P06DA00 Code, M276 Engine, Need Clarification
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 3,496
From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
I have one of each LAUNCH scanner because (1) I got the original version before V2 was released, and (2) I have two cars.
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
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Likes: 6,330
Well, unless they have more than one Mercedes, I would put the money toward getting XENTRY through @BenzNinja because it will be more valuable to have a good copy of XENTRY and the diagnostic support from Peter.
I have one of each LAUNCH scanner because (1) I got the original version before V2 was released, and (2) I have two cars.
I have one of each LAUNCH scanner because (1) I got the original version before V2 was released, and (2) I have two cars.
Otherwise do agree with investing in better solutions than a Launch 1.0
Last edited by W205C43PFL; Oct 27, 2024 at 01:34 PM. Reason: Correction: name
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Junior Member
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FL W205 C63
M177 CEL P06DA00
Checking in to share my experience. I've read nearly every single thread and watched Tasos' videos.
My car is a 2020 w205 c63 (48k miles), has been tuned for 1k miles now, most refer to it as "stage 3" (hybrid turbos, intakes, dps, stock fuel system, custom ECU tune). About 200 miles ago, I got 1 single CEL: P06DA00. I have not unplugged any sensor. It seems that on "newer" cars like mine, the CEL will pop up. Unlike the older cars, the CEL is hidden and will not illuminate for this specific code. Indy shop diagnosed it as oil pump actuator valve wiring fault. Recommended ~$2k repair. Ouch.
The symptom is definitely there: car warms up a lot quicker. But temperature is steady, and the car has not "grenaded" despite going above 3500 RPMs. There has been no noticeable decrease in performance and the tune seems to be holding up just fine. I certainly don't think the tune is at fault.
This is my understanding: for emissions purposes, the valve functions to lower oil pressure during low engine speed (idling, cold starts, etc.). Hence a "2 stage" oil pump. If the valve is inoperative, the oil pressure is constant and not "reduced" due to engine speed.
I will follow up with my tuner to see what the best course of action will be. This is what I'm thinking: unplug the solenoid, cover the connection, and simply code out this specific CEL with a new tune file.
My car is a 2020 w205 c63 (48k miles), has been tuned for 1k miles now, most refer to it as "stage 3" (hybrid turbos, intakes, dps, stock fuel system, custom ECU tune). About 200 miles ago, I got 1 single CEL: P06DA00. I have not unplugged any sensor. It seems that on "newer" cars like mine, the CEL will pop up. Unlike the older cars, the CEL is hidden and will not illuminate for this specific code. Indy shop diagnosed it as oil pump actuator valve wiring fault. Recommended ~$2k repair. Ouch.
The symptom is definitely there: car warms up a lot quicker. But temperature is steady, and the car has not "grenaded" despite going above 3500 RPMs. There has been no noticeable decrease in performance and the tune seems to be holding up just fine. I certainly don't think the tune is at fault.
This is my understanding: for emissions purposes, the valve functions to lower oil pressure during low engine speed (idling, cold starts, etc.). Hence a "2 stage" oil pump. If the valve is inoperative, the oil pressure is constant and not "reduced" due to engine speed.
I will follow up with my tuner to see what the best course of action will be. This is what I'm thinking: unplug the solenoid, cover the connection, and simply code out this specific CEL with a new tune file.
Last edited by zambuzan; Nov 6, 2024 at 04:17 PM. Reason: more info
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,390
Likes: 6,330
Checking in to share my experience. I've read nearly every single thread and watched Tasos' videos.
My car is a 2020 w205 c63 (48k miles), has been tuned for 1k miles now, most refer to it as "stage 3" (hybrid turbos, intakes, dps, stock fuel system, custom ECU tune). About 200 miles ago, I got 1 single CEL: P06DA00. I have not unplugged any sensor. It seems that on "newer" cars like mine, the CEL will pop up. Unlike the older cars, the CEL is hidden and will not illuminate for this specific code. Indy shop diagnosed it as oil pump actuator valve wiring fault. Recommended ~$2k repair. Ouch.
The symptom is definitely there: car warms up a lot quicker. But temperature is steady, and the car has not "grenaded" despite going above 3500 RPMs. There has been no noticeable decrease in performance and the tune seems to be holding up just fine. I certainly don't think the tune is at fault.
This is my understanding: for emissions purposes, the valve functions to lower oil pressure during low engine speed (idling, cold starts, etc.). Hence a "2 stage" oil pump. If the valve is inoperative, the oil pressure is constant and not "reduced" due to engine speed.
I will follow up with my tuner to see what the best course of action will be. This is what I'm thinking: unplug the solenoid, cover the connection, and simply code out this specific CEL with a new tune file.
