HELP! P01685 AFTER bank 1 intake VVT CHANGE M276 3.0L BITURBO V6
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 1
From: DFW, Texas
2015 ML400, 2012 CLS550
HELP! P01685 AFTER bank 1 intake VVT CHANGE M276 3.0L BITURBO V6
THIS IS A SECOND/SAME POST; i ORIGINALLY POSTED IN M 166 FORUM BUT I THOUGHT IT MAY GET MORE TRACTION HERE AS ITS MORE ENGINE/ TECH CENTRIC. ADMIN PLEASE REMOVE ETC IF NOT ALLOWED
Hello all, hope you are doing better than me at this time! I have been messing with my wife's 2015 ML400 rattle at startup. I changed the bank 1 intake vvt phaser etc and then code P01685 camshaft to crank implausible code popped up and I've been trying to remedy that for a month or so... Finally, I'm swallowing my pride and asking for help/ suggestions. I have opened, inspected, measured cams etc at least 6 times now, on the bright side, I can tear it down to the cams in about 1.5hours so there's that!
I have tried to research as much as I can on here before posting. I saw threads on trying to move hall wheel a few mms, didn't work for me. My hall wheel was perfectly lined up before me forcing it; no worries, have a new mb cam on the bench for install.
My main question is, Is there something I'm missing with reinstall? I have r/r phaser probably 4x now, chain tensioner out, mark links, lock down cams, reinstall, everything is lined up, button in all back up. On restart it is slow to start, like 2-3 seconds then fires off. When running it revs fine etc but throws code instantly. scanner says advance on intake cam ordered 35 degrees, actual 42. I have swapped solenoids, cam sensors between bank 2( US driver side) and it doesn't care still only p01685 on b1/Intake. Does vvt phaser need to be preloaded somehow before torquing the "valve control bolt" (also new installed) or something and if so, how? Does it need to be programmed with scanner? I'm beyond frustrated at this point. I do have another phaser and new cam to install hoping my last phaser was defective but I wanted some expert opinions before I just keep throwing parts and time at this thing and not actually fixing anything.
Also, when looking at engine, valve covers off, intake cam is centerline of engine, talking about bank 1 (US passenger side) is advanced clockwise?
this should apply to m276/m278 engines along with most other mbs as I've read its common across most engines with vvt. I do not want to bash or complain about mb engines, looking for help; when they run I love them...
Thanks for any help/ suggestions
Tim
Hello all, hope you are doing better than me at this time! I have been messing with my wife's 2015 ML400 rattle at startup. I changed the bank 1 intake vvt phaser etc and then code P01685 camshaft to crank implausible code popped up and I've been trying to remedy that for a month or so... Finally, I'm swallowing my pride and asking for help/ suggestions. I have opened, inspected, measured cams etc at least 6 times now, on the bright side, I can tear it down to the cams in about 1.5hours so there's that!
I have tried to research as much as I can on here before posting. I saw threads on trying to move hall wheel a few mms, didn't work for me. My hall wheel was perfectly lined up before me forcing it; no worries, have a new mb cam on the bench for install.
My main question is, Is there something I'm missing with reinstall? I have r/r phaser probably 4x now, chain tensioner out, mark links, lock down cams, reinstall, everything is lined up, button in all back up. On restart it is slow to start, like 2-3 seconds then fires off. When running it revs fine etc but throws code instantly. scanner says advance on intake cam ordered 35 degrees, actual 42. I have swapped solenoids, cam sensors between bank 2( US driver side) and it doesn't care still only p01685 on b1/Intake. Does vvt phaser need to be preloaded somehow before torquing the "valve control bolt" (also new installed) or something and if so, how? Does it need to be programmed with scanner? I'm beyond frustrated at this point. I do have another phaser and new cam to install hoping my last phaser was defective but I wanted some expert opinions before I just keep throwing parts and time at this thing and not actually fixing anything.
Also, when looking at engine, valve covers off, intake cam is centerline of engine, talking about bank 1 (US passenger side) is advanced clockwise?
this should apply to m276/m278 engines along with most other mbs as I've read its common across most engines with vvt. I do not want to bash or complain about mb engines, looking for help; when they run I love them...
Thanks for any help/ suggestions
Tim
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 2,042
From: US
2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
Since you have it already completely open, perhaps worth thinking about spot welding the aligned tone/reluctor wheel, and replacing the chain tensioners. If your fuel rail has been open, be certain no debris/dirt has made it in.
Once you get it sorted out, read the modification to the oil pump solenoid discussed to dead in the W212 AMG forum, and partially in this one.
Once you get it sorted out, read the modification to the oil pump solenoid discussed to dead in the W212 AMG forum, and partially in this one.
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 3,496
From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Oh, man! I'd be divorced by now. How's sleeping in the doghouse? Doesn't matter if you were trying to do the right thing. You touched her car.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 6,797
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
This cam timing DTC from the loose sensor wheel is caused by a major engineered camshaft defect.
Imagine if the crank assembly gear was loose, the ECU wouldn't know when to fire due to tick marks being late.
When you inspect the reluctor timing marks trust the exhaust camshaft wheel position because exhaust does not hammer the wheel loose.
So align the crank, and the 2x exhaust camshafts then mark what needs to be shifted.
Smile because you are saving the cost of 2x camshafts artificially gone bad with poor assembly.
Imagine if the crank assembly gear was loose, the ECU wouldn't know when to fire due to tick marks being late.
When you inspect the reluctor timing marks trust the exhaust camshaft wheel position because exhaust does not hammer the wheel loose.
So align the crank, and the 2x exhaust camshafts then mark what needs to be shifted.
