Replacing Fuel Level Sending Unit: 2002 C240
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Ford Pinto
Replacing Fuel Level Sending Unit: 2002 C240
I guess I will start one big thread on my install. I have recieved both the left and right sending unit's that I need. I am still waiting on the special tool to arrive to remove the lock rings. I plan on doing this install on October 1 (next Friday night) if the tool comes in.
I will post some pictures later I would like everyone to look at. I have a few questions about the isntall now that I have the parts in my hand. One good thing about having the parts in hand so early, I can screw around with them and see how everything fits so I will know how to dissasemble the parts in the tank.
My main questions:
Do these parts hang from the top of the tank? It appears that way.
Is the fuel pump in one of these units or is it seperate?
Saturnstyl: You commented earlier, "You will notice they are spring loaded to hold the senders to the bottom of the tank. Be careful upon reinstallation, the sender can flip sideways and cause problems. "
I clearly see the springs on the right unit (passenger side). When you say they are spring loaded to the holde the sneders to the bottom of the tank, are you talking about the float arm? I am curious what that big long spring on the right unit does. The left unit has a spring but it looks different than the right unit.
I will have pictures up later tonight so please feel free to wait and see the pictures before you post.
Regards,
Eric Barger
I will post some pictures later I would like everyone to look at. I have a few questions about the isntall now that I have the parts in my hand. One good thing about having the parts in hand so early, I can screw around with them and see how everything fits so I will know how to dissasemble the parts in the tank.
My main questions:
Do these parts hang from the top of the tank? It appears that way.
Is the fuel pump in one of these units or is it seperate?
Saturnstyl: You commented earlier, "You will notice they are spring loaded to hold the senders to the bottom of the tank. Be careful upon reinstallation, the sender can flip sideways and cause problems. "
I clearly see the springs on the right unit (passenger side). When you say they are spring loaded to the holde the sneders to the bottom of the tank, are you talking about the float arm? I am curious what that big long spring on the right unit does. The left unit has a spring but it looks different than the right unit.
I will have pictures up later tonight so please feel free to wait and see the pictures before you post.
Regards,
Eric Barger
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Ford Pinto
Here is the picture that shows both units fresh out of the box tied together.
Hopefully, this will help everyone see what exactly is in there tank and help illustrate idea's.
It is ~1 meg in size.
http://www.installuniversity.com/mb/...er%20house.jpg
Thanks,
Eric
Hopefully, this will help everyone see what exactly is in there tank and help illustrate idea's.
It is ~1 meg in size.
http://www.installuniversity.com/mb/...er%20house.jpg
Thanks,
Eric
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The whole sending unit, when it is outside of the tank, is actually taller than the tank. The spring loads the units and pushes them down against the bottom of the tank. When you install the top part, you compress the spring and force the bottom part against the tank. Notice how the top and bottom mesh, to prevent rotation. Just pay close attention to how they come apart and put them back in the same way. Note exactly how the units are positioned in the tank, and face the new ones the same way.
The springs have nothing to do with the float arm, that should move freely at all times. The springs are there simply to hold the sending units in position.
The springs have nothing to do with the float arm, that should move freely at all times. The springs are there simply to hold the sending units in position.
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Ford Pinto
It is making sense now.
When you said that it may try to turn sideways and may not seat properly, you meant the entire assembly because the spring may cause the unit to flip-flop when closing the lid.
Also, I never really thought about it, but I guess the tank would be fairly small.
Sounds like a fairly straight foward install.
Thanks again,
Eric
When you said that it may try to turn sideways and may not seat properly, you meant the entire assembly because the spring may cause the unit to flip-flop when closing the lid.
Also, I never really thought about it, but I guess the tank would be fairly small.
Sounds like a fairly straight foward install.
Thanks again,
Eric
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Ford Pinto
Still waiting on the tool to get in...
Is the fuel pump inside the driver's side fuel level sensor? So when I unplug both cuoplings on the drivers side fuel level sensor compartment, that will unplug the fuel pump?
Thanks,
Eric Barger
www.installuniversity.com
Is the fuel pump inside the driver's side fuel level sensor? So when I unplug both cuoplings on the drivers side fuel level sensor compartment, that will unplug the fuel pump?
Thanks,
Eric Barger
www.installuniversity.com
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Ford Pinto
So I am installing a brand new fuel pump with this install as well? That's great!
Another question, which connnector do I need to unplug to cut the power to the pump? Or just do both of them?
Another question, which connnector do I need to unplug to cut the power to the pump? Or just do both of them?
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The one at the top of the picture is for the fuel pump and sending units. The one at the bottom is for the tank pressure sensor. You can identify the fuel pump wiring by its heavier guage. Remember the fuel pump is actually in the OTHER sending unit. The wiring runs from this one over to the other side of the tank.
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on the subject of fuel level sensors. can i access the unit in the same way on a 98 c280? Pulled 2 codes today off this vehicle po460 and 450. Gas gauge reads empty and on the scan tool it shows fuel statis is on reserve. I know the vehicle is full of fuel so my guess is the fuel level sensor. Any input is greatly appreciated
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Ford Pinto
I have finished the install. It took 1.5 hours from start to finish. This included going to the gas station and filling up to check for leaks.