My car is a 2020 w205 c63 (48k miles), has been tuned for 1k miles now, most refer to it as "stage 3" (hybrid turbos, intakes, dps, stock fuel system, custom ECU tune). About 200 miles ago, I got 1 single CEL: P06DA00. I have not unplugged any sensor. It seems that on "newer" cars like mine, the CEL will pop up. Unlike the older cars, the CEL is hidden and will not illuminate for this specific code. Indy shop diagnosed it as oil pump actuator valve wiring fault. Recommended ~$2k repair. Ouch.
The symptom is definitely there: car warms up a lot quicker. But temperature is steady, and the car has not "grenaded" despite going above 3500 RPMs. There has been no noticeable decrease in performance and the tune seems to be holding up just fine. I certainly don't think the tune is at fault.
This is my understanding: for emissions purposes, the valve functions to lower oil pressure during low engine speed (idling, cold starts, etc.). Hence a "2 stage" oil pump. If the valve is inoperative, the oil pressure is constant and not "reduced" due to engine speed.
I will follow up with my tuner to see what the best course of action will be. This is what I'm thinking: unplug the solenoid, cover the connection, and simply code out this specific CEL with a new tune file.
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: US
2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
With a working actuator, the ECU is able to keep the oil pressure constant until @3500RPM, and once that RPM is reached the ECU let the oil pressure climb until the maximum allowed pressure for the pump (relief valve)
With a not-working actuator (either because it is disconnected, a wiring fault or luckily stuck in the inactive position), the ECU is unable to keep the oil pressure at the desired low (but correct) pressure value, and the pump can actually increase pressure from minimum (idle) all the way to the maximum as the engine is reving up.
The important part is to find out if your oil pump is working as described above, and that can only be done with a pressure gauge and monitor the pressure gauge as you rev the engine. If the pressure is NOT going up. STOP the engine and do not run it until FIXED.
NOTE: my E350 has been unplugged for @5K+ miles already. Absolutely no issues, but an improved ride overall.
Last edited by JCM_MB; Nov 6, 2024 at 04:24 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 26
Likes: 12
FL W205 C63
Recommend manually checking oil pressure first before unplugging and/or connecting a dummy solenoid. Just in case the solenoid is stuck closed when it failed. If that is the case yes do get the solenoid repaired. Otherwise, yes unplug the solenoid and connect a dummy externally and enjoy the benefits of normal oil pressure all the time instead of only at high rpms.
I don't think the solenoid has failed, given the relatively low mileage and consistent oil changes. And I would've already grenaded the engine if that was the case. Been driving with the CEL for 200+ miles now, high RPMs too. I got an oil change just yesterday, all looked good.
I did order a dummy solenoid but my tuner said he can just code out the CEL via a new tuning file.
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 26
Likes: 12
FL W205 C63
Close, but incomplete understanding.
With a working actuator, the ECU is able to keep the oil pressure constant until @3500RPM, and once that RPM is reached the ECU let the oil pressure climb until the maximum allowed pressure for the pump (relief valve)
With a not-working actuator (either because it is disconnected, a wiring fault or luckily stuck in the inactive position), the ECU is unable to keep the oil pressure at the desired low (but correct) pressure value, and the pump can actually increase pressure from minimum (idle) all the way to the maximum as the engine is reving up.
The important part is to find out if your oil pump is working as described above, and that can only be done with a pressure gauge and monitor the pressure gauge as you rev the engine. If the pressure is NOT going up. STOP the engine and do not run it until FIXED.
NOTE: my E350 has been unplugged for @5K+ miles already. Absolutely no issues, but an improved ride overall.
With a working actuator, the ECU is able to keep the oil pressure constant until @3500RPM, and once that RPM is reached the ECU let the oil pressure climb until the maximum allowed pressure for the pump (relief valve)
With a not-working actuator (either because it is disconnected, a wiring fault or luckily stuck in the inactive position), the ECU is unable to keep the oil pressure at the desired low (but correct) pressure value, and the pump can actually increase pressure from minimum (idle) all the way to the maximum as the engine is reving up.
The important part is to find out if your oil pump is working as described above, and that can only be done with a pressure gauge and monitor the pressure gauge as you rev the engine. If the pressure is NOT going up. STOP the engine and do not run it until FIXED.
NOTE: my E350 has been unplugged for @5K+ miles already. Absolutely no issues, but an improved ride overall.
Like I said, been driving like this for 200+ miles, high RPMs too. Engine hasn't blown up yet. It's likely that the oil pump itself is working as it should.
