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The prior owner gave me two large folders with "presumably" all invoices for the maintenance and modification work that was carried out. The kilometers and dates of the various invoices show that the kilometers on the odometer are correct.
However, the transmission's fill cap is still original, and there are no invoices for automated transmission maintenance. Because the Sprinter is 20 years old, I would like to change the transmission oil and filter.
At different forums, there is a wealth of useful information on how to resolve 722.6 transmission difficulties. Given that this is my first automatic transmission activity, I would like to receive some guidance from the "722.6 transmission gurus" on what to watch out for.
Furthermore, as the transmission is around 20 years old, I would like to know ahead of time what spares I should have on hand to complete the task correctly.
The 722.6 is straightforward compared to the 722.9. Drain and refill along with a new filter with the possibility of a drainable torque converter. Filled via the dipstick tube. The dipstick is 140 589 15 21. Any type of flushing would be with whatever equipment of choice. But I've only ever done drain / filter / refill along with a new gasket. The bolts are re-usable.
The transmission has “only” run +90K-km, but is nearly 20 years old and, according to my information, has never had an oil change. I do not want to be a smarty, but isn't it a bit too much to anticipate that everything will be fine for the next 60K km after an oil change?
Of course, I do not want to waste time or money on useless tasks. Maybe it's just wishful thinking, but when I look through the many 722.6 forums where "older" transmissions have (overdue) oil changes, there are typically some additional spare components involved.
I would like to use the method described below. But, I am eager to receive essential information to avoid mistakes, unneeded work, and costs.
Drain and clean the oil pan
Install the oil pan + new filter & oil top-up.
Drive about 200 km.
Add LIQUI MOLY Pro-Line Automatic Transmission Cleaner & run idle for 10 minutes.
Drain, clean the oil pan, and remove the valve body.
Check the electro cable & control unit for oil penetration.
Replace the conductor plate.
Check all solenoids
Assemble, and reinstall the valve body + new filter.
Install the oil pan & electro-plug bushing
Flush the transmission + oil top-up.
Make a test drive until the oil is at 80 C, check the oil level, and top-up if needed.
Given the Sprinter's age, should the valve body's 20-year-old O-rings and tiny filters be replaced as a preventive measure? How about the transmission torque converter and shift sleeves?
My Sprinter 616-based RV, ready for travel, weighs up to +5 tons. The transmission is a 722.681 - W5A380AT with a maximum torque of 380 Nm. If the shift solenoids are still brown-top, should I upgrade to blue-top ones?
Thanks, Jef
I think the above may be a bit overkill as the miles on the trans are quite low. You also don't mention any concern about operation - just time passed. At the same time, given the type of vehicle and load, some of the steps might be worth it upon inspection of the fluid and debris on the magnet. I ran the information provided through MB parts and fluids sources and those are attached. I used 905.613, but it looks like the range is 613-616? 722.681 = A280 per MB for a 905.613. I also used https://operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com to determine your trans fluid must meet spec 236.14.
I'm not much for additives and cleaners - so for me personally, I would skip that step. I would rather do multiple changes with spec fluid rather than additives. The torque converter, from the parts list, does show a drain plug. However, on one of my W211 transmissions it also showed a drain plug, but there wasn't one. Nothing wrong with the extra steps of removing conductor plate and solenoids to clean everything - and not sure I would replace conductor plate if operationally all is good. Again if the fluid looks good and minimal debris on magnet - I think trans is just in need of a fluid service. Good call to check the wiring and connector!
The blue brown solenoids has been mentioned and at one point I was going to do on my W203 C55 with 722.6 - but I believe it is more of a solution for shift quality than anything else. Since I think my trans shift fine and quick enough, plus it only has 20k imperial miles on it - I elected to keep the solenoids in place.
Hope this additional information helps! Good luck with your service.
Thank you very much for your prompt response and the extremely useful information.Yes, I did not mention any operational issues. I explain why.
Until roughly 2006, almost all recreational vehicles in Europe lacked a European COC (Certificate of Confirmation). It's more than a bit aggravating that a non-Belgian owner can travel anywhere in his camper. However, once the identical RV is imported into Belgium, it no longer passes Belgian criteria without an original COC. To obtain a COC, the camper must undergo a thorough and lengthy technical inspection. If no defects or nonconformity are discovered, the process of drawing up and receiving a new COC will take an additional month.
With transit license plates. I drove the RV from Germany to the technical examination. It is presently in storage until I get the new COC and can apply for a license plate.
Since my passenger cars have automatic transmissions, I am used to this way of driving. But like many campers, the Carthago, with a GVW of 6 tons, is somewhat under-powered with the Sprinter 2.7 diesel engine. Consequently, the drive-train occasionally produces a lot of noise to overwhelm the 6 tons. Furthermore, the RV is quite a bit larger than my present Hymer B654, so I was more concerned with safe driving during the +700km trip than listening to the transmission.
What I did noticed on this +700-kilometer trip:
When shifting from a lower gear, the transmission occasionally makes a too-loud humming/buzzing noise when accelerating (I believe from 1 to 2, in 2de gear).
One time the transmission did not want to interlock in any gear. Thinking that I was doing something wrong, which was possible, I turned the engine off and waited for 5 minutes. After restarting everything was fine.
Does this point to anything I should be concerned about?
When you want to read actual tranny oil temperature for this oldie 5 speed, make sure the gear is in selector D, otherwise it will show coolant temp.... I am using Xentry.
MB was savings small money by having Neutral switch and temperature sensor sharing data channel .... LOL
03-18-2024, 12:17 AM
