M113 - Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor as per code, still long crank/no start
01-30-2018, 01:15 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
M113 - Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor as per code, still long crank/no start
Hi All,
Figured that this should be posted to the general tech talk as this a common issue, not specific to my w209 (but maybe in my specific case it is!). Looking for any input or experience you may have with intermittent starting or long cranking - any help I can get is help appreciated.
When I got my car I ran the codes and saw that it was throwing P0335 and P0341 codes. After getting on a diagnostics platform I was able to find that there wasn’t much else wrong - I was able to see that I had replaced the CPS and the car had stored the code but the car is still giving me a hard time if it’s warm. The car does seem to start faster than it did before.
Also worth nothing, is that while cranking you can hear some sort of ignition through the faint “popping” through the exhaust- it didn’t do that before - like it’s on the verge of starting but the computer is saying no.
It’s a 2004 CLK55 - thoughts? I saw a thread (I’ll link my own preliminary research in the comments below!) where they thought it was X36 being tripped by corrosion of the electrical system.
Thanks in advance, y’all.
Figured that this should be posted to the general tech talk as this a common issue, not specific to my w209 (but maybe in my specific case it is!). Looking for any input or experience you may have with intermittent starting or long cranking - any help I can get is help appreciated.
When I got my car I ran the codes and saw that it was throwing P0335 and P0341 codes. After getting on a diagnostics platform I was able to find that there wasn’t much else wrong - I was able to see that I had replaced the CPS and the car had stored the code but the car is still giving me a hard time if it’s warm. The car does seem to start faster than it did before.
Also worth nothing, is that while cranking you can hear some sort of ignition through the faint “popping” through the exhaust- it didn’t do that before - like it’s on the verge of starting but the computer is saying no.
It’s a 2004 CLK55 - thoughts? I saw a thread (I’ll link my own preliminary research in the comments below!) where they thought it was X36 being tripped by corrosion of the electrical system.
Thanks in advance, y’all.
01-30-2018, 01:17 PM
#2
Member
Thread Starter
Here is the thread on BW about the X36/6 connector and similar symptoms:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c209...2405385?page=3
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c209...2405385?page=3
02-02-2018, 08:33 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Here is the thread on BW about the X36/6 connector and similar symptoms:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c209...2405385?page=3
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c209...2405385?page=3
This bump is for all the weekend warriors?
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biker349 (02-03-2018)
02-06-2018, 02:46 AM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
02-10-2018, 02:03 PM
#6
Hello all. I need you help on a similar issue.
I have a similar intermittent problem... cranks but no fire... not even a single pop. Interrupt on ignition?, Fuel? But when it does run... fires and runs like a bat out of hell... pulls at a 100% right up to 6k... shifts and keeps going.. has to be electrical if fuel issue...... noticed in the E55 wiring diagram a fuel tank pressure sensor... what would it do? Connector issue, Where? If crank position sensor... sensor must work so maybe a connecter? Been doing this every now and then all winter. I'll go out in a few days and it will fire...
And I'm all done paying megabucks to the shops...
2002 E55 AMG 5.5L auto 210,000 miles...drive line still healthy... but cosmetically its tired...
1) cant read codes... what reader works on them ... need to buy one... what one works? Auto parts store couldn't tell me and evidently takes a special connector to hook in their unit that they didn't have.
2) if crank position sensor... connector? Where is it? no un-burnt fuel out the exhaust... nothing...
3) if fuel? what would interrupt it? Also seems like something electrical... Relays either work or don't... be running just fine... park it... and come out later and it just cranks... not a pop.
4) if ignition... what would make it intermittent...all or nothing.
I'm at wits end...dinking with this all winter (its my winter beater)... yea I know... but it was a $3800 car with a salvage title... 30000 miles ago... but still goes 6000 miles on a quart. Driveline is fine. But my other vehicles are show ready and pristine...will not run em in salt... 01 Dodge 3500...and 08 Dodge Challenger 6.1 Hemi (the AMG will out perform it when it runs)... but I have to get to work!,
Thanks you so much for any leads on what to look for!!!!
Dave
I have a similar intermittent problem... cranks but no fire... not even a single pop. Interrupt on ignition?, Fuel? But when it does run... fires and runs like a bat out of hell... pulls at a 100% right up to 6k... shifts and keeps going.. has to be electrical if fuel issue...... noticed in the E55 wiring diagram a fuel tank pressure sensor... what would it do? Connector issue, Where? If crank position sensor... sensor must work so maybe a connecter? Been doing this every now and then all winter. I'll go out in a few days and it will fire...
And I'm all done paying megabucks to the shops...
2002 E55 AMG 5.5L auto 210,000 miles...drive line still healthy... but cosmetically its tired...
1) cant read codes... what reader works on them ... need to buy one... what one works? Auto parts store couldn't tell me and evidently takes a special connector to hook in their unit that they didn't have.
2) if crank position sensor... connector? Where is it? no un-burnt fuel out the exhaust... nothing...
3) if fuel? what would interrupt it? Also seems like something electrical... Relays either work or don't... be running just fine... park it... and come out later and it just cranks... not a pop.
4) if ignition... what would make it intermittent...all or nothing.
I'm at wits end...dinking with this all winter (its my winter beater)... yea I know... but it was a $3800 car with a salvage title... 30000 miles ago... but still goes 6000 miles on a quart. Driveline is fine. But my other vehicles are show ready and pristine...will not run em in salt... 01 Dodge 3500...and 08 Dodge Challenger 6.1 Hemi (the AMG will out perform it when it runs)... but I have to get to work!,
Thanks you so much for any leads on what to look for!!!!
Dave
02-10-2018, 06:22 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jan 2014
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Stickies with lots of good info. Remember that you have the M113 engine.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/
Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Tape it to the windshield if necessary. If car fails to start, check for pressure. If none, you have your clue.
You can change the Crank Position Sensor (and even the Cam Position Sensor) but use quality parts such as Bosch; the cheap auto part store CPS' have a greater failure rate. You'll enjoy changing it (not) because of the location but remember you can raise your hood straight up using the latches on each hood hinge.
Reading codes requires a Star diagnostic system to read all modules using the 38-pin connector under the hood. An OBD2 code reader that reads MB codes (not all do so!) will connect under the dash but only connects to the ECU (you can see that in your schematics). If you don't have schematics, PM me your email and I'll send you a copy.
EDIT: I forgot to mention you should also go to Pelican Parts tech section. Great stuff there. Be sure to buy from them if you use the info.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Index-W210.htm
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/
Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Tape it to the windshield if necessary. If car fails to start, check for pressure. If none, you have your clue.
You can change the Crank Position Sensor (and even the Cam Position Sensor) but use quality parts such as Bosch; the cheap auto part store CPS' have a greater failure rate. You'll enjoy changing it (not) because of the location but remember you can raise your hood straight up using the latches on each hood hinge.
Reading codes requires a Star diagnostic system to read all modules using the 38-pin connector under the hood. An OBD2 code reader that reads MB codes (not all do so!) will connect under the dash but only connects to the ECU (you can see that in your schematics). If you don't have schematics, PM me your email and I'll send you a copy.
EDIT: I forgot to mention you should also go to Pelican Parts tech section. Great stuff there. Be sure to buy from them if you use the info.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Index-W210.htm
Last edited by bbirdwell; 02-10-2018 at 06:28 PM.