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,390
Likes: 6,330
Close, but incomplete understanding.
With a working actuator, the ECU is able to keep the oil pressure constant until @3500RPM, and once that RPM is reached the ECU let the oil pressure climb until the maximum allowed pressure for the pump (relief valve)
With a not-working actuator (either because it is disconnected, a wiring fault or luckily stuck in the inactive position), the ECU is unable to keep the oil pressure at the desired low (but correct) pressure value, and the pump can actually increase pressure from minimum (idle) all the way to the maximum as the engine is reving up.
The important part is to find out if your oil pump is working as described above, and that can only be done with a pressure gauge and monitor the pressure gauge as you rev the engine. If the pressure is NOT going up. STOP the engine and do not run it until FIXED.
NOTE: my E350 has been unplugged for @5K+ miles already. Absolutely no issues, but an improved ride overall.
With a working actuator, the ECU is able to keep the oil pressure constant until @3500RPM, and once that RPM is reached the ECU let the oil pressure climb until the maximum allowed pressure for the pump (relief valve)
With a not-working actuator (either because it is disconnected, a wiring fault or luckily stuck in the inactive position), the ECU is unable to keep the oil pressure at the desired low (but correct) pressure value, and the pump can actually increase pressure from minimum (idle) all the way to the maximum as the engine is reving up.
The important part is to find out if your oil pump is working as described above, and that can only be done with a pressure gauge and monitor the pressure gauge as you rev the engine. If the pressure is NOT going up. STOP the engine and do not run it until FIXED.
NOTE: my E350 has been unplugged for @5K+ miles already. Absolutely no issues, but an improved ride overall.
I agree, will have to manually check oil pressure. I think there is a port on the plastic oil filter. Thanks.
I don't think the solenoid has failed, given the relatively low mileage and consistent oil changes. And I would've already grenaded the engine if that was the case. Been driving with the CEL for 200+ miles now, high RPMs too. I got an oil change just yesterday, all looked good.
I did order a dummy solenoid but my tuner said he can just code out the CEL via a new tuning file.
I don't think the solenoid has failed, given the relatively low mileage and consistent oil changes. And I would've already grenaded the engine if that was the case. Been driving with the CEL for 200+ miles now, high RPMs too. I got an oil change just yesterday, all looked good.
I did order a dummy solenoid but my tuner said he can just code out the CEL via a new tuning file.
Thanks for the comment. I will definitely manually check oil pressure. I think there is a port on the plastic oil filter. Thanks.
Like I said, been driving like this for 200+ miles, high RPMs too. Engine hasn't blown up yet. It's likely that the oil pump itself is working as it should.
Like I said, been driving like this for 200+ miles, high RPMs too. Engine hasn't blown up yet. It's likely that the oil pump itself is working as it should.
Sounds good! Forum member JettaRed shows which pressure gauge was used and how he checks the pressure: https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ml#post8961010
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,964
Likes: 6,806
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
THERMAL DISCONNECTION....
Thanks for the comment. I will definitely manually check oil pressure. I think there is a port on the plastic oil filter. Thanks.
Like I said, been driving like this for 200+ miles, high RPMs too. Engine hasn't blown up yet. It's likely that the oil pump itself is working as it should.
Like I said, been driving like this for 200+ miles, high RPMs too. Engine hasn't blown up yet. It's likely that the oil pump itself is working as it should.
Is it to prevent further heat damage or rope customers in for service?
"Oil warming up faster" in this context is a sign of better piston heat removal. This limits extreme heatsoaks. Better oil viscosity prevents it.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Nov 6, 2024 at 04:41 PM.
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,390
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the epidemic of failing pump solenoid on hot engines now with CEL, make it likely there's an inline 10¢ thermal fuse that stops the dual rate operation.
Is it to prevent further heat damage or rope customers in for service?
"Oil warming up faster" in this context is a sign of better piston heat removal.
Is it to prevent further heat damage or rope customers in for service?
"Oil warming up faster" in this context is a sign of better piston heat removal.
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,390
Likes: 6,330
Thankfully forum member zambuzan have a 2020 C 63 so RWD so will be easier. That said, hopefully the manual test shows pressure is great and just a failed solenoid, if so unplug, plug a dummy solenoid and enjoy the benefits 
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 3,496
From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Thanks for the comment. I will definitely manually check oil pressure. I think there is a port on the plastic oil filter. Thanks.
Like I said, been driving like this for 200+ miles, high RPMs too. Engine hasn't blown up yet. It's likely that the oil pump itself is working as it should.
