ended buying an extended warranty anyway for 7/150000. So at least I still feel somewhat protected. I ordered the measuring tool last month just in case I do change it out. I was acually thinking of just flushing the system with an inline transfer rather than opening the bottom and replacing the filter as well. What are your thoughts on that? BTW, I still owe you a beer if you make it out here to Orlando.
1. What type of fluid and your put in the "lifetime" fluid transmission?
2. What is the part number for the dipstick?
Thanks,
Rob Lee
'99 E320
1) The dipstick tool is a bit odd in that it is too long so you cannot shove it in up to a "stop". I just pushed it down gently until it hit the bottom of the pan. I took a reading cold (right after starting the car) and then drove the car about 15 miles. I then checked the fluid level again. I made note of the levels. Then I collected the fluid from the pan, which has a drain plug, and the converter. I measured the fluid that I drained. I used the levels and the quantity drained to judge how much to put back in. On my 1999 E430 it was right at 8.5 US quarts.
2) This was the easiest, cleanest trans fluid change I've ever done. Somehow the converter vents internally eliminating the bloop, bloop action one normally experiences. I didn't spill a drop.
3) At 37,000 miles the pan was clean. There was virually no "sludge" from the friction materials in my pan as some have reported.
4) The filter simply pulls off. There are no screws.
5) I would only use the MB fluid. I have not been able to find anything to indicate that any other fluid meets the specs. Judging by what I found, or rather, didn't find, the MB fluid seems to work fine.
6)When refilling put in about 4 quarts, start the engine to get the fluid circulating and fill the converter and cooler and then add the rest. Drive the car over the same route as before and check the level with the dipstick. It should be real close to the original hot level. Recheck it cold after an overnight cool down. Once again, it should be real close to the original cold level.
7) MB now uses little aluminum castings as clamps to hold the pan in place. The castings take the torque of the bolts. This system is superior to the previous method where the "stops" were built into the pan and ham fisted types could over-torque the bolts and distort the pan.
8) The dipstick cap is held by a plastic "seal" clip. It is removed by carefully pulling it out of the side of the cap. New clips are available at the dealer for a dollar or so. Apply the new seal only after you are satisfied that the level is correct.
Hope this helps. If I am wrong on any of the procedure perhaps MBTech208 can correct my method.
A few notes:
1) The dipstick tool is a bit odd in that it is too long so you cannot shove it in up to a "stop". I just pushed it down gently until it hit the bottom of the pan. I took a reading cold (right after starting the car) and then drove the car about 15 miles. I then checked the fluid level again. I made note of the levels. Then I collected the fluid from the pan, which has a drain plug, and the converter. I measured the fluid that I drained. I used the levels and the quantity drained to judge how much to put back in. On my 1999 E430 it was right at 8.5 US quarts.
2) This was the easiest, cleanest trans fluid change I've ever done. Somehow the converter vents internally eliminating the bloop, bloop action one normally experiences. I didn't spill a drop.
3) At 37,000 miles the pan was clean. There was virually no "sludge" from the friction materials in my pan as some have reported.
4) The filter simply pulls off. There are no screws.
5) I would only use the MB fluid. I have not been able to find anything to indicate that any other fluid meets the specs. Judging by what I found, or rather, didn't find, the MB fluid seems to work fine.
6)When refilling put in about 4 quarts, start the engine to get the fluid circulating and fill the converter and cooler and then add the rest. Drive the car over the same route as before and check the level with the dipstick. It should be real close to the original hot level. Recheck it cold after an overnight cool down. Once again, it should be real close to the original cold level.
7) MB now uses little aluminum castings as clamps to hold the pan in place. The castings take the torque of the bolts. This system is superior to the previous method where the "stops" were built into the pan and ham fisted types could over-torque the bolts and distort the pan.
8) The dipstick cap is held by a plastic "seal" clip. It is removed by carefully pulling it out of the side of the cap. New clips are available at the dealer for a dollar or so. Apply the new seal only after you are satisfied that the level is correct.
Hope this helps. If I am wrong on any of the procedure perhaps MBTech208 can correct my method.
Also a sometime erratic condition in first gear downshift cleared up.





