glandry

My wife was driving to the store and her crossfire just died on the street. I was able to get it started and drive it home. After a day or two, I was able to continuously start the car. Then, other days it won't start or it will start and then it dies. Sure would appreciate any help.

MB-Dude

Although the Crossfire is a cousin of the SL, there may be enough differences that you could end up on a wild-goose chase based on something we suggest. That said... When it dies and won't start, what are some of the other symtoms, noises (?), going fast/slow, weather, karma, etc.? Driving and stopping can be a number of things, fuel filter, ignition circuit, engine sensor(s), etc. Can you see if the OBDII has any fault codes? Need a little more to work on.
Cheers,
Jeff

glandry

Yeah, I know what you mean with regards to being anything. We don't have any check engine light so not sure if it will register any codes. Guess I could check though. No other noises other then the engine will crank over like it has no fire. Another thing to mention is this car only has 13000 miles on it. Which means it pretty much sits in the driveway. I am wondering if I may have water/condensation in the fuel. Some times it will start and sometimes it won't. I was trying to get it to run and burn up the gas. But once you get it running, it may run for 10 minutes or possibly 30 minutes. Just don't know. I would think if the car was sitting still, that it wouldn't be a faulty sensor, i.e. crankshaft position sensor. My wife is scared to drive it, afraid it will just die on the road.
By the way, I sure appreciate your quick reply back trying to help me with this problem. I know if I take it to the dealer, they will will probaby charge me 600 to 700 bucks depending on what it is. Reading a lot of the other blogs, they mentioned it may be a fuel pump relay in the fuse panel.

glandry

I just went out and tried to start it. It started up and then quickly died. It started up like this 3 times. On the fourth try it just cranked with no fire. By the way, I had no gas pedal response when it started up. Just went up to around 1000 RPMs and died. I am thinking it may be a fuel issue, i.e. fuel filter etc. I am an old backyard mechanic but have never worked on one of these. Hell, I don't even know how to pull the big cover on the top of the engine. I am not even sure if there is a visible fuel filter that I can remove and check to see if it is restricting fuel flow. That's about all I can tell you at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

MB-Dude

If you’re an old school shade tree mechanic, then let's start with some old school checks; if you think its fuel. Try starting it once again but let it crank about 15 or 20 seconds. Pull one of the spark plugs and see if it's wet... sopping wet. If it's bone dry, then something is probably restricting fuel flow. If it's sopping wet, then either it's getting too much fuel or there's a problem with the ignition.

As for the engine cover, you'll have to figure that one out on your own - not a clue.

Alternatively, you can turn on the ignition so the fuel pump runs. Then slowly loosen a hose clamp or fitting somewhere on the injector line to see if you get fuel coming out. You're looking for pressure here, so be careful. If you sense pressure and the plugs are dry, something is keeping the injectors from opening (doubtful). If the pressure is low or non-existent, then something is restricting the fuel flow; either fuel pump (pump, relay or fuse), fuel pressure regulator, or fuel filter. In addition, you should be able to hear the fuel pump running; it probably makes a high-pitch whining noise.

If you think there is water in the fuel tank or the fuel is contaminated, you may have to drain the fuel tank. That can get messy and dangerous for a home-based mechanic; especially if there is quite a bit in there.

Just some ideas to try. You may also want to try...
http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/
...as a better source of help and support more geared to the Crossfire.

Cheers,
Jeff

ZAHANMA

Definitely this. As a crossfire guy myself, the first thing that pops in my head is that your Crankshaft Position Sensor is going or has gone bad. If you are getting intermittent starts, it is probably on its way out. Fairly easy fix and $80 part.

Search through crossfireforum.org and you will most likely find someone else who is having the same issue.

glandry

Jeff,
I really appreciate your helpful information. I will look at the fuel system. I guess I have to get my hands greasy once again. Ha Ha.

MB-Dude

Excellent point. I always forget about the CPS. LOL. More than likely that is the culprit.
Cheers,
Jeff

vettdvr

Lets pull codes. Doesn't matter brand of car. OBDII is what is needed. I agree CPS is a Hall Effect Sensor that fails frequently in the mode you are seeing. Sometimes it will start and drive then not. Or it might just quit, depending on how it failed. 95% chance the CPS is the problem but codes are needed for anyone to help. I know many places will pull codes for free. But being stuck with no start is why I bought my own code reader. You can pick up one at AZ for under 100. The orange one. It will work on your car and tell you the codes. Then with codes you can search your car and codes to find the problem. Good luck.

civicious

If there aren't any codes stored relating to a crank position sensor, take a look at your K40 relay module. It's in the passenger-side underhood 'fuse block' area.

Here's a YouTube video that outlines the procedure for a R170, which has the K40 unit on the left (driver) side of the vehicle, but the module looks (and is) the same, and the procedure is the same.



It might be another issue (for example, if it starts fine when it's cold, but dies after running a bit and won't start until it sits for a while and cools down, you need to replace the crankshaft position sensor on the top of the bell housing)...BUT it takes only a few minutes to pull the K40 module and check the circuit board, thus eliminating the possibility of the K40 module causing your starting issue - and it's a lot easier than replacing the crank sensor only to find that you've still got the same problem.