Like I said, been driving like this for 200+ miles, high RPMs too. Engine hasn't blown up yet. It's likely that the oil pump itself is working as it should.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 26
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FL W205 C63
Thank you for posting this. And yikes! I hope there is enough space behind the front coolers. They sit right in front of the engine. Definitely won't be attempting this method by myself. Will reach out to my indy shop again.
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 3,496
From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Checking in to share my experience. I've read nearly every single thread and watched Tasos' videos.
My car is a 2020 w205 c63 (48k miles), has been tuned for 1k miles now, most refer to it as "stage 3" (hybrid turbos, intakes, dps, stock fuel system, custom ECU tune). About 200 miles ago, I got 1 single CEL: P06DA00. I have not unplugged any sensor. It seems that on "newer" cars like mine, the CEL will pop up. Unlike the older cars, the CEL is hidden and will not illuminate for this specific code. Indy shop diagnosed it as oil pump actuator valve wiring fault. Recommended ~$2k repair. Ouch.
The symptom is definitely there: car warms up a lot quicker. But temperature is steady, and the car has not "grenaded" despite going above 3500 RPMs. There has been no noticeable decrease in performance and the tune seems to be holding up just fine. I certainly don't think the tune is at fault.
This is my understanding: for emissions purposes, the valve functions to lower oil pressure during low engine speed (idling, cold starts, etc.). Hence a "2 stage" oil pump. If the valve is inoperative, the oil pressure is constant and not "reduced" due to engine speed.
I will follow up with my tuner to see what the best course of action will be. This is what I'm thinking: unplug the solenoid, cover the connection, and simply code out this specific CEL with a new tune file.
My car is a 2020 w205 c63 (48k miles), has been tuned for 1k miles now, most refer to it as "stage 3" (hybrid turbos, intakes, dps, stock fuel system, custom ECU tune). About 200 miles ago, I got 1 single CEL: P06DA00. I have not unplugged any sensor. It seems that on "newer" cars like mine, the CEL will pop up. Unlike the older cars, the CEL is hidden and will not illuminate for this specific code. Indy shop diagnosed it as oil pump actuator valve wiring fault. Recommended ~$2k repair. Ouch.
The symptom is definitely there: car warms up a lot quicker. But temperature is steady, and the car has not "grenaded" despite going above 3500 RPMs. There has been no noticeable decrease in performance and the tune seems to be holding up just fine. I certainly don't think the tune is at fault.
This is my understanding: for emissions purposes, the valve functions to lower oil pressure during low engine speed (idling, cold starts, etc.). Hence a "2 stage" oil pump. If the valve is inoperative, the oil pressure is constant and not "reduced" due to engine speed.
I will follow up with my tuner to see what the best course of action will be. This is what I'm thinking: unplug the solenoid, cover the connection, and simply code out this specific CEL with a new tune file.
Secondly, the solenoid does not reduce oil pressure but limits it to approximately 2 bar below 3500 rpm and allows maximum pressure at about 4 to 4.5 bar above 3500 rpm. 3500 rpm is way above normal cruising rpm. So, when cruising, your engine is operating with limited oil pressure. With the solenoid disabled, oil pressure rises based on engine speed.
Lastly, it is unlikely that your tuner can "code out" the DTC. If they can, let us know. I have asked my tuner and other programmers, and none seem interested in trying it.
Last edited by JettaRed; Nov 6, 2024 at 08:41 PM.
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From: Charlotte, NC
Had: 1987 300TD, Had: 2004 C230 Sport Sedan, Have: 2014 E350 Sport, Have: 2019 S450
A couple of your statements are not exactly correct. First, the 2-stage oil pump is primarily to reduce energy requirements to power the oil pump below certain rpm. In return, the consequence is reduced (theoretically) fuel usage. In practice, the fuel "savings" are negligible. A secondary consequence of using less fuel is to reduce emissions. Again, probably negligible...
This is the clearest picture I've seen which shows the location of the oil pump solenoid connector:
Last edited by dmatre; Nov 7, 2024 at 07:17 AM. Reason: Additional info
Newbie
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MB 2017 A-Class 200
Thanks for the reply. . No test just a fear. I am a total newbie here and not technical, but thankful for the knowledge!!
My car is 2017 C300 (M274) with 55,000 miles. Shop is quoting 4K USD.
I see an earlier post from CaliBenzDriver "During engine startup the ECU triggers normal pressure to help refill the hydraulic tensioners and drained VVT gears." so appears disconnecting the solenoid does just stop the oil pressure starvation. Going to try.
Other code is P012800 coolant below spec which could be what lit the CEL (although it is historical). Seems this could be ECT sensor or thermostat.
My car is 2017 C300 (M274) with 55,000 miles. Shop is quoting 4K USD.