I would like to thank everyone for their help but especially Saturnstyl for his major contributions to the effort.
The install was straight foward and no problem to tackle what-so-ever.
My friend did break the retaining clip on the plug in module for the fuel pump. The one I asked about above. I could have beat him over the head with a sledge, but it was an accident.
Anyone know how to repair such a mess? Is it safe to order a new harness and clip off the broken module and splice in a new one? Right now I have a long zip tie going around the two black hoses making a semi retaining strap over the module to keep it from coming out.
Install document coming soon.
Eric
www.installuniversity.com
I would like to thank everyone for their help but especially Saturnstyl for his major contributions to the effort.
The install was straight foward and no problem to tackle what-so-ever.
My friend did break the retaining clip on the plug in module for the fuel pump. The one I asked about above. I could have beat him over the head with a sledge, but it was an accident.
Anyone know how to repair such a mess? Is it safe to order a new harness and clip off the broken module and splice in a new one? Right now I have a long zip tie going around the two black hoses making a semi retaining strap over the module to keep it from coming out.
Install document coming soon.
Eric
www.installuniversity.com
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Where exactly did he break the connector at? Is it:
A) from the cars harness to the top of the drivers side sending unit
B) at the wiring harness that runs from the left sending unit to the right sending unit.
If zip ties are holding and working I wouldn't screw with it. In case of line A, you would need a body harness which is mega bucks....
In case of B, you could just cut and solder from the old unit to the new unit.
There is also worst case scenario, which is use some clear silicone or superglue, depending on whether or not you think you will EVER have to do this again. Remove the weather seal, apply glue, reinstall weather seal, then apply glue to the weather seal on the outside, and install connector. Let dry and test for holding power.
Also if you still have the part he broke off, you can simply superglue that back on to the connector, and it will hold also. I don't mean glue it where it broke off. Put it on like it wasn't broken and glue it in place.
A) from the cars harness to the top of the drivers side sending unit
B) at the wiring harness that runs from the left sending unit to the right sending unit.
If zip ties are holding and working I wouldn't screw with it. In case of line A, you would need a body harness which is mega bucks....
In case of B, you could just cut and solder from the old unit to the new unit.
There is also worst case scenario, which is use some clear silicone or superglue, depending on whether or not you think you will EVER have to do this again. Remove the weather seal, apply glue, reinstall weather seal, then apply glue to the weather seal on the outside, and install connector. Let dry and test for holding power.
Also if you still have the part he broke off, you can simply superglue that back on to the connector, and it will hold also. I don't mean glue it where it broke off. Put it on like it wasn't broken and glue it in place.
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Ford Pinto
It is choice A. I should have took a picture of my cheap fix, basically, the zip ties just help prevent the module from coming up but if you pull with your hand on the module, it will still raise up with help. I may just say screw it and check it in a 1,000 miles.
How hard is it to replace the entire harness running from the top of the driver side sending unit to where ever?
Eric
How hard is it to replace the entire harness running from the top of the driver side sending unit to where ever?
Eric
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Ford Pinto
Just wanted to let everyone know the install document is 99.99% complete.
I encourage everyone to check it out.
Thanks again everyone.
Eric
www.installuniversity.com
I encourage everyone to check it out.
Thanks again everyone.
Eric
www.installuniversity.com
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Originally Posted by wizkid
It is choice A. I should have took a picture of my cheap fix, basically, the zip ties just help prevent the module from coming up but if you pull with your hand on the module, it will still raise up with help. I may just say screw it and check it in a 1,000 miles.
How hard is it to replace the entire harness running from the top of the driver side sending unit to where ever?
Eric
How hard is it to replace the entire harness running from the top of the driver side sending unit to where ever?
Eric
-s-
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From: California
Obsidian Black C43, Silver C43, Silver Carlsson E-class wagon, Brabus G-class
Replacing Fuel Level Sending Unit: 2002 C240
Do you know if the location of the sending units are the same on the W202, specifically C43?
Many thanks.
Many thanks.
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From: Australia
Originally Posted by saturnstyl
They are underneath. You have to drain the fuel tank on a 202 or 208 chassis to replace the units. I strongly recommend a dealer perform this one, its not a simple do it yourselfer.
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209 should be the same as a 203. Haven't done one, but they are mechanically almost identical. I don't believe you would even have to change the fuel senders. If there was a difference it could probably be version coded.
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From: Australia
Originally Posted by saturnstyl
209 should be the same as a 203. Haven't done one, but they are mechanically almost identical. I don't believe you would even have to change the fuel senders. If there was a difference it could probably be version coded.
There is a small problem of the W209 IC having a nonsense code that makes the fuel level go up and down like a yo-yo on the display.
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From: global traveller
some slow@$$diesels
Originally Posted by miroj
WheThere is a small problem of the W209 IC having a nonsense code that makes the fuel level go up and down like a yo-yo on the display.
greetingz,
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So complicated!
I had a 1979 240D with a bad sender and it was not only easy to remove I was able to repair it instead of having to replace it.
This is progress..?
I had a 1979 240D with a bad sender and it was not only easy to remove I was able to repair it instead of having to replace it.
This is progress..?
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