Have you checked the holding pressure?

Hello all. I need you help on a similar issue.

I have a similar intermittent problem... cranks but no fire... not even a single pop. Interrupt on ignition?, Fuel? But when it does run... fires and runs like a bat out of hell... pulls at a 100% right up to 6k... shifts and keeps going.. has to be electrical if fuel issue...... noticed in the E55 wiring diagram a fuel tank pressure sensor... what would it do? Connector issue, Where? If crank position sensor... sensor must work so maybe a connecter? Been doing this every now and then all winter. I'll go out in a few days and it will fire...

And I'm all done paying megabucks to the shops...
2002 E55 AMG 5.5L auto 210,000 miles...drive line still healthy... but cosmetically its tired...

1) cant read codes... what reader works on them ... need to buy one... what one works? Auto parts store couldn't tell me and evidently takes a special connector to hook in their unit that they didn't have.

2) if crank position sensor... connector? Where is it? no un-burnt fuel out the exhaust... nothing...

3) if fuel? what would interrupt it? Also seems like something electrical... Relays either work or don't... be running just fine... park it... and come out later and it just cranks... not a pop.

4) if ignition... what would make it intermittent...all or nothing.

I'm at wits end...dinking with this all winter (its my winter beater)... yea I know... but it was a $3800 car with a salvage title... 30000 miles ago... but still goes 6000 miles on a quart. Driveline is fine. But my other vehicles are show ready and pristine...will not run em in salt... 01 Dodge 3500...and 08 Dodge Challenger 6.1 Hemi (the AMG will out perform it when it runs)... but I have to get to work!,

Thanks you so much for any leads on what to look for!!!!
Dave

Stickies with lots of good info. Remember that you have the M113 engine.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/

Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Tape it to the windshield if necessary. If car fails to start, check for pressure. If none, you have your clue.

You can change the Crank Position Sensor (and even the Cam Position Sensor) but use quality parts such as Bosch; the cheap auto part store CPS' have a greater failure rate. You'll enjoy changing it (not) because of the location but remember you can raise your hood straight up using the latches on each hood hinge.

Reading codes requires a Star diagnostic system to read all modules using the 38-pin connector under the hood. An OBD2 code reader that reads MB codes (not all do so!) will connect under the dash but only connects to the ECU (you can see that in your schematics). If you don't have schematics, PM me your email and I'll send you a copy.

EDIT: I forgot to mention you should also go to Pelican Parts tech section. Great stuff there. Be sure to buy from them if you use the info.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Index-W210.htm

So I just replaced my camshaft sensor with the new bremi sensor from FCP euro I didn’t have any sensor related codes. My S 55 has 200,000 miles on it and decided to replace the sensor. The car used to start on a dime first turn of the key now I have a long cranking issue since replacing the sensor no codes are being thrown. Now to start the car. I have to turn the key twice. The first turn of the key gives me a long cranking cycle. If I then turn the key to the off position then turn it on again it’ll fire right up.
Any input or advice would be greatly appreciated.

This LONG-CRANK BEHAVIOR overlap from cam sensor to low fuel pressure.
Use your scanner to look at live data of cam position error-correction - This will lead you to a particular bank to focus on.

when I look at the live data for the camshaft hall sensor it says “ good “
now when I’m idling and I just tapped the gas when I let off the gas sometimes it’ll drop down low on the RPM and give a little fumble feeling and I got a single fault count on so the five and six cylinders I couldn’t get it to happen again and it doesn’t happen if the motor is just running or I step on the gas and again I’m getting no codes

If cam sensor reports fine

Next is... :

1. look at fuel pressure
2. fuel trims: 1+ 2

at idle trims are reporting -13 & -20

Great... your engine mixtures are too rich, the ECU is leaning out your injectors.

Your two banks contributions are out of balance.

At least you unlikely to have low fuel pressure

You may have an ignition issue... on Bk2?

Imbalance is worth investigating after normalizing trim.

I had a code for that O2 sensor and I replaced it with a new one this started happening is it possible that sensor is bad even though no codes are being thrown ? I also resealed my valve cover gaskets ,replaced coil packs and spark plugs and had to silicone the evap vacuum line grommet into the back of super charger it had fallen out during the valve cover service . The maintenance was heavily neglected prior to me owning it . Also refreshed the injectors and fuel pressure regulator

Seasoned O2 are notarious for sleeping on the job given enough burnt oil and rich mixtures went through the engine.