I see an earlier post from CaliBenzDriver "During engine startup the ECU triggers normal pressure to help refill the hydraulic tensioners and drained VVT gears." so appears disconnecting the solenoid does just stop the oil pressure starvation. Going to try.
Other code is P012800 coolant below spec which could be what lit the CEL (although it is historical). Seems this could be ECT sensor or thermostat.
1) P06DA00 (stored) The actuation of the valve of the oil pump in the combustion engine has an electrical fault or open circuit. There is an open circuit.
2) P012800 (Stored) The coolant temperature is below the coolant thermostat specified temperature.
Can you give us an update on whether / how you fixed yours?
Newbie
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MB 2017 A-Class 200
Attached here is a different TBS for the M270 and M274. If I understand correctly, it says if the vehicle was built prior to May 2017, then the ECU needs to be reprogrammed and that might fix the P012800 error code? My a Class 200 was built in 2016 - how do I reprogram the ECU?
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 19
Likes: 2
From: Norway
2015 W205 S205
Thank guys!
W205 C180 2015 M274
checked my car with OBD and got this fault code (Current), but with no CEL.
Dont know when this came up, because it was not there before.
Was starting to get nervous for the price and the job fixing this problem.. thankfully i found this and among other threads, that makes me sleep well tonight.
I really enjoy the car and planning to keep it.
There is no CEL and the code is current, and im not going to do anything with this.
again, THANKS to all the people for the time sharing this information.
checked my car with OBD and got this fault code (Current), but with no CEL.
Dont know when this came up, because it was not there before.
Was starting to get nervous for the price and the job fixing this problem.. thankfully i found this and among other threads, that makes me sleep well tonight.
I really enjoy the car and planning to keep it.
There is no CEL and the code is current, and im not going to do anything with this.
again, THANKS to all the people for the time sharing this information.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,964
Likes: 6,806
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
No-drama insurance...
W205 C180 2015 M274
checked my car with OBD and got this fault code (Current), but with no CEL.
Dont know when this came up, because it was not there before.
Was starting to get nervous for the price and the job fixing this problem.. thankfully i found this and among other threads, that makes me sleep well tonight.
I really enjoy the car and planning to keep it.
There is no CEL and the code is current, and im not going to do anything with this.
again, THANKS to all the people for the time sharing this information.
checked my car with OBD and got this fault code (Current), but with no CEL.
Dont know when this came up, because it was not there before.
Was starting to get nervous for the price and the job fixing this problem.. thankfully i found this and among other threads, that makes me sleep well tonight.
I really enjoy the car and planning to keep it.
There is no CEL and the code is current, and im not going to do anything with this.
again, THANKS to all the people for the time sharing this information.
This failure is a sort of natural improvement: CONGRATS!!
If you really want to sleep well tonight AND the following nights:
disconnect the harness so failed solenoid has NO WAY TO BLOW UP your engine by jamming half way with accumulated piston shavings.
It's not super-likely but you don't want to chance it either.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 28, 2025 at 09:47 PM.
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 3,496
From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
W205 C180 2015 M274
checked my car with OBD and got this fault code (Current), but with no CEL.
Dont know when this came up, because it was not there before.
There is no CEL and the code is current, and im not going to do anything with this.
again, THANKS to all the people for the time sharing this information.
checked my car with OBD and got this fault code (Current), but with no CEL.
Dont know when this came up, because it was not there before.
There is no CEL and the code is current, and im not going to do anything with this.
again, THANKS to all the people for the time sharing this information.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 19
Likes: 2
From: Norway
2015 W205 S205
Trying to find out how to do this?
could you please send me a link or some pictures for this type of engine/location?
and how likely is it to happen?
could you please send me a link or some pictures for this type of engine/location?
and how likely is it to happen?
You now understand that this "lucky fault" is a preview for experimental MOD-1.
This failure is a sort of natural improvement: CONGRATS!!
If you really want to sleep well tonight AND the following nights:
disconnect the harness so failed solenoid has NO WAY TO BLOW UP your engine by jamming half way with accumulated piston shavings.
It's not super-likely but you don't want to chance it either.
This failure is a sort of natural improvement: CONGRATS!!
If you really want to sleep well tonight AND the following nights:
disconnect the harness so failed solenoid has NO WAY TO BLOW UP your engine by jamming half way with accumulated piston shavings.
It's not super-likely but you don't want to chance it either.
Last edited by Johnnyb3good; Jan 29, 2025 at 04:54 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 19
Likes: 2
From: Norway
2015 W205 S205
So where i live they may sometime test emissions, but not always..