Smile because you are saving the cost of 2x camshafts artificially gone bad with poor assembly.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 17, 2024 at 03:01 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 1
From: DFW, Texas
2015 ML400, 2012 CLS550
Jettared,
Nah, she's been driving my cls550 or miata so she's fine. We picked up the ml400 after she got a deer in her gle350.. no doghouse for me, everyday is like Christmas around here!lol
Nah, she's been driving my cls550 or miata so she's fine. We picked up the ml400 after she got a deer in her gle350.. no doghouse for me, everyday is like Christmas around here!lol
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 1
From: DFW, Texas
2015 ML400, 2012 CLS550
UPDATE
I have finally finished and got it all buttoned up and optested. apparently my intake was like one tooth off. Thank you all for suggestions. I used the cam timing pdf best I could to "eyeball" laser marks. after I was sure I was gtg, i reopened valve cover and made some rudimentary measurements but I think they may make it a little easier for future wrenchers. I edited Juan's pdf to visually show what I'm about to say.
Pretty much the center of the 2 laser etched lines on the compensators are ABOUT .950" from the head if you were to place a level from the line to the head, see pic as that doesn't make sense to me either! lol And from center of etch to center of other etch on compensators measured with flexible rule(I used a feeler gauge I marked then measured the distance, a piece of paper would work as well) should be ABOUT 6.5". These are as good as I could quickly measure but frankly, if you're a tooth off it will be very evident with the measurements, not so much by eye. Measurements at 40* ATDC as per pdf. ALL MEASUREMENTS MADE ON THE ACTUAL COMPENSATORS, NOT CHAIN, AND FROM CENTER OF THE DOUBLE ETCH MARKS.
Also, measurements performed on M276 engine but the 3.0 BiTurbo; It shouldn't matter but I did notice my hall sensors do not line up like the literature and don't know if there are any other differences.
I can say, This worked on mine and it starts, runs and drives great with no codes and cam positions are spot on to what is ordered vs actual according to scanner.
again, thanks for all the help and hopefully this may help someone in the future.
Tim
Pretty much the center of the 2 laser etched lines on the compensators are ABOUT .950" from the head if you were to place a level from the line to the head, see pic as that doesn't make sense to me either! lol And from center of etch to center of other etch on compensators measured with flexible rule(I used a feeler gauge I marked then measured the distance, a piece of paper would work as well) should be ABOUT 6.5". These are as good as I could quickly measure but frankly, if you're a tooth off it will be very evident with the measurements, not so much by eye. Measurements at 40* ATDC as per pdf. ALL MEASUREMENTS MADE ON THE ACTUAL COMPENSATORS, NOT CHAIN, AND FROM CENTER OF THE DOUBLE ETCH MARKS.
Also, measurements performed on M276 engine but the 3.0 BiTurbo; It shouldn't matter but I did notice my hall sensors do not line up like the literature and don't know if there are any other differences.
I can say, This worked on mine and it starts, runs and drives great with no codes and cam positions are spot on to what is ordered vs actual according to scanner.
again, thanks for all the help and hopefully this may help someone in the future.
Tim
Last edited by hem1tp; Feb 22, 2024 at 03:00 PM. Reason: CLARIFICATION
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 2,042
From: US
2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
I have finally finished and got it all buttoned up and optested. apparently my intake was like one tooth off. Thank you all for suggestions. I used the cam timing pdf best I could to "eyeball" laser marks. after I was sure I was gtg, i reopened valve cover and made some rudimentary measurements but I think they may make it a little easier for future wrenchers. I edited Juan's pdf to visually show what I'm about to say.
Pretty much the center of the 2 laser etched lines on the compensators are ABOUT .950" from the head if you were to place a level from the line to the head, see pic as that doesn't make sense to me either! lol And from center of etch to center of other etch on compensators measured with flexible rule(I used a feeler gauge I marked then measured the distance, a piece of paper would work as well) should be ABOUT 6.5". These are as good as I could quickly measure but frankly, if you're a tooth off it will be very evident with the measurements, not so much by eye. Measurements at 40* ATDC as per pdf. ALL MEASUREMENTS MADE ON THE ACTUAL COMPENSATORS, NOT CHAIN, AND FROM CENTER OF THE DOUBLE ETCH MARKS.
Also, measurements performed on M276 engine but the 3.0 BiTurbo; It shouldn't matter but I did notice my hall sensors do not line up like the literature and don't know if there are any other differences.
I can say, This worked on mine and it starts, runs and drives great with no codes and cam positions are spot on to what is ordered vs actual according to scanner.
again, thanks for all the help and hopefully this may help someone in the future.
Tim
Pretty much the center of the 2 laser etched lines on the compensators are ABOUT .950" from the head if you were to place a level from the line to the head, see pic as that doesn't make sense to me either! lol And from center of etch to center of other etch on compensators measured with flexible rule(I used a feeler gauge I marked then measured the distance, a piece of paper would work as well) should be ABOUT 6.5". These are as good as I could quickly measure but frankly, if you're a tooth off it will be very evident with the measurements, not so much by eye. Measurements at 40* ATDC as per pdf. ALL MEASUREMENTS MADE ON THE ACTUAL COMPENSATORS, NOT CHAIN, AND FROM CENTER OF THE DOUBLE ETCH MARKS.
Also, measurements performed on M276 engine but the 3.0 BiTurbo; It shouldn't matter but I did notice my hall sensors do not line up like the literature and don't know if there are any other differences.
I can say, This worked on mine and it starts, runs and drives great with no codes and cam positions are spot on to what is ordered vs actual according to scanner.
again, thanks for all the help and hopefully this may help someone in the future.
Tim
very happy to hear the car is back on the road w/o any issues and no parts required. Enjoy it 