They grow silently lazy by carbon layers: no code

Replace both sides upstream O2 at once for a chance to keep your V banks balanced.
How about move "new/used" to 9ther babk and replace new again to this bank - This effectively swaps O2 to see how rich/lean is affected.

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Fuel "regulator"... actually dampener not pressure control.
Have you tested the live idle fuel pressure?
Is it nearly stable?
What the History on that pump & regulator... genuine parts?

well in essence, that’s what I did. I put a brand new O2 sensor on the passenger side and took the newer O2 sensor that I installed on the driver side out and put the old one in and that made the car drive a hell of a lot better, so that’s definitely helping. I think the new sensor I got was either a knock off or defective in someway. I don’t have any rattling sound out of my catalytic converters, but I do wonder if that cat is on the way out and that’s what caused the original O2 sensor to go on that side . After installing my catch can I’ve noticed I’ve had to empty it out a few times already the first time is practically full to the brim 2 months after installing it . I had tossed it up to a mix of oil and condensation from the extremely cold temps But I do wonder if that’s normal or a sign of a greater issue 🤔 as for Fuel trims I’m using a credar launch X431 and while I don’t see a specific option titled fuel trims I did reset the mixture adaptations I assume those are the fuel trims correct me if I’m wrong

It sounds like fresh genuine upstream O2 was a giant step forward.

The "LAUNCH cReader 431" FuelTrims options are displayed from the OBD Menu... poke around the top level menus.

You want to read fuel trims to know how well the engine is running. This is what commands performance responsive or slow poke.

Idle LTFT Bk1 + 2... how far rich or lean ?

yes, I found the trim menus and I also hear my cat on the driver side starting to rattle now I’m looking for Bolt on replacements and I did find a catalytic converter for $400 but for some reason it’s only listed to fit models 2001 to 2002 which is strange because other websites have the same exact set up fitting years 2000 to 2006 is this an error on the manufacturers part and I should be able to use that catalytic converter? ROS class catalytic converters the same.🤔

If the cat material has melted into pieces it may prevent correct flow through

What do your LTFT read ?

B1-5.469
B2-10.156
I can hear , the driver side, cat rattling at idle, and while I’m driving, I’m having a hard time finding the same catalytic converters on my car so I can replace them none of the aftermarket options that are supposed to be direct bolt on replacements even look like the set up on my car on top of that I can’t find any shops that are willing to weld in universal cats. This is my daily driver. I need to get back-and-forth to work with. It’s very frustrating.

Congrats, these are fairly good trims many ppl would be happy with:
Here Bk1: -5 is better than your Bk2: -10 that's a little too rich.

yes I agree I’m trying to find a shop to weld in some magma flow cats in New Jersey it’s been a difficult process more difficult then I ever imagined for something so straight forward

so I noticed some popping sounds coming from the coil packs on the driver side bank of cylinders. The wiring is good there. The coil packs are new spark plugs are new. Would that be happening because of the catalytic converter? I’m looking at spending north of $1500 to replace these cats and I’m just wondering if there’s something else I need to focus on as well just to be clear at idle there is a muffled popping sound that sounds like misfiring even though I’m not getting any misfire codes, but I have seen the misfires on the live data

There you go... yes 100% exactly!
Definitely focus on fixing that for now rather than any downstream cats.

The sound is as if dealing with a loose sparkplug backing out or a broken sparkplug ceramic core.

The best part is you have nearly identified a cylinder issue that needs fixing.

You can try narrowing this down using Misfire data count or by unplugging coil control-side shortly to find your low-contributing cylinder.

Then focus on that one particular cyl. to prevent pulling out all plugs for no reason. Everything being fragile is better left undisturbed.

so I took the car to the shop and they refused to weld in the universal cats telling me it will cause an efficiency code and won’t pass inspection so they won’t do the work as I pulled up to the shop. I got a code P2099 bank 2 is Rich post cat as I was driving home I noticed at certain points Fuel trims on bank one and bank two were spiking up to 15%. now I know I hear rattling from my bank 2 catalytic converter, but now I’m wondering if this is really a matter of replacing the cat or if there is another issue and also how can I replace with universal cats and avoid failing an emissions test for an efficiency code after the fact